Climbs 166
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

What was that about 3 points of contact....? © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from www.javu.co.uk and www.rustypeg.co.uk. This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Approach notes

Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.

Access Advice

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematical as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Forrest Gump and Karmacoma have been re-climbed after the rockfall. Grades unchanged and rock is stable.
Kafoozalem - 20/Aug/15
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14
Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14
https://vimeo.com/49613643 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12
I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12
I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09
Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay Attention - 06/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper & Lower Ranger Buttresses
2 Laugharne
-
HS  
3 Cruise of a lifetime
-
HVS 5a  
4 Ancient Eyes E1 5b 1
5 Bus Stop S 2
6 Asante Sana VD 2
7 Jewel
-
HS 1
8 Silver Cufflinks VD 1
9 Katalyn
-
VS  
10 Leavitt
-
HVS 5a  
11 The Ultimate Postcard
-
HVS 5a  
12 Meditations
-
HS 1
13 Clapier-dans-fils
-
S  
14 Mulinos
-
VS  
15 Tulang Kecil
-
HS  
16 Oje E2 5b 1
17 Legin
-
HVS 5a  
18 Casablanca E2 5b * 1
19 Carreg
-
VS  
20 Dzirnavas
-
HVS 5a 1
21 Sai Qot
-
S  
22 Balta Maja
-
HS  
  Oz Wall
24 Oz Wall Traverse 6b+ *** 122
25 Lucid 6b+ 9
26 The Groovy Gang 6c ** 9
27 Hanging Rib HVS 5b  
28 Over the Rainbow E3 5b * 1
29 Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eau VS 5a 2
30 Pommie Granite
-
E4 6b * 1
31 Down With His Pants VS 4c 2
32 Boulder dash HVS 5a  
33 New Paths
-
E4 6b **  
34 Assana HVS 5a  
35 Oz Court E2 5b * 1
36 Wizard E2 5b  
37 Mrs Joshua 6b+ * 5
38 Spunk's in the Bin 6b 5
39 The Missing Link 7b+ ** 4
40 Taipan Oooh Taipan 7a+ ** 8
41 Cavewoman 6c *** 101
42 Cavewoman In and Out 6c *** 23
43 Cavewoman Roof 6b+ * 3
44 Whizz of a Wiz 6c ** 1
  White Rhino Buttress
46 Barnacle Continuation Traverse 6b ** 48
47 Edge of the Jungle 4a * 79
48 Humanize 6a+ * 94
49 Are We Human? 6b 8
50 Jose Sandeles 6c+ * 42
51 White Rhino Tea 7a *** 209
52 Watting Yer Ouzel 6c+ * 56
53 Crossing the Tea 7a * 12
54 Pink Roadster 7a *** 85
55 Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema 6c * 35
56 Hymenopteran Hippopotamus 6c+ * 5
57 Pickled XS 6a  
58 Relay 5a 2
59 Karmacoma 6a * 5
60 Forrest Gump 6a+ ** 2
61 Barnacle Traverse 5c ** 35
  Red Wall Area
63 Pathos
-
HVS 5b 2
64 Neanderthal HVD 3
65 Easy Wall D 3
66 Long Overdue HVS 5a 2
67 Hot Lips
-
E1 5c 3
68 Oggie
-
HVD 7
69 Cod HVS 4c 11
70 Cod Direct 6b+ * 5
71 Abbot's Way HVS 5a ** 74
72 Abbot's Wall
-
S 4a 45
73 Binky HS 4b ** 89
74 Bonky 6a+ * 4
75 Chastity Corner VS 4b * 67
76 Celibate Arete 6a+ * 1
77 Oh Brother! E2 5c * 6
78 Red Monk VS 4b 3
79 Senex E1 5b 9
80 Veins E2 5c 9
81 Blood E1 5b ** 117
82 Uparoundup
-
VS 4c  
83 Archery E1 5b 10
84 Jellyfish VS 4c 15
85 Ruddigore HS 4a 37
86 Red Crack
-
HS 4a 85
87 Ruddy Corner HVD 17
88 Captain Scarlet E2 5b 4
89 Killer Queen
-
E5 6b ** 4
90 Captain's Corner
-
VS 4c 10
91 Lewtenant Fosscake
-
HVS 5a  
92 Izitso HVS 5a 38
93 Admiral of the Line E1 5b * 5
94 Raw Umber E4 5c 7
95 Three Dozen Valium E5 6a * 4
96 Photo Thirty-Six
-
E4 6a 1
97 Evening Buttress
-
VD 8
98 Jennie's evening M 1
99 Evening Arete VD 10
100 Mini Traverse 6a * 2
101 Mini Arete 5b * 3
102 Corker 6c+ * 3
  Western Shelf
104 Memories V1 5b * 3
  Swashbuckler Area
106 Walking the Plank 5a * 11
107 Sirocco 3+ 4
108 Mistral 3 4
109 Broadside 3+ 5
110 Woe -is-uh-me-bop 6a+ ** 4
111 Diddy Wah Diddy 6a * 1
112 Squall 3+ * 7
113 John Smith 4c 1
114 Die by the Sword E2 5c 2
115 Swashbuckler S 4a * 15
116 Blood & Sand E3 5c * 3
117 Gunga Din 6a * 5
118 Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.
-
HVS 4c 1
119 Piracy Direct Finish 5a * 3
120 Piracy 3+ * 7
121 Guided 6a * 2
122 Jim Jam 4c ** 8
123 Perfect Day 5a * 5
124 Faded 3+ 2
  Cloudburst Buttress
126 Hidden Groove VS 4b * 7
127 Earthbound Mystic 5a 3
128 Scar Face 5a 1
129 Cloudburst 4c ** 9
130 That Riveria Touch 6a+ * 2
131 Calcite Diamond E3 5c ** 6
132 T - Mac 5c 4
133 Rocky Rocks 4a 6
  Easy Buttress
135 Don't see Slater 3 2
136 He hadn't the heart for it 2+ 2
137 Must dash 2 2
138 Chicken and Egg 2 2
139 Higgs Boson 4a * 2
140 Reptilian Brain 3+ 2
141 The older I get, the better I was 2+ * 5
142 I'm not me! 2+ 2
143 Easy like Sunday Morning 3+ 2
144 Partial Recall 2+ 3
145 Nice day at work Brian? 4c 1
  Eastern Shelf
147 Hope Street
-
HS 4b *  
  Living Zawn
149 Lick My Decals off Baby 5c 5
150 Buggie Boogie Woogie 6a ** 5
151 Living Zawn 6b ** 3
152 Holy Mackerel 6c ** 3
  Hidden Zawn
154 Route 1 2 3
155 Ray Zazorn 4a 5
156 Tied Line 6a 2
157 Placebo 4c * 3
158 Meds 4a 1
159 Sealed 4a 1
160 Thursday Rib S 3
161 Thursday Corner
-
HVD 1
162 Zipper
-
E1 5b  
163 Schizophrenia HS 4b  
164 Fine Little Hands
-
HVS 5a 1
165 Little Heart
-
E1 5b 1
166 Gugu Wack
-
HVS 4c  
167 Sun's Rays E1 5a 2
168 Flying Fifteen E1 5a * 5
169 FRB
-
HVS 5a  
170 Frosty Jack's E1 5a 2
171 Blind Pew E4 6a 2
172 Crystal Corner D 2
173 Little Red Book
-
E3 5c * 2
174 Captain Flint
-
E1 5a 1
175 Hawkin's Climb HS 4a ** 4
176 Early Doors HVS 5a * 2
177 Rum Truffle
-
HVS 5a  

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