Climbs 122
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 320m a.s.l
Faces S

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Non eliminate version of Solid Air (6C+) © peewee2008

Approach notes

Turn right after 2nd gate and follow path alongside the wall, then zig zag up to crag.

Kestrels nesting on the Pillar, so best stay clear of this area until late June.     9th April 2017

Access Advice

Permission is no longer required to climb here. However, access still relies on a permissive agreement for passage through the grazing land. Please use the stiles and ensure all gates are closed.

There is a permanent dog ban in place under CRoW at the crag and the surrounding land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 20 April to 20 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels regularly nest on Eastby Buttress - if the birds are present avoid routes on this buttress until the young have fledged (usually by the end of June).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014)

Out of print:
anyway - a better crag than it looks from a distance, and now properly open with the new access laws.
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
um... not sure the Padder has decking potential. The lower crux is well protected, the upper is a little above the gear but not that serious (especially if a side runner is used).
Stone Muppet - 31/Oct/05
Nice crag, faces South so good all year. Lower graded climbs get a bit overgrown in spring / summer. Good in the VS to E2 region. "The Padder" is a good first E1 lead if you like slabs, but the crux is a bit exposed with serious decking out potential. Top rope it first if unsure
Tom - 22/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Solid Air Boulder
2 Palm Sunday f7C+ **  
3 Any Given Day
-
f7B+ 3
4 Solid Air
-
f7B 1
5 Solid Air - non eliminate
-
f6C 6
  Bottom Right Hand Boulder
7 A Pair of Teeth
-
f6B 7
8 Aperitif Left
-
S 16
9 Aperitif Right
-
VD 18
  Left Hand Slabs
11 Apache VS 4c 6
12 Renegade MS 4
13 Blue Max
-
HVS 5a 4
14 Mr Grumpy
-
HS 4b 23
15 After Hours
-
D * 58
16 After Hours Variant
-
VD 5
17 Knuckle Walker
-
E1 5b  
18 Kestrel Wall MVS 4b 5
19 Opening Time
-
D 48
20 Jaywalk
-
MVS 4b * 14
21 Last Orders
-
VS 4c 48
22 Descent Slab HS 4b 19
23 Cracked Slab D 20
24 Blue Thunder f7A+ * 1
  Pillar Front Buttress
26 Mantelshelves HS 3c 118
27 Eastby Groove S 4a * 195
28 Eastby Groove Variations VS 4c * 10
29 Heather Flake VS 4c 163
30 Swastika HVS 5b * 49
31 Pillar Front E2 5b *** 209
32 Pillar Front Left Hand Finish
-
E2 5b 1
33 The Blinkered Variant E3 5c * 9
34 Mistaken Identity
-
E1 5b * 31
35 Pillar Rib VS 4c ** 556
36 Eastby Buttress VD *** 798
37 Eastby Buttress Variant VS 4c * 88
38 The Padder E1 5b * 333
39 Spiffing View
-
E1 5b 2
40 Action Traction
-
E4 6a 2
41 Whaup Edge VS 4b ** 270
42 The Mason's Arms
-
E1 5b 2
43 The Cavendish
-
VS 4c 9
44 Waterfall Chimney
-
D 7
45 The Experience of Age HVS 5b  
Climb name Grade
  Concave Slab
47 The Struggler
-
VS 5a 49
48 The Struggler (cop out)
-
HS 7
49 Wrong Trousers (The Struggler Inside Route) XS ?? 3
50 The Chipper
-
S 4b 18
51 The Direct Finish
-
E3 5c 6
52 Crossing the Line
-
E3 5c 10
53 Ship of the Line E3 5c * 6
54 The Logical Finish
-
VS 4c 19
55 Broken Arete
-
M 55
56 Impetus f5 3
  Knuckle Slab
58 Aretus
-
f6A 1
59 One Cold Day
-
E3 6a 3
60 Scoop and Crack S 4a * 310
61 Knuckle Slab Arete HVS 5b * 72
62 Knees Up Mother Brown HVS 6a * 17
63 Index Variation VS 5a ** 288
64 Knuckle Slab HVS 5a * 293
65 Enemas of the Estate
-
VS 4b 15
66 Birch Tree Crack VD 90
67 Early Doors
-
MS 35
  Nose Buttress
69 Lobe
-
HVS 5b 10
70 Ecky Thump E3 5c * 2
71 Thumper Direct
-
E5 6a 6
72 Thumper E4 5c *** 68
73 Filtrum
-
E2 5c ** 3
74 Ill Gotten Gains
-
f8A+  
75 Ill Gotten Gains Direct f8A 5
76 In The Third person
-
f7B+  
77 Bambi E1 5b 9
78 Nose Climb S 4a *** 501
79 Nose Climb Original S 4a * 133
80 Rock and Roll HVS 5a 12
81 Recess Crack
-
MS 10
82 Lucy
-
E1 5b 5
83 Birch Tree Slab MVS 4b 10
84 Dawn Till Dusk VS 5a 6
85 Not Tonight Josephine VS 4c 4
  Disco Slab
87 Disco 2000 f6B * 2
88 Deborah's Groove
-
f6B 1
  Mist Slab
90 Mist Slab
-
MVS 4b 29
91 Mist Slab Direct
-
HVS 5b * 16
Climb name Grade
92 Slab and Chimney VD 55
93 Cheshire Cat
-
E4 6b 1
  Block Buttress
95 The Stone Room
-
E6 6c  
96 Genuflex
-
E3 6a * 13
97 Block Buttress
-
HVS 5a * 109
98 Hangs
-
E4 6a 4
99 Thrutch
-
S 8
100 Hatchback Forager
-
HVS 5a 25
101 Pullover
-
VS 4c 43
102 Stepover
-
MVS 4b 67
103 Corner Crack
-
S 30
104 Corner Groove
-
S 23
105 Wall Arete VS 5a 4
106 Palm Sunday Stand f7B * 1
  Left Hand Bloc Above
108 Diamond Arete f5 * 2
109 Diamond ArĂȘte SDS f6B+ * 3
110 White Goods Hugger f6A+ * 2
111 Sit Again f5+ 2
112 Conflicted Diamond
-
V5 1
113 Conficted Diamond SS
-
V7 1
  Defective Buttress
115 Easy Touch
-
E3 5c  
116 The Tide Continues
-
E6 6c  
117 Defective Too Early
-
E4 6b 3
118 Defective Direct
-
E4 6b  
119 Polytetrafluroethylene
-
S 6
120 Diacetylene
-
HVS 5b 4
121 Triacetylene
-
M 3
122 The Effervescing Elephant
-
E1 5a 1
123 Tetraphychicfluroethene S 2
  Over The Wall
125 Boldness of Youth
-
E2 5c 2
126 ConDemNation E1 5c * 10
127 Hung Parliament
-
E3 6a  
128 Accidental Baby
-
E1 5c 3
  Quarry
130 The Flake
-
S 2
131 Original Route
-
D 2
132 Waterfall's Crack
-
S 4a 5
133 Hollybush Groove
-
S 4a 4
  Far Right
135 Baby, Baby
-
VD 5
136 Dead Babies E5 6b ** 11
137 Dead Babies Direct E5 6c ** 1

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