Climbs 203
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 360m a.s.l
Faces S

So close yet so far © andymoin

Crag features

Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.
It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.

The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.

The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.

Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.

The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.

Approach notes

Park at the layby opposite the obvious lake - Loch you idiot! You're in Scotland!

I doubt I will ever stop being amused by the SMC refusing to publish a guide to this back in the 70s. Such a major and high quality cliff, what were they thinking!
Fiend - 07/Oct/13
I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in...
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07
A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area. Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run out...you will have a field day! The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and sweaty....best to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep. And to add to the must do list: Jump so high combination E1 5b The Hill E2 5b Over the Hill E3 5c The Furher E4 5c Bratach Uaine E4 6a Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary) The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary) Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet looks excellent though. Hope this is of some use. Russ.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bed Time Buttress
  Lower Left Wall
3 Negligee
-
VS 5a 14
4 Quickie
-
HVS 5a * 7
5 Camisole E2 5c *  
6 Downtown Lunch
-
HVS 5b ** 17
7 Mount
-
VD 1
8 Sideshow
-
HVS 4c  
  Upper Tier
10 Unlawful Behaviour
-
E2 5b  
11 Jailbreak
-
E3 5c  
12 Redwings E4 6a  
13 The Vainglorious E2 5c *  
14 First Offence
-
E4 5c ** 8
15 Zen E5 6a *** 5
16 The Atom of Delight E4 6a * 2
17 The Art of Relaxation
-
E4 6a ** 14
18 Case Dismissed
-
E3 6a ** 29
19 Case Dismissed Direct Finish E4 6a ** 15
20 Cadillac
-
E4 6a * 5
21 Coda E2 5b * 2
22 Cabriolet E4 5c *  
23 Ca va? E3 5c * 4
24 C'est la Vie
-
E3 5c 6
25 Hands Off
-
E2 5c * 1
26 Carte blanche E2 5c ** 4
27 Legover E2 5c 5
28 Subjugation E4 6a *  
29 Galaxy
-
E4 6a ** 2
30 Ruff Licks
-
E3 5c *** 41
31 These Days E5 6b **  
32 Twenty Years from Now E5 6b **  
33 Apathizer
-
E5 6b ** 1
34 Aye E7 6b ** 2
35 Ayatollah E4 6a *** 17
36 Muph Dive
-
E2 5c ** 41
37 Tyranny E3 5c 5
38 Muffin The Mule (Left Start ) E1 5b ** 18
39 Muffin the Mule
-
E1 5c ** 25
40 Disaffection E2 5c * 6
41 Down Town After Lunch
-
HVS 5a ** 17
  Lower Right Wall
43 Cuckold
-
E2 5b * 30
44 Most Girls Do
-
E1 5a * 15
45 Sylvia E2 5b * 2
46 Porn
-
E1 5a ** 43
47 Gham VS 4c 6
48 Phoenicurus E2 5c * 1
49 Succer E1 †  
50 Prak VS †  
51 Bedtime Gully III 4
52 Ground Control E3 5c †  
53 Youthanasia *
-
E1 5b * 3
  Little Rock
55 Mistaken Identity
-
VS 4b 1
56 Hungarian Hamstring
-
VS 4c * 7
57 Bulgarian Biceps HVS 5a 1
58 Cross Leaved Health
-
E5 6a * 1
59 Heather Wall
-
E5 6a **  
60 This One
-
E5 6b *  
61 Un Petit Mort E2 5b * 5
  Waterfall Wall
63 Jade
-
E1 5b 1
64 Brass
-
HS 4a ** 3
65 Serendipity
-
E3 5c * 2
66 Jezebel
-
E1 5b 1
67 Zygote
-
E2 5c  
68 Brazen
-
VS 5a 1
69 Warmer than a Badger's Bum
-
E1 5b 1
70 The Bum Direct
-
HVS 5a 1
71 The Badger Direct
-
E2 5c 1
72 Pattern of Violence
-
E1 5b * 3
73 On Guard
-
E2 5c 1
74 Take Three
-
E2 5b * 1
75 Cockquack
-
HVS 4c  
76 Cockadoodlemoobahquack
-
VD 1
77 Desperate Times IV 5 2
78 Oui Oui(Summer) D ** 6
79 Oui Oui
-
III ** 64
80 Golden Shower VI 6 ***  
81 Orinoco
-
VS 4b  
82 Zambezi
-
HVS 5a  
83 Niagara
-
E1 5b ** 7
84 Wet Dreams
-
E2 5c *** 30
