Climbs 190
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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The excellent Gollum (E1 5b) © stvredmond

Crag features

Quality steep and sound limestone. Very quick drying. Climbing is strenuous, but generally well protected, with quite a few real gems.
Very under starred in the current guide.

Watch out for ticks in the summer.

 

RAVENS NESTING AGAIN ON OCRIST - EAGLE ROCK. PLEASE AVOID CLIMBING THE LEFT SIDE OF EAGLE ROCK ( Trim The Fringe to Route March) UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.

Approach notes


Situated about eight miles SW of Bristol, just beyond the village of Cleeve on the A370. From Bristol, turn east along Cleeve Hill Road just before the Lord Nelson Inn. Carry on for about
400 metres until you reach a small car park by a quarried wall. A small track leads into the Combe itself from a small building to the left of the quarry.

Access Advice

In Nov 2014 the BMC was contacted by Groundworks South who own the main crag, following a helicopter rescue of a climber nearby. Groundworks have advised that they do not formally allow climbing at the site however after several attempts to arrange a meeting to discuss climbing access, nothing has been forthcoming so far. Climbing at Goblin Coombe is not allowed by the landowner, but if climbers do decide to visit the crag and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely.

As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the young birds are fully fledged (likely to be the end of May).

The flagpole at the top of Toot Rock has gone. There is just a wooden stump left.
cpoad - 13/May/19
The flagpole at the top of Toot Rock seems to have gone. There is just a short broken wooden pole left now.
cpoad - 12/May/19
Great little crag in an even greater setting.
Ander - 22/Apr/19
Climbed here for the first time yesterday; excellent little crag with good routes across a wide spectrum of grades. Good gear and superb rock. Will be back soon!
Gabe Oliver - 04/Oct/15
The peg on Moments in Space has now gone. Snapped during a short fall yesterday in wet slippery conditions. It was a rusty old knife blade. Not sure if the placement will take another. Route still protectable but a bit bolder maybe?
Didymus - 31/Jul/15
Currently restoring the overgrown routes. Gremlin Groove and Radagast both now in tip top condition.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Mar/14
Pulled a hold of Mithril a few days ago, it's marginally harder but not enough to change the grade.
remus - 08/Sep/12
Really excellent crag and a much higher quality of climbing than the star distribution would suggest. Though the tick infestation is severe!
Kemics - 21/Jul/12
A reminder to watch out for ticks, I have picked up at least one on three out of four trips here in the last couple of years. Do do a thorough check when you get home!
Bobling - 12/Aug/11
Don't leave anything of value in your car as it has been known for the local scumbags to break in to them for a rummage!
