Climbs 402
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Crag features

The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

PLEASE NOTE: Nesting restriction are in place, routes on the Flywall beyond Dragonfly are out of bound (30/4/17)

Approach notes

Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. You can approach via Woodcroft Quarry, or take the Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Restricted Access

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. This does not affect climbing up to the Great Ledge. For the time being, pitches above the Great Ledge are not possible and descent should be by abseil from one of the two bolted abseil stations above “The Tap” or “Joe’s Route”. Two or three abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall allowing the last pitches to be climbed, but please do not top out on these routes and use the abseil stations instead.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners do not allow climbing on this section of crag. If you do climb here, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall are privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Cleaned Microserf 6c+ on the South Bay yesterday which took a considerable amount of time. Intend doing same on Valley Forge (will replace missing tat too) and Therapy. Lots of other greta routes are in need of the same treatment, would appreciate any help in the coming months.
mike hope - 16/Sep/16
Deceiver buttress has fallen down
alan rosier - 02/Jul/16
Last week the GO Wall was out of bounds due to nesting restrictions, but this may change.
springfall2008 - 09/May/15
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13
Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13
The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BB1 - 27/Oct/12
That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12
Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11
A video of the crux of Zelda is at:
TobyA - 01/Jan/08
A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07
I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07
enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06
First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06
The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06
Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05
I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05
recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04
Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04
A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03
Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Wall 
2 Avant GardeE2 5b 1
3AndromedaE1 5b *77
4The Secret Garden
E2 5b 2
5Script for a Jester's Tear6c+ 16
6Turmoil of a White Ocean
6b+ *50
7Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo
6b+ *7
8Sweeter Than SugarE4 6a *14
6c *41
6c+ 10
E1 5c 2
E3 5c  
13White Feather
E3 5c **60
14One Time One Night
E3 5c  
15Yesterday's Dreams
E2 5c **216
16AchillesE3 5c 4
17The RingE1 5b *5
18The Angel's GirdleVS 5a ***200
19A Calm Sea and a Prosperous VoyageE3 6a *2
E3 6a **1
21Event Horizon
E2 5c 1
E2 5c  
E2 5c 1
24GrykeHVS 5a 52
25Punch and JudyE2 5b *23
26Suspect Device
HVS 4c 11
27Left Hand RouteHS 4b **624
E2 5c **34
29Powers of Persuasion
E2 5b 11
