Climbs 161
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

The Gnome King. © deepstar

Crag features

Quality steep and sound limestone. Very quick drying. Climbing is strenuous, but generally well protected, with quite a few real gems.
Very under starred in the current guide.

Watch out for ticks in the summer.

 

RAVENS NESTING AGAIN ON OCRIST - EAGLE ROCK. PLEASE AVOID CLIMBING THE LEFT SIDE OF EAGLE ROCK ( Trim The Fringe to Route March) UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.

Approach notes


Situated about eight miles SW of Bristol, just beyond the village of Cleeve on the A370. From Bristol, turn east along Cleeve Hill Road just before the Lord Nelson Inn. Carry on for about
400 metres until you reach a small car park by a quarried wall. A small track leads into the Combe itself from a small building to the left of the quarry.

Access Advice

In Nov 2014 the BMC was contacted by Groundworks South who own the main crag, following a helicopter rescue of a climber nearby. Groundworks have advised that they do not formally allow climbing at the site however after several attempts to arrange a meeting to discuss climbing access, nothing has been forthcoming so far. Climbing at Goblin Coombe is not allowed by the landowner, but if climbers do decide to visit the crag and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely.

As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the routes Trim the Fringe to Route March for nesting ravens.

Climbed here for the first time yesterday; excellent little crag with good routes across a wide spectrum of grades. Good gear and superb rock. Will be back soon!
Gabe Oliver - 04/Oct/15
The peg on Moments in Space has now gone. Snapped during a short fall yesterday in wet slippery conditions. It was a rusty old knife blade. Not sure if the placement will take another. Route still protectable but a bit bolder maybe?
Didymus - 31/Jul/15
Currently restoring the overgrown routes. Gremlin Groove and Radagast both now in tip top condition.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Mar/14
Pulled a hold of Mithril a few days ago, it's marginally harder but not enough to change the grade.
remus - 08/Sep/12
Really excellent crag and a much higher quality of climbing than the star distribution would suggest. Though the tick infestation is severe!
Kemics - 21/Jul/12
A reminder to watch out for ticks, I have picked up at least one on three out of four trips here in the last couple of years. Do do a thorough check when you get home!
Bobling - 12/Aug/11
Don't leave anything of value in your car as it has been known for the local scumbags to break in to them for a rummage!
maresia - 29/May/09
Beware of ticks. Nasty little baggers which can quickly turn a day of climbing into chimpanzee level and style of grooming. Make sure you have long sleeves and trousers or a decent repellent. (if they work on ticks!?!)
Piers - 23/Jun/08
Gift Tolkien has a roosting barn owl at the top in cracks in the wall. Maybe think twice about disturbing!!
liz j - 03/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Car-Park Bay
2 Leberkase VD 4a 37
3 Fix The Squeak
-
E3 5c * 31
4 Strong Arm Tactics
-
E3 6a 3
5 The Goblin's Teasmade E2 5b * 62
6 Give us a Break
-
E4 6a 7
7 Peapod
-
HVS 5a 39
8 Edge of Mirkwood
-
HVS 5c 26
9 The Forest Gate VS 4c 18
10 The Gurnjugs
-
E4 6a 1
11 Relief Massage E1 5b 5
  TOOT ROCK
13 Bilbo
-
VS 4b 5
14 Gurt Superb VS 4c 3
15 Toot Sweet
-
HVS 5a 2
16 Blah Blah Blah
-
E2 5c 1
17 Cleve Toot and the Maytals
-
E3 6a 1
18 African Doctor
-
E3 6a 1
19 Peroxide Blonde
-
E5 6b 1
20 That's my Number
-
E4 6a 1
21 Bungo Direct
-
VS 4c 4
  Owl Rock
23 Bombur D 2
24 Owlet VD 19
25 The Gimblies S 4a 17
26 Gremlin Groove HS 4b * 30
27 Bowser's Castle HVS 5a 6
28 Bard the Bowman HS 4b * 562
29 Girion HVS 5b * 8
30 Girion Direct E2 5c 12
31 Girion Direct Superdirect Start
