Climbs 209
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Atlantis © Mark Alderson

Crag features

The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Approach notes

South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.

Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. Please note the extended date for 2018.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South of Upper Tier
2 The sweet Smell of Excess
-
XS 5b  
  The Loathsome Cleft
4 Harry and Ida Swap Teeth
-
E2 5b  
5 The Brightness Beckons
-
E3 5b * 1
6 Hale Bop
-
E3 5c 1
7 FEU 123ELF
-
XS 1
  Skull Zawn
9 The Pipe Dragon
-
E5 5c *  
10 Who Dares Whinge
-
E5 6a **  
11 Sea Witch E6 6a *** 3
12 Mor Mochyn
-
E3 5c * 1
13 Mochyn Bach
-
E4 6a *  
14 Brain in a Vat
-
E2 5b * 3
  Trinity House Walls
16 Aussie Rules
-
VS 4c *  
17 Sam Shore
-
E1 5b * 1
18 Ray Mears
-
VD  
19 Troy Tempest
-
S 1
20 Oink
-
HVS 4c  
21 Aqua Marina
-
E2 5b *  
22 El Presidente
-
E5 6b **  
23 Idlevice
-
E5 6b *  
24 Scud
-
E3 6a **  
25 Karaoke Bar
-
E6 6b **  
26 Friend or Anemone
-
E4 6a ** 1
27 The Hood E2 5c ** 2
28 Walking the Plankton
-
E5 6a *  
29 International Rescue
-
HVS 5b * 2
30 Mr Waverley
-
HVS 5a ** 4
31 Mr Waverley with the International Rescue finish
-
HVS 5a ** 5
32 Even Cowgirls Get the Blues
-
HVS 5b * 4
33 Start Me Up
-
HVS 5a * 1
34 Parker
-
E3 5c  
35 Catch a Fire
-
E1 5b  
36 Rapping
-
VS 4b 1
  Thunderbird Zawn
38 Thrush VS 4c 5
39 Napolean Solo VS 4c * 3
40 Man from Uncle
-
E1 5a * 14
41 The Flying Shed E5 6a **  
42 The Prisoner
-
E2 5a * 1
43 Thunderbird
-
E4 5c ** 1
  South Stack Island
  Mousetrap Zawn
46 Linkage
-
VS 1
47 A Winter's Tale
-
E5 6a * 2
48 Two Fat Slabs
-
E5 6a * 2
49 Two Fat Dads
-
E5 6a ** 2
50 Hysteresis
-
E4 5c *** 17
51 Catatonia
-
E5 6a ** 2
52 The Final Front-Ear
-
E6 6b *** 3
53 Primate
-
E2 5b ** 48
54 Primevil
-
HVS 5a 6
55 Rosebud
-
E5 6a ** 1
56 The Green Slab HVS 4c * 42
57 Dai You Late
-
E6 6b * 1
58 Helmet Boiler
-
E5 5c * 1
59 Mousetrap E2 5a *** 351
60 Death Trap
-
E5 5b ** 2
61 Death Trap Direct E6 5c *** 2
62 The Head Strimmer
-
E4 6a * 1
63 Cannibal Pizza
-
E3 6a ** 5
64 Mantrap E3 5b ** 21
65 Another Roadside Attraction
-
E5 6a ** 5
66 Bedlam E3 5b * 5
67 Valdini XS 5a 2
68 Locarno
-
XS 5b  
69 The Original Girdle
-
E3 5b *  
70 The New Girdle
-
E1 5b * 4
  Left Hand Red Wall
72 Vena Cave
-
VS 4c 3
73 BSB
-
E1 5b  
74 Auricle
-
HVS 4c 2
Climb name Grade
75 The Horn of Plenty
-
HVS 5a  
76 Ceefax
-
HVS 4c 1
77 Alligator E2 5b * 4
78 Cannibal E4 5c ** 31
79 Schittlegruber E6 6b *** 11
80 Left-hand Red Wall E3 5c ** 46
81 Ramalina
-
E6 6b ** 2
82 Howell the Trowell
-
E7 6c * 2
83 Mein Kampf
-
E5 6a ** 6
84 Heart of Gold E5 6a *** 14
85 Heart of Gold Direct
-
E6 6a *** 15
86 Heart of Gold/Ramalina Combination E6 6b *** 1
87 The Super Calabrese
-
E8 6b * 3
88 The Super Duper Calebrese E6 6b *** 2
89 The Enchanted Broccoli Garden
-
E7 6b *** 4
90 Pagan E4 5c *** 51
91 Salem
-
E5 6a * 5
92 Deygo
-
E3 5c ** 29
93 Deygo/Infidel Direct E3 5c ** 3
94 Yarding Lard
-
E6 6b ** 2
95 Come to Mother E7 6a  
96 Infidel
-
E3 5c * 13
97 Infidel Direct E4 5c ** 12
98 Outside the asylum
-
E5 6a ** 11
99 Anarchy in the UK
-
E4 6a ** 7
100 Anarchist E1 5b * 147
101 Anarchist variation finish
-
E2 5c 1
102 Anarchist, The Gentlemens Finish
-
E3 6a 3
103 Care in the Community
-
E5 6a * 3
104 The Missionary
-
E4 5c ** 5
105 The Missionary-Maze link up
-
E4 5c *** 1
106 The Girdle Traverse
-
E3 5c * 1
  The Promontory
108 Puritan
-
VS 4c 1
109 Project!!! E11 7a  
110 Athiest
-
E4 6a * 1
111 Three men and a cake
-
E4 5c 1
112 Heathen