30TarnhelmHVS 5a 23
31Great North Wall RouteHVS 4c *31
32SimplexVS 4c *180
33First Degree
E4 6c  
34Entrance ExamE4 5c *28
35Priory Road7b+ 21
36Highway to the DangerzoneE4 6b 8
37We've got the Honeymoon Blues
E4 6a 4
E4 6a  
39Swansong PreludeE2 5b *88
40The Valley Road
HVS 5a 3
E1 5b 4
42Central RouteVS 4b 53
HVS 4c 18
44The TapHVS 4c *159
45Under a Blood Red Sky
E1 5b 5
E1 5a *45
E2 5c 1
48NotungE1 5a/5b ***329
E3 5c 5
50SwansongE4 5c **46
51The Song Remains the SameE2 5b 21
52The Wrong TapHVS 5a *75
53BacchanalianHS 4b *120
54Finishing Under a Blood Red SkyHVS 4c 10
55Notung ForgedE1 5b 17
56Swansong Postlude
HVS 5a 7
57NibelheimVS 4c **642
58Right Hand RouteHS 4b 349
59Strawberry Dust
E2 5b 1
E2 5c 1
E2 5c  
62Tower Route
E3 5c 17
63Big Brother
E2 5c **68
64Big Brother DirectE3 5c *19
65Sweetheart Contract
E5 6a 1
66Strange Little Girl
E4 6a ***63
67The Angel's Arête
E4 6a *4
68The Angel's Arête (original)
E4 6a  
69Towering Angels
E2 5b 2
70Angelic Inferno
E4 6c  
71The Angel's EyeHVS 5b *383
72Blood Test
E2 5b  
73Banana Crunch
E2 5b 5
74Acid TestE3 5c **16
75Sold Out
E4 6a *3
76Special Offer
HVS 5a 5
77Final Reduction
E3 5c  
78Joe's RouteVS 4c *458
79Joe DirectHVS 5a 6
HVS 5a 1
HVS 5a  
HVS 5a  
VS 4c *109
HVS 5a 46
VS 5
E4 5c 2
89Men of GwentE1 5b *34
90Suicide is Dangerous
E3 5c *18
91Digitus Extractus
HVS 5a  
 Great Wall 
93One for Button M e3 5c * 
94Under a Raging MoonE2 5c 3
95Northerners Can't ClimbE1 5b 3
96Compost Wall
S 2
97Gemmell's Groove
S 1
98Loads' Lids
VD 5
99Original RouteVD *246
100Too Clever by HalfE3 6a *3
101The Rising Sun
HVS 5a 8
102John's Route
HS 169
 The Central Bay 
104Crystal Tips
HVS 5b 20
105Paul's Wall
HVS 5a 52
106Spinal TapE3 5c/6a 4
107Grey Wall
VS 4c 128
108Espresso Bongo
E1 5b 6
109Corner Buttress Route 1
VD 509
110Corner Buttress Route 2
VD 387
111Corner Buttress Route 3
M 91
112The Problemsnone 5b 12
113Cement Groove
D 168
114Direct Route
VD 112
115Direct Route (Severe Finish)S 4a 24
116Pig Iron
E1 5b 71
117Black Wall Left
HVS 5a 59
118Black Wall
HVS 4c 160
119Andy's routeHS 4b 2
120Wye Knot
D *58
121Save me from TomorrowE2 5b 31
122Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)
HVS 5a 6
123Rudely InterruptedE2 6a 2
124Centre of the Bay RouteS 22
125Terry's Left Hand Finish
S 4a 24
126AnotherVS 4c 9
127Terry's Right-hand Finish
HS 80
128Terry's Twin
VS 4c 43
129Terry's Gone Crackers
VS 4c 37
130TeryakiHS 4b 2
131Ridge Bypass
M 20
132Ridge Route
M 40
 South Bay 
134Wildlife6c 5
135Microserf6c+ **32
136Valley Forge
E2 5c *50
137Yr Herwehla
E1 5b 47
138Fear Is the Key
HVS 5a 2
139TherapyE2 5c *42
140PsychoE3 5c 5
141Pulp Friction
E4 6a *1
142VapourWareE2 5c *6
143Feline FrolicsE3 5c 6
144When the Wind Blows
E3 5c 1
145Morning Glory6a+ 6
146Loan SharkE3 6a 16
147MeningectomyE6 6a/b **8
148Debt Recovery
E2 5c 4
149Bottle Buttress
VD 3c *391
150Bottle Out
E1 5b *20
151Bottle Buttress DirectVS 4c *106
E3 5c 3
153PrangE1 5a 3
154Gotta lotta bottle
VS 4c 12
155Last Of The WineE3 6a 2
E4 5c 4
157Broken BottleE1 5b 26
158Childhood's End
E2 5c **49
159Clutching at Straws
E2 5c *9
160Age of Enlightenment
E1 5b *60
161Camp Freddies BoilVS 4c 1
162Central Rib Route IS 4a **1105
163Central Rib Route III
VD ***360
164Central Rib Route IIVS 5a *227
 Deceiver Buttress 
166John Bennett
E1 5b 2
