Climbs 166
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

What was that about 3 points of contact....? © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from www.javu.co.uk and www.rustypeg.co.uk. This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Approach notes

Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.

Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre before starting. In 2009 climbers have caused a number of false call outs - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve. Brixham MRCC - (01803) 882 704

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematical as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Forrest Gump and Karmacoma have been re-climbed after the rockfall. Grades unchanged and rock is stable.
Kafoozalem - 20/Aug/15
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14
Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14
https://vimeo.com/49613643 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12
I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12
I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09
Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay Attention - 06/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Upper & Lower Ranger Buttresses 
2Laugharne
-
HS  
3Cruise of a lifetime
-
HVS 5a  
4Ancient EyesE1 5b 1
5Bus StopS 2
6Asante SanaVD 2
7Jewel
-
HS 1
8Silver CufflinksVD 1
9Katalyn
-
VS  
10Leavitt
-
HVS 5a  
11The Ultimate Postcard
-
HVS 5a  
12Meditations
-
HS 1
13Clapier-dans-fils
-
S  
14Mulinos
-
VS  
15Tulang Kecil
-
HS  
16OjeE2 5b 1
17Legin
-
HVS 5a  
18CasablancaE2 5b *1
19Carreg
-
VS  
20Dzirnavas
-
HVS 5a 1
21Sai Qot
-
S  
22Balta Maja
-
HS  
 Oz Wall 
24Oz Wall Traverse6b+ ***106
25Lucid6b+ 9
26The Groovy Gang6c **8
27Hanging RibHVS 5b  
28Over the RainbowE3 5b *1
29Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eauVS 5a 2
30Pommie Granite
-
E4 6b *1
31Down With His PantsVS 4c 2
32Boulder dashHVS 5a  
33New Paths
-
E4 6b ** 
34AssanaHVS 5a  
35Oz CourtE2 5b *1
36WizardE2 5b  
37Mrs Joshua6b+ *4
38Spunk's in the Bin6b 4
39The Missing Link7b+ **3
40Taipan Oooh Taipan7a+ **7
41Cavewoman6c ***90
42Cavewoman In and Out6c ***20
43Cavewoman Roof6b+ *2
44Whizz of a Wiz6c ** 
 White Rhino Buttress 
46Barnacle Continuation Traverse6b **44
47Edge of the Jungle4a *75
48Humanize6a+ *91
49Are We Human?6b 7
50Jose Sandeles6c+ *37
51White Rhino Tea7a ***152
52Watting Yer Ouzel6c+ *53
53Crossing the Tea7a *11
54Pink Roadster7a ***72
55Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema6c *31
56Hymenopteran Hippopotamus6c+ *5
57PickledXS 6a  
58Relay5a 2
59Karmacoma6a *5
60Forrest Gump6a+ **2
61Barnacle Traverse5c **34
 Red Wall Area 
63Pathos
-
HVS 5b 2
64NeanderthalHVD 3
65Easy WallD 3
66Long OverdueHVS 5a 2
67Hot Lips
-
E1 5c 3
68Oggie
-
HVD 7
69CodHVS 4c 11
70Cod Direct6b+ *5
71Abbot's WayHVS 5a **65
72Abbot's Wall
-
S 4a 44
73BinkyHS 4b **89
74Bonky6a+ *4
75Chastity CornerVS 4b *56
76Celibate Arete6a+ *1
77Oh Brother!E2 5c *6
78Red MonkVS 4b 3
79SenexE1 5b 5
80VeinsE2 5c 9
81BloodE1 5b **113
82Uparoundup
-
VS 4c  
83ArcheryE1 5b 10
84JellyfishVS 4c 15
85RuddigoreHS 4a 37
86Red Crack
-
HS 4a 82
87Ruddy CornerHVD 17
88Captain ScarletE2 5b 4
89Killer Queen
-
E5 6b **4
90Captain's Corner
-
VS 4c 10
91Lewtenant Fosscake
-
HVS 5a  
92IzitsoHVS 5a 37
93Admiral of the LineE1 5b *5
94Raw UmberE4 5c 7
95Three Dozen ValiumE5 6a *4
96Photo Thirty-Six
-
E4 6a 1
97Evening Buttress
-
VD 8
98Jennie's eveningM 1
99Evening AreteVD 10
100Mini Traverse6a *2
101Mini Arete5b *3
102Corker6c+ *3
 Western Shelf 
104MemoriesV1 *3
 Swashbuckler Area 
106Walking the Plank5a *11
107Sirocco3+ 4
108Mistral3 4
109Broadside3+ 5
110Woe -is-uh-me-bop6a+ **4
111Diddy Wah Diddy6a *1
112Squall3+ *7
113John Smith4c 1
114Die by the SwordE2 5c 2
115SwashbucklerS 4a *15
116Blood & SandE3 5c *3
117Gunga Din6a *5
118Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.
-
HVS 4c 1
119Piracy Direct Finish5a *3
120Piracy3+ *7
121Guided6a *2
122Jim Jam4c **8
123Perfect Day5a *5
124Faded3+ 2
 Cloudburst Buttress 
126Hidden GrooveVS 4b *7
127Earthbound Mystic5a 3
128Scar Face5a 1
129Cloudburst4c **9
130That Riveria Touch6a+ *2
131Calcite DiamondE3 5c **6
132T - Mac5c 4
133Rocky Rocks4a 6
 Easy Buttress 
135Don't see Slater3 2
136He hadn't the heart for it2+ 2
137Must dash2 2
138Chicken and Egg2 2
139Higgs Boson4a *2
140Reptilian Brain3+ 2
141The older I get, the better I was2+ *5
142I'm not me!2+ 2
143Easy like Sunday Morning3+ 2
144Partial Recall2+ 3
145Nice day at work Brian?4c 1
 Eastern Shelf 
147Hope Street
-
HS 4b * 
 Living Zawn 
149Lick My Decals off Baby5c 5
150Buggie Boogie Woogie6a **5
151Living Zawn6b **3
152Holy Mackerel6c **3
 Hidden Zawn 
154Route 12 3
155Ray Zazorn4a 5
156Tied Line6a 2
157Placebo4c *3
158Meds4a 1
159Sealed4a 1
160Thursday RibS 3
161Thursday Corner
-
HVD 1
162Zipper
-
E1 5b  
163SchizophreniaHS 4b  
164Fine Little Hands
-
HVS 5a 1
165Little Heart
-
E1 5b 1
166Gugu Wack
-
HVS 4c  
167Sun's RaysE1 5a 2
168Flying FifteenE1 5a *5
169FRB
-
HVS 5a  
170Frosty Jack'sE1 5a 2
171Blind PewE4 6a 2
172Crystal CornerD 2
173Little Red Book
-
E3 5c *2
174Captain Flint
-
E1 5a 1
175Hawkin's ClimbHS 4a **4
176Early DoorsHVS 5a *2
177Rum Truffle
-
HVS 5a  

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