Climbs 147
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 778m a.s.l
Faces E

Moving onto the exposed arête, pitch one. © Mudball

Crag features

Mainly long routes up to 100m in a superb mountain setting. Notoriously chilly even when the sun is shining! Classics - Arete Chimney and Crack(MS), Abraxas(E3), Eliminate A(VS), Giants Crawl(D), Nimrod(E1), Holocaust(E4), Tumble(E4), Catacomb (E1), Pink Panther(E2), Leopards Crawl(HVS), Murrays Direct(VS), Murrays Route(S), Close to Critical (E4), Pandora's Box (E5), Shining Path(E5), Paths of Victory(E6), C Ordinary(D), Hopkinsons Crack(HS).

Approach notes

Park in the carpark at the top of the tarmaced section of the Walna Scar road - it's no longer permissible to drive any further. 45 mins to 1 hour steady uphill walk. (Quick access for a Lakes mountain crag). No winter climbing on A or B buttress except gullies. (See Lake District White Guide).

Access Advice

There is a loose flake on pitch 6 of Giant's Crawl near the belay - extreme care is needed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines have been known to nest on the upper section of B Buttress, above Giants Crawl as well as C Buttress. The last time the birds were known to nest was 2014, but if visiting the crag early in the season please be aware that they could return and report to the BMC if birds are seen nesting.