maresia - 29/May/09
Beware of ticks. Nasty little baggers which can quickly turn a day of climbing into chimpanzee level and style of grooming. Make sure you have long sleeves and trousers or a decent repellent. (if they work on ticks!?!)
Piers - 23/Jun/08
Gift Tolkien has a roosting barn owl at the top in cracks in the wall. Maybe think twice about disturbing!!
liz j - 03/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Car-Park Bay
2 Oh! Oh! Antonio D 6
3 Au Coin D 6
4 Les Ondes VD 6
5 Leberkase VD 4a 52
6 Rebellious Route VS 4c * 3
7 Fix The Squeak
-
E3 5c * 37
8 Strong Arm Tactics
-
E3 6a 3
9 The Goblin's Teasmade E2 5b * 64
10 Give us a Break
-
E4 6a 7
11 Peapod
-
HVS 5a 40
12 Edge of Mirkwood
-
HVS 5c 27
13 The Forest Gate VS 4c 24
14 The Gurnjugs
-
E4 6a 1
15 Relief Massage E1 5b 8
16 Eowyn V0 2
17 Idril V0 1
18 Varda V0+ 1
  TOOT ROCK
20 Gurt Superb VS 4c 3
21 Blah Blah Blah
-
E2 5c 1
22 Cleve Toot and the Maytals
-
E3 6a 1
23 African Doctor
-
E3 6a 1
24 Peroxide Blonde
-
E5 6b 1
25 That's my Number
-
E4 6a 1
26 Belladonna VD 6
27 Bilbo
-
VS 4b 22
28 Toot Sweet
-
HVS 5a 11
29 Iron Age Goblin HS 4b 8
30 Bungo Direct
-
VS 4c 8
31 Bungo VD 6
  Little Napes Scarp
33 Scrotes Noodle VD 3
34 When the East Wind Blows HVS 5a  
35 Iron Heart HVS 5b  
36 Beast From the East VD 1
37 Siberian Bear S 4a 1
38 Reward for Failure E1 5c  
39 Get Rich, Die Trying HS 4b  
40 Big Society Sucker E1 6a  
41 Lets Go Back VD 1
42 The way we Came VD 1
43 Bleak Easter Break HVS 5c 1
44 Little Napes Groove S 1
45 Five Bar Finger Drill E2 5c  
46 Shaker Loops E2 5b  
47 Beat Clubs of Hamburg E3 5c  
  Owl Rock
49 Bombur D 13
50 Lords of the Ring Piece HS 4b, 4a 8
51 Owlet VD 25
52 The Gimblies S 4a 23
53 Gremlin Groove HS 4b * 31
54 Bowser's Castle HVS 5a 6
55 Bard the Bowman HS 4b * 657
56 Girion HVS 5b * 9
57 Girion Direct E2 5c 12
58 Girion Direct Superdirect Start
-
E3 6a 2
59 Tolkien Heads E3 6b 2
60 Radagast VS 4c 70
61 The Naked Rambler
-
VS 4c * 17
62 Moments in Space E2 5c 37
63 Elrond VS 4c * 585
64 The Shadow of Mordor E4 5c 2
65 Nazgul E5 6a * 21
66 Shagrat E2 5b 72
67 Precious
-
E2 5c 14
Climb name Grade
68 Gollum E1 5b * 337
69 The Goblin Queen E3 6a 27
70 Smaug The Dragon E1 5c ** 279
71 Cloak and Dagger E3 5c * 8
72 The Goblin King E2 5c ** 200
73 Peter Jackson's Extra Lines E2 5b 1
74 Bullroarer E1 5b 86
75 Mithril E4 6a * 58
76 Mithril Direct Finish E5 6a ** 10
77 Mithril / The Wargs E4 6a ** 14
78 The 'Oh No!' Zone E6 6b 9
79 The Wargs
-
E4 6b ** 37
80 Modern Times E5 6b * 9
81 Gondolin
-
VS 4b * 516
82 The Moves! The Moves!
-
E3 6a 22
83 Gundabad E1 5b * 479
84 Ganjagood HVS 4c * 9
85 Necromancer
-
VS 4b * 283
86 Necrophilia E2 5b 9
87 Longbeard HVS 5b 40
88 Treebeard Direct
-
E1 5c * 18
89 Treebeard VS 4c * 320
90 Greybeard (Treebeard variation) VS 4b 78
91 Open Knightly HVS 5a * 36
92 Greybeard (original) HS 4a 20
93 Hordes of the Things
-
E2 5c  
94 Jive Tolkien
