Climbs 62
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 158m a.s.l
Faces S

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Who needs euro limestone! Scottish conglomerate is where it's at! © mike71

Crag features

BIRDS NESTING 2019 Ravens now nesting left of Eldorado at west end of crag. Please avoid that route

South facing conglomerate crag that has come of age with plenty of great sport routes. Now more open due to recent felling and is a sun trap throughout the year.

GOING TO THE TOILET AT THE CRAG

Can climbers please be sensible and do their latrine somewhere away from the crag as some corners are not very pleasant and there is a build-up of toilet paper and faeces. Thanks

DOGS AT THE CRAG - Can owners please lift their dogs pooh as the narrow tracks leading to and around the routes are now being littered with dog pooh which isn't pleasant when you happen to stand on when in your rock shoes. 

Approach notes

Park beside forest entrance keeping vehicular access free. Please keep to main tracks being created by local worthies including the Old Man of Moy who can be seen occasionally with a spade when the conditions are right. Be careful as he can be a grumpy old sod!

PARKING SENSIBLY
There have been problems with cars blocking the gate which is in use by estate vehicles - PLEASE PARK ON THE VERGE TO AVOID CONFLICT WITH THE ESTATE. THANKS

Restricted Access

NESTING RESTRICTIONS CURRENTLY

Ravens now nesting at west end of the crag just left of Eldorado so please avoid that route until further notice. Thanks 23/03/2019

Please also note that Creag Ghlas at Gleann Mennie has a total ban due to large birds nesting on the crag.

Information on nesting birds will be put on the site and on this web page each year when nesting occurs so keep checking before going to the crag during the nesting period from early February till early June to get the latest information.

ALSO CHECK MCofS WEBSITE FOR MORE INFO
A popular sports crag with further routes being added all the time. There are trad routes if you are brave and boulders and bouldering walls about but be prepared for occasional popping holds.

Please avoid routes with tape on the lower bolts as they are still to be climbed after bolting by originators as the crag continues to be developed. Other sectors maybe being developed so please leave any insitu gear and ropes.

Who indeed needs Euro Limestone? What a great crag. Good pumpy conglomerate climbing with lovely views. Would be a 3* crag if you didn't have the thrum of traffic from the A835.
Giles Davis - 10/Aug/17
Who indeed needs Euro Limestone? What a great crag. Good punpy conglomerate climbing with lovely views. Would be a 3* crag if you didn't have the thrum of traffic from the A835.
Giles Davis - 10/Aug/17
Crux of The Seer is now much easier due to a 'new' hold appearing. 7a+?
Ean T - 28/Jul/12
Have just had a fantastic day here inbetween dropping the kids at school and picking them up again in Aviemore...so good did it two days in a row and completed 12 great routes with more to go at. Fantastic effort to all those involved. N.B. Although realising the development is still in its infancy only two signs at the crag to warn of birds, both with route names to avoid but topos for crag still poor. I and my partner have climbed for a long time but found it difficult to know where the birds are nesting as we could make out three seperate nests of two owls & a raven. Please could either notices at base of routes to be avoided be placed or a plastic not cable tied to the bolts to prevent access untill topos have improved and be uopdated. Would hate to have this location removed by RSPB on grounds of disturbance through lack of info.
Northsea - 05/May/12
Popped past for a look today (no rope or partner), good effort all those involved with the recent work at this crag. Really look forward to getting on it.
Roberttaylor - 04/Jan/12
Moy Rock,Conon Bridge - Pudding Chimney - Severe - 31m Feb-68 First Ascent: Graeme Hunter, QT Chrichton Can you confirm this ascent, or was it done before 1968? Graeme Hunter
GN Hunter - 14/Oct/11
driven past many times and glad i stopped now, brilliant crag, climbing and setting. inspired me to get stronger.
Barber Baz - 12/Aug/11
Getting really popular now. To help reduce erosion please use the low angle approach path that starts from the very end of the steep logging track. This is much better for reducing erosion than the old path. WARNING- Please be very careful when pulling out from the parking due to fast overtaking vehicles on the main road.
nick carter - 10/May/11
One of the best mid grade sport venues in Scotland. The routes are long and well bolted. This crag deserves to be really popular. Big respect to the effort of all involved especially Andy Wilby.
sheppy - 30/Apr/11
Conglomerate!! Who needs Riglos eh. Completely bonkers and very cool. Long and pumpy (especially on the impressive main wall) and quite hard to onsight stuff but no doubt a lot easier for locals who have it wired and know where the "good grips" are. Watch out for a slipper feel to some of the holds.
Fiend - 10/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Eldorado 6a * 61
2 Holly Tree Groove 6a * 160
3 Conglomarete 4c * 179
4 Harderthanitlookscrack S 2
  Herring Wall
6 Moy Racer 6a * 164
7 The Herring 6c+ ** 100
8 Fighting off the Vultures 6a+ ** 298
9 The Old Man of Moy 6a+ * 317
10 Moy Bueno 6b ** 286
11 Pebbledash 6b ** 212
12 Corvus 5c ** 329
13 Scoopy Doo 6a+ * 89
  Raven's Wall
15 Ravens Nest 6a+ ** 33
16 Black Streak 6a+ ** 96
17 Pyramid 6a+ * 39
  Big Flat Wall
19 Match if you are weak 6c+ ** 44
20 The Dark Side 6c *** 133
21 Little Teaser 6b+ *** 330
22 Little Squeezer 6c+ * 23
23 Pulling on Pebbles
-
7a+ ** 87
24 Cobbledegook 7a+ * 8
Climb name Grade
25 The ticks ate all the midgies
-
7a *** 165
26 Cloak And Dagger
-
6c+ ** 76
27 Kitemark 6c ** 34
28 Pudding Chimney MS 2
29 Boggle VS 4b 1
  Seer Wall
31 One man went to Moy... 7a ** 73
32 Burning Barrels 6c * 78
33 The Seer 7b ** 96
34 The Seer left hand continuation
-
7b 22
35 The Fear 7b+ 21
36 The Adder Stone 6a+ * 24
37 The Adder Stone/Fear 7a * 3
38 Constant Flux 6c+ ** 37
  Slabs
40 Easy Slab 4c 203
41 Ankle Biters Delight 4c * 119
42 Ephemeral Artery 4c 95
43 Venus Return 4c ** 169
  Pebble Walls
45 Moy Soldiers 5c 201
46 Pebble Party 6a * 245
47 L Plate 5a * 194
48 The Fly 6a+ ** 197
Climb name Grade
49 Magnifascent 6a+ 39
50 Magnificrack E3 5b 6
  Forbidden Wall
52 Clansmen Wall Traverse V5 6b * 1
53 Silver Fox 7a * 36
54 The Clansman 7a+ * 20
55 Round the Bend 6a * 36
56 Hidden World 6a+ * 32
57 Flaky Start to Hidden World 6a 13
58 Forbidden Forest 7a 13
59 It's rock Jim, but not as we know it. 6c+ 21
60 Collywobbles 7a 4
61 Robert the Bruce's Spider 6a ** 110
62 Don't Look Down in Anger 6a+ * 71
63 The Curse of the Strong 6b * 56
64 Summer Solstice 6a+ * 38
65 'Ave it! 7b ** 35
66 I did it Moy Way 6b+ * 29
67 Red Setter 6a 22
  Roadside Boulder
69 East Side Story R to LTraverse f6A 3
70 South by West V3 1

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