Climbs 205
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Atlantis © Mark Alderson

Crag features

The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Approach notes

South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.

Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrctions apply until the end of July.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South of Upper Tier
2 The sweet Smell of Excess
-
XS 5b  
  The Loathsome Cleft
4 Harry and Ida Swap Teeth
-
E2 5b  
5 The Brightness Beckons
-
E3 5b * 1
6 Hale Bop
-
E3 5c 1
7 FEU 123ELF
-
XS 1
  Skull Zawn
9 The Pipe Dragon
-
E5 5c *  
10 Who Dares Whinge
-
E5 6a **  
11 Sea Witch E6 6a *** 3
12 Mor Mochyn
-
E3 5c *  
13 Mochyn Bach
-
E4 6a *  
14 Brain in a Vat
-
E2 5b * 3
  Trinity House Walls
16 Aussie Rules
-
VS 4c *  
17 Sam Shore
-
E1 5b * 1
18 Ray Mears
-
VD  
19 Troy Tempest
-
S 1
20 Oink
-
HVS 4c  
21 Aqua Marina
-
E2 5b *  
22 El Presidente
-
E5 6b **  
23 Idlevice
-
E5 6b *  
24 Scud
-
E3 6a **  
25 Karaoke Bar
-
E6 6b **  
26 Friend or Anemone
-
E4 6a **  
27 The Hood E2 5c ** 1
28 Walking the Plankton
-
E5 6a *  
29 International Rescue
-
HVS 5b * 2
30 Mr Waverley
-
HVS 5a ** 4
31 Mr Waverley with the International Rescue finish
-
HVS 5a ** 5
32 Even Cowgirls Get the Blues
-
HVS 5b * 4
33 Start Me Up
-
HVS 5a * 1
34 Parker
-
E3 5c  
35 Catch a Fire
-
E1 5b  
36 Rapping
-
VS 4b 1
  Thunderbird Zawn
38 Thrush VS 4c 4
39 Napolean Solo VS 4c * 2
40 Man from Uncle
-
E1 5a * 11
41 The Prisoner
-
E2 5a * 1
  South Stack Island
  Mousetrap Zawn
44 Linkage
-
VS 1
45 A Winter's Tale
-
E5 6a * 2
46 Two Fat Slabs
-
E5 6a * 2
47 Two Fat Dads
-
E5 6a ** 2
48 Hysteresis
-
E4 5c *** 18
49 Catatonia
-
E5 6a ** 2
50 The Final Front-Ear
-
E6 6b *** 3
51 Primate
-
E2 5b ** 39
52 Primevil
-
HVS 5a 5
53 Rosebud
-
E5 6a ** 1
54 The Green Slab HVS 4c * 51
55 Dai You Late
-
E6 6b * 1
56 Helmet Boiler
-
E5 5c * 1
57 Mousetrap E2 5a *** 447
58 Death Trap
-
E5 5b ** 2
59 Death Trap Direct E6 5c *** 2
60 The Head Strimmer
-
E4 6a * 1
61 Cannibal Pizza
-
E3 6a ** 5
62 Mantrap E3 5b ** 20
63 Another Roadside Attraction
-
E5 6a ** 5
64 Bedlam E3 5b * 5
65 Valdini XS 5a 3
66 Locarno
-
XS 5b  
67 The Original Girdle
-
E3 5b *  
68 The New Girdle
-
E1 5b * 4
  Left Hand Red Wall
70 Vena Cave
-
VS 4c 1
71 BSB
-
E1 5b  
72 Auricle
-
HVS 4c 2
73 The Horn of Plenty
-
HVS 5a  
74 Ceefax
-
HVS 4c 1
75 Alligator E2 5b * 4
76 Cannibal E4 5c ** 29
77 Schittlegruber E6 6b *** 10
78 Left-hand Red Wall E3 5c ** 37
79 Ramalina
-
E6 6b ** 2
80 Howell the Trowell
-
E7 6c * 2
81 Mein Kampf
-
E5 6a ** 5
82 Heart of Gold E5 6a *** 20
83 Heart of Gold Direct
-
E6 6a *** 15
84 Heart of Gold/Ramalina Combination E6 6b *** 1
85 The Super Calabrese
-
E8 6b * 3
86 The Super Duper Calebrese E6 6b *** 2
87 The Enchanted Broccoli Garden
-
E7 6b *** 4
88 Pagan E4 5c *** 51
89 Salem
-
E5 6a * 5
90 Deygo
-
E3 5c ** 26
91 Deygo/Infidel Direct E3 5c ** 3
92 Yarding Lard
-
E6 6b ** 2
93 Come to Mother E7 6a  
94 Infidel
-
E3 5c * 13
95 Infidel Direct
-
E4 5c ** 12
96 Outside the asylum
-
E5 6a ** 9
97 Anarchy in the UK
-
E4 6a ** 7
98 Anarchist E1 5b * 139
99 Anarchist variation finish
-
E2 5c 1
100 Anarchist, The Gentlemens Finish
-
E3 6a 1
101 Care in the Community
-
E5 6a * 3
102 The Missionary
-
E4 5c ** 5
103 The Missionary-Maze link up
-
E4 5c *** 1
104 The Girdle Traverse
-
E3 5c * 1
  The Promontory
106 Puritan
-
VS 4c 1
107 Project!!! E11 7a  
108 Athiest
-
E4 6a * 1
109 Three men and a cake
-
E4 5c 1
110 Heathen
