Climbs 41
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces S

A lucky 3rd attempt with the auto-timer - just before my battery died © 7om

Crag features

The Forth Valley's microscopic version of Fontainbleau! Three small buttresses of hard, clean and sound sandstone, with an unlikely setting on the edge of the flat sedimentary plains of the Carse. Flat grassy landings and a pleasant outlook make this a great place to spend a couple of hours, particularly on a sunny winters day.
Unless stated otherwise all the problems described are climbed from a sit start to make the most of the wee buttresses. The top of the crag and the bigger holds can gather a lot of debris from the trees so it's a good idea to take a soft brush to clear this before you start climbing.
The first rock encountered is a small square block with a green corner on its left. The main crag is next, a wave formation with a wee overhang low on the right and a bulging rounded arete on the left. Round the corner from the left end of The Wave is a steep orange slab and 10m to the north is another small wall with a corner groove in the centre.
The crag is in the middle of working farmland so please treat it with respect and don't bring dogs. A herd of mules roam freely here and they don't like dogs.
There have also been problems climbed on even smaller buttresses about 100m to the west, close to the ruins of Bruce's castle.

Approach notes

From Stirling, travel along the A905 towards Airth and the turning onto the B9124. Carry on along this road for two miles then park at the entrance to a gatehouse, making sure not to block the access (the guy who lives in the gatehouse sometimes has to park a small lorry here). Walk north along the farm track for 1.2km to a gate on the left, go through this then skirt the south end of the pine trees. Directly ahead is another stand of trees, the crag is hidden in the south of these.


No guides found for this crag

Wandered up for a quick look. Rock was a little green but surprisingly good quality. style of climbing and roc ktype reminded me of northumberland crags like kyloe. will definitely be visiting again some time
James90 - 05/May/14
Visited today, very green and licheny and damp in places, but good rock, flat landings and some nice problems. Take a brush for the rock and a rag for your shoes. On many problems the main difficulty is in getting off the ground so using a bouldering pad may well make things easier!
DWilliamson - 22/Mar/14
Tiny, tiny venue but good rock. Wave by far the best boulder but beware its tree shaded in summer and could stay a little greasy after rain. Topo mentioned below only shows the wave boulder. Sunset slab was in need of a bit of a clean. Combine with a Wolfcrag session as not enough for a day. Lovely location when the bluebells are out, shame its not 5-6ft higher
pebblespanker - 28/May/12
mhowie - 02/Apr/12
With a bit of cleaning there are some fun problems here. Nothing too big but there's still a good variation in styles - slab, overhangs, traverses, mantelshelfs, slopers and powerful crimps. Can someone add a topo?? If I took the pictures maybe the crag admin and first ascentionist would be able to mark the routes. Took forever to work them out from the descriptions....
mhowie - 01/Apr/12
Now rectified Phatman.
aln - 27/Jul/10
PP, some of them are...
aln - 05/Jul/10
All sit down starts. Looks like they need to be lying doon starts.....
Ian Jones - 05/Jul/10
This looks like a great spot for beginners but with no route descriptions added yet, confusing is an understatement.
Phatman - 13/Sep/09
Very, very small but good quality rock with good problems. Best to take a brush.
Eric9Points - 19/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Block
2 Trunk Line VB 4a 8
3 Branch Line VB 4b 9
4 Leaves on the Track VB 5a 5
5 Green Day f3 5a 11
6 Scottish Idiot VB 5b 5
  The Wave
8 Donkey Kong f4 * 9
9 Dunkin' Dobnuts f4+ 5a 9
10 Eeyore f5 5b * 7
11 Kiss My Ass f4+ 5a 10
12 Pin The Tail On The Donkey f4+ 5a 13
13 Girlpower f5+ 5c * 7
14 Girlpower SS f6A 6a ** 5
15 Airth To Mars (2-Handed) f6A ** 4
Climb name Grade
16 Airth To Mars f5+ 5b * 7
17 Demolition Dobbin f6A 5c 10
18 Hung Like A Mule f4+ 5a 7
19 A Donkeys Tail f3 4b 7
20 One Trick Pony f3 4a 9
21 Stuck in A Gerard Kelly Loop f6B 5c ** 1
22 Mule Train f6A 5b * 6
23 Mother Airth Traverse f6A+ 6a ** 3
24 Donkey Ride f4 5a 7
25 Mother Airth f6A * 5
26 Airthenwear f6A 5c * 2
  Sunset Slab
28 Sunset Boulevard VB 5c 4
29 Sunset Strip VB 4c 4
30 Hello Sunshine VB 6a * 4
Climb name Grade
31 Sunset Slab VB 5a * 12
32 Sun's Up f6A+ 6a/b * 6
33 Sunday Sundae VB 5b 4
34 Sundowner VB 6
  The North Face
36 ER VB 7
37 Crumb By Crumb VB 5a 3
38 TTF VB 5b * 4
39 Wayne's Wold VB 4b * 8
40 Bug Day VB 5b * 4
41 Wyno VB 5b 3
42 CG1 VB 4b 6
43 Fingerfocks VB 5a 8
44 Fingerfocks ss VB 5c 3
45 10-bob Swally VB 5a 1

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