167An Android's DreamE3 5c *3
168Do What You WantE5 6b **1
169Agent Orange
E2 5c 10
170Sleight of HandE1 5b *55
171Scaremonger6c+ **31
172Easier Said than Done7b **9
173The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver7a ***15
174Better Late than Never7a *12
175Stay Mellow6c+ *12
176Out-a-Sight7a+ **5
177'Yeeaaghhh!'7a 9
 Far South Bay 
179The Early Morning Traverse
VS 4
E2 5c 3
HVS 5b 8
182Themeninblack; the Soundtrack
E3 5c *2
183GretaHS 4b **313
184SentaHVS 5a 26
E3 5b **20
186ZeldaHS 4b ***1219
187Sweetest VictoryE2 5c 6
188Hunky Dore
E1 5a 13
189Waiting for Themeninblack
E4 6a 5
HVS 5a, 5a *233
191Gospel: According to ThemeninblackE4 6a 2
192LlamaE1 5b *13
193PumaHVS 5a **99
HVS 11
195CheetahHVS 5a **297
196Let Us PreyE1 5a **36
197The Ragged Edge
HVS 5a 23
 GO Wall 
199Never Say DieE2 5c *76
200Never SayE2 5b 8
201Never Say Never Again6c *104
202Eva Brawn7b+ *7
203JannockE4 5c 3
204Jannock DirectE4 6a/b 2
205BlitzkreigE4 6a *19
206Lion HeartE5 6a *8
207Der Führer
E3 5c *9
208Der Führer (direct start)E4 6a *8
209Kaiser Wall
E3 6a ***138
210Mein KampfE5 6b **9
211Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)7b *4
212Heil Hitler7a **135
213Heil Hitler! Pitch 17a *37
214Lurking Smear7a *87
215Lurking Sear7c+ *32
216Lurking Fear
E4 6a 2
217Stairway to Heaven
E2 5c **35
218King KongE1 5b ***517
E6 6c *1
220I'm Evil (Primeval direct)E6 6c ***1
221Vulture SquadronE3 6a ***30
222Big DongE3 5c *24
223Howling at the MoonE5 6a **8
224Interstellar Overdrive
E5 6b ***1
225Empire State ExperienceE4 5c 6
226Kangaroo WallE2 6a ***206
227Crocodile Tears
E4 6b 2
228Cat Gut
E4 * 
229Hyena CageE4 6a ***41
230Dog Eat DogE5 6a ***24
231The JackalE5 6a ***54
232FelineE5 6b ***11
233Endangered Species
E3 5c 8
234Natural Selection
E3 5c 1
235ZebrazoneE2 5b 17
236I Used to Be a Werewolf...
E3 5c 2
237Chase Darkness Away
E2 5b  
238Tony6c+ 6
239John7a 3
240SurrealistE1 5b **175
241FugaziE1 5c 7
242Beside MyselfE3 5c 4
E1 5b 5
244Come and Get It
E1 5c  
VS 4c 5
246Uriah Heap
E1 5b 1
VS 5a 1
248What's New Pussycat?
E5 6a  
249Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction
7c ***25
E4 6b 1
251Parasol for a Beautiful Day
A1 1
7c * 
253Big Bad Wolf
E6 6b **2
254Slinkin' Leopard
E3 6a * 
255Joe the Lion
E3 6a 10
256Joe the Lion (direct start)
E5 6b  
257The Isle of Dogs7a+ *23
258In Quarantine
E2 5c 3
259Fond Adieu
E4 6b *6
260Never Say GoodbyeE2 5c 127
E4 6b  
262Liquid LeatherE3 6a 14
263Surreal Thing7a+ 20
264Hell: Just for Leather
7b 10
265Power Games
E4 6b *5
266Captain BeakyE2 5c *10
267One Cockatoo
E3 6a 1
268The Real Macaw
E3 6a 1
269Blow the House Down
E5 6b * 
270The Perfumed GardenE1 5b 45
271Kama SutraHS 4a 23
272Blossom and Blood
E2 5b 1
273Face Transplant
E4 6a  
274Clank, Honk, Tweet
HVS 5a  
275The Umbrella GirdleE2 5c **13
276Zebra Crossing
E3 5c **1
277Burning Giraffe
HVS 5a *55
E5 6b  
E3 5c  
280Enter the Dragon
E4 6b  
281Animal Magic
E4 6a  
282Real to Reel Extension
E2 5c 1
283Flanders Field
E4 6a  
284King Louie
E2 5b  
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Sunny Wall 
286DaydreamHVS 4c 2
287Nightmare of Brown Sugar
E3 5c *41
288Nightmare of Brown TrousersE5 6a *1
289The Devil's TrousersE4 6a *5
290Lady Tata and the camels ballsE2 5b 1
291C.W.A. for the Mitchell BrothersE3 5b 2
292Delicious6a 28