-
E1 5b 1
113 The Cruel Seam
-
E5 6b * 1
114 This is the Sea
-
E5 6a * 3
115 The Featherstone
-
E5 6b * 1
116 Smear Campaign E8 6c ** 1
117 Satan's Scream
-
E8 6c **  
118 Into the Light
-
E2 5c 1
119 Snatch in theStorm
-
E3 6a  
120 Red Warbler's
-
E4 6a 1
  Right Hand Red Wall
122 The Cree
-
E3 6a * 20
123 The Electrification of the Soviet Union
-
E4 6a * 8
124 Roger Melly
-
E4 6a 1
125 Terror Firma E5 6a ** 1
126 Television Route E4 5c *** 21
127 The safer Start!
-
E4 5c 5
128 Khmer Rouge
-
E5 6a ** 7
129 Blood Baarth
-
E5 6a  
130 Redshift
-
E4 5c ** 32
131 Dangerous liaison
-
E3 6a * 6
132 Bottom of the Pile
-
E2 5c 1
133 Red Wall Escape Route
-
VS 4c 13
134 Wendigo E2 5b *** 126
135 Last of the Summer Wine
-
E4 5c ** 2
136 Blue Remembered Hills E3 5c *** 35
137 Red Haze
-
E4 5c * 18
138 Rapture of the Deep
-
E4 5b ** 8
139 Red Wall E2 5b *** 181
140 Fantasia E3 5c *** 64
141 A Brown Study
-
E3 5c * 4
142 Communication Breakdown
-
E3 5c ** 6
143 Doppelgangen
-
E3 5b * 2
144 The Tiger's Den
-
E5 6a * 1
145 Fire and Grimstone
-
E5 5c * 1
146 The Maze
-
E4 5c ***  
  Castell Helen
148 Captain Nemo
-
E3 5c * 1
Climb name Grade
149 Nematoid
-
E3 5c 1
150 Black Light
-
HVS 4c * 7
151 Woodlight
-
HS 4a * 1
152 Fluorescent Ridge
-
VD * 3
153 Lighthouse Arete VS 4b ** 1236
154 Lighthouse Arete Direct VS 4c ** 541
155 Lighthouse Arete Direct/Blanco HVS 5a *** 100
156 A State of Saturation
-
HVS 5a 69
157 Blanco HVS 5a ** 476
158 Poseidon
-
VS 4c * 130
159 Poseidon/Blanco HVS 5a ** 76
160 Poseidon direct finish
-
E1 5a * 8
161 Pel VS 4c ** 666
162 Freebird
-
E1 5b ** 79
163 The Flight of the Do Do
-
E4 6a 2
164 North West Passage E1 5b *** 844
165 Rap VS 5a ** 982
166 True Moments
-
E1 5b ** 74
167 Caress of Steel
-
E2 5c 2
168 Atlantis E1 5c ** 291
169 True Moments/Freebird
-
E1 5b *** 156
170 Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird E2 5b *** 268
171 limping lisa
-
E2 5b * 38
172 Limping Badger E2 5b ** 2
173 Sloe Passage E4 6a * 3
174 Caught 'twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea
-
E4 6b * 2
175 Atlantic Wall "1990" E3 5c * 17
176 Atlantic Wall "2000"
-
E3 6b * 2
177 Hanging Out At Glastonbury E4 5c *** 26
178 Obelisk
-
E6 6b ** 2
179 Free Stone Henge
-
E6 6b *** 7
180 Vital Statistix
-
E8 6c ** 2
181 Kalahari
-
E3 5c ** 166
182 Kalahari Highway E4 6a *** 13
183 Drunken without Trace
-
E6 6b * 2
184 Gobi
-
HVS 5a 5
185 Where Puffins Daren't
-
HVS 5a * 24
186 Castell Helen Girdle E1 5b * 27
  Yellow Walls
188 The Savage E2 5b * 196
189 Book of Ages E5 6b * 6
190 Perygl
-
E3 5c ** 66
191 You E4 6a * 7
192 The Drunk E6 6b ** 12
193 The Moon E3 5c *** 434
194 Me
-
E6 6a ** 12
195 The Owl and the Pussycat
-
E6 6b ** 2
196 The Cow E5 6a *** 73
197 Ludwig
-
E6 6b *** 16
198 Beefhoven
-
E6 6b 2
199 The Yellow Shark
-
E7 6b ** 2
200 Dogs of War
-
E4 5c ** 31
201 The Sind
-
E3 5b ** 119
202 Isis is Angry
-
E7 6c *** 4
203 Creeping Lemma E2 5c *** 160
204 The Big Softy
-
E6 6a 2
205 Paddington
-
E3 5c  
206 Pterodactyl E3 5b ** 5
207 93,000,000 Miles
-
E4 5c * 5
208 Sign of the Sun Dog
-
E5 6b * 4
209 Not Yellow Wall Escape Route HVS 4c 2
  Blacksmith's Zawn
211 Spooners Struggle E2 5b *  
212 The Compass
-
E1 5b * 8
213 The Magic Roundabout
-
E6 6b * 2
214 Ermintrude
-
E6 6a ** 2
215 Angel Dust
-
E6 6a *** 3
216 Thug
-
E7 6b *** 1
217 The Bogle Roof
-
E6 6b **  
218 Red Rocket
-
E6 6b 2
219 Seven Types Of Angularity
-
E5 6b ** 3
220 Bats In The Belfry
-
E7 6b ***  
221 Back to Black Smith E2 5b * 2
222 The Light That Didn't Shine
-
XS *** 5

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