Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone

Eglwyseg Escarpment - from above the Horseshoe Pass before the rain came back © richprideaux

Crag features

The Twilight Zone is the collective name for two small, interesting limestone buttresses in close vicinity of each other. Some of the best quality limestone in the Eglwyseg valley can be found here, with everything from smooth slabs to wild roof climbing.

Approach notes

The crags can be found near the second tributary
valley down from World's End Crag. Coming from Llangollen, just over the humpback bridge near Plas yn Eglwyseg farm the road bends sharply right, and a few metres up the road after the bend there are some small pull-ins on the right. Park here, or further up the road on the lay-by to the left. Walk back over the bridge to where a sign for a public footpath can be found. Walk up the field to its left to where the woods start. Fight your way through the woods until you come to a fence; surmount this, and soon the crags will be in full view in front of you.

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
A great crag, with stupendous views across the valley. Some superb quality rock on the routes, but quite loose up top - helmets recommended. Building a belay at the base of the climbs isn't the worst idea - not somewhere you'd want to be falling off and dragging your belayer down the hill!
Otis - 24/Aug/14
Went there yesterday. Nice, unbusy (we only saw one other group all day) mountain crag. Some great rock, but some loose stuff too!
lemon - 13/Jul/09
Not a fun place, approach chossy, base of crags reasonably steep grass, descents iffy due to steep slippy grass. Wont be returning.
Nige G - 27/Oct/05
A better description of the approach is 'cross the stile and stream behind the house and head diagonally left uphill across the field passed a marker post to a stile and gate on the north edge of the wood. Follow the track along the side of the wood and the path up the valley towards the crags'
rod pirie - 06/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Twilight Tower Buttress
2 Dinner in Potsdam VD  
3 Fraggle Rock HVS 5a  
4 Breaker HVS 5b  
5 Hungover HVS 5b  
6 On Line S 4a 45
7 Extension VS 4c 10
8 Funeral Corner HS 4a ** 151
9 Inter Digital Pause HVS 5a 5
10 Penetration Factor VS 4c * 44
11 Sidestep HVS 4c 1
12 Ruth's Ramble VD 37
13 Loran S 4a * 76
14 Hell Drivers 7a+  
15 Sunday Driver VS 4c * 28
16 Wood Pigeon Crack HS 4a 12
17 Goin' to a Go Go 7b+ **  
18 Going to a Go Go 7b+ *  
19 Go-a-Go-Go E2 5b ** 4
20 High Impedance E2 5c * 7
21 Attenuation VS 4c 8
22 Moncrieff VD 4
23 Ivy Tower Chimney VD 5
24 Cow Parsley VD 12
25 Skullion VS 4b * 49
26 The Clearout VS 4b 1
27 Helme's Highway S 4a 32
28 Eclipse HVS 5a 19
29 Onegin S 4a 9
30 To Cut a Long Story Short VS 4c 14
31 Pride VD 71
32 Prejudice D 37
33 Flawse VD 18
34 Sloth VD * 79
35 Spider crack S 4a 1
  Lower Tier
37 Pinnacle Crack HVD 14
38 Interface VS 4b 1
39 Riboflavin S 4a 6
40 Open to Offa's VD 4
41 Terminal VS 4c  
  Twilight Gully
43 Charlie's Podium 5a 3
44 Spiderpig 6b+ 4
45 Disappear 7a+ 1
46 Manakin 7a+ *  
47 Puppet Symphony 7b+  
48 Bolt in the Snow E2 5b 1
49 The Muppet Show 6c  
50 Jabberwocky E2 5b  
  Bitter Entry Area
52 Shadow E3 6a  
53 Silhouette 6c+  
54 Caricature 6c+ *  
55 Slim Faster 6c 1
56 Crash Diet 6c+ *  
57 Calorie Control 7a *  
58 Hungry Days E3 5c *  
59 Bitter Ender E1 5b * 6
60 Bitter Entry E2 5c ** 3
61 Lemon Entry E3 5c *  
62 Forced Entry E3 5c ** 1
63 Tizer the Surpriser HVS 5a  
64 Central Groove HS 4b 11
65 The Pancake HS 4b 10
66 Unbladed E2 5b  
67 Starting Block HVS 4c 5
68 Race Riot HVS 5a * 10
69 Twilight Chimney HS 4b * 15
70 Jittering Tower E1 5a 1
  No Grips Area
72 Frejus HVD 5
73 Agay S 4a 15
74 Antibes VS 4b 10
75 Running Wild HVS 5a 2
76 Volenti S 4a 29
77 The Gift S 4a 21
78 Zilla VD 27
79 Frolic VS 4a 3
80 Roots VS 4c 10
81 No Grips E2 5b * 7
82 A New Bend in My Arm E1 5b 2
83 Missing Link VS 4b 8
84 The Last Fling VS 4a 1
85 Continental Chocs VS 4b 7
86 Pagoda HVS 5a 4
87 Rising Champ HVD 6
88 Misty Dawn S 4a * 39
89 Tock Tick E4 6b  
90 Tick Tock E3 5c  
91 Shakin' Stevens VS 4b 1
92 Get a Grip of Yourself E2 5b  
93 Happy Valley VS 4b * 36
94 Rock Special E3 5c *  
95 Howling E1 5b * 3
96 Ten Percent Special E2 5c * 3
97 Masungi HS 4b 11
98 The Avenger VS 4b 4
  Tiger Awaits Area
100 The Land of Fairies E1 5b 1
101 Pitmungo S 4a 10
102 Ch√Ęteau VS 4a 4
103 Unite S 4a 12
104 H Block E1 5a 1
105 Bay of Pigs E1 5b * 1
106 The Tiger Awaits E2 5b * 1
107 The Heist VS 4c 2
108 Stay Alert Malcolm HVS 5a * 6
109 Hyper Medius Meets Little Finger E3 5c * 1
110 Little Fingers VS 4c  
111 Thumberline E3 6a  
112 Fingerbobs E4 6a *  
  Upper Crag
114 Constantinople 6a 2
115 Christiana 6b  
116 Copenhagen 6a+ 1
117 Bunter 6c+ 1
118 Balling 6b 1
119 Crumples 5b 3
120 Trending 6b 1
121 Tweeting 6a+ 1
122 Old Timer
-
VS 5a  
123 Orange Time
-
VS 4c  
124 Home Time
-
E1 5b *  
125 Fine Time
-
VS 4b  
126 Snow Flake VS 4c 2

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