Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Climbing at Tintern Quarry © Tom Heslam

Crag features

A monstrously large quarry with an air of calm seclusion,A must for the experienced or those seeking adventure,There is something here for everyone with year round climbing on mostly single pitch sports routes up to 50 metres,plus a good handful of trad routes.
A warning to the inexperienced or the uninitiated,outside of the main climbing areas the unsettled and loose nature of the rock make this an extremely dangerous place.

Approach notes

Tintern Quarry is reach from Tidenham Chase in Gloucestershire,Not Tintern in Gwent. 

Head north from Chepstow on the A48 for one mile,Take a Left onto the B4228 Tutshill,Hang Right at the mini roundabout,Approximately two miles from here take a left onto an unsigned lane(Just before Miss Grace's Lane),Two hundred yards in there is Parking to the right of the green gate.Tintern Quarry is a five minute walk on the track that descends Beyond green gate on the left. Shorn Cliff can be reached via the wooden gate on the right.

IMPORTANT: Please do not block any of the gates (the green, Tintern Quarry, or the wooden one, Shorn Cliff). These are very important to facilitated the access of emergency services in case of an emergency so it can save your own life.

Access Advice

The landowner has recently informed the BMC and climbers on site that he does not allow climbing in the quarry. Several unsucessful attempts have been made meet with the landowner, but no response has been forthcoming so far. Anyone climbing the the quarry may asked to leave - if this happens, please do so politely.

