UKC

Climbs 147
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Michelangelo © oldmorley

Crag features

A fine-granite quarry close to Castle Rock in St. Johns in the Vale. From a distance the quarry looks dangerously loose but closer inspection reveals some good solid areas of rock. Many of the routes when they were first put up were a mixture of trad and occasional home made bolt hangers. Many upper tier routes are hard to protect with trad gear and most have now been retro-bolted.


Not an aesthetic crag but good slab climbing and accessible for a quick hit.

Approach notes

Park in a layby just South of the quarry entrance, follow the zig-zag track to a T-junction, turn right and then up the grass ridge to the upper tier, or straight on to the lower tier.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to routes left of Long Dash (not including that route) and the bank up to the left. The area to the right of this is unrestircted (the area first reached when approaching the crag).

Last dash F6b, Twilight F5, The Quarryman F6a - theses routes are all now bolted and graded as above in latest lake district book
crabtreer - 31/Aug/15
Two house brick sized rock falls from the overhanging choss above the Charcoal Burners area last night. One was uncomfortably close.
r_o_b_h2 - 17/Jul/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Tier
2 Stage Left 6a 8
3 Centre Stage 6a 7
4 Stage Right 5b 10
5 Footlights 5b 9
6 Encore 5b 7
7 Beyond The Fringe 5a 10
8 Moggy's Meander VD 1
9 Production Line 6a 2
10 Synergy 7a 8
11 Dream Catcher 6c *** 6
12 Skywalker 6b+ 7
13 Aquaman 6b ** 10
14 Waterworld 6a+ ** 12
15 The Revenant 6b ** 7
16 Endeavour 6a ** 6
17 Life begins at 40 6b ** 8
18 Nappy rash HVS 5b * 8
19 No country for old men 6b+ 2
20 Baptismal vows 6a+ 2
21 Easter Rising 6a+ 1
22 Another poolside attraction 6b ** 6
23 Kill Bill 6b 2
24 Forever Young 5a 13
25 Seconds Away VS 4c 17
26 The Mutineer 6b+ 16
27 Marine's Slab 6a * 51
28 Captain Pugwash revisited. 6a 29
29 Here's looking at Euclid 6b+ *** 14
30 Viagra Falls 6a ** 5
31 Priaprism 6a 3
32 Scrotal Recall 6a+ ** 14
33 The Waterboys 6a 7
  Bram Crag Wall
35 Michelangelo
-
6b ** 75
36 Middle Earth
-
7b * 34
37 Bram Crag Wall
-
7a ** 57
38 Wai Lord
-
7b+ * 4
39 Combi 5c 2
40 Yazidi 6a+ 1
41 The Hurt Locker 6b+ 5
42 Bolt from the Blue 6b ** 7
43 A Shot in the Dark 6b *** 8
44 Marginal Gains 6b 6
45 Roughnecks 6a+ ** 9
46 Louper 6b+ ** 3
  The Danger Zone (name says it all!)
48 The Visionary 6a+ * 6
49 Flying Dutchman 6b+ ** 6
50 This Charming Man 6a 4
51 Vanished Times 6b 1
52 Antiques Roadshow 6a+ 6
53 Charm Offensive 6b 5
Climb name Grade
54 Cool Hand Luke E2 5c 3
55 Dancing in the Danger Zone! 6b 3
  Charcoal Burners Buttress
57 Best Western 6a+ ** 9
58 The Deviant 6c+ 1
