Climbs 206
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 360m a.s.l
Faces S

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So close yet so far © andymoin

Crag features

Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.
It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.

The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.

The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.

Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.

The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.

Approach notes

Park at the layby opposite the obvious lake - Loch you idiot! You're in Scotland! - Alright mate calm yourself!

I doubt I will ever stop being amused by the SMC refusing to publish a guide to this back in the 70s. Such a major and high quality cliff, what were they thinking!
Fiend - 07/Oct/13
I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in...
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07
A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area. Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run out...you will have a field day! The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and sweaty....best to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep. And to add to the must do list: Jump so high combination E1 5b The Hill E2 5b Over the Hill E3 5c The Furher E4 5c Bratach Uaine E4 6a Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary) The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary) Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet looks excellent though. Hope this is of some use. Russ.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bed Time Buttress
  Lower Left Wall
3 Negligee
-
VS 5a 15
4 Quickie
-
HVS 5a * 10
5 Camisole E2 5c *  
6 Downtown Lunch
-
HVS 5b ** 23
7 Mount
-
VD 2
8 Sideshow
-
HVS 4c  
  Upper Tier
10 Unlawful Behaviour
-
E2 5b  
11 Jailbreak
-
E3 5c  
12 Redwings E4 6a  
13 The Vainglorious E2 5c * 1
14 First Offence
-
E4 5c ** 9
15 Zen E5 6a *** 10
16 The Atom of Delight E4 6a * 4
17 The Art of Relaxation
-
E4 6a ** 21
18 Case Dismissed
-
E3 6a ** 40
19 Case Dismissed Direct Finish E4 6a ** 15
20 Cadillac
-
E4 6a * 6
21 Coda E2 5b * 2
22 Cabriolet E4 5c *  
23 Ca va? E3 5c * 4
24 C'est la Vie
-
E3 5c 6
25 Hands Off
-
E2 5c * 3
26 Carte blanche E2 5c ** 5
27 Legover E2 5c 8
28 Subjugation E4 6a *  
29 Galaxy
-
E4 6a ** 3
30 Ruff Licks
-
E3 5c *** 58
31 These Days E5 6b **  
32 Twenty Years from Now E5 6b **  
33 Apathizer
-
E5 6b ** 1
34 Aye E7 6b ** 3
35 Ayatollah E4 6a *** 21
36 Muph Dive
-
E2 5c ** 55
37 Tyranny E3 5c 5
38 Muffin The Mule (Left Start ) E1 5b ** 22
39 Muffin the Mule
-
E1 5c ** 41
40 Disaffection E2 5c * 10
41 Down Town After Lunch
-
HVS 5a ** 20
  Lower Right Wall
43 Cuckold
-
E2 5b * 32
44 Most Girls Do
-
E1 5a * 21
45 Sylvia E2 5b * 2
46 Porn
-
E1 5a ** 47
47 Gham VS 4c 6
48 Phoenicurus E2 5c * 1
49 Succer E1  
50 Prak VS  
51 Bedtime Gully III 4
52 Ground Control E3 5c †  
53 Youthanasia *
-
E1 5b * 3
  Little Rock
55 Mistaken Identity
-
VS 4b 4
56 Hungarian Hamstring
-
VS 4c * 13
57 Bulgarian Biceps HVS 5a 2
58 Cross Leaved Heath
-
E5 6a * 1
59 Heather Wall
-
E5 6a ** 2
60 This One
-
E5 6b *  
61 Ling E5 6a ** 3
62 Un Petit Mort E2 5b * 10
  Waterfall Wall
64 Jade
-
E1 5b 1
65 Brass
-
HS 4a ** 4
66 Serendipity
-
E3 5c * 2
67 Jezebel
-
E1 5b 1
68 Zygote
-
E2 5c  
69 Brazen
-
VS 5a 1
70 Warmer than a Badger's Bum
-
E1 5b 1
71 The Bum Direct
-
HVS 5a 1
72 The Badger Direct
-
E2 5c 1
73 Pattern of Violence
-
E2 5b * 3
Climb name Grade
74 On Guard
-
E2 5c 1
75 Take Three
-
E2 5b * 1
76 Cockquack
-
HVS 4c  
77 Cockadoodlemoobahquack
-
VD 2
78 Desperate Times IV 5 2
79 Oui Oui (Summer) D ** 6
80 Oui Oui
-
III ** 76
81 Golden Shower VI 6 ***  
82 Orinoco
-
VS 4b  
83 Zambezi
-
HVS 5a  
84 Niagara
-
E1 5b ** 7