85 Wet Dreams/Niagara E2 5c *** 8
86 Not Before Time
-
E3 5c * 1
87 Bratach Uaine
-
E4 6a *** 4
88 Snotrag
-
E6 6b *  
89 Acapulco
-
E4 6a *** 28
90 Independence E3 5c ** 7
91 Face Value
-
E3 5c ** 10
92 Epar
-
VS 4c ** 20
93 Pare
-
HVS 4c * 2
94 Hayripi
-
S 4a ** 31
95 Crazy Paving
-
E3 5b  
96 Tip Off
-
VS 4c ** 40
97 Acrobat
-
HVS 5a 1
98 Show Off
-
E2 5b  
99 Take Off
-
VS 4c 12
100 Offspring
-
E2 5c * 9
101 In Between Times
-
E3 5c ** 6
102 Smirnoff
-
E1 5a * 24
103 Romp
-
VD 5
104 Romp(Winter) IV 6 2
105 Silk Road III 2
  Ivy Walls
107 Trampoline
-
VS 5a  
108 Breakaway
-
HVS 5a ** 14
109 Silicosis
-
E5 6a *  
110 Probe E1 5b 4
111 Straight Line
-
HVS 5a * 3
112 Line Up
-
HVS 5a * 6
113 Route Toot Toot
-
HVS 4b 1
114 Easy Going
-
HVS 4c  
  Great Wall
116 Men Only
-
E2 5b ** 5
117 Run Free E4 †  
118 King Bee
-
VS 5a *** 327
119 King Bee Direct Start HVS 5a *** 128
120 Nutcracker Chimney
-
VS 4b 1
121 Erse
-
E4 5c ** 21
122 Jump for Joy
-
E2 5b ** 18
123 Brute
-
VS 5a ** 149
124 L.M.F.
-
E1 5b ** 48
125 Suckmaboaby E1 5b *  
126 Fou rire E3 6a **  
127 Organ Grinder
-
E1 5b * 7
128 Outspan
-
E2 5b ** 36
129 King Tubby and the Fat Boy's Rap
-
E2 5b  
130 The Fuhrer
-
E4 5c *** 58
131 Colder Than a Hooker's heart E5 5c ** 7
132 Harder than your Husband
-
E5 6a * 6
133 The Final Solution E5 6a *** 20
134 The Hill E2 5b *** 125
135 Over the Hill E3 5c *** 55
136 Inbred HVS 5a *** 369
137 Inbred Direct Finish
-
E1 5b * 6
138 Strapadicktaemi
-
E1 5a ** 103
139 The Force
-
E2 5b * 1
140 Minge
-
E2 5c * 7
141 Migraine
-
HVS 5a * 2
142 Bulger
-
E3 5c  
143 Rising Damp E1 5b ** 4
144 Great Wall Girdle
-
HVS 5a 2
145 Under The Skin * E3 5c * 1
  Lower Central Wall
147 Rib Direct
-
S 4a * 28
148 Sense of Urgency
-
E3 6b  
149 Snoopy
-
HVS 5a  
150 Mighty Piston
-
E2 5a 1
151 Arch Enemy
-
E4 5c  
152 Ticket to Ride E3 5b *** 27
153 Ninja
-
E3 5b * 3
154 Sweetness
-
E1 5a * 4
155 Cunnulinctus
-
VS 4c * 42
156 Cunnulinctus (Sheath Variation) E1 5a * 7
157 Phellatio
-
HVS 5a ** 97
158 Scampi Fries E1 5a * 2
159 Centrespread E2 5c * 5
160 Tongue Twister
-
E1 5a * 5
161 Fiorella
-
HVS 4c ** 20
162 Oddli
-
E1 5a 5
163 Mirador
-
S 4a * 52
164 Fred
-
VD 3
165 Fred (winter)
-
IV 5 2
  Lower Right Wall
167 Scraping the Barrel
-
HVS 5a * 4
168 Oh de goo E2 5b *  
169 Goutes d' Eau
-
E2 5b ** 7
170 Featherlight
-
E1 5c * 4
171 Thyme
-
VS 4c * 9
172 Man on Fire
-
E1 5b ** 20
173 Big Jugs E2 5c *  
174 The Sting E1 5b * 7
175 Wee Fried Eggs E3 6a  
176 Pshaw
-
HS  
177 Black Shadow
-
HVS 4c  
178 Gossamer
-
HVS 4c 1
179 Potato D 5
  Sprawl Wall
181 Free and Easy
-
VS 4c  
182 Cream Dream
-
E2 5b *  
183 Gang Bang
-
HVS 5a * 9
184 Hot to Trot
-
E1 5b * 4
185 Hornet
-
HVS 5a * 2
186 Desire
-
E2 † 2
187 Footloose and Fancy Free
-
E4 †  
188 Jack the Lad
-
E2 †  
189 Felix
-
E2 †  
190 Raven's Squawk
-
VS 4b * 8
191 Concealed Entrance
-
E2 5c 1
192 Slanting Groove
-
HVS 4c  
193 Stoop so Low
-
HVS 4c 1
194 Instant Lemon
-
E3 5c **  
195 Migrants E5 6a ***  
196 Instant Lemon Direct E5 6a **  
197 Yes, Yes! E7 6b *  
198 The Meejies
-
E6 6b **  
199 Jump So High Direct
-
E2 5c *** 34
200 Separation
-
E2 5b *  
201 Conclusions E2 5c *  
202 Jump So High
-
E1 5b ** 20
203 Goatee E2 5c  
204 Hipsters E2 5c  
205 Tree Hee Direct VS 4c ** 8
206 Tree Hee 2nd Pitch Variant VS 4b * 4
207 Tree Hee 1st Pitch Variant VS 4c ** 2
208 Tree Hee
-
HS 4a ** 124
209 Giggling Slab VS 4c ** 8
210 Slabsville
-
VS 4b * 2
211 Sprawl Wall Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b  
  Unknown Climbs
213 The Frustrations
-
E1 *  
214 Nobodies Fault but Mine
-
E4 *  
215 Were do all the calculators go HVS 4c,4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Liam Ingram and andymoin