Climbs 279
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 183m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Brian Rossiter enjoys the last rays of winter sun. © nigel baker

Crag features

The short crags of Giggleswick South conceal themselves exremely well amongst dense tree cover, and offer only tempting glimpses of grey limestone even in the middle of winter. The climbing at Giggleswick South is reasonable with a choice of styles from the newly developed easier grade sport climbs on the Lower South Buttress, to the limited number of short but rewarding traditional lines more often than not on superb rock located on the Upper Crag. For those bent on difficulty the G-Spot has a micro classic.

Approach notes

Giggleswick South is split into two areas - South Upper (plus the G-spot) and South Lower. Each area has its own parking and approach path as set out below. All approaches are from parking pull-offs located on the road that runs west out of Settle towards the A65 (Ingleton amd Kendal).

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
There is a wasp's nest on the first ledge of Atomic Kitten in the Garden Wall (just above the second bolt) - so avoid this as you'll pull right into it. Also affects Over the Garden Wall.
ebf - 21/Apr/19
Get over it. All that scree boulders around the bottom of the crag were once part of the crag. Its bloody limestone. If you don't want to climb loose rock get on the grit. Then you'll be moaning about the sand!!
Grit Wraith - 11/Apr/15
Loose rocks on cygnet chewer before the third bolt. A lot of loose stuff was coming down this afternoon, very busy up there.
thepinkwaffle - 06/May/13
Sector Swallows Nest is very loose, all the routes we climbed had a lot of suspect rock. A big block slid off the the bottom of The White Spider, landed 6 inches from where I was belaying.
1poundSOCKS - 26/Jun/11
Not a rockfall in the true meaning of the word - more a prolonged H and S session apparently ;-)
Bulls Crack - 13/Apr/11
There has been a big rockfall in the area around The Third Man. There is still some loose material waiting to fall so be careful crossing under this area.
Bob - 26/Sep/10
Apart from the Swan and Laughter buttresses plus the odd route here and there..dire. Short, loose and worthless sums up a lot/most of the routes.
Bulls Crack - 13/May/10
a great crag with a big veriation of routes when it sunny it gets very warm but is shelterd from the wind
Rob - 01/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The U-Bend
2 Leftmost bolted climb on U Bend crag 6a+  
3 Ducksqueezer's route 4c 12
4 Harry Tuttle, Heating Engineer 7b+ 29
5 Violent New Breed 9a+ * 1
6 Militia 8a+ ** 8
7 Wet Beaver 6c+ 1
  G-Spot
9 Ivy Rib HVS 5a  
10 Ivy Wall HVS 5b *  
11 Rib and scoop 5m right of tree HS 4b  
12 Left wall left hand bolt line 6a  
13 Hanging corner at right side of bulge between two bolt lines HVS 5a  
14 Left wall of cove right hand bolt line 4c  
15 Five Knuckle Shuffle HVS 5a  
16 Compact pillar and thin slanting cracks HVS 5b  
17 Ban This Filth E1 5b  
18 Giggler Treatment S 4a  
19 Flake/crack line 2m right of Giggler Treatment VS 5a  
20 Bagdad Cafe VS 5a * 2
21 Foreplay E1 5c 4
  Upper Crag
23 Gorgonzola VS 4b 18
24 Yew Tree Rib HVS 5a * 21
25 Yew Tree Corner
-
S 11
26 Pinnacle Direct VS 4b 19
27 February Wall VS 4c * 45
28 Epee
-
E2 5c 3
29 Broad Sword E3 5c *** 19
30 Broad Sword Direct E4 6a ** 4
31 Fine Speeding E5 6a * 3