Guidebooks

Probably the best crag in the Lakes, it has classic routes at every grade. The notoriety that this crag is cold comes from those idiots who insist on starting their routes in shorts and t-shirts. Always carry (and wear!)an extra sweater.
Alan Phizacklea - 03/Oct/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Easy Buttress
2 Woodhouse's Crack
-
D 2
3 Slingsby's Pinnacle South East Route
-
M 1
4 Slingsby's Pinnacle North West Route
-
VD 3
5 Blasphemy Crack
-
VS  
6 The Geek
-
VS 4c  
7 Easy Gully
-
M 28
8 Easy Gully II * 51
9 Easy Gully Right Branch III 6
  A Buttress
11 Easy Rake I 5
12 Crock's Crawl
-
VD 3
13 Lemontyde
-
HVS 5a  
14 Abrahams Route
-
M 10
15 Trident Route
-
HS 4b * 17
16 Necklace Route
-
HS 4b * 13
17 Arete, Chimney and Crack
-
S 3c ** 419
18 ArĂȘte, Chimney and Crack V 5 *** 13
19 Gordon and Craig's Route
-
S 3c ** 90
20 Southern Circuit
-
MVS 4b  
21 The Balrog
-
E2 5c * 26
22 Abracadabra
-
E5 6a *  
23 Abraxas
-
E3 5c ** 34
24 Isengard
-
HVS 5b ** 198
25 Samba Pa Ti
-
E2 5b ** 129
26 Eliminate 'A'
-
VS 4c *** 956
27 Silence
-
E2 5c 3
28 Brocklebank Variation
-
E3 6a  
29 Side Walk
-
E2 5b *** 111
30 North Wall
-
VS 2
31 Great Gully
-
VD 9
32 Great Gully IV 5 7
33 Great Gully - Traverse and Slab Variation IV 5  
  B Buttress (Upper Section)
35 Easy Terrace II * 54
36 Broadrick's Route
-
HS 4a * 5
37 Broadrick's Direct
-
VS 4a * 11
38 Broadrick's Crack
-
HS 4b * 11
39 Giant's Crawl
-
D ** 795
40 Giant's Crawl IV 4 10
41 Misty Mountain Hop
-
E3 6a * 8
42 Nimrod
-
E1 5c *** 218
43 Four Sticks
-
E3 5c 5
44 Genocide
-
E4 6b * 3
45 Holocaust
-
E4 6a *** 103
46 Tumble
-
E4 6a *** 77
47 Pandora's Box
-
E5 6b ** 3
48 Catacomb
-
E1 5b *** 124
49 Security Risk
-
E4 6a  
50 Another Fine Mess
-
E4 6a  
51 Hyacinth Route
-
HS  
  B Buttress (Lower Section)
53 Giant's Corner
-
S 3c * 35
54 The Issel Roof
-
E2 6a 8
55 Pink Panther
-
E2 5c *** 144
56 Leopard's Crawl
-
HVS 5a ** 285
57 Ildi Kiss
-
E3 6a  
58 Tarkus
-
E1 5b ** 89
59 Rough
-
E4 6a 3
60 Murray's Direct
-
VS 4c *** 423
61 Free Flight
-
E5 6b * 1
62 Astrakhan
-
E2 5c 1
63 Born Free
-
E1 5b 1
64 Murray's Super Direct
-
E2 5b ** 40
65 Eliminator
-
E1 5b 2
66 Murray's Route S 4a *** 672
67 The Simian Exit
-
HS 1
68 B Buttress Variations
-
E1 5b * 9
69 Rock It To Russia
-
E1 5b  
70 Madam
-
HVS 5a 4
71 Portfolio
-
E1 5c * 4
72 Abraham's Route
-
HS 4a * 120
73 Eliminate B
-
HVS 5a * 28
74 Second Test
-
E2 5c 1
75 Woodhouse's Route
-
VD * 34
76 Woodhouse's Route IV 5 ** 1
77 Woodhouse's Route Variation Finish
-
HS  
78 Woodhouse's Arete
-
E6 6b * 1
79 Pincher Martin
-
E5 6a  
80 Critical
-
E6 6c *  
81 Close to Critical
-
E4 6b * 1
82 Great Wall Variation Finish
-
HS  
83 West Face Route I  
84 The Shining Path
-
E5 6b ** 14
85 Paths to Victory
-
E6 6c **  
86 Hesperus E2 5c * 7
87 Central Chimney
-
S 4a ** 41
  C Buttress
89 Sirius
-
HVS 5a ** 28
90 Southern Slabs
-
S 3c * 31
91 'C' Ordinary Route
-
D *** 641
92 Ordinary Route C V 5 *** 7
93 Hawk Route
-
S 3c * 10
94 Charmer
-
HVS 5a 6
95 Eliminate 'C'
-
VS 4c ** 136
96 Intermediate Gully
-
MVS 4b * 23
97 North Gully III 4 * 4
98 Broadrick's Crack VI 7 *  
99 Hopkinson's Crack VI 7 *** 2
  D Buttress
101 Intermediate Gully VI 7 * 1
102 'D' Ordinary Route
-
VD * 72
103 Raven Route
-
S 3c * 10
104 Murray's Crack
-
HS 4b * 9
105 Jones' Route
-
VD * 5
106 Great Central Route
-
HVS 5b ** 64
107 The Norseman
-
E4 6a * 1
108 Hopkinson's Crack
-
HS 4a *** 103
109 Easter Rising
-
E2 5c * 4
110 Black Wall
-
HVS 5a ** 35
111 Adhara
-
E4 6a  
112 Lazarus
-
VD 18
113 Branch Chimney
-
VD 2
114 The Cage
-
HVS 5b 1
115 Snibbo
-
MVS 4b 1
116 North East Climb
-
VD 4
  Easter Gully (The Ampitheatre)
118 Easter Gully - Scoop Route III * 1
119 Cave Pitch
-
M 5
120 Blizzard Chimney
-
D 2
121 Private High
-
HVS 5a 1
122 Blizzard Ridge
-
MS 1
123 South Chimney
-
D 1
124 The Scoop
-
M 4
125 Levitation
-
S 1
126 National Heath
-
E3 5c 4
127 Dow Jones Index
-
E4 6a  
128 North Wall
-
HS 1
129 Black Chimney
-
D 2
130 Black Buttress
-
S  
  E Buttress
132 Left Hand Route (Route 1)
-
M 5
133 Gimli
-
HS  
134 Winstanley's Route
-
MS  
135 Minor's Route
-
D 1
  North Gully
137 North Gully Ordinary Route
-
HS  
138 North Gully Broadrick's Route
-
HS  
139 High Life
-
E2 5b  
140 Gate Crasher
-
E2 5b  
141 Acid House
-
E4 6b  
142 Pete's Party
-
VS 4c  
143 Pete's Party Variation Finish
-
VS 4c  
144 Quest
-
VS 4b 1
145 Real Chimney
-
M  
146 The Girdle Traverse
-
VS 5a  
147 F buttress III 3 * 4
148 'A' Ordinary E7 6c ** 2
149 E Buttress III 3 ** 2
150 Dow Crag summit
-
summit 429
151 Arette, Chimney And Crack MS 4
152 Artful Dodger HVS 5a ** 2
153 Easy Terrace and its continuation * 3 *** 12
154 Cool Breeze * f7A+ *  
155 The Gene * f7A *  
156 Ribofunk * f7A+ *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Neil Conway