-
E1 5b 1
111 The Cruel Seam
-
E5 6b * 1
112 This is the Sea
-
E5 6a * 3
113 The Featherstone
-
E5 6b * 1
114 Smear Campaign E8 6c ** 1
115 Satan's Scream
-
E8 6c **  
116 Into the Light
-
E2 5c 1
117 Snatch in theStorm
-
E3 6a  
118 Red Warbler's
-
E4 6a 1
  Right Hand Red Wall
120 The Cree
-
E3 6a * 20
121 The Electrification of the Soviet Union
-
E4 6a * 8
122 Roger Melly
-
E4 6a 1
123 Television Route E4 5c *** 19
124 The safer Start!
-
E4 5c 5
125 Khmer Rouge
-
E5 6a ** 7
126 Blood Baarth
-
E5 6a  
127 Redshift
-
E4 5c ** 25
128 Dangerous liaison
-
E3 6a * 5
129 Bottom of the Pile
-
E2 5c 1
130 Red Wall Escape Route
-
VS 4c 13
131 Wendigo E2 5b *** 124
132 Last of the Summer Wine
-
E4 5c ** 2
133 Blue Remembered Hills E3 5c *** 31
134 Red Haze
-
E4 5c * 17
135 Rapture of the Deep
-
E4 5b ** 8
136 Red Wall E2 5b *** 163
137 Fantasia E3 5c *** 65
138 A Brown Study
-
E3 5c * 4
139 Communication Breakdown
-
E3 5c ** 5
140 Doppelgangen
-
E3 5b * 2
141 The Tiger's Den
-
E5 6a * 1
142 Fire and Grimstone
-
E5 5c * 1
143 The Maze
-
E4 5c ***  
  Castell Helen
145 Captain Nemo
-
E3 5c * 1
146 Nematoid
-
E3 5c 1
147 Black Light
-
HVS 4c * 6
148 Woodlight
-
HS 4a *  
149 Fluorescent Ridge
-
VD * 1
150 Lighthouse Arete VS 4b ** 1116
151 Lighthouse Arete Direct VS 4c ** 481
152 Lighthouse Arete Direct/Blanco HVS 5a *** 108
153 A State of Saturation
-
HVS 5a 55
154 Blanco HVS 5a ** 404
155 Poseidon
-
VS 4c * 118
156 Poseidon/Blanco HVS 5a ** 70
157 Poseidon direct finish
-
E1 5a * 4
158 Pel VS 4c ** 573
159 Freebird
-
E1 5b ** 65
160 The Flight of the Do Do
-
E4 6a 2
161 North West Passage E1 5b *** 774
162 Rap VS 5a ** 890
163 True Moments
-
E1 5b ** 65
164 Caress of Steel
-
E2 5c 1
165 Atlantis E1 5c ** 264
166 True Moments/Freebird
-
E1 5b *** 137
167 Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird E2 5b *** 264
168 limping lisa
-
E2 5b * 25
169 Sloe Passage E4 6a * 3
170 Caught 'twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea
-
E4 6b * 2
171 Atlantic Wall "1990" E3 5c * 15
172 Atlantic Wall "2000"
-
E3 6b * 2
173 Hanging Out At Glastonbury E4 5c *** 27
174 Obelisk
-
E6 6b ** 2
175 Free Stone Henge
-
E6 6b *** 6
176 Vital Statistix
-
E8 6c ** 2
177 Kalahari
-
E3 5c ** 167
178 Kalahari Highway E4 6a *** 11
179 Drunken without Trace
-
E6 6b * 2
180 Gobi
-
HVS 5a 4
181 Where Puffins Daren't
-
HVS 5a * 22
182 Castell Helen Girdle E1 5b * 25
  Yellow Walls
184 The Savage E2 5b * 168
185 Book of Ages E5 6b * 6
186 Perygl
-
E3 5c ** 60
187 You E4 6a * 7
188 The Drunk E6 6b ** 12
189 The Moon E3 5c *** 434
190 Me
-
E6 6a ** 12
191 The Owl and the Pussycat
-
E6 6b ** 2
192 The Cow E5 6a *** 75
193 Ludwig
-
E6 6b *** 15
194 Beefhoven
-
E6 6b 2
195 The Yellow Shark
-
E7 6b ** 2
196 Dogs of War
-
E4 5c ** 26
197 The Sind
-
E3 5b ** 107
198 Isis is Angry
-
E7 6c *** 4
199 Creeping Lemma E2 5c *** 147
200 The Big Softy
-
E6 6a 2
201 Paddington
-
E3 5c  
202 Pterodactyl E3 5b ** 4
203 93,000,000 Miles
-
E4 5c * 5
204 Sign of the Sun Dog
-
E5 6b * 4
205 Not Yellow Wall Escape Route HVS 4c 2
  Blacksmith's Zawn
207 Spooners Struggle E2 5b *  
208 The Compass
-
E1 5b * 7
209 The Magic Roundabout
-
E6 6b * 2
210 Ermintrude
-
E6 6a ** 2
211 Angel Dust
-
E6 6a *** 3
212 Thug
-
E7 6b *** 1
213 The Bogle Roof
-
E6 6b **  
214 Red Rocket
-
E6 6b 2
215 Seven Types Of Angularity
-
E5 6b ** 3
216 Bats In The Belfry
-
E7 6b ***  
217 Back to Black Smith E2 5b * 1
218 The Light That Didn't Shine
-
XS *** 4

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