Climbs 13
Rocktype Granite

Faces W

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American Dream, E1, 5B, Zawn Kellys © Brian H

Crag features

Not huge, but with some high-quality routes - almost all are E1 and above. Mostly single-pitch routes up to 150ft. Highly recommended: American Dream (E1 5b) and Broad Street (E4 6b).

Approach notes

Tidal, mostly accessible only three hours either side of low tide.
Approach from Porthgwarra, following the coast path. Zawn Kellys lies below a marshy (beware) area of the cliff.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Funeral For a Friend
E4 6c **  
2 Club Route
3 Omegaman
HVS 5a  
4 The Arch
E1 5b * 4
5 American Dream E1 5b *** 75
Climb name Grade
6 Second Skin
E2 5b  
7 The Screw
E3 6a *  
8 Broad Street
E4 6b **  
9 The Big Easy
E3 5c  
10 Hare Krisna
E3 5c  
Climb name Grade
11 Who Knows Where The Nose Goes
E1 5b  
12 Three Seals Watching
E2 5b 2
13 Farewell to Stone
E5 6a ***  

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