I was asked to leave on 26th Aug 2017. It took some persuading to let one of us go up a final time to retrieve quickdraws. The number of signs seemed to have increased recently. Think there's probably a renewed focus to keep people out
kieranbowen - 29/Aug/17
Today I got a call from a "representative" of the owner asking me to not climb neither encourage anyone to climb at the Quarry. That may mean tha the owner may be more active trying to prevent people to climb at the quearry. I commented in the BMC crag website. As previous comment says " if asked to leave, please do so politely".
FernandoHidalgo - 18/Jul/16
Despite several requests, no negotiations have been forthcoming, and so the advice in my previous comment to avoid the crag is withdrawn - the BMC are not making any recommendations as to whether you should climb here or not. However, please note that the landowners have indicated that they do not wish climbing to take place and so anyone doing so may be asked to leave - if asked to leave, please do so politely. Rick Sewards BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
While clarification is being sought from the landowner as to the reasons for his actions, I would recommend that climbers please avoid climbing in the quarry for the moment - I will update this notice when I have more information Rick Sewards, BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Rick Sewards - 08/Sep/14
ACCESS ISSUES TODAY: We turned up today (Sun 7th Sept) late morning, but a guy showed up in a transit van in the quarry itself and shouted across that he was the owner, the quarry had been deemed 'unsafe', and that everyone had to leave within 30mins. I've reported it to the BMC
Steve Bartle - 07/Sep/14
Tintern is a huge quarry unfortunatly there is a lot of very loose & dusty routes, though if you look around you can find some very good climbing, particularly on the red dust wall. Don't forget to wear a helmet when climbing and belaying.
SC - 11/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  CLIMBS DESCRIBED RIGHT TO LEFT
  Entry wall
3 Point of Principle 5a 139
4 Bigfoot 5c 105
5 Test of Time 6b 14
6 Hunker in the Bunker
-
6a 26
7 Burning Embers 6b 119
8 The Unkindest Cut Of All 6a+ * 245
9 Dispossessed 6c ** 150
10 Star Ship Troopers 5c 199
11 Irish Mist 7a+ 17
12 Dwarves' Dilemma
-
6b * 47
13 Phantom Menace
-
6a+ 13
14 Clicking for Contraband 6a 6
15 Alter Ego 5c 23
16 Trojan Horse
-
6a 22
17 Smoking Gun+Delicate Balance 6b+ 4
18 Star Fighter
-
6a 3
  Lower Red Dust Wall
20 Mynydd Presili
-
6a+ 4
21 Five Frogs On A Log 4c 34
22 Waltzing With Raptors
-
VS 4b  
23 Anuta 6b 13
24 Dogs of Jaw
-
HVS 5a 5
25 Cherry lips 5c * 12
26 Dust Devil (1) 5c 82
27 When I Said Sweet I Meant Dirty! 7b 11
  Upper Red Dust Wall
29 Chossticks 4c 13
30 Megabyte 5a 6
31 Bad News for Druids
-
6a 17
32 Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
-
6a+ * 66
33 Boltisaurus E1 5b 4
34 Pocketful Of Kryptonite
-
6a * 168
35 Ammonite 6b 68
36 The Strange Attractor
-
HVS 5a 16
37 Fragrance Abuse 6c+ * 27
38 No Woman, No Cry 7c * 11
39 Peace and Quiet in the Heart of the Riot 7b+ ** 22
40 He's Beautiful, It's True 7a+ * 27
41 Man In Tears 7b+ * 35
42 The Dead Vei 7a+ * 52
43 Dust Devil (2) 6b * 245
44 Ashes to Ashes 6c+ ** 57
45 Eleventh Hour
-
7b+ 2
46 The Last Temptation 6c * 5
47 Sauropods 6b+ * 43
48 Dust Buster
-
HVS 5b 11
  Strawberry Wall
50 Geeks are Human Too 6a+ 20
51 Compact and Bijou 6c 20
52 Shake'n'Vac
-
6c * 23
53 Consumer Choice 5c 19
54 The Buddleia Must Die 6b+ * 80
55 footloose 5c 38
  The Crystal Towers
57 Diamonds and Dust
-
6b+ * 55
58 Broken Glass 6b+ * 69
  Jurassic Wall
60 Fate of Nations
-
E2 5b  
61 more is never enough 6c * 41
62 Raptor
-
6b ** 51
63 just another rush 6c+ * 20
64 Raving rostov
-
6b+ 4
65 Full Stretch
-
6b 18
66 Classic Jurassic
-
6b+ 9
  Sunnyside Wall
68 Target Practise 6b+ 44
69 Mistaken Identity 6b+ * 139
70 Phil in the Gaps 6a * 283
71 Rock Juggler 6a+ 83
  Mesozoic Wall
73 Better than Nothing
-
4c  
74 Only Just
-
4a  
75 Just This One
-
6b  
76 Martyn's and Gordon's Corner Crack
-
HVS 4c  
77 Snap, Crackle, and Pop
-
6b  
  Thirty Foot Wall
79 Dinomania 6a+ 127
80 Mother of Pearl 6a+ 38
81 Cool Cymru VS 4b 11
82 Dinofever
-
6a+ * 208
83 Humbolt 3c 269
84 Hyperwar 4c 242
85 Hyperactive 5c 193
86 Just a Mo
-
5a 215
87 Feline Groovy 4a 212
88 Life's A Dance HVS 5a/b 8
89 Home is where the URL is 5a 190
90 Toys 4 Boys 3c 195
91 So, Graham Norton 3c 153
92 Puffed Daddy 4a 197
93 Land of Hype and Glory 5a 250
94 Don't panic, Climb Organic. 5c 183
95 More Fluff than Stuff 4a 74
96 Sea of Change 4a 148
97 Ghetto Fabulous 4a 156
98 Box of Tricks 4a 154
99 Break Like the Wind
-
VS 4c 17
100 Mojo Man 4a 71
101 Deja Vu
-
6b 151
102 Crow 6a 150
103 Windoze 4c 121
104 Trilobite 5a 126
105 Cat Litter HVS 4a 5
  CLIMBS DESCRIBED LEFT TO RIGHT
  The Lunar Landscape
108 Terrific Triassics
-
6c 10
109 Burning Issue
-
7a 3
110 Bristol Cream
-
6c+ 4
111 Bristol Cream (alt. finish) 6c+ * 2
112 Supergirly 6b 4
113 Supersaurus 1
-
6a+ 2
114 Supersaurus 2
-
5c 1
115 Supersaurus 3
-
4c 2
  Gatecrasher Wall
117 Back from Beyond 6a 31
118 Top Cat 6a+ * 47
119 Leaping Libidos
-
6a+ 49
120 Pussyfoot 7a ** 5
121 Quip-U for Leisure 6c+ * 9
122 True Love 6a+ 11
  Pine Tree Wall
124 Cupid's Arrow
-
6a 10
125 Heart's Desire 5a 12
126 Virtual Reality 4a 20
127 Word Perfect
-
4c 33
128 Candy Flip (1)
-
HVS 5a 6
129 Vice or Virtue 6b * 14
130 Candy Flip (2) 5c 15
131 Lakota (1)
-
VS 4c 12
132 Martyn & Gordon Go Large
-
6a+ 16
133 Karanga
-
6c 15
134 Lakota (2) 5c 10
135 Creation 4c 14
136 Walk the Talk
-
VS 4c 1
137 Polish Your Prejudices
-
6b+ 2
138 Misplaced Concerns
-
E2 5b 3
139 Pine tree groove 6a 14
140 Placebo 6a 7
141 While the cat's away the mice do play 2a 8
142 Sun,Sand,Sea,and Sex
-
6a  
143 Raki
-
VS 5a 1
144 Kamikaze
-
6b+ 1
145 Tokyo Express
-
E2  
146 Tora Tora Tora 5c 4
147 Man with No Friends
-
HVS 4b  
  Spanish Wall & New Labour Wall
149 Bastardo Gordo
-
6a+ 13
150 Prescott - Twice a Night 6a+ 6
151 Blair - Which Project? 6b 5
  Chaos Wall
153 Chaos Crack
-
HVS 5a 1
154 Fractal
-
E1 5b 1
155 An Unkind Cut E1 5b 9
156 Preserve those plums!
-
5c 6
157 Prima Gravida
-
6a+ 3
158 Peace and Quite in the Heart of the Riot
-
6b+ *  
159 Shake 'n' Vac
-
6c * 1
160 Unknown 7b - immediately lef of dust devil 7b 1
161 the Carpet Crawlers * 6c * 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer CraigMcAteer