UKC

Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Conor on the well named 'Bucket Symphony' at Moughton Nab © Dave Warburton

Approach notes

During a visit to the crag on Saturday 22nd September, we were approached by the landowner and asked not to access the crag from the left hand end (when facing the crag) as described in the Rockfax Northern Limestone guidebook. He advised this was due to a fence and wall getting climbed over and damaged at the start of the Quarry Sector and also between the Sporadic Walls and Soft Centre  

He asked that we access the crag from the right-hand end, via the footpath which runs around the north side of the quarry to Foredale. Then from the footpath walk up the fairly steep shoulder to the crag. We were unaware of the access land designation when talking to him (or if there have been previous access discussions) but the request seems reasonable for accessing the right hand end of the crag and avoids crossing any walls to get to the Soft Centre or Overhanging Buttress. It may even be a slightly shorter approach if you park at Foredale. 

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Last updated on 21/Jun/2019

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

 Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Limestone (2005)
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Well worth a visit but don't believe the approach time quoted in the Rockfax guide. The walk in takes 20-30 minutes!
roger whetton - 05/Oct/15
Great crag, climber here 16th June 2015 in Soft centre area. All the climbs offer something interesting, bolting is great ! a great crag to build some confidence.
Ahogg16 - 19/Jun/15
Had a good day climbing on the Soft Centre routes. They are shortish, well bolted and on good sound rock. Good work and bolting by the Yorkshire boys.
Christheclimber - 23/May/15
My recent visit: http://epicmountainadventures.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/sport-climbing-at-moughton-nab-yorkshire.html
Si Withington - 25/Aug/12
The quality of the rock at the top of the crag is very poor and makes it difficult to make even a tenuous belay. Not worth the visit.
Ragingpossum - 07/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Turnip VS 5a * 1
2 Wicked Witch HS 4c 1
3 Ugly Sister HS 4b 1
4 Storm
-
 E3 6a 1
5 Windy Nick
-
 E2 5c 1
6 Breezy
-
 E1 5b * 3
  Quarry Sector
8 The Mystery Call
-
 E1 5b 1
9 Too Strong To Dislocate 6b 19
10 Quarry Act 6b 17
11 Momentus
-
 VS 4c 2
12 Turnover
-
 VS 4c 6
13 Six Pockets
-
 E1 5b 2
14 Black Hole Below 6b * 5
15 The Moughton Mauler E4 6a 9
16 The Ribblesdale Ripper 7a+ 19
17 The Weakening Eye of Day 7b * 6
18 Far From the Malham Crowds 7a * 30
19 Look - No Feet 7a+ * 12
20 The Return of the Native 7a+ * 6
21 Cracker
-
 VS 4c 2
22 Middle Age Rage 7a * 19
23 A Breath of Fresh Air 7b ** 8
24 Wild Child 6c ** 22
25 Roger Irrelevant
-
 VD 2
26 Wee Dorrit 5c * 43
27 Transformations 7a+ 1
28 Trude the Obscure 6b+ * 27
29 Jude The Bleeding Obvious
-
 VS 4c 2
30 Liv n' Lil HS 4b 2
31 The Strumpet Major
-
 MVS 4b 3
Climb name Grade
  Sporadic Walls
33 Quarry Hill 6a 19
34 Queenie's Castle 6a 24
35 Fair to Middling 5a 23
36 My Funny Valentine 6a+ 12
37 Heavy Sesions 6a+ 7
38 Stress Management 5a 14
39 Making the Grade 6b+ 4
40 Mildred 6b 21
41 Judge Dread 6b 19
42 Mordred 6b 23
  The Soft Centre
44 Myth and Magic 6a+ 29
45 Just an Uther Route 6a 26
46 Guinevere 5a 43
47 Groovy Granddad 5a 62
48 A Winters Tale 5c * 85
49 Avalon 6c * 32
50 Joust in Time 6a+ 37
51 Sir Lunchalot 5c * 84
52 Arthurian Ledge End 6a * 92
53 The King of the Castle 6c * 45
54 Camelot 6a ** 132
55 The Quest 6b * 62
56 Knights of Old 6a * 55
57 Chastity Belt 6a 12
58 Thieving Magpies 5b * 87
59 Merlin 5c * 93
60 Excalibur 6a 54
61 Foxes Wall 6b+ * 47
62 Economical Route One 6b ** 69
63 Economical Route Two 6c * 47
Climb name Grade
64 Credit Crunch 6c * 27
65 Stoatal Recall 5c 58
66 Think Mink 6a+ * 8
67 Weasel Crack 5a 60
68 Icing on the cake 6a+ * 25
69 Ferreting Around 6a+ * 56
70 Four Candles 6b ** 71
71 Birthday Girl Left hand 6a * 97
72 Party Pooper 6b * 60
73 Birthday Girl right hand 6a * 71
74 Party Trick 5c 32
75 Pass the Parcel 4c 42
76 Postman's Knock 5a 38
77 Gate Crasher 6b 2
78 One for the Road 6a+ 2
79 Third Party 4b 12
80 Partisan 6a 8
  Overhanging Buttress
82 Dopey 6a+ 17
83 Stumpy 6b+ 8
84 Trophy Hunter 6b+ 5
85 Arch Tempter 6c * 9
86 Do Not Go Gentle 7a+ 1
87 Something Wicked 7a * 14
88 Slapping Beauty 7a ** 39
89 Burly in Ribblesdale 6c ** 39
90 A Power Of Good 7b *** 23
91 Lazarus 7b * 8
92 Bucket Symphony 7a *** 55
93 Space Monkey 7a+ ** 14
94 Maintain The Peep 7c+ * 1
95 Finger Nabber 6c+ 1

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