Climbs 53
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 430m a.s.l
Faces SE

Ben Tetler on the FA of The Last Mohican © Chris Tan

Crag features

The right-hand quarry is the larger and better of two quarries and is characterised by fierce cracks, aretes and overhangs giving routes up to 22m long of HVS and above. Starts and finishes are a little offputting on a few routes but any effort is rewarded. Sandy after rain. Definitely worth a visit for Piece of Pipe (HVS 5b), Turtle (?), or the stunning Renaissance (E4 6a) one of the best aretes on gritstone.

Approach notes

From Greenfield follow the 'Isle of Skye' Road (A635) for 2 1/4 miles to Upperwood House (an isolated farm on the right just before the road reaches the summit). Park opposite. The quarries are just behind the layby (slightly hidden from view). No dogs.

Access Advice

'Private Land' signs have appeared at some points along the boundary with the A635 road which has led to some confusion over whether access is permitted or not. This land is designated as Open Access and the public have a full legal right to access is for recreation on foot, including climbing. Please keep dogs on a lead to help avoid future difficulties.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
Turtle suffered from rockfall approx May 2013 - possibly E3 5c now
ste_d - 18/Jul/13
Shame this place is more of a dumping ground, not sure what the 12 or so propane cylinders are there for (maybe just to liven up the place).
Jonathan Hall - 28/Sep/11
Nice to see Renaissance upgraded to 6b at last. Would-be heroes shouldn't be put off however, as the weight of the grade is in the traverse left - once there the arete is quite steady if you like exposure. And the gear...well, that'd be telling.
Al Barker - 19/Jun/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gully Quarry
2 Psycho 2
-
E1 6b * 1
3 Chiseller's Choice
-
S 4b 5
4 Grumbling Groove
-
HVD 2
5 The Splitter
-
MVS 5b  
6 Finger Wall
-
HVD 10
7 Wall End
-
HS 4
8 The Cracks VS 4c 4
9 Grumpy Old Man V1 5b 2
10 Was All Sods VS 5a 2
11 Sod All
-
S 4c 5
  main quarry
13 Little Running Water VS 4c * 16
14 24 Carat Laughter
-
E2 5b  
15 Big Heap HVS 5b * 3
16 The Green Meanies E2 5b  
17 Heap Big Corner HVS 5a * 3
18 Cochise HVS 5b 1
19 Blazing Saddles E4 6a *  
20 Little Bighorn E5 6a  
21 Tomahawk E4 6a *  
22 Totem Corner HVS 5a  
23 Hawkwind E1 5b 1
24 Giteche Manitou E1 5b  
25 Play it Safe E4 6a *  
26 Piece of Pipe HVS 5b * 15
27 Pipe-line E3 5c *  
28 Waiting for an Alibi E5 6b *  
29 Pipe of Peace VS 4b 4
30 The Screaming Abdabs E3 6a *  
31 Turtle E1 5b ** 29
32 Edge Your Bets E6 6c ***  
33 Renaissance E4 6a *** 8
34 Give the Dogg a Bone E5 6b ** 1
35 Forked Tongue HVS 5b * 23
36 Paleface VS 4c 12
37 Hi Ho Silver
-
E4 6b  
38 How HVS 5a * 15
39 Iron Road E2 5c * 15
40 Renegade HVS 5a * 4
41 Wampum Wall S 4a * 17
42 The Last Mohican
-
E6 6b * 1
43 Yellow Peril E3 5b  
44 General Custard E3 6a * 1
45 Ugh
-
VS 4c  
46 Moccasins
-
VS 4b 1
47 Tickled Pink E1 5b * 1
48 A Man Called Horse HVS 5a 2
49 Muckyskins
-
VS 4c  
50 Psychotic Enaema Squad V9 ** 1
51 Indian Ink
-
HS  
52 Um Little Plum
-
VS 4c  
53 Geronimo
-
VS 5a 1
54 Adios Amigo E2 5b * 6
55 Cowboys and Indians E1 5c ** 1

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