Climbs 118
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

Tom pulling through the crux of High Performance. © mshorter

Crag features

Upper Cave Crag is an overhanging crag that offers some superb, steep routes. Recommended: Rat Race E4, Marlina 7c.

25.07.09 The missing bolts have been replaced on all routes with the exception of Ching, the very eliminate 8a.

Also accessed from the same car park as Upper Cave Crag are Lover's Leap, Even Lower Cave Crag and Lower Cave Crag. For logbook purposes I have included routes for these crags as well, in the order they appear in the SMC guidebook.

Approach notes

The crags are best accessed from the Forestry Commission car park at NO023437, reached off the A923 Dunkeld to Blairgowrie road. Felling operations may require detours from the approach routes given in the guidebook.

Can also be accessed as for Craig a Barns and then follow a complex path through the woods.

Actually the original climbs directly from the ring bolt (old bolt 2) to bolt 4 Climbing from 3 to 4 going right rather than up left and back right is easier in some peoples opinion so does not make any difference to grade.
sheppy - 22/May/14
Original goes more direct, moving rightwards and up, from the 3rd to 4th bolts, using the crystally pockets & crimps & a big reach to gain the jug below the 4th bolt. The other 7b+ variant (ie non-original) loops out to the left from the big undercling at the 3rd bolt on larger holds, but takes longer to get to the next clip. FWIW, I don't reckon there's much difference in difficulty either way, the crux is still to come at the finish!
Fraser - 01/May/11
What is the differance between Marlina and Marlina Original? I now don't know which one I have done. Will be dissapointed if I find out I have not climbed a 7c.
Dangerous Dave - 20/Apr/11
Please note the grades for Marlina and Marlina original are the wrong way round
sheppy - 11/Jan/11
Bolts are all back in as of 25.07.09
sheppy - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Ash Tree Wall
VD 6
2Tiff Off
VS *9
3Central RouteVS 13
4Central Route, Variation Start
VS 5a 1
E1 *1
6Bullet Direct Start
E1 * 
7Direct Route
S 8
8Direct route (Variation start)VS 4b *6
9Jungle Jim
VS 2
HS 1
11Little Gem
S 2
VS 4c 1
14Just for Laughs
E2 5b  
15Alternative Comedy
E1 5b 2
16The Cludge
VS 4c 6
17In the Shrubbery
E1 5b *2
18Secret Affair
HVS 5a  
19Stay Hungry
E4 6b *1
E4 6b *8
21The Stank
E1 *3
24Wot Gorilla
25The Hood
VS **106
26The Hood Direct
HVS *41
27Fuck FaceHVS **122
28The Stripper
29Grappler's Groove
HS 1
30Shikari Rib
HVS 5a  
E1 5a 1
S 1
33Cherry Tree Ridge
D *3
34Cherry Tree Ridge Direct FinishS *9
35Paramour's Rib
E1 5a *3
E1 5b  
37Tremendous Applause
E1 5b  
HVS 5a  
39Hot Line Direct
E2 5b  
40Evening Hot Line
E1 5c 1
41Morningside Warm Up
HVS 5a 2
42Sweaty Time Blues
E3 5c  
43Working Up A Sweat
E5 6b * 
44Chopping and Changing
E1 5b * 
45Generous Offering
E3 5c * 
46Sinners Paradise7a *3
47Six Fours-les Plage
6b 25
48Fear of the Dark
6b 26
49Father Figure
6b+ 18
50Left Edge
MVS 4b 1
51HosHVS 5a 1
52Sore Fingers
E1 5b 1
53Lilly White Lilleth
HVS 5b 5
S 4
55The RampHS *101
56Lily LangtryE2 5b *35
57Ring Piece
E5 6a  
E4 5c 1
59Voie de l'Amie
E3 5c **12
60Could It Be ForeverE4 5c ** 
61Hang OutE2 5b *19
62Tiggy McGregor's Moist AdventureE5 6b * 
63The Pied Piper
E3 ***5
64One Size Fits All
E4 6a  
65Lady CharlotteE5 6a,5c ***49
66Lady Charlotte DirectE5 6b **7
67Rat Catcher
E3 5b ***36
E5 6a 2
69In Loving MemoryE6 6b **6
E4 6b *6
71Sexy Lady
E4 6a 1
72MorbidezzaE5 6b ***19
73WarfarinE2 5c, 5b ***144
74Rat RaceE4 6a, 5b ***123
75Rat Race Direct FinishE4 6a **6
7c ***136
77Marlina Original7c **45
78Silk Teddies
7c *98
8a *4
80Ultima Necat
7b+ **80
81Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure7b+ **309
82The Silk Purse
7c+ ***80
83Fall Out Direct
7b+ *1
84Fall Out Original
7b *1
85The Crossing
E4 6b  
86Baled Out
E4 6b 1
87Squirm DirectE3 **73
88Stand Clear
E2 5a 3
E1 *128
E2 5c **151
91Corpse Left-hand Finish
E2 5b 4
92Post Mortem
E4 6b 4
93Coffin CornerHVS 5a **332
94Natural High
E7 6b ***6
95High PerformanceE3 6a **98
96High-er Performance?E6 6b *3
97Death's HeadE1 5c **198
98CrutchS **205
99Marjorie RazorbladeE3 6a,5a **123
100NoddyVD 10
101FlookVD *89
102FlukeS 4a 8
103Method ManE3 5b 3
104TumbleweedE2 5c *32
105Summer DaysE3 5c *41
106All Passion Spent
E4 6a *22
107Laughing GnomeE5 5c *34
108GnomeE1 5b **162
109The Stoned Gnome ConnectionE2 5c **4
110TombstoneE2 5c **58
E1 5b 23
112An Electric Feelf7B+ **1
113The Back Up PlanVD 2
114Prowed Scotsmanf6A 1
115Marlene Ultima Purse7c+  
116Marlenas purse7c **5
117The Silk Purse Direct7c+  
118Ultima Direct7b+ **25

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