Climbs 173
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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The excellent Gollum (E1 5b) © stvredmond

Crag features

Quality steep and sound limestone. Very quick drying. Climbing is strenuous, but generally well protected, with quite a few real gems.
Very under starred in the current guide.

Watch out for ticks in the summer.

 

RAVENS NESTING AGAIN ON OCRIST - EAGLE ROCK. PLEASE AVOID CLIMBING THE LEFT SIDE OF EAGLE ROCK ( Trim The Fringe to Route March) UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.

Approach notes


Situated about eight miles SW of Bristol, just beyond the village of Cleeve on the A370. From Bristol, turn east along Cleeve Hill Road just before the Lord Nelson Inn. Carry on for about
400 metres until you reach a small car park by a quarried wall. A small track leads into the Combe itself from a small building to the left of the quarry.

Access Advice

In Nov 2014 the BMC was contacted by Groundworks South who own the main crag, following a helicopter rescue of a climber nearby. Groundworks have advised that they do not formally allow climbing at the site however after several attempts to arrange a meeting to discuss climbing access, nothing has been forthcoming so far. Climbing at Goblin Coombe is not allowed by the landowner, but if climbers do decide to visit the crag and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely.

As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the young birds are fully fledged (likely to be the end of May).

The flagpole at the top of Toot Rock has gone. There is just a wooden stump left.
cpoad - 13/May/19
The flagpole at the top of Toot Rock seems to have gone. There is just a short broken wooden pole left now.
cpoad - 12/May/19
Great little crag in an even greater setting.
Ander - 22/Apr/19
Climbed here for the first time yesterday; excellent little crag with good routes across a wide spectrum of grades. Good gear and superb rock. Will be back soon!
Gabe Oliver - 04/Oct/15
The peg on Moments in Space has now gone. Snapped during a short fall yesterday in wet slippery conditions. It was a rusty old knife blade. Not sure if the placement will take another. Route still protectable but a bit bolder maybe?
Didymus - 31/Jul/15
Currently restoring the overgrown routes. Gremlin Groove and Radagast both now in tip top condition.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Mar/14
Pulled a hold of Mithril a few days ago, it's marginally harder but not enough to change the grade.
remus - 08/Sep/12
Really excellent crag and a much higher quality of climbing than the star distribution would suggest. Though the tick infestation is severe!
Kemics - 21/Jul/12
A reminder to watch out for ticks, I have picked up at least one on three out of four trips here in the last couple of years. Do do a thorough check when you get home!
Bobling - 12/Aug/11
Don't leave anything of value in your car as it has been known for the local scumbags to break in to them for a rummage!
maresia - 29/May/09
Beware of ticks. Nasty little baggers which can quickly turn a day of climbing into chimpanzee level and style of grooming. Make sure you have long sleeves and trousers or a decent repellent. (if they work on ticks!?!)
Piers - 23/Jun/08
Gift Tolkien has a roosting barn owl at the top in cracks in the wall. Maybe think twice about disturbing!!
liz j - 03/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Car-Park Bay
2 Oh! Oh! Antonio D 2
3 Au Coin D 2
4 Les Ondes VD 3
5 Leberkase VD 4a 49
6 Rebellious Route VS 4c * 3
7 Fix The Squeak
-
E3 5c * 37
8 Strong Arm Tactics
-
E3 6a 3
9 The Goblin's Teasmade E2 5b * 63
10 Give us a Break
-
E4 6a 7
11 Peapod
-
HVS 5a 40
12 Edge of Mirkwood
-
HVS 5c 28
13 The Forest Gate VS 4c 24
14 The Gurnjugs
-
E4 6a 1
15 Relief Massage E1 5b 6
16 Eowyn V0 1
  TOOT ROCK
18 Gurt Superb VS 4c 3
19 Blah Blah Blah
-
E2 5c 1
20 Cleve Toot and the Maytals
-
E3 6a 1
21 African Doctor
-
E3 6a 1
22 Peroxide Blonde
-
E5 6b 1
23 That's my Number
-
E4 6a 1
24 Belladonna VD 6
25 Bilbo
-
VS 4b 20
26 Toot Sweet
-
HVS 5a 8
27 Iron Age Goblin HS 4b 6
28 Bungo Direct
-
VS 4c 8
29 Scrotes Noodle VD 2
30 Bungo VD 4
  Owl Rock
32 Bombur D 10
