UKC

Climbs 164
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

The Gnome King. © deepstar

Crag features

Quality steep and sound limestone. Very quick drying. Climbing is strenuous, but generally well protected, with quite a few real gems.
Very under starred in the current guide.

Watch out for ticks in the summer.

 

RAVENS NESTING AGAIN ON OCRIST - EAGLE ROCK. PLEASE AVOID CLIMBING THE LEFT SIDE OF EAGLE ROCK ( Trim The Fringe to Route March) UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.

Approach notes


Situated about eight miles SW of Bristol, just beyond the village of Cleeve on the A370. From Bristol, turn east along Cleeve Hill Road just before the Lord Nelson Inn. Carry on for about
400 metres until you reach a small car park by a quarried wall. A small track leads into the Combe itself from a small building to the left of the quarry.

Access Advice

In Nov 2014 the BMC was contacted by Groundworks South who own the main crag, following a helicopter rescue of a climber nearby. Groundworks have advised that they do not formally allow climbing at the site however after several attempts to arrange a meeting to discuss climbing access, nothing has been forthcoming so far. Climbing at Goblin Coombe is not allowed by the landowner, but if climbers do decide to visit the crag and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely.

As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the routes Trim the Fringe to Route March for nesting ravens.

Climbed here for the first time yesterday; excellent little crag with good routes across a wide spectrum of grades. Good gear and superb rock. Will be back soon!
Gabe Oliver - 04/Oct/15
The peg on Moments in Space has now gone. Snapped during a short fall yesterday in wet slippery conditions. It was a rusty old knife blade. Not sure if the placement will take another. Route still protectable but a bit bolder maybe?
Didymus - 31/Jul/15
Currently restoring the overgrown routes. Gremlin Groove and Radagast both now in tip top condition.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Mar/14
Pulled a hold of Mithril a few days ago, it's marginally harder but not enough to change the grade.
remus - 08/Sep/12
Really excellent crag and a much higher quality of climbing than the star distribution would suggest. Though the tick infestation is severe!
Kemics - 21/Jul/12
A reminder to watch out for ticks, I have picked up at least one on three out of four trips here in the last couple of years. Do do a thorough check when you get home!
Bobling - 12/Aug/11
Don't leave anything of value in your car as it has been known for the local scumbags to break in to them for a rummage!
maresia - 29/May/09
Beware of ticks. Nasty little baggers which can quickly turn a day of climbing into chimpanzee level and style of grooming. Make sure you have long sleeves and trousers or a decent repellent. (if they work on ticks!?!)
Piers - 23/Jun/08
Gift Tolkien has a roosting barn owl at the top in cracks in the wall. Maybe think twice about disturbing!!
liz j - 03/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Car-Park Bay
2 Leberkase VD 4a 35
3 Fix The Squeak
-
E3 5c * 32
4 Strong Arm Tactics
-
E3 6a 3
5 The Goblin's Teasmade E2 5b * 61
6 Give us a Break
-
E4 6a 7
7 Peapod
-
HVS 5a 38
8 Edge of Mirkwood
-
HVS 5c 26
9 The Forest Gate VS 4c 19
10 The Gurnjugs
-
E4 6a 1
11 Relief Massage E1 5b 5
12 Nothing to Tolk about * f4 1
  TOOT ROCK
14 Bilbo
-
VS 4b 7
15 Gurt Superb VS 4c 3
16 Toot Sweet
-
HVS 5a 2
17 Blah Blah Blah
-
E2 5c 1
18 Cleve Toot and the Maytals
-
E3 6a 1
19 African Doctor
-
E3 6a 1
20 Peroxide Blonde
-
E5 6b 1
21 That's my Number
-
E4 6a 1
22 Bungo Direct
-
VS 4c 5
  Owl Rock
24 Bombur D 7
25 Owlet VD 19
26 The Gimblies S 4a 19
27 Gremlin Groove HS 4b * 30
28 Bowser's Castle HVS 5a 6
29 Bard the Bowman HS 4b * 584
30 Girion HVS 5b * 8
31 Girion Direct E2 5c 12
32 Girion Direct Superdirect Start
-
E3 6a 2
33 Tolkien Heads E3 6b 2
