Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone

Eglwyseg Escarpment - from above the Horseshoe Pass before the rain came back © richprideaux

Crag features

The Twilight Zone is the collective name for two small, interesting limestone buttresses in close vicinity of each other. Some of the best quality limestone in the Eglwyseg valley can be found here, with everything from smooth slabs to wild roof climbing.

Approach notes

The crags can be found near the second tributary
valley down from World's End Crag. Coming from Llangollen, just over the humpback bridge near Plas yn Eglwyseg farm the road bends sharply right, and a few metres up the road after the bend there are some small pull-ins on the right. Park here, or further up the road on the lay-by to the left. Walk back over the bridge to where a sign for a public footpath can be found. Walk up the field to its left to where the woods start. Fight your way through the woods until you come to a fence; surmount this, and soon the crags will be in full view in front of you.

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Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks: (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
A great crag, with stupendous views across the valley. Some superb quality rock on the routes, but quite loose up top - helmets recommended. Building a belay at the base of the climbs isn't the worst idea - not somewhere you'd want to be falling off and dragging your belayer down the hill!
Otis - 24/Aug/14
Went there yesterday. Nice, unbusy (we only saw one other group all day) mountain crag. Some great rock, but some loose stuff too!
lemon - 13/Jul/09
Not a fun place, approach chossy, base of crags reasonably steep grass, descents iffy due to steep slippy grass. Wont be returning.
Nige G - 27/Oct/05
A better description of the approach is 'cross the stile and stream behind the house and head diagonally left uphill across the field passed a marker post to a stile and gate on the north edge of the wood. Follow the track along the side of the wood and the path up the valley towards the crags'
rod pirie - 06/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Twilight Tower Buttress 
2Dinner in PotsdamVD  
3Fraggle RockHVS 5a  
4BreakerHVS 5b  
5HungoverHVS 5b  
6On LineS 4a 39
7ExtensionVS 4c 8
8Funeral CornerHS 4a **145
9Inter Digital PauseHVS 5a 2
10Penetration FactorVS 4c *40
11SidestepHVS 4c 1
12Ruth's RambleVD 35
13LoranS 4a *73
14Hell Drivers7a+  
15Sunday DriverVS 4c *26
16Wood Pigeon CrackHS 4a 12
17Goin' to a Go Go7b+ ** 
18Going to a Go Go7b+ * 
19Go-a-Go-GoE2 5b **4
20High ImpedanceE2 5c *7
21AttenuationVS 4c 7
22MoncrieffVD 4
23Ivy Tower ChimneyVD 3
24Cow ParsleyVD 10
25SkullionVS 4b *43
26The ClearoutVS 4b 1
27Helme's HighwayS 4a 32
28EclipseHVS 5a 18
29OneginS 4a 8
30To Cut a Long Story ShortVS 4c 13
31PrideVD 69
32PrejudiceD 33
33FlawseVD 16
34SlothVD *77
 Lower Tier 
36Pinnacle CrackHVD 14
37InterfaceVS 4b 1
38RiboflavinS 4a 6
39Open to Offa'sVD 4
40TerminalVS 4c  
 Twilight Gully 
42Charlie's Podium5a 3
43Spiderpig6b+ 4
44Disappear7a+ 1
45Manakin7a+ * 
46Puppet Symphony7b+  
47Bolt in the SnowE2 5b 1
48The Muppet Show6c  
49JabberwockyE2 5b  
 Bitter Entry Area 
51ShadowE3 6a  
53Caricature6c+ * 
54Slim Faster6c 1
55Crash Diet6c+ * 
56Calorie Control7a * 
57Hungry DaysE3 5c * 
58Bitter EnderE1 5b *5
59Bitter EntryE2 5c **2
60Lemon EntryE3 5c * 
61Forced EntryE3 5c **1
62Tizer the SurpriserHVS 5a  
63Central GrooveHS 4b 11
64The PancakeHS 4b 10
65UnbladedE2 5b  
66Starting BlockHVS 4c 5
67Race RiotHVS 5a *10
68Twilight ChimneyHS 4b *15
69Jittering TowerE1 5a 1
 No Grips Area 
71FrejusHVD 5
72AgayS 4a 15
73AntibesVS 4b 10
74Running WildHVS 5a 2
75VolentiS 4a 28
76The GiftS 4a 20
77ZillaVD 27
78FrolicVS 4a 2
79RootsVS 4c 9
80No GripsE2 5b *7
81A New Bend in My ArmE1 5b 2
82Missing LinkVS 4b 8
83The Last FlingVS 4a 1
84Continental ChocsVS 4b 7
85PagodaHVS 5a 4
86Rising ChampHVD 6
87Misty DawnS 4a *35
88Tock TickE4 6b  
89Tick TockE3 5c  
90Shakin' StevensVS 4b 1
91Get a Grip of YourselfE2 5b  
92Happy ValleyVS 4b *34
93Rock SpecialE3 5c * 
94HowlingE1 5b *1
95Ten Percent SpecialE2 5c *2
96MasungiHS 4b 9
97The AvengerVS 4b 3
 Tiger Awaits Area 
99The Land of FairiesE1 5b 1
100PitmungoS 4a 8
101Ch√ĘteauVS 4a 4
102UniteS 4a 11
103H BlockE1 5a 1
104Bay of PigsE1 5b *1
105The Tiger AwaitsE2 5b *1
106The HeistVS 4c 1
107Stay Alert MalcolmHVS 5a *5
108Hyper Medius Meets Little FingerE3 5c *1
109Little FingersVS 4c  
110ThumberlineE3 6a  
111FingerbobsE4 6a * 
 Upper Crag 
113Constantinople6a 2
115Copenhagen6a+ 1
116Bunter6c+ 1
117Balling6b 1
118Crumples5b 3
119Trending6b 1
120Tweeting6a+ 1
121Old Timer
VS 5a  
122Orange Time
VS 4c  
123Home Time
E1 5b * 
124Fine Time
VS 4b  
125Snow FlakeVS 4c 2

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