-
E3 6a 2
32 Tolkien Heads E3 6b 2
33 Radagast VS 4c 58
34 The Naked Rambler
-
VS 4c * 8
35 Moments in Space E2 5c 37
36 Elrond VS 4c * 488
37 The Shadow of Mordor E4 5c 2
38 Nazgul E5 6a * 19
39 Shagrat E2 5b 62
40 Precious
-
E2 5c 13
41 Gollum E1 5b * 291
42 The Goblin Queen E3 6a 24
43 Smaug The Dragon E1 5c ** 245
44 Cloak and Dagger E3 5c * 8
45 The Goblin King E2 5c ** 159
46 Bullroarer E1 5b 71
47 Mithril E4 6a * 49
48 Mithril Direct Finish E5 6a ** 8
49 Mithril / The Wargs E4 6a ** 8
50 The 'Oh No!' Zone E6 6b 7
51 The Wargs
-
E4 6b ** 33
52 Modern Times E5 6b * 9
53 Gondolin
-
VS 4b * 432
54 The Moves! The Moves!
-
E3 6a 19
55 Gundabad E1 5b * 407
56 Ganjagood HVS 4c * 8
57 Necromancer
-
VS 4b * 264
58 Necrophilia E2 5b 9
59 Longbeard HVS 5b 36
60 Treebeard Direct
-
E1 5c * 14
61 Treebeard VS 4c * 281
62 Greybeard (Treebeard variation) VS 4b 75
63 Open Knightly HVS 5a * 30
64 Greybeard (original) HS 4a 15
65 Hordes of the Things
-
E2 5c  
66 Jive Tolkien
-
E5 6b  
  The Obelisk Area
68 Trolls' Chimney HD 11
69 Michael Mullet E3 5c 4
70 Nobalicks E2 6b 5
71 Obelisk Crack
-
S 4a 201
72 Crocker's Office Rocker E1 5c 2
73 Pebbles VS 4c 28
74 Bolg S 4a 408
75 Betwixt and Between VS 4b 11
76 Legolas
-
HVS 5a 212
77 Brandybuck
-
HVS 5a 40
78 Brandybuck Direct. E3 5c 5
79 Legless on Brandy VS 4c 51
80 A Parcel of Small Children VS 5a 1
81 Pearl VD * 66
82 Necklace S 4a 7
  Magic Rock
84 Saving Brian's Privates S 4a 3
85 Your Very Good Elf HS 4a 14
86 Galadriel's Gash D 2
87 Queer Lodgings E1 5b 8
  The Arkenstone
89 Horology Horror
-
VS 4c 2
90 Pippin Variations E1 5c 16
91 Pippin
-
VS 5a 213
92 Skwozed in E3 5c 21
93 Outlands VS 4b 4
94 Disaster Area
-
HVS 5a * 511
95 Disaster Area Variation E2 5c * 26
96 Deo volente E2 5c 23
97 Esgaroth
-
HS 4b * 690
98 Idee Fixe E4 5c 14
99 Too Much Tolkien
-
VD 66
  Orthanc
101 Sometimes Forgotten
-
S 2
102 Sometimes Lost
-
VS 5a 2
103 Sometimes Hidden S 4a 13
104 Hidden Strength, Visible Weakness HVS 5b 3
105 Balin
-
VS 5a 2
106 Dwarfin
-
VS 4c 1
107 Dain S 4a 164
108 Saruman
-
HS 4b 184
109 Gandalf HVS 5a * 194
110 The Clockwork Fingerflake E1 5b 48
111 The Clockwork Fingerflake Variation E2 5c 2
112 Durin VD 173
113 Elf-like HVS 5a 3
  Eagle Rock
115 Trim The Fringe VS 4b 6
116 The Hive Queen E2 5b 8
117 Thorin VD 88
118 Sales Rep
-
VS 4c 1
119 Quality Of Sacrifice
-
E5 6c ** 2
120 Atonement E7 6c *** 4
121 Project Wall E12 7c *** 1
122 Killer Ant E3 6a 5
123 Hawkword E4 6a 1
124 Orcrist
-
VS 4c 59
125 The Black Riders
-
E1 5b * 133
126 The Israel Blues
-
E3 5c * 24
127 Hollow Ring
-
E4 6a  
128 Glamdring VS 4c * 130
129 Route March
-
VS 4c 7
130 Golfinbul VD 2
131 Hitler's Bunker VD 6
132 Gloin
-
HS 4b 18
133 Battle With the Bulge E1 5c 4
134 Jampols HVS 4c 9
135 Bifur
-
VS 4b * 385
136 Scrambling Remains E1 5b 57
137 Kick the hobbit E2 5b 13
138 The Hobbit S 213
139 The White Tower
-
E4 6a * 33
140 Dead Wood E6 6b 1
141 Gift Tolkien S 4a 160
142 The Holly and the Eddie E2 5c 3
143 The Gnome King HS 4b * 413
144 Shots of the Almighty E4 6a 6
145 Bilbo's Revenge
-
HVS 5a 94
146 Not Golfinbul S 4a * 24
147 The Route with No Gnome VS 4c 4
148 Wielding the Mystical Sword of Owld Bulchyt VS 4c 4
149 Everything is Awesome
-
HS 4a 1
  THE CARROCK
151 Wild Thyme and Woodlice (left hand) HS 4b 2
152 Thyme Lord
-
HS 4b * 16
153 Cry Your Eyes Out
-
HS 4a 2
154 Roal
-
HS 4a 4
155 Sky Larking
-
VS 4c * 23
156 Air Choir
-
E1 5b 4
157 Central Line
-
E3 6a * 2
158 Ganderflanking
-
VS 4c * 10
159 Kori
-
VS 4c * 19
160 Carl
-
HS 4b 12
161 Shake Off
-
VS 4c 3
162 Shake, Rattle and Roll
-
VS 4c * 10
  Cleeve Combe
164 The Ordinary
-
HS 5b 1
165 Settlement Crack
-
VD 4
166 Haust
-
VS 4b 3
167 Fall Of The Leaf
-
S 4a 4
168 Urgles
-
D 4
169 Iron Age Sex
-
E1 5c 1
170 An Inevitable Outcome
-
HVS 5b 1
171 Perverse Birthday Traverse VS 4c 1

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