Climbs 118
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

Tom pulling through the crux of High Performance. © mshorter

Crag features

Upper Cave Crag is an overhanging crag that offers some superb, steep routes. Recommended: Rat Race E4, Marlina 7c.


25.07.09 The missing bolts have been replaced on all routes with the exception of Ching, the very eliminate 8a.

Also accessed from the same car park as Upper Cave Crag are Lover's Leap, Even Lower Cave Crag and Lower Cave Crag. For logbook purposes I have included routes for these crags as well, in the order they appear in the SMC guidebook.

Approach notes

The crags are best accessed from the Forestry Commission car park at NO023437, reached off the A923 Dunkeld to Blairgowrie road. Felling operations may require detours from the approach routes given in the guidebook.

Can also be accessed as for Craig a Barns and then follow a complex path through the woods.

Actually the original climbs directly from the ring bolt (old bolt 2) to bolt 4 Climbing from 3 to 4 going right rather than up left and back right is easier in some peoples opinion so does not make any difference to grade.
sheppy - 22/May/14
Original goes more direct, moving rightwards and up, from the 3rd to 4th bolts, using the crystally pockets & crimps & a big reach to gain the jug below the 4th bolt. The other 7b+ variant (ie non-original) loops out to the left from the big undercling at the 3rd bolt on larger holds, but takes longer to get to the next clip. FWIW, I don't reckon there's much difference in difficulty either way, the crux is still to come at the finish!
Fraser - 01/May/11
What is the differance between Marlina and Marlina Original? I now don't know which one I have done. Will be dissapointed if I find out I have not climbed a 7c.
Dangerous Dave - 20/Apr/11
Please note the grades for Marlina and Marlina original are the wrong way round
sheppy - 11/Jan/11
Bolts are all back in as of 25.07.09
sheppy - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ash Tree Wall
-
VD 6
2 Tiff Off
-
VS * 11
3 Central Route VS 13
4 Central Route, Variation Start
-
VS 5a 1
5 Bullet
-
E1 * 1
6 Bullet Direct Start
-
E1 *  
7 Direct Route
-
S 8
8 Direct route (Variation start) VS 4b * 6
9 Jungle Jim
-
VS 2
10 Twister
-
HS 1
11 Little Gem
-
S 2
12 Hedgehog
-
VS 4c 1
13 Worms
-
VD  
14 Just for Laughs
-
E2 5b  
15 Alternative Comedy
-
E1 5b 2
16 The Cludge
-
VS 4c 6
17 In the Shrubbery
-
E1 5b * 2
18 Secret Affair
-
HVS 5a  
19 Stay Hungry
-
E4 6b * 1
20 Civer
-
E4 6b * 7
21 The Stank
-
E1 * 3
22 Kaituma
-
HVS  
23 Cabaret
-
E1  
24 Wot Gorilla
-
E1  
25 The Hood
-
VS ** 119
26 The Hood Direct
-
HVS * 43
27 Fuck Face HVS ** 126
28 The Stripper
-
HVS  
29 Grappler's Groove
-
HS 1
30 Shikari Rib
-
HVS 5a  
31 Geronimo
-
E1 5a 1
32 Grot
-
S 1
33 Cherry Tree Ridge
-
D * 3
34 Cherry Tree Ridge Direct Finish S * 10
35 Paramour's Rib
-
E1 5a * 2
36 Dram
-
E1 5b  
37 Tremendous Applause
-
E1 5b  
38 Dhias
-
HVS 5a  
39 Hot Line Direct
-
E2 5b  
40 Evening Hot Line
-
E1 5c 1
41 Morningside Warm Up
-
HVS 5a 2
42 Sweaty Time Blues
-
E3 5c  
43 Working Up A Sweat
-
E5 6b *  
44 Chopping and Changing
-
E1 5b *  
45 Generous Offering
-
E3 5c *  
46 Sinners Paradise 7a * 3
47 Six Fours-les Plage
-
6b 26
48 Fear of the Dark
-
6b 31
49 Father Figure
-
6b+ 18
50 Left Edge
-
MVS 4b 1
51 Hos HVS 5a 1
52 Sore Fingers
-
E1 5b 1
53 Lilly White Lilleth
-
HVS 5b 5
54 Sidewinder
-
S 4
55 The Ramp HS * 107
56 Lily Langtry E2 5b * 38
57 Ring Piece
-
E5 6a  
58 Gotterdammerung
-
E4 5c 1
59 Voie de l'Amie
-
E3 5c ** 12
60 Could It Be Forever E4 5c **  
61 Hang Out E2 5b * 20
62 Tiggy McGregor's Moist Adventure E5 6b *  
63 The Pied Piper
-
E3 *** 5
64 One Size Fits All
-
E4 6a  
65 Lady Charlotte E5 6a,5c *** 53
66 Lady Charlotte Direct E5 6b ** 7
67 Rat Catcher
-
E3 5b *** 39
68 Necrophilia
-
E5 6a 2
69 In Loving Memory E6 6b ** 6
70 Mousetrap
-
E4 6b * 6
71 Sexy Lady
-
E4 6a 1
72 Morbidezza E5 6b *** 15
73 Warfarin E2 5c, 5b *** 156
74 Rat Race E4 6a, 5b *** 132
75 Rat Race Direct Finish E4 6a ** 10
76 Marlina
-
7c *** 148
77 Marlina Original 7c ** 43
78 Silk Teddies
-
7c * 101
79 Ching,
-
8a * 4
80 Ultima Necat
-
7b+ ** 81
81 Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure 7b+ ** 322
82 The Silk Purse
-
7c+ *** 81
83 Fall Out Direct
-
7b+ * 1
84 Fall Out Original
-
7b * 1
85 The Crossing
-
E4 6b  
86 Baled Out
-
E4 6b 1
87 Squirm Direct E3 ** 76
88 Stand Clear
-
E2 5a 3
89 Squirm
-
E1 * 138
90 Corpse
-
E2 5c ** 154
91 Corpse Left-hand Finish
-
E2 5b 4
92 Post Mortem
-
E4 6b 5
93 Coffin Corner HVS 5a ** 358
94 Natural High
-
E7 6b *** 5
95 High Performance E3 6a ** 109
96 High-er Performance? E6 6b * 3
97 Death's Head E1 5c ** 219
98 Crutch S ** 222
99 Marjorie Razorblade E3 6a,5a ** 131
100 Noddy VD 11
101 Flook VD * 92
102 Fluke S 4a 8
103 Method Man E3 5b 3
104 Tumbleweed E2 5c * 33
105 Summer Days E3 5c * 42
106 All Passion Spent
-
E4 6a * 22
107 Laughing Gnome E5 5c * 36
108 Gnome E1 5b ** 174
109 The Stoned Gnome Connection E2 5c ** 6
110 Tombstone E2 5c ** 66
111 Epitaph
-
E1 5b 23
112 An Electric Feel f7B+ ** 1
113 The Back Up Plan VD 2
114 Prowed Scotsman f6A 1
115 Marlene Ultima Purse 7c+  
116 Marlenas purse 7c ** 4
117 The Silk Purse Direct 7c+  
118 Ultima Direct 7b+ ** 24

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