Climbs 205
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Atlantis © Mark Alderson

Crag features

The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.

Approach notes

South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.

Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrctions apply until the end of July.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth South (2015)
Gogarth (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South of Upper Tier
2 The sweet Smell of Excess
-
XS 5b  
  The Loathsome Cleft
4 Harry and Ida Swap Teeth
-
E2 5b  
5 The Brightness Beckons
-
E3 5b * 1
6 Hale Bop
-
E3 5c 1
7 FEU 123ELF
-
XS 1
  Skull Zawn
9 The Pipe Dragon
-
E5 5c *  
10 Who Dares Whinge
-
E5 6a **  
11 Sea Witch E6 6a *** 3
12 Mor Mochyn
-
E3 5c *  
13 Mochyn Bach
-
E4 6a *  
14 Brain in a Vat
-
E2 5b * 3
  Trinity House Walls
16 Aussie Rules
-
VS 4c *  
17 Sam Shore
-
E1 5b * 1
18 Ray Mears
-
VD  
19 Troy Tempest
-
S 1
20 Oink
-
HVS 4c  
21 Aqua Marina
-
E2 5b *  
22 El Presidente
-
E5 6b **  
23 Idlevice
-
E5 6b *  
24 Scud
-
E3 6a **  
25 Karaoke Bar
-
E6 6b **  
26 Friend or Anemone
-
E4 6a **  
27 The Hood E2 5c ** 1
28 Walking the Plankton
-
E5 6a *  
29 International Rescue
-
HVS 5b * 2
30 Mr Waverley
-
HVS 5a ** 3
31 Mr Waverley with the International Rescue finish
-
HVS 5a ** 5
32 Even Cowgirls Get the Blues
-
HVS 5b * 4
33 Start Me Up
-
HVS 5a * 1
34 Parker
-
E3 5c  
35 Catch a Fire
-
E1 5b  
36 Rapping
-
VS 4b 1
  Thunderbird Zawn
38 Thrush VS 4c 4
39 Napolean Solo VS 4c * 2
40 Man from Uncle
-
E1 5a * 11
41 The Prisoner
-
E2 5a * 1
  South Stack Island
  Mousetrap Zawn
44 Linkage
-
VS 1
45 A Winter's Tale
-
E5 6a * 2
46 Two Fat Slabs
-
E5 6a * 2
47 Two Fat Dads
-
E5 6a ** 2
48 Hysteresis
-
E4 5c *** 18
49 Catatonia
-
E5 6a ** 2
50 The Final Front-Ear
-
E6 6b *** 3
51 Primate
-
E2 5b ** 39
52 Primevil
-
HVS 5a 5
53 Rosebud
-
E5 6a ** 1
54 The Green Slab HVS 4c * 51
55 Dai You Late
-
E6 6b * 1
56 Helmet Boiler
-
E5 5c * 1
57 Mousetrap E2 5a *** 426
58 Death Trap
-
E5 5b ** 2
59 Death Trap Direct E6 5c *** 2
60 The Head Strimmer
-
E4 6a * 1
61 Cannibal Pizza
-
E3 6a ** 3
62 Mantrap E3 5b ** 13
63 Another Roadside Attraction
-
E5 6a ** 5
64 Bedlam E3 5b * 5
65 Valdini XS 5a 3
66 Locarno
-
XS 5b  
67 The Original Girdle
-
E3 5b *  
68 The New Girdle
-
E1 5b * 4
  Left Hand Red Wall
70 Vena Cave
-
VS 4c 1
71 BSB
-
E1 5b  
72 Auricle
-
HVS 4c 2
73 The Horn of Plenty
-
HVS 5a  
74 Ceefax
-
HVS 4c 1
75 Alligator E2 5b * 4
76 Cannibal E4 5c ** 27
77 Schittlegruber E6 6b *** 10
78 Left-hand Red Wall E3 5c ** 37
79 Ramalina
-
E6 6b ** 2
80 Howell the Trowell
-
E7 6c * 2
81 Mein Kampf
-
E5 6a ** 5
82 Heart of Gold E5 6a *** 11
83 Heart of Gold Direct
-
E6 6a *** 15
84 The Super Calabrese
-
E8 6b * 3
85 The Super Duper Calebrese E6 6b *** 2
86 The Enchanted Broccoli Garden
-
E7 6b *** 4
87 Pagan E4 5c *** 50
88 Salem
-
E5 6a * 5
89 Deygo
-
E3 5c ** 26
90 Deygo/Infidel Direct E3 5c ** 3
91 Yarding Lard
-
E6 6b ** 2
92 Come to Mother E7 6a  
93 Infidel
-
E3 5c * 13
94 Infidel Direct
-
E4 5c ** 12
95 Outside the asylum
-
E5 6a ** 8
96 Anarchy in the UK
-
E4 6a ** 2
97 Anarchist E1 5b * 131
98 Anarchist variation finish
-
E2 5c 1
99 Anarchist, The Gentlemens Finish
-
E3 6a 1
100 Care in the Community
-
E5 6a * 2
101 The Missionary
-
E4 5c ** 5
102 The Missionary-Maze link up
-
E4 5c *** 1
103 The Girdle Traverse
-
E3 5c * 1
  The Promontory
105 Puritan
-
VS 4c 1
106 Project!!! E11 7a  
107 Athiest
-
E4 6a * 1
108 Three men and a cake
-
E4 5c 1