32 Mutton Dagger E3 5c *** 82
33 Prime Cut E2 5b * 36
34 Cut a Line E4 6a * 6
35 Mint Sauce E2 5c * 26
36 Sir Loin E1 5c ** 65
37 Elimiwhat
-
E1 5b 1
38 Little Corner VS 5a * 39
39 Central Cracks S 4a 14
40 Flaker HVS 5b 12
41 The Glory Seekers E2 6a * 10
42 The Wally Hunters E1 5c 3
43 The Arches E1 5c * 76
44 Return of the Glory Seekers E2 6a * 8
45 Meerschaum HVS 5a * 81
46 Satori HVS 5b * 24
47 Too close for comfort E2 5c 1
48 Damage case E1 5c 5
49 Left-hand Siamese Twin HVS 5a 2
50 Right-Hand Siamese Twin VS 4c 9
51 Frank Bough's Party E4 6b  
52 Power Pinch E4 6b ** 7
53 Orient Express E2 5c 1
54 Go Johnny Go E2 5c ** 34
55 Slap and Giggle E1 5b * 38
56 Custard Crack VS 4b * 63
57 Touch and Go
-
HVS 5a 3
58 Dyno-Might E1 5c * 3
59 Blancmange MVS 4b 21
60 Lancaster Bomber
-
HVS 5a * 19
61 Spitfire VS 4c ** 15
62 Iron Wall Direct VS 4c *** 20
63 Iron Wall
-
HS 32
64 T-Bone MVS 4b * 28
65 Neck End VS 4c 6
66 Cheese and Crackers VS 4c * 8
67 Coffee and Cream VS 4c * 9
68 Flake and Groove
-
HVD 31
69 Sticky Toffee MS 7
70 Nice Buns VS 4c * 14
71 Summer Pudding
-
HS 4b 26
72 Thoughtafter VS 5a * 15
73 Afters
-
HS 4b 37
74 After 8 Crack HS 4b * 16
75 Jelly and Trifle S 4a 11
76 Trifle Wall
-
S 14
  Stone Cold Buttress
78 Mini Gem 5c * 144
79 Winter Warmer 5a 133
80 The Sun Trap 6a 129
81 Little Cracker 5c 108
82 Harvey 6b 71
83 Holly Tree Groove 5a * 147
84 Stone Cold Sober 6a 102
85 High Adventure 6a 14
86 Tipsy Crack 5a * 141
87 The D.T.s 4c * 9
88 The Primer 4c * 160
89 DDD 6c 5
90 Deus Ex Machina 6b+ 2
91 Under Pressure 6a+ * 139
92 Bella Calcio 6b ** 122
93 Mi Vida Loco 6c+ ** 21
94 Stone Cold Crazy 6c ** 48
95 Saving the Day 6a * 105
  Dressage Buttress
97 Whoa Boy 5b 10
98 Gee Gee Groove 6c * 2
Climb name Grade
99 How to Train Your Dragon 7a * 3
100 Crack the Whip 4c 23
101 Flying Change 6a 8
102 Shadbelly 6c 1
103 Well Shod 6a 11
  Sector Limelight
105 Wall Minor VS 4c 1
106 Gael
-
HVS 5a 4
107 Seven Up 5c 20
108 Twilight 6a * 33
109 Gael Force 6b 17
110 Blackout HVS 5a 7
111 Moseley Shoals 7b ** 6
112 Out of the Limelight 7a+ ** 27
113 Light Touch 6c+ * 7
114 Flake Out 6b+ ** 24
115 Underhand Arete 6c * 21
116 The Thin Blue Line 6a * 40
117 Ivy League 6a 14
  Anchor Buttress
119 Suspend-Eid 6b * 8
120 Comic Relief 6a 14
121 Chris Nick Direct 6a 8
122 Ground Up 5c 15
123 Weather Beaten 6a+ 10
124 Wicked Grin 6a+ 12
125 Midnight Brambler 6c ** 27
126 Bramble Jelly 5c * 29
127 Yorkshire Brambler 6b * 43
128 No Wavering 5c * 60
129 Low Stern 6b+ * 22
130 Rawhide 5c * 80
131 Bonanza 5b * 82
132 Two for One 5c * 46
133 Tomertil 6b * 43
134 Adjusted Hours 6a+ * 50
135 Walking with Dinosaurs 5c 4
136 One Hundred and Twenty-One Not Out 6a+ * 1
  The Wilderness Walls
138 Quivering Timber
-
VS 5a * 2
139 Nutbush 6a+ * 43
140 City Limits
-
E2 * 7
141 Suburban Sprawl 6b * 14
142 Uptown Girl 6b+ * 16
143 Salus Arete 6c+ * 5
144 Salus 6c * 23
145 Tusk 6b ** 48
146 Chance Encounter 6b * 11
147 Real Gone 6b 14
148 Yew'll be Lucky 5c 22
149 Road Block 6b+ ** 42
150 Freeway 6b ** 52
151 Slip Road 6a * 35
152 Slip Road Direct 6c 5
153 Fallen Heroes 6a+ * 17
154 Easy Lovin' 6b+ 9
155 Walk the Line 6a * 40
156 Rambling on my Mind 6a+ * 38
157 puckoon 5b * 129
158 Norman Wisdom 6a * 68
159 The Little Waster 6b * 61
160 Red Dwarf 6a * 71
161 Just Like That 5b 74
162 Little Britain 7a * 30
163 Get Shorty 6a+ * 68
164 Sergeant Bilko 6a+ 27
165 Maypole 5a 18
166 Morris Dancer 5c * 40
167 Home Economics 6b+ 5
168 Joker's Wild 6c 3