33 Lord of the ring piece HS 4b 2
34 Owlet VD 25
35 The Gimblies S 4a 23
36 Gremlin Groove HS 4b * 30
37 Bowser's Castle HVS 5a 6
38 Bard the Bowman HS 4b * 633
39 Girion HVS 5b * 9
40 Girion Direct E2 5c 12
41 Girion Direct Superdirect Start
-
E3 6a 2
42 Tolkien Heads E3 6b 2
43 Radagast VS 4c 70
44 The Naked Rambler
-
VS 4c * 16
45 Moments in Space E2 5c 37
46 Elrond VS 4c * 565
47 The Shadow of Mordor E4 5c 2
48 Nazgul E5 6a * 21
49 Shagrat E2 5b 72
50 Precious
-
E2 5c 14
51 Gollum E1 5b * 323
52 The Goblin Queen E3 6a 27
53 Smaug The Dragon E1 5c ** 268
54 Cloak and Dagger E3 5c * 8
55 The Goblin King E2 5c ** 192
56 Peter Jackson's Extra Lines E2 5b 1
57 Bullroarer E1 5b 83
58 Mithril E4 6a * 55
59 Mithril Direct Finish E5 6a ** 10
60 Mithril / The Wargs E4 6a ** 14
61 The 'Oh No!' Zone E6 6b 9
Climb name Grade
62 The Wargs
-
E4 6b ** 37
63 Modern Times E5 6b * 9
64 Gondolin
-
VS 4b * 503
65 The Moves! The Moves!
-
E3 6a 22
66 Gundabad E1 5b * 465
67 Ganjagood HVS 4c * 9
68 Necromancer
-
VS 4b * 279
69 Necrophilia E2 5b 9
70 Longbeard HVS 5b 40
71 Treebeard Direct
-
E1 5c * 18
72 Treebeard VS 4c * 308
73 Greybeard (Treebeard variation) VS 4b 78
74 Open Knightly HVS 5a * 36
75 Greybeard (original) HS 4a 20
76 Hordes of the Things
-
E2 5c  
77 Jive Tolkien
-
E5 6b  
78 Lords of the Ring Piece HS 4b, 4a 4
  The Obelisk Area
80 Trolls' Chimney HD 16
81 Michael Mullet E3 5c 5
82 Nobalicks E2 6b 5
83 Obelisk Crack
-
S 4a 222
84 Crocker's Office Rocker E1 5c 3
85 Pebbles VS 4c 29
86 Bolg S 4a 459
87 Betwixt and Between VS 4b 11
88 Legolas
-
HVS 5a 227
89 Brandybuck
-
HVS 5a 45
90 Brandybuck Direct. E3 5c 5
91 Legless on Brandy VS 4c 52
92 A Parcel of Small Children VS 5a 1
93 Pearl VD * 75
94 Necklace S 4a 10
  Magic Rock
96 Saving Brian's Privates S 4a 3
97 Your Very Good Elf HS 4a 16
98 Galadriel's Gash D 3
99 Queer Lodgings E1 5b 8
  The Arkenstone
101 Horology Horror
-
VS 4c 7
102 Pippin Variations E1 5c 16
103 Pippin
-
VS 5a 240
104 Skwozed in E3 5c 24
105 Outlands VS 4b 4
106 Disaster Area
-
HVS 5a * 583
107 Disaster Area Variation E2 5c * 32
108 Deo volente E2 5c 28
109 Esgaroth
-
HS 4b * 789
110 Idee Fixe E4 5c 18
111 Too Much Tolkien
-
VD 72
  Orthanc
113 Sometimes Forgotten
-
S 2
114 Sometimes Lost
-
VS 5a 2
115 Sometimes Hidden S 4a 13
116 Hidden Strength, Visible Weakness HVS 5b 3
117 Balin
-
VS 5a 2
118 Dwarfin
-
VS 4c 1
119 Dain S 4a 169
120 Saruman
-
HS 4b 210
121 Gandalf HVS 5a * 209
122 The Clockwork Fingerflake E1 5b 51
Climb name Grade
123 The Clockwork Fingerflake Variation E2 5c 2
124 Durin VD 193
125 Elf-like HVS 5a 3
  Eagle Rock
127 Trim The Fringe VS 4b 7
128 The Hive Queen E2 5b 8
129 Thorin VD 92
130 Sales Rep
-
VS 4c 1
131 Quality Of Sacrifice
-
E5 6c ** 2
132 Atonement E7 6c *** 4
133 Project Wall E12 7c *** 1
134 Killer Ant E3 6a 6
135 Hawkword E4 6a 1
136 Orcrist
-
VS 4c 59
137 The Black Riders
-
E1 5b * 136
138 The Israel Blues
-
E3 5c * 27
139 Hollow Ring
-
E4 6a  
140 Glamdring VS 4c * 142
141 Route March
-
VS 4c 7
142 Golfinbul VD 3
143 Hitler's Bunker VD 6
144 Gloin
-
HS 4b 19
145 Battle With the Bulge E1 5c 4
146 Jampols HVS 4c 10
147 Bifur
-
VS 4b * 429
148 Scrambling Remains E1 5b 60
149 Kick the hobbit E2 5b 14
150 The Hobbit S 238
151 The White Tower
-
E4 6a * 39
152 Dead Wood E6 6b 1
153 Gift Tolkien S 4a 179
154 The Holly and the Eddie E2 5c 6
155 The Gnome King HS 4b * 459
156 Shots of the Almighty E4 6a 6
157 Bilbo's Revenge
-
HVS 5a 102
158 Not Golfinbul S 4a * 30
159 The Route with No Gnome VS 4c 4
160 Wielding the Mystical Sword of Owld Bulchyt VS 4c 4
161 Everything is Awesome
-
HS 4a 1
  THE CARROCK
163 Wild Thyme and Woodlice (left hand) HS 4b 2
164 Thyme Lord
-
HS 4b * 16
165 Cry Your Eyes Out
-
HS 4a 2
166 Roal
-
HS 4a 4
167 Sky Larking
-
VS 4c * 24
168 Air Choir
-
E1 5b 4
169 Central Line
-
E3 6a * 2
170 Ganderflanking
-
VS 4c * 11
171 Kori
-
VS 4c * 21
172 Carl
-
HS 4b 15
173 Shake Off
-
VS 4c 5
174 Shake, Rattle and Roll
-
VS 4c * 11
  Cleeve Combe
176 The Ordinary
-
HS 5b 1
177 Settlement Crack
-
VD 4
178 Haust
-
VS 4b 3
179 Fall Of The Leaf
-
S 4a 4
180 Urgles
-
D 4
181 Iron Age Sex
-
E1 5c 1
182 An Inevitable Outcome
-
HVS 5b 1
183 Perverse Birthday Traverse VS 4c 4

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