-
E5 6b  
  The Obelisk Area
96 Trolls' Chimney HD 16
97 Michael Mullet E3 5c 5
98 Nobalicks E2 6b 5
99 Obelisk Crack
-
S 4a 224
100 Obelisk Groove VD 1
101 Crocker's Office Rocker E1 5c 3
102 Pebbles VS 4c 29
103 Bolg S 4a 472
104 Betwixt and Between VS 4b 11
105 Legolas
-
HVS 5a 232
106 Brandybuck
-
HVS 5a 47
107 Brandybuck Direct. E3 5c 5
108 Legless on Brandy VS 4c 53
109 A Parcel of Small Children VS 5a 1
110 Pearl VD * 75
111 Necklace S 4a 12
  Magic Rock
113 Saving Brian's Privates S 4a 3
114 Your Very Good Elf HS 4a 16
115 Galadriel's Gash D 3
116 Queer Lodgings E1 5b 8
  The Arkenstone
118 Horology Horror
-
VS 4c 8
119 Perverse Birthday Traverse VS 4c 4
120 Pippin Variations E1 5c 16
121 Pippin
-
VS 5a 242
122 Skwozed in E3 5c 26
123 Outlands VS 4b 4
124 Disaster Area
-
HVS 5a * 597
125 Disaster Area Variation E2 5c * 32
126 Deo volente E2 5c 28
127 Esgaroth
-
HS 4b * 809
128 Idee Fixe E4 5c 18
129 Too Much Tolkien
-
VD 73
  Orthanc
131 Sometimes Forgotten
-
S 2
132 Sometimes Lost
-
VS 5a 2
133 Sometimes Hidden S 4a 13
134 Hidden Strength, Visible Weakness HVS 5b 3
Climb name Grade
135 Balin
-
VS 5a 2
136 Dwarfin
-
VS 4c 2
137 Dain S 4a 171
138 Saruman
-
HS 4b 212
139 Gandalf HVS 5a * 211
140 The Clockwork Fingerflake E1 5b 52
141 The Clockwork Fingerflake Variation E2 5c 2
142 Durin VD 198
143 Elf-like HVS 5a 3
  Eagle Rock
145 Trim The Fringe VS 4b 7
146 The Hive Queen E2 5b 8
147 Thorin VD 95
148 Sales Rep
-
VS 4c 1
149 Quality Of Sacrifice
-
E5 6c ** 2
150 Atonement E7 6c *** 4
151 Project Wall E12 7c *** 1
152 Killer Ant E3 6a 6
153 Hawkword E4 6a 1
154 Orcrist
-
VS 4c 59
155 The Black Riders
-
E1 5b * 139
156 The Israel Blues
-
E3 5c * 28
157 Hollow Ring
-
E4 6a  
158 Glamdring VS 4c * 146
159 Route March
-
VS 4c 7
160 Golfinbul VD 3
161 Hitler's Bunker VD 6
162 Gloin
-
HS 4b 19
163 Battle With the Bulge E1 5c 4
164 Jampols HVS 4c 10
165 Bifur
-
VS 4b * 442
166 Scrambling Remains E1 5b 60
167 Kick the hobbit E2 5b 14
168 The Hobbit S 240
169 The White Tower
-
E4 6a * 39
170 Dead Wood E6 6b 1
171 Gift Tolkien S 4a 185
172 The Holly and the Eddie E2 5c 7
173 The Gnome King HS 4b * 471
174 Shots of the Almighty E4 6a 6
175 Bilbo's Revenge
-
HVS 5a 104
176 Not Golfinbul S 4a * 32
177 The Route with No Gnome VS 4c 4
178 Wielding the Mystical Sword of Owld Bulchyt VS 4c 4
179 Everything is Awesome
-
HS 4a 1
  THE CARROCK
181 Wild Thyme and Woodlice (left hand) HS 4b 2
182 Thyme Lord
-
HS 4b * 16
183 Cry Your Eyes Out
-
HS 4a 2
184 Roal
-
HS 4a 4
185 Sky Larking
-
VS 4c * 26
186 Air Choir
-
E1 5b 4
187 Central Line
-
E3 6a * 2
188 Ganderflanking
-
HVS 5a ** 12
189 Kori
-
VS 4c * 21
190 Carl
-
HS 4b 17
191 Shake Off
-
VS 4c 5
192 Shake, Rattle and Roll
-
VS 4c * 11
  Cleeve Combe
194 The Ordinary
-
HS 5b 1
195 Settlement Crack
-
VD 4
196 Haust
-
VS 4b 3
197 Fall Of The Leaf
-
S 4a 4
198 Urgles
-
D 4
199 Iron Age Sex
-
E1 5c 1
200 An Inevitable Outcome
-
HVS 5b 1

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