34 Radagast VS 4c 59
35 The Naked Rambler
-
VS 4c * 8
36 Moments in Space E2 5c 37
37 Elrond VS 4c * 503
38 The Shadow of Mordor E4 5c 2
39 Nazgul E5 6a * 20
40 Shagrat E2 5b 68
41 Precious
-
E2 5c 13
42 Gollum E1 5b * 282
43 The Goblin Queen E3 6a 26
44 Smaug The Dragon E1 5c ** 240
45 Cloak and Dagger E3 5c * 8
46 The Goblin King E2 5c ** 178
47 Peter Jackson's Extra Lines E2 5b  
48 Bullroarer E1 5b 70
49 Mithril E4 6a * 49
50 Mithril Direct Finish E5 6a ** 8
51 Mithril / The Wargs E4 6a ** 8
52 The 'Oh No!' Zone E6 6b 7
53 The Wargs
-
E4 6b ** 34
54 Modern Times E5 6b * 9
55 Gondolin
-
VS 4b * 436
56 The Moves! The Moves!
-
E3 6a 20
57 Gundabad E1 5b * 416
58 Ganjagood HVS 4c * 8
Climb name Grade
59 Necromancer
-
VS 4b * 254
60 Necrophilia E2 5b 9
61 Longbeard HVS 5b 35
62 Treebeard Direct
-
E1 5c * 14
63 Treebeard VS 4c * 276
64 Greybeard (Treebeard variation) VS 4b 74
65 Open Knightly HVS 5a * 30
66 Greybeard (original) HS 4a 15
67 Hordes of the Things
-
E2 5c  
68 Jive Tolkien
-
E5 6b  
  The Obelisk Area
70 Trolls' Chimney HD 14
71 Michael Mullet E3 5c 4
72 Nobalicks E2 6b 5
73 Obelisk Crack
-
S 4a 210
74 Crocker's Office Rocker E1 5c 2
75 Pebbles VS 4c 28
76 Bolg S 4a 422
77 Betwixt and Between VS 4b 11
78 Legolas
-
HVS 5a 208
79 Brandybuck
-
HVS 5a 41
80 Brandybuck Direct. E3 5c 5
81 Legless on Brandy VS 4c 52
82 A Parcel of Small Children VS 5a 1
83 Pearl VD * 68
84 Necklace S 4a 7
  Magic Rock
86 Saving Brian's Privates S 4a 3
87 Your Very Good Elf HS 4a 15
88 Galadriel's Gash D 3
89 Queer Lodgings E1 5b 8
  The Arkenstone
91 Horology Horror
-
VS 4c 2
92 Pippin Variations E1 5c 16
93 Pippin
-
VS 5a 208
94 Skwozed in E3 5c 21
95 Outlands VS 4b 4
96 Disaster Area
-
HVS 5a * 514
97 Disaster Area Variation E2 5c * 26
98 Deo volente E2 5c 23
99 Esgaroth
-
HS 4b * 712
100 Idee Fixe E4 5c 14
101 Too Much Tolkien
-
VD 67
  Orthanc
103 Sometimes Forgotten
-
S 2
104 Sometimes Lost
-
VS 5a 2
105 Sometimes Hidden S 4a 13
106 Hidden Strength, Visible Weakness HVS 5b 3
107 Balin
-
VS 5a 2
108 Dwarfin
-
VS 4c 1
109 Dain S 4a 161
110 Saruman
-
HS 4b 181
111 Gandalf HVS 5a * 190
112 The Clockwork Fingerflake E1 5b 48
113 The Clockwork Fingerflake Variation E2 5c 2
114 Durin VD 174
115 Elf-like HVS 5a 3
Climb name Grade
  Eagle Rock
117 Trim The Fringe VS 4b 7
118 The Hive Queen E2 5b 8
119 Thorin VD 89
120 Sales Rep
-
VS 4c 1
121 Quality Of Sacrifice
-
E5 6c ** 2
122 Atonement E7 6c *** 4
123 Project Wall E12 7c *** 1
124 Killer Ant E3 6a 5
125 Hawkword E4 6a 1
126 Orcrist
-
VS 4c 59
127 The Black Riders
-
E1 5b * 126
128 The Israel Blues
-
E3 5c * 24
129 Hollow Ring
-
E4 6a  
130 Glamdring VS 4c * 133
131 Route March
-
VS 4c 7
132 Golfinbul VD 2
133 Hitler's Bunker VD 6
134 Gloin
-
HS 4b 18
135 Battle With the Bulge E1 5c 4
136 Jampols HVS 4c 10
137 Bifur
-
VS 4b * 380
138 Scrambling Remains E1 5b 58
139 Kick the hobbit E2 5b 13
140 The Hobbit S 207
141 The White Tower
-
E4 6a * 34
142 Dead Wood E6 6b 1
143 Gift Tolkien S 4a 159
144 The Holly and the Eddie E2 5c 3
145 The Gnome King HS 4b * 405
146 Shots of the Almighty E4 6a 6
147 Bilbo's Revenge
-
HVS 5a 96
148 Not Golfinbul S 4a * 24
149 The Route with No Gnome VS 4c 4
150 Wielding the Mystical Sword of Owld Bulchyt VS 4c 4
151 Everything is Awesome
-
HS 4a 1
  THE CARROCK
153 Wild Thyme and Woodlice (left hand) HS 4b 2
154 Thyme Lord
-
HS 4b * 16
155 Cry Your Eyes Out
-
HS 4a 2
156 Roal
-
HS 4a 4
157 Sky Larking
-
VS 4c * 23
158 Air Choir
-
E1 5b 4
159 Central Line
-
E3 6a * 2
160 Ganderflanking
-
VS 4c * 10
161 Kori
-
VS 4c * 19
162 Carl
-
HS 4b 12
163 Shake Off
-
VS 4c 3
164 Shake, Rattle and Roll
-
VS 4c * 13
  Cleeve Combe
166 The Ordinary
-
HS 5b 1
167 Settlement Crack
-
VD 4
168 Haust
-
VS 4b 3
169 Fall Of The Leaf
-
S 4a 4
170 Urgles
-
D 4
171 Iron Age Sex
-
E1 5c 1
172 An Inevitable Outcome
-
HVS 5b 1
173 Perverse Birthday Traverse VS 4c 2
174 Scrotes Noodle VD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Doug Kerr