109 Heathen
-
E1 5b 1
110 The Cruel Seam
-
E5 6b * 1
111 This is the Sea
-
E5 6a * 3
112 The Featherstone
-
E5 6b * 1
113 Smear Campaign E8 6c ** 1
114 Satan's Scream
-
E8 6c **  
115 Into the Light
-
E2 5c 1
116 Snatch in theStorm
-
E3 6a  
117 Red Warbler's
-
E4 6a 1
  Right Hand Red Wall
119 The Cree
-
E3 6a * 18
120 The Electrification of the Soviet Union
-
E4 6a * 6
121 Roger Melly
-
E4 6a 1
122 Television Route E4 5c *** 17
123 The safer Start!
-
E4 5c 5
124 Khmer Rouge
-
E5 6a ** 6
125 Blood Baarth
-
E5 6a  
126 Redshift
-
E4 5c ** 25
127 Dangerous liaison
-
E3 6a * 5
128 Bottom of the Pile
-
E2 5c 1
129 Red Wall Escape Route
-
VS 4c 13
130 Wendigo E2 5b *** 118
131 Last of the Summer Wine
-
E4 5c ** 2
132 Blue Remembered Hills E3 5c *** 27
133 Red Haze
-
E4 5c * 17
134 Rapture of the Deep
-
E4 5b ** 8
135 Red Wall E2 5b *** 161
136 Fantasia E3 5c *** 53
137 A Brown Study
-
E3 5c * 4
138 Communication Breakdown
-
E3 5c ** 5
139 Doppelgangen
-
E3 5b * 2
140 The Tiger's Den
-
E5 6a * 1
141 Fire and Grimstone
-
E5 5c * 1
142 The Maze
-
E4 5c ***  
  Castell Helen
144 Captain Nemo
-
E3 5c * 1
145 Nematoid
-
E3 5c 1
146 Black Light
-
HVS 4c * 5
147 Woodlight
-
HS 4a *  
148 Fluorescent Ridge
-
VD * 1
149 Lighthouse Arete VS 4b ** 1084
150 Lighthouse Arete Direct VS 4c ** 468
151 Lighthouse Arete Direct/Blanco HVS 5a *** 86
152 A State of Saturation
-
HVS 5a 52
153 Blanco HVS 5a ** 390
154 Poseidon
-
VS 4c * 118
155 Poseidon/Blanco HVS 5a ** 69
156 Poseidon direct finish
-
E1 5a * 4
157 Pel VS 4c ** 555
158 Freebird
-
E1 5b ** 63
159 The Flight of the Do Do
-
E4 6a 2
160 North West Passage E1 5b *** 744
161 Rap VS 5a ** 858
162 True Moments
-
E1 5b ** 65
163 Caress of Steel
-
E2 5c 1
164 Atlantis E1 5c ** 257
165 True Moments/Freebird
-
E1 5b *** 137
166 Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird E2 5b *** 245
167 limping lisa
-
E2 5b * 25
168 Sloe Passage E4 6a * 3
169 Caught 'twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea
-
E4 6b * 2
170 Atlantic Wall "1990" E3 5c * 15
171 Atlantic Wall "2000"
-
E3 6b * 2
172 Hanging Out At Glastonbury E4 5c *** 22
173 Obelisk
-
E6 6b ** 2
174 Free Stone Henge
-
E6 6b *** 6
175 Vital Statistix
-
E8 6c ** 2
176 Kalahari
-
E3 5c ** 162
177 Kalahari Highway E4 6a *** 11
178 Drunken without Trace
-
E6 6b * 2
179 Gobi
-
HVS 5a 4
180 Where Puffins Daren't
-
HVS 5a * 22
181 Castell Helen Girdle E1 5b * 24
  Yellow Walls
183 The Savage E2 5b * 162
184 Book of Ages E5 6b * 5
185 Perygl
-
E3 5c ** 56
186 You E4 6a * 6
187 The Drunk E6 6b ** 12
188 The Moon E3 5c *** 423
189 Me
-
E6 6a ** 12
190 The Owl and the Pussycat
-
E6 6b ** 2
191 The Cow E5 6a *** 60
192 Ludwig
-
E6 6b *** 15
193 Beefhoven
-
E6 6b 2
194 The Yellow Shark
-
E7 6b ** 2
195 Dogs of War
-
E4 5c ** 26
196 The Sind
-
E3 5b ** 106
197 Isis is Angry
-
E7 6c *** 4
198 Creeping Lemma E2 5c *** 138
199 The Big Softy
-
E6 6a 2
200 Paddington
-
E3 5c  
201 Pterodactyl E3 5b ** 4
202 93,000,000 Miles
-
E4 5c * 5
203 Sign of the Sun Dog
-
E5 6b * 4
204 Not Yellow Wall Escape Route HVS 4c 2
  Blacksmith's Zawn
206 Spooners Struggle E2 5b *  
207 The Compass
-
E1 5b * 6
208 The Magic Roundabout
-
E6 6b * 2
209 Ermintrude
-
E6 6a ** 2
210 Angel Dust
-
E6 6a *** 3
211 Thug
-
E7 6b *** 1
212 The Bogle Roof
-
E6 6b **  
213 Red Rocket
-
E6 6b 2
214 Seven Types Of Angularity
-
E5 6b ** 3
215 Bats In The Belfry
-
E7 6b ***  
216 Back to Black Smith E2 5b * 1
217 The Light That Didn't Shine
-
XS *** 4

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