59 Keep The Car Running 6a+ 3
60 Arcade Fire 6a+ ** 4
61 Silicon Crack
-
6c 5
62 The Culling 6c 8
63 Slaying the Badger 6a+ ** 14
64 Ripping Yarns 6a ** 17
65 The Charcoal Burner 6b *** 41
66 Sunbeam Talbot 6a+ * 29
67 Jack the Dripper 6b+ 2
68 The Mission 6b+ *** 1
69 The Spook 6a+ ** 2
70 The Wrecking Crew 6a+ ** 1
  Sunburst Slab
72 Tin Can Alley 6a ** 3
73 Coup-de-grace 6b *** 33
74 Grand Union 6c *** 36
75 The Sunshine Gang 6a *** 90
76 The Shooting Gallery 6a ** 25
77 Sunburst Slab 6a * 30
78 The Woodcutter's Lullaby 6c 1
79 Stoker 6c+ 4
80 Bring Me Sunshine 5a 21
  Promontory Buttress
82 Yopo 5c 46
83 Benghazi Burner 6a+ 38
84 Morley Street Mission 6a+ * 37
85 Last Dash E2 5c * 68
86 Con Artist 6b+ ** 18
87 Twilight 5b 67
88 Hound Dog 6a 41
89 The Quarryman 6a 68
90 The Wetherby Whaler 6a 28
  Main Wall
92 The Tipton Slasher 6b+ ** 42
93 Yorkshire Ripper 6b+ *** 25
94 Usian Bolt 6b ** 55
95 Middle East Crisis 6b * 4
96 Eastern Promise E2 5b 17
97 Coup d'Etat E3 6a 19
98 The history boys E2 5c *** 65
99 Desperate Dan 6b+ *** 20
100 Arc de Triomphe 6a+ 40
101 Dapper Dan 6a ** 7
102 Bobby Dazzler E1 5b *** 92
103 Hell Bender 6c ** 5
104 Bon Courage
-
E2 5c * 16
105 Mr Angry
-
E1 5c * 17
106 Bonne chance
-
E2 5c * 25
Climb name Grade
107 Take It or Leave It HVS 5a 29
108 Welcome to Rio 6a 8
  Center Parc
110 Bambino Bolero MVS 4b 4
111 On The Edge VS 4b 34
112 Tyke's Teeter E1 5c * 11
113 Tyke's Teeter Direct 6c 6
114 Gorilla Monsoon 6a+ * 18
115 Good Luck Mr Blair! E1 5a 6
116 Farewell to Adventure E1 5b 63
117 Fringe Benefits 6c * 5
118 Sorry, No Bolts E1 5a * 18
119 A miller's tale 6a 58
120 Fargo
-
5a * 72
121 Whicker's World 5a * 81
122 The Rookie 5a 46
123 The comfort zone 5a * 64
124 Blencathra Badger (original route) E1 5a * 49
125 Blencathra Badger Revisted 5b *** 145
126 The Long Good Friday 5a 86
127 The Good Friday Agreement 6b * 25
128 Brothers in Arms E2 5b 9
129 Brothers in Arms (bolted)
-
6a+ * 38
130 Ship of Fools 6a ** 75
131 Vale of Secrecy E1 5b 27
132 Vale of Secrecy (bolted)
-
6a+ * 22
133 Barrow Boys Day Out E1 5b 38
134 Barrow Boys' Day Out (bolted)
-
6a ** 48
135 Ripper Street 6b 21
136 Goodbye Mr Major 6a * 75
137 Goodfella's 5b 122
138 St. John's Ambulance VS 4b 77
139 Endgame 5b * 73
  Far Right Hand Buttress - aka - The Fun Factory
141 Joy Division 6a 4
142 The Fun Factory 6a 12
143 Tramadol Nights 6b *** 7
144 Zoom 6c ** 9
145 The Aphasic Syndrome 6c+ *** 18
146 Spring Offensive 6a+ ** 22
147 The Crossing 6a+ ** 11
148 Greek Exit 6b+ ** 21
149 Tunnel Vision 6a+ ** 24
150 Dignitas 6b ** 19
151 The Watchman 6a 1
152 The Night Watch 6a+ ** 13
153 The Clydebank kipper
-
6a * 8
154 The Vital Spark 6a  
155 Glasgow Kiss 6a+  
156 Sauchiehall Street 6a  
  Unverified Climbs

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