Climbs 120
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 320m a.s.l
Faces S

Non eliminate version of Solid Air (6C+) © peewee2008

Approach notes

Turn right after 2nd gate and follow path alongside the wall, then zig zag up to crag.

Kestrels nesting on the Pillar, so best stay clear of this area until late June.     9th April 2017

Access Advice

Permission is no longer required to climb here. However, access still relies on a permissive agreement for passage through the grazing land. Please use the stiles and ensure all gates are closed.

There is a permanent dog ban in place under CRoW at the crag and the surrounding land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 20 April to 20 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels regularly nest on Eastby Buttress - if the birds are present avoid routes on this buttress until the young have fledged (usually by the end of June).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014)

Out of print:
anyway - a better crag than it looks from a distance, and now properly open with the new access laws.
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
um... not sure the Padder has decking potential. The lower crux is well protected, the upper is a little above the gear but not that serious (especially if a side runner is used).
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
Nice crag, faces South so good all year. Lower graded climbs get a bit overgrown in spring / summer. Good in the VS to E2 region. "The Padder" is a good first E1 lead if you like slabs, but the crux is a bit exposed with serious decking out potential. Top rope it first if unsure
Tom - 22/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Solid Air Boulder
2 Palm Sunday f7C+ **  
3 Any Given Day
-
f7B+ 2
4 Solid Air
-
f7B  
5 Solid Air - non eliminate
-
f6C 6
  Bottom Right Hand Boulder
7 A Pair of Teeth
-
f6B 4
8 Aperitif Left
-
S 14
9 Aperitif Right
-
VD 16
  Left Hand Slabs
11 Apache VS 4c 6
12 Renegade MS 4
13 Blue Max
-
HVS 5a 4
14 Mr Grumpy
-
HS 4b 23
15 After Hours
-
D * 58
16 After Hours Variant
-
VD 5
17 Knuckle Walker
-
E1 5b  
18 Kestrel Wall MVS 4b 5
19 Opening Time
-
D 48
20 Jaywalk
-
MVS 4b * 14
21 Last Orders
-
VS 4c 47
22 Descent Slab HS 4b 19
23 Cracked Slab D 19
  Pillar Front Buttress
25 Mantelshelves HS 3c 116
26 Eastby Groove S 4a * 190
27 Eastby Groove Variations VS 4c * 9
28 Heather Flake VS 4c 155
29 Swastika HVS 5b * 45
30 Pillar Front E2 5b *** 194
31 Pillar Front Left Hand Finish
-
E2 5b  
32 The Blinkered Variant E3 5c * 9
33 Mistaken Identity
-
E1 5b * 31
34 Pillar Rib VS 4c ** 571
35 Eastby Buttress VD *** 797
36 Eastby Buttress Variant VS 4c * 79
37 The Padder E1 5b * 321
38 Spiffing View
-
E1 5b 1
39 Action Traction
-
E4 6a 2
40 Whaup Edge VS 4b ** 263
41 The Mason's Arms
-
E1 5b 2
42 The Cavendish
-
VS 4c 9
43 Waterfall Chimney
-
D 7
44 The Experience of Age HVS 5b  
Climb name Grade
  Concave Slab
46 The Struggler
-
VS 5a 48
47 The Struggler (cop out)
-
HS 7
48 Wrong Trousers (The Struggler Inside Route) XS ?? 3
49 The Chipper
-
S 4b 18
50 The Direct Finish
-
E3 5c 6
51 Crossing the Line
-
E3 5c 10
52 Ship of the Line E3 5c * 6
53 The Logical Finish
-
VS 4c 18
54 Broken Arete
-
M 52
55 Impetus f5 3
  Knuckle Slab
57 Aretus
-
f6A 1
58 One Cold Day
-
E3 6a 3
59 Scoop and Crack S 4a * 335
60 Knuckle Slab Arete HVS 5b * 70
61 Knees Up Mother Brown HVS 6a * 15
62 Index Variation VS 5a ** 271
63 Knuckle Slab HVS 5a * 278
64 Enemas of the Estate
-
VS 4b 15
65 Birch Tree Crack VD 86
66 Early Doors
-
MS 34
  Nose Buttress
68 Lobe
-
HVS 5b 10
69 Ecky Thump E3 5c * 2
70 Thumper Direct
-
E5 6a 6
71 Thumper E4 5c *** 62
72 Filtrum
-
E2 5c ** 3
73 Ill Gotten Gains
-
f8A+  
74 Ill Gotten Gains Direct f8A 3
75 In The Third person
-
f7B+  
76 Bambi E1 5b 5
77 Nose Climb S 4a *** 510
78 Nose Climb Original S 4a * 128
79 Rock and Roll HVS 5a 12
80 Recess Crack
-
MS 10
81 Lucy
-
E1 5b 5
82 Birch Tree Slab MVS 4b 10
83 Dawn Till Dusk VS 5a 6
84 Not Tonight Josephine VS 4c 4
  Disco Slab
86 Disco 2000 f6B * 2
87 Deborah's Groove
-
f6B 1
  Mist Slab
89 Mist Slab
-
MVS 4b 26
Climb name Grade
90 Mist Slab Direct
-
HVS 5b * 15
91 Slab and Chimney VD 50
92 Cheshire Cat
-
E4 6b 1
  Block Buttress
94 The Stone Room
-
E6 6c  
95 Genuflex
-
E3 6a * 12
96 Block Buttress
-
HVS 5a * 102
97 Hangs
-
E4 6a 4
98 Thrutch
-
S 8
99 Hatchback Forager
-
HVS 5a 25
100 Pullover
-
VS 4c 43
101 Stepover
-
MVS 4b 67
102 Corner Crack
-
S 30
103 Corner Groove
-
S 23
104 Wall Arete VS 5a 4
  Left Hand Bloc Above
106 Diamond Arete f5 * 2
107 Diamond ArĂȘte SDS f6B+ * 3
108 White Goods Hugger f6A+ * 2
109 Sit Again f5+ 2
110 Conflicted Diamond
-
V5 1
111 Conficted Diamond SS
-
V7 1
  Defective Buttress
113 Easy Touch
-
E3 5c  
114 The Tide Continues
-
E6 6c  
115 Defective Too Early
-
E4 6b 3
116 Defective Direct
-
E4 6b  
117 Polytetrafluroethylene
-
S 6
118 Diacetylene
-
HVS 5b 4
119 Triacetylene
-
M 3
120 The Effervescing Elephant
-
E1 5a 1
121 Tetraphychicfluroethene S 2
  Over The Wall
123 Boldness of Youth
-
E2 5c 2
124 ConDemNation E1 5c * 9
125 Hung Parliament
-
E3 6a  
126 Accidental Baby
-
E1 5c 3
  Quarry
128 The Flake
-
S 2
129 Original Route
-
D 2
130 Waterfall's Crack
-
S 4a 5
131 Hollybush Groove
-
S 4a 4
  Far Right
133 Baby, Baby
-
VD 5
134 Dead Babies E5 6b ** 8
135 Dead Babies Direct E5 6c ** 1

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