85 Wet Dreams
-
E2 5c *** 35
86 Wet Dreams/Niagara E2 5c *** 8
87 Not Before Time
-
E3 5c * 1
88 Bratach Uaine
-
E4 6a *** 4
89 Snotrag
-
E6 6b *  
90 Acapulco
-
E4 6a *** 30
91 Independence E3 5c ** 9
92 Face Value
-
E3 5c ** 14
93 Epar
-
VS 4c ** 27
94 Pare
-
HVS 4c * 2
95 Hayripi
-
S 4a ** 45
96 Crazy Paving
-
E3 5b  
97 Tip Off
-
VS 4c ** 51
98 Acrobat HVS 5a 5
99 Show Off
-
E2 5b 1
100 Take Off
-
VS 4c 15
101 Offspring
-
E2 5c * 8
102 In Between Times
-
E3 5c ** 8
103 Smirnoff
-
E1 5a * 34
104 Romp (Summer)
-
VD 5
105 Romp (Winter) IV 6 2
106 Silk Road III 2
  Ivy Walls
108 Trampoline
-
VS 5a  
109 Breakaway
-
HVS 5a ** 21
110 Silicosis
-
E5 6a *  
111 Probe E1 5b 4
112 Straight Line
-
HVS 5a * 7
113 Line Up
-
HVS 5a * 8
114 Route Toot Toot
-
HVS 4b 1
115 Easy Going
-
HVS 4c  
116 Kelly * VS 5a 7
  Great Wall
118 Men Only
-
E2 5b ** 13
119 Run Free E4  
120 King Bee
-
VS 5a *** 363
121 King Bee Direct Start HVS 5a *** 167
122 Nutcracker Chimney
-
VS 4b 3
123 Erse
-
E4 5c ** 22
124 Jump for Joy
-
E2 5b ** 23
125 Brute
-
VS 5a ** 181
126 L.M.F.
-
E1 5b ** 67
127 Suckmaboaby E1 5b * 1
128 Fou rire E3 6a ** 1
129 Organ Grinder
-
E1 5b * 10
130 Outspan
-
E2 5b ** 55
131 King Tubby and the Fat Boy's Rap
-
E2 5b  
132 The Fuhrer
-
E4 5c *** 80
133 Mein Kampf * E7 6b *  
134 Colder Than a Hooker's heart E5 5c ** 8
135 Harder than your Husband
-
E5 6a * 7
136 The Final Solution E5 6a *** 23
137 The Hill E2 5b *** 155
138 Over the Hill E3 5c *** 76
139 Under The Skin * E3 5c * 3
140 Inbred HVS 5a *** 424
141 Inbred Direct Finish E1 5b * 21
142 Strapadicktaemi
-
E1 5a ** 129
143 The Force
-
E2 5b * 1
144 Minge
-
E2 5c * 12
145 Migraine
-
HVS 5a * 3
146 Bulger
-
E3 5c  
Climb name Grade
147 Rising Damp E1 5b ** 4
148 Great Wall Girdle
-
HVS 5a 2
  Lower Central Wall
150 Rib Direct
-
S 4a * 34
151 Sense of Urgency
-
E3 6b  
152 Snoopy
-
HVS 5a 1
153 Mighty Piston
-
E2 5a 2
154 Arch Enemy
-
E4 5c  
155 Ticket to Ride E3 5b *** 34
156 Ninja
-
E3 5b * 3
157 Sweetness
-
E1 5a * 7
158 Cunnulinctus
-
VS 4c * 61
159 Cunnulinctus (Sheath Variation) E1 5a * 13
160 Phellatio
-
HVS 5a ** 137
161 Scampi Fries E1 5a * 2
162 Centrespread E2 5c * 8
163 Tongue Twister
-
E1 5a * 5
164 Fiorella
-
HVS 4c ** 33
165 Oddli
-
E1 5a 5
166 Mirador
-
S 4a * 70
167 Fred (Summer)
-
VD 3
168 Fred (Winter)
-
IV 5 2
  Lower Right Wall
170 Scraping the Barrel
-
HVS 5a * 12
171 Oh de goo E2 5b *  
172 Goutes d' Eau
-
E2 5b ** 10
173 Featherlight
-
E1 5c * 4
174 Thyme
-
VS 4c * 13
175 Man on Fire
-
E1 5b ** 29
176 Big Jugs E2 5c * 2
177 The Sting E1 5b * 8
178 Wee Fried Eggs E3 6a  
179 Pshaw
-
HS  
180 Black Shadow
-
HVS 4c  
181 Gossamer
-
HVS 4c 1
182 Potato D 6
  Sprawl Wall
184 Free and Easy
-
VS 4c  
185 Cream Dream
-
E2 5b *  
186 Gang Bang
-
HVS 5a * 10
187 Hot to Trot
-
E1 5b * 4
188 Hornet
-
HVS 5a * 2
189 Desire
-
E2 2
190 Footloose and Fancy Free
-
E4  
191 Jack the Lad
-
E2  
192 Felix
-
E2  
193 Raven's Squawk
-
VS 4b * 12
194 Concealed Entrance
-
E2 5c 1
195 Slanting Groove
-
HVS 4c  
196 Stoop so Low
-
HVS 4c 4
197 Instant Lemon
-
E3 5c ** 2
198 Migrants E5 6a ***  
199 Instant Lemon Direct E5 6a **  
200 Yes, Yes! E7 6b *  
201 The Meejies
-
E6 6b **  
202 Jump So High Direct
-
E2 5c *** 39
203 Separation
-
E2 5b *  
204 Conclusions E2 5c *  
205 Jump So High
-
E1 5b ** 21
206 Goatee E2 5c  
207 Hipsters E2 5c  
208 Tree Hee Direct VS 4c ** 21
209 Tree Hee 2nd Pitch Variant VS 4b * 5
210 Tree Hee 1st Pitch Variant VS 4c ** 2
211 Tree Hee
-
HS 4a ** 126
212 Giggling Slab VS 4c ** 12
213 Slabsville
-
VS 4b * 2
214 Sprawl Wall Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b  
  Unknown Climbs
216 The Frustrations
-
E1 *  
217 Nobodies Fault but Mine
-
E4 *  
218 Where do all the calculators go HVS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Liam Ingram and andymoin