  Sector Bonhomie
170 Gunpowder Plot 5a * 93
171 Penny for the Guy 5c 70
172 Remember Remember 6c 9
173 Fire Cracker 6b 8
174 Amical Rivalite 6a+ ** 162
175 Fiddlefingers 6b+ ** 136
176 Pensile Wall E1 5b ** 21
177 Bonhomie (trad)
-
HVS 5a ** 32
178 Bonhomie 6a+ *** 233
179 Diversion 5c ** 289
180 Orange Wall VS 5a * 3
181 Peripherique 6b * 57
182 Tiger in the Woods 7a * 41
183 Tiger in the Woods Left 7a 7
184 Prowling Around 6b ** 77
185 Feline Fun 6b ** 49
186 Cat-Man-Do 6a+ * 65
187 Richard of York 6a * 121
188 Rainbow Wall VS 5a * 8
189 Rainbow Warrior 6b * 56
190 Swinging the Cat 6b 4
191 Gave Battle in Vain 6b+ ** 90
192 Malheureuse 6a ** 82
193 José Bové 6b 33
194 J(CB) Variant 6b+ * 12
  The Garden Wall
196 Buddy Red Cat 4c 163
Climb name Grade
197 Minnie 6a+ * 99
198 Mighty Mouse 6c+ * 74
199 Taking The Mickey 6a+ 128
200 Rat poison 6a * 203
201 Atomic kitten 6a * 246
202 Over The Garden wall 5c 247
203 Crazy Paver 6a+ * 97
204 Gerry Can VS 4c 1
205 The Constant Gardener 6a ** 198
206 Displacement Activity 6a+ * 94
207 Babel 5c 61
208 Loggerheads 5a 14
209 Gully Bulls Travels 6b+ * 5
210 Drummer Boy Deviant 6b+ 5
211 The Drummer Boy 6c * 6
212 No Holds Barred 6b+ * 9
213 Martha Victoria Jubiliee 7a 8
214 Ken's Cakewalk 6b 2
215 Squeak Too Soon 6c * 5
  Sector Laughter
217 Comic Strip 6b+ * 19
218 The Punch Line 6b+ * 39
219 Never Never Corner
-
HVS 5b * 4
220 Never Say Never 6a+ * 18
221 Finger of Fun 7a+ * 36
222 Last Stand 6a+ * 26
223 Slappy Christmas 6c * 13
224 The Best Medicine 7a * 96
225 One Foot In Gargrave 7a * 7
226 First Footing 6c 12
227 Evening Crack VS 4b * 3
228 Titter Ye Not 6c ** 43
229 Forced Laughter 7c  
230 Silent Laughter 7b *** 94
231 The Hoarse Whisperer 6c+ ** 14
232 Heavenly Whispers 6c+ *** 134
233 Bring Me Sunshine 7a 18
234 Arnold Palmer E1 5b * 10
235 Hustler HVS 5b * 4
236 Rib Tickler 6c ** 134
237 Lazy Days 6b ** 117
238 The Joker 6a+ * 107
239 Tee Off VS 4b * 3
240 The Gift 5c * 74
241 Mettle Would 6b+ 16
242 Funny Girl 5c 67
243 Lost Balls 6a+ * 30
244 Rock an' Droll 6c ** 5
  Sector Golf
246 Golf Course Crack VS 4c 3
247 Pitch 'n' Putt 6a+ * 131
248 Par Three 6c * 84
249 Four Iron 6c * 57
250 In the Rough 6b 34
251 A Good Walk Ruined 6b * 47
252 Out Of Bounds 4a ** 162
253 A Big Slice 6b 9
254 The Belfry 6b+ 4
  Sector Swans
256 She's Not Yew 5b * 246
257 It's Alright Mama 6a+ * 73
258 The Third Man 5a 44
259 The Third Man (trad)
-
VS 4c 1
260 Sun Sessions 6a+ 11
261 Henry Apprentice 6a+ 48
262 Harry Limestone 6b+ 45
263 Water Hazard 6a+ * 136
264 Practice Putt 6a+ 138
265 Chip off the Old Block 6a+ * 253
266 Match Play 5c 439
267 Chopping Block 6a+ 218
268 Swans to Steele 6a+ 124
269 Swan Lake 6c+ * 80
270 Get Out of Town 6c+ * 114
271 The Ugly Duckling 6a+ * 215
272 Swan Hunters 6b+ * 81
273 Cygneture Tune 5c * 353
274 Cygnet Chewer 5c 170
275 Wing Traverse VS 4c 11
276 Whooper 6b ** 163
277 Swansong 6a+ ** 252
278 Black Swan Rising 6b *** 408
279 The Mute Swan 6b *** 298
280 Mutant Sunshine 6b * 123
281 Cygnet Ring 6b 7
  Sector Swallow's Nest
283 First Pillar 5a 255
284 Exit Cracks 6b * 160
285 The Flat Iron 6a+ * 210
286 The Shattered Pillar 5c * 348
287 The Ice Hose 6a * 416
288 The White Spider 6a+ * 359
289 The Second Ice-field 6a+ * 349
290 Alpiglen 5c 531
291 Kleine Scheidegg 5a 465
292 Traverse of the Gods 6a 7
293 The Hinterstoisser Traverse 6b 6
  Trad Routes that need sorting

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