Rockfax Description
A great route set in a beautiful cove. High in the grade. Start left of a massive chimney at a small corner.
40m. Climb the corner to a ledge. Move up slightly left and then rightwards to a prominent right-facing flake-crack. Climb the flake-crack past a small overhang and then on to below another overhang. Climb the steep left-hand crack above the overhang and its continuation to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Ian MK 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Fantastic stuf!

with Anna
Hidden 31/May/17 Lead O/S
robgixer 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
beni 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
manbat 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, one of the best E1s I've done. Sustained, thought provoking climbing. Lots of gear, and rock generally sound.

with Laura Packford
Hidden ?/Aug/16 2nd β
switch 03/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Andy S, Dave H
Dilwat 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S


with Dave P
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
NickJH 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Andy Dunhill
ferdia 05/Jul/15 2nd
Misha 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Good line, good climbing, good gear and pretty steady - didn't think it was top of the grade as per Rockfax. A few deals bobbing around and a lovely spot.

with Ferdia
Slick 06/Apr/15 2nd
alastairbegley 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

route was outstanding, 40m of sustained, well protected and interesting climbing. One of my top routes. Felt like standard E1 to me.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim M 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 15/Jun/14 2nd
NancyJones 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
Justin T 19/Apr/14 Lead

Self-sandbagged by recalling the rockfax description of climbing the left-hand crack above the top roof. There is a crack out of the left end of the roof which seemed to me the natural line but pulls onto a 25' gearless pebbledash slab top-out. Started up this but quickly reverted to pulling out on ab rope as holds started crumbling under my fingers - not a 3* experience! Having re-read the topo the route pulls over right of the vague arete and follows what looks like a steep layback crack. Quite beside this I'd have to say the rock quality up to that point isn't above suspicion either - variety of crumbling footholds and hollow rock in places.

with Nancy
gripped01 25/Aug/13 Lead

Brilliant, just keeps on giving.

with Alex Tomczynski
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Best pitch of its standard on Cornish granite?

kingholmesy ??/2013 2nd O/S
with Colin
Jim Slater 04/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Top class. Favourite route of the two week West Country fest, thus far!! Steep but steady at E1, great gear and awesome moves & situations

Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead

Excellent pitch

with Laura
Steve Waters, Mynydd 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Got a third of the way up when a huge wave came in which lifted Mike off his feet (luckily the belay nut held him) and the ropes were swept into a kelp-tangled knot around various boulders. Given the situation and given that this was only 15 minutes after low tide we decided to abandon the attempt but I will return when the sea is calmer as this is a super route.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd
Ian Jones 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S

We suspect Sir Roger went way off route thus creating a * E3! Only the most blatantly obvious line on the coast.

with Major Daniel Moore, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Marti999 23/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with James Raitt
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/09 2nd
with Nick Donahue
nickdonohue ?/Sep/09 Lead

a superb climb, on the best E1s I've done... quite tidal so make sure to maximise your time (Ash was anxiously perched on a boulder & just avoided wet feet!)

with Ashley Hold
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
pete johnson ?/Aug/06 2nd
with Rick Newcombe
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S


with Laura
Hidden 09/Apr/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/00 Lead O/S
cem 23/Apr/00 2nd
Bullybones ??/2000 Lead
Ally Smith ??/1999 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 14/Jul/98 -
with MT, SF
lost.arrow 26/Apr/97 Lead
with Julie Bond
Hidden ?/Apr/96 -
Hidden 01/Sep/95 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/95 2nd
Mark Kemball 27/Jul/94 Lead
with Matt Vigg
GAtkins 10/Oct/93 2nd O/S
with Jonny Baker
Roget 18/Sep/93 2nd O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Jul/90 2nd O/S
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 2nd
with Mathew
Mike Owen 28/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 21/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/81 -
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