Climbs 13
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

American Dream, E1, 5B, Zawn Kellys © Brian H

Crag features

Not huge, but with some high-quality routes - almost all are E1 and above. Mostly single-pitch routes up to 150ft. Highly recommended: American Dream (E1 5b) and Broad Street (E4 6b).

Approach notes

Tidal, mostly accessible only three hours either side of low tide.

Approach from Porthgwarra, following the coast path. Zawn Kellys lies below a marshy (beware) area of the cliff.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
West Cornwall & Supplement (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Funeral For a Friend
E4 6c ** 
2Club Route
HVS 5a  
4The Arch
E1 5b *4
5American DreamE1 5b ***75
6Second Skin
E2 5b  
7The Screw
E3 6a * 
8Broad Street
E4 6b ** 
9The Big Easy
E3 5c  
10Hare Krisna
E3 5c  
11Who Knows Where The Nose Goes
E1 5b  
12Three Seals Watching
E2 5b 2
13Farewell to Stone
E5 6a *** 

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