293Hannah Madden's RainbowE2 5c *1
294Elementary Dear WatsonE1 5a 1
295Still Nice and Still Sleazy6a+ **317
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Basement Lift 
297Schrodinger's Cat, Earl6b *12
298Heisenberg's Uncertain Reach.6b+ *25
299Out of your tree
5c 140
300Dog Dave AfternoonE3 5c 1
301See It, Sort It!6b 11
6a 126
303Much Zebu Crudness6b **110
304A Parched LandscapeHVS 4b 5
305Let That Be A Lesson4c *108
 Woodcroft Quarry - Upper Lift 
307The Ice MirrorE3 5c **4
308Playing Hooky6a+ 7
309Forty Years Apiece4c 14
310Men Without HatsVS 4c 2
311Back on the GameVS 4c 18
312Passing The BuckVS 4c 2
E2 5b 6
314Industrial Disease
HVS 5a 9
315Tea for One6a+ 35
316Meeting on a Jet Plane6a 16
 Woodcroft Quarry -Gunshot Sector/Latin Quarter 
318Lord Haw HawE3 5c 1
319A Blast from the Past6c *112
320Gunshot Wound to the Head6c+ 145
321First Steps
E2 5b 2
322Don't Lower the Tone7a+ 38
323A Slender ThreadE3 6a *4
324Caveat Emptor6a 73
325Dog of the Month6a+ 89
326Henry Sucks5b 12
327Be Gentle4c 58
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Amphitheatre 
329Brexit Inbreds GrooveHVS 5a 2
330Moving On Up6a *228
331A Bit On The Side6a 86
332Slimming in the Rain4c 185
333Rippled and Toned7a 71
334The Fire Escape
E2 5b 21
335Lean Dark Hombre6c+ 46
336Two Mules for Sister Sara6b+ 40
337Bronco LayneHVS 5a 3
338Betty Boo
E2 5b 3
339Kebab Please;Make it GreasyE5 6a 1
340Ally Oops
E2 5b 14
341Raison d'Être
E3 5c 4
342Military Discount7b+ **4
343Cum Black JohnnyE3 5c 15
344Saudi air6b 134
345Saudi Air (right hand variation) 7b 1
346GeyerHVS 5a 8
347Razors EdgeHVS 5a 9
 Woodcroft Quarry -Not The Warehouse Wall 
349Rocking RobinHVS 5a 1
350Don't give a flying FridgeE2 5b 1
351First of ManyVS 4b 5
352Dooglie Ooglie6c 10
353Are they inviting6b 25
354The New Neighbour6a+ 8
355The Italian G6c 16
356The Boy Did Good6a+ 21
357My Friend GooHVS 4c 1
 Fly Wall 
359GadflyVS 4c 11
360PapillonE2 5b *183
361ButterflyVS 4c *654
362MothHS 4b *634
363Time Flies
E2 5b 5
364Flies Rise
HVS 5a *92
VS 4c 42
366PeasantVS 4b 7
367Bzzz SplatHVS 5a 8
368Fly or DieE3 5c 10
369SwatterHVS 5a *229
370Fly LogicE4 6b 11
371The SplitVS 5a *388
372Muchos ButchosE2 5b 3
373Split Flies
E3 6a *47
374EclipticE1 5b 110
375Mosquito Bite
E1 5b *88
376African Killer BeeVS 4c **348
377PhoenixHS 4b 248
378Dazed and Confused
HVS 5a *145
379A Fly In The EyeE3 5c *65
380FreedomVS 4c ***589
381Freedom Direct Left FinishHVS 5a 3
382Freedom DirectHVS 5b 52
383Swallow's NestVS 4c **518
384FlyawayE1 5a 10
385FlyteHVS 5b *35
386Fly Havoc
E3 5c 8
387FlyholeVS 4b,5a 90
388Balls Out
E2 5b *34
389Bulging Flies
E2 5c 63
390Fly The FlagE4 6a **6
391FlyoverE3 6a **40
392FlypastE3 5a,6a 6
393Strangled Fly
E3 6a 1
394La Folie
E4 6a ***31
E2 5c ***127
396WurlitzerE1 5c **209
397I FlyE4 6a 1
398Lord of the Flies
E2 5b *14
E4 5c **40
400DragonflyHVS 5a *193
401Jet StreamE3 5c *2
402ZipperE2 5b 7
403Little FlyE2 5b *9
404Big Fly
405Big Fly DirectE1 5a ***186
406IdealistE5 6a **1
407Flies AloftE4 6a/b ***4
408Jos'e and the FlyVS 5a 79
409That Nice RouteE1 5b 4
410The Height BelowE3 5b,5c 2
411End of the AffairE1 5b 3
412EndgameHVS 5a/b 7
VS 3
414Mr Blissful went to BristolE3 5b *1
415Rear AdmiralE2 5c 1
416The Man From Uncle
E2 5b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer springfall2008