Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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What was that about 3 points of contact....? © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Sheltered south facing sun trap with a mixture of tidal and non tidal climbing.

Three star DWS venue ... White Rhino Tea (F7a), Pink Roadster (F7a) and Oz Wall Traverse (F6b+). (nb. all bird banned Mar 1 to July 31). Dave Henderson's website has excellent miniguides to the DWS here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DWS/DWS-contents.shtml

Classic trad ... Chastity Corner (HS 4a), Hawkin's Climb (HS 4a), Abbot's Way (HVS 5a) and Blood (E1 5b).

There is first class easy DWS at Coastguard East. A free pdf guide is available from www.javu.co.uk and www.rustypeg.co.uk. This area is not bird banned so the DWS season can start earlier here.

Check the gallery for various uploaded topo's

Approach notes

Bird ban March 1 - July 31 (£1000 fine!) on some parts of this cliff ie. White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation), the Oz Wall, the Ledges above the Oz wall including Lower and Upper Ranger Buttresses and Terminal Zawn. nb. the start date is now earlier than that published in the 1995 South Devon & Dartmoor Guide.

Red walls, Western Shelf and Eastern Shelf are always open for climbing.

Parking as for Berry Head Quarry.

Take the descent path 100m past the cafe in the Northern Redoubt.

Check the photo gallery for topo's giving detailed approach notes.

Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Forrest Gump and Karmacoma have been re-climbed after the rockfall. Grades unchanged and rock is stable.
Kafoozalem - 20/Aug/15
Barnacle Traverse has never been banned as long as you top out before the White Rhino Tea Buttress (ie. the original finish. Barnacle Traverse Continuation is banned since it lies below White Rhino Tea. Forrest Gump and Karmacoma are not banned but appear to have suffered rockfall this winter and so need reclimbing.
Kafoozalem - 26/Jun/14
Hi, now that Barnacle Traverse is not bird banned is this the same for the climbs around Forrest Gump?
Mr Tickle - 25/Jun/14
https://vimeo.com/49613643 Video of our short trip down here.
Stanners - 23/Sep/12
I'm struggling to find the lines Living Zawn, Holy Mackerel, Tied Line and Placebo. Are they in the narrow overhanging zawn towards the Eastern Shelf? If they are i'm really struggling to pick out which lines they take, could anyone enlighten me?
Mr Tickle - 19/May/12
I have added photo topo's to the picture gallery which should explain all.
Kafoozalem - 16/Nov/09
Is there a sketch map anywhere to show how to get down to the Oz Buttress? Spent a futile couple of hours walking back and forth to try to find flat topped white rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
Pay Attention - 06/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper and Lower Ranger Buttresses
2 Laugharne
-
HS  
3 Cruise of a lifetime
-
HVS 5a  
4 Ancient Eyes E1 5b 1
5 Bus Stop S 2
6 Asante Sana VD 2
7 Jewel
-
HS 1
8 Silver Cufflinks VD 1
9 Katalyn
-
VS  
10 Leavitt
-
HVS 5a  
11 The Ultimate Postcard
-
HVS 5a  
12 Meditations
-
HS 1
13 Clapier-dans-fils
-
S  
14 Mulinos
-
VS 2
15 Tulang Kecil
-
HS  
16 Oje E2 5b 1
17 Legin
-
HVS 5a  
18 Casablanca E2 5b * 1
19 Carreg
-
VS  
20 Dzirnavas
-
HVS 5a 1
21 Sai Qot
-
S 2
22 Balta Maja
-
HS  
  Oz Wall
24 Oz Wall Traverse 6b+ *** 142
25 Lucid 6b+ 10
26 The Groovy Gang 6c ** 9
27 Hanging Rib HVS 5b  
28 Over the Rainbow E3 5b * 1
29 Follow the Yellow Gouettes-d'eau VS 5a 2
30 Pommie Granite
-
E4 6b * 1
31 Down With His Pants VS 4c 2
32 Boulder dash HVS 5a  
33 New Paths
-
E4 6b **  
34 Assana HVS 5a  
35 Oz Court E2 5b * 1
36 Wizard E2 5b  
37 Mrs Joshua 6b+ * 8
38 Spunk's in the Bin 6b 5
39 The Missing Link 7b+ ** 4
40 Taipan Oooh Taipan 7a+ ** 13
41 Cavewoman 6c *** 123
42 Cavewoman Roof 6b+ * 3
43 Whizz of a Wiz 6c ** 26
  White Rhino Buttress
45 Barnacle Continuation Traverse 6b ** 54
46 Edge of the Jungle 4a * 85
47 Humanize 6a+ * 108
48 Are We Human? 6b 8
49 Jose Sandeles 6c+ * 51
50 White Rhino Tea 7a *** 196
51 Watting Yer Ouzel 6c+ * 63
52 Crossing the Tea 7a * 14
53 Pink Roadster 7a *** 96
54 Whoomze Got der Keys to me Beema 6c * 41
55 Hymenopteran Hippopotamus 6c+ * 5
56 Pickled XS 6a  
57 Relay 5a 3
58 Karmacoma 6a * 6
59 Forrest Gump 6a+ ** 3
60 Barnacle Traverse 5c ** 40
  Red Wall Area
62 Pathos
-
HVS 5b 2
63 Neanderthal HVD 3
64 Easy Wall D 5
Climb name Grade
65 Long Overdue HVS 5a 2
66 Hot Lips
-
E1 5c 3
67 Oggie
-
HVD 8
68 Cod HVS 4c 11
69 Cod Direct 6b+ * 5
70 Abbot's Way HVS 5a ** 81
71 Abbot's Wall
-
S 4a 49
72 Binky HS 4b ** 109
73 Bonky 6a+ * 4
74 Chastity Corner VS 4b * 76
75 Celibate Arete 6a+ * 1
76 Oh Brother! E2 5c * 6
77 Red Monk VS 4b 3
78 Senex E1 5b 8
79 Veins E2 5c 10
80 Blood E1 5b ** 130
81 Uparoundup
-
VS 4c  
82 Artery HVS 5b 15
83 Jellyfish VS 4c 26
84 Ruddigore HS 4a 53
85 Red Crack
-
HS 4a 101
86 Ruddy Corner HVD 21
87 Captain Scarlet E2 5b 4
88 Killer Queen
-
E5 6b ** 2
89 Captain's Corner
-
VS 4c 11
90 Lewtenant Fosscake
-
HVS 5a  
91 Izitso HVS 5a 49
92 Admiral of the Line E1 5b * 5
93 Raw Umber E4 5c 7
94 Three Dozen Valium E6 6a * 4
95 Photo Thirty-Six
-
E4 6a 1
96 Evening Buttress
-
VD 9
97 Jennie's evening M 1
98 Evening Arete VD 12
99 Mini Traverse 6a * 5
100 Mini Arete 5b * 4
101 Corker 6c+ * 4
  Western Shelf
103 Memories V1 5b * 3
  Swashbuckler Area
105 Walking the Plank 5a * 13
106 Sirocco 3c 7
107 Mistral 3a 6
108 Broadside 3c 5
109 Woe -is-uh-me-bop 6a+ ** 5
110 Diddy Wah Diddy 6a * 1
111 Squall 3c * 7
112 John Smith 4c 1
113 Die by the Sword E2 5c 2
114 Swashbuckler S 4a * 17
115 Blood & Sand E3 5c * 3
116 Gunga Din 6a * 5
117 Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.
-
HVS 4c 1
118 Piracy Direct Finish 5a * 3
119 Piracy 3c * 7
120 Guided 6a * 2
121 Jim Jam 4c ** 10
122 Perfect Day 5a * 5
123 Faded 3c 2
124 Patchwork 3b 1
125 Long John Silver 4c * 1
  Cloudburst Buttress
127 Hidden Groove VS 4b * 7
128 Earthbound Mystic 5a 4
Climb name Grade
129 Scar Face 5a 1
130 Cloudburst 4c ** 9
131 Cloudburst Right Hand 5c * 1
132 Wet and Dry 6a+ 1
133 That Riveria Touch 6a+ * 2
134 Calcite Diamond E3 5c ** 6
135 Mataeus 4c 1
136 T - Mac 5c 5
137 Roots Manuva 4c 2
138 Rocky Rocks 4a 7
139 Teemin 2b 1
  Easy Buttress
141 Anteak 2a 1
142 Squirm Hole S  
143 Peasy Crack 2b 1
144 Don't see Slater 3a 2
145 He hadn't the heart for it 2c 3
146 Must dash 2a 2
147 Chicken and Egg 2a 3
148 Higgs Boson 4a * 3
149 Reptilian Brain 3c 3
150 The older I get, the better I was 2c * 6
151 I'm not me! 2c 2
152 Easy like Sunday Morning 3c 3
153 Partial Recall 2c 3
154 Nice day at work Brian? 4c 1
  Eastern Shelf
156 Hope Street HS 4b * 1
  Living Zawn
158 Lick My Decals off Baby 5c 5
159 Buggie Boogie Woogie 6a ** 6
160 Living Zawn 6b ** 3
161 Holy Mackerel 6c ** 3
162 Dark Light HS 4a  
163 Daylight 4c 1
164 Break Out HS 4b 1
165 Day Break 4c 1
  Hidden Zawn
167 Route 1 2a 4
168 Ray Zazorn 4a 6
169 Tied Line 6a 2
170 Placebo 4c * 4
171 Meds 4a 1
172 Sealed 4a 1
173 Thursday Rib S 3
174 Thursday Corner
-
HVD 1
175 Zipper
-
E1 5b  
176 Schizophrenia HS 4b  
177 Fine Little Hands
-
HVS 5a 1
178 Little Heart
-
E1 5b 1
179 Gugu Wack
-
HVS 4c  
180 Sun's Rays E1 5a 2
181 Flying Fifteen E1 5a * 5
182 FRB
-
HVS 5a  
183 Frosty Jack's E1 5a 2
184 Blind Pew E4 6a 2
185 Crystal Corner D 6
186 Little Red Book
-
E3 5c * 2
187 Captain Flint
-
E1 5a 3
188 Hawkin's Climb HS 4a ** 5
189 Early Doors HVS 5a * 2
190 Rum Truffle
-
HVS 5a  

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