Good quality rock of a nondescript, granite-like type. A wealth of routes for such a small outcrop.
From the Chirk direction of the A5, take the B4500 for 8.5 miles to Pandy Village. Turn right at he old chapel on the right just before the bridge, to follow a very narrow lane for half a mile up the river Teriw valley to where the lane opens out at a parking and turning point. Walk back eastwards up a good track for ten minutes which brings you out to the top of the crag.
No known access problems for individual climbers. Parking can be an issue and there is only very limited parking at the base of the track leading to the crag. Consider parking in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.
Update mid April 2018 - it appears that the crag & land, previously owned by Wrexham Council (see the 'Group Use' notes below) has now been sold off by the council, as has the nearby Nantyr Outdoor Education Centre, who acted as a kind of informal local site manager. At the time of writing, the new owners haven't been tracked down, and their views on access & continued use are unknown. These notes will be updated once progress is made on that front.
Last update: 12/07/2018
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This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
Crow spotted nesting today on the cannon arete. Otis - 18/Apr/14
Birds currently nesting on Cannon arete - best avoided till the summer Colin Wells - 18/Apr/14
Once again there are bids nesting in the route Cannon Arete but also several nests within the Cannon Chimney. So, routes to avoid till the end of summer.
Cheers Joss - 19/May/11
cheers for updating this Joss!! We have no issues with private or group climbing, in fact we encourage it! Just need to make sure we dont annoy the other land owners and local residents, so keep on top of the access to the crag and the parking!!
psych! phil stubbs - 22/Feb/11
Please read the updated access notes above. Please respect the wishes of the landowner to keep access relations running smoothly. Joss - 07/Jan/11
2010: The crag is now owned by Nantyr Outdoor Education centre and permission needs to be sought before climbing there. The manager is Steve Mattocks. The Centre would generally be using the crag during week daytimes. Joss - 22/Apr/10
As from 2009 the crag is now owned by Nantyr Outdoor Education centre and permission needs to be sought before climbing there. The manager is Steve Mattocks. The Centre would generally be using the crag during week daytimes. Joss - 21/May/09
hi - this is not true - the landowner does prohibit use dependent on his mood and how narked off he is at the time - especially when he sees clubs using only one anchor point belaying from the top of the crag!! dave thorley - 28/Aug/07
People saying that the landowner prohibits access are confusing this crag with Pandy Quarry-Hendre Quarry, which is further up the valley. Joss - 10/Jan/07