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Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 131
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

SUPERDIRECT 2 © jethro kiernan

Crag features

One of the few crags in Britain with every grade - and something good at each of them. (Assuming Leo Houlding's E9 7a Trauma is good.. you try it.) Multi-pitch routes up to 580ft. Best include Direct Route (VS 5b), Diagonal (HVS 5a), Superdirect (E1 5b), Ten Degrees North (E2 5b), Stairway To Heaven (E3 5c).. it's a long list.

Approach notes

Park at the Cromlech boulders (get there early) and tonk up the hill. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top, as well as the middle and bottom.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Eastern Wing
2 Staircase Gully
-
M 6
3 The Toad
-
E3 6a * 5
4 MPP
-
HVS 5a * 13
5 The Mole HVS 5a ** 91
6 Tales from the Riverbank
-
E3 6a *  
7 The Molehill
-
E3 6a * 4
8 Gollum HVS 5b ** 111
9 A New Austerlitz
-
E3 5c ** 26
10 Gandalf
-
E1 5a * 18
11 Beorn
-
E1 5c * 20
12 Mordor
-
E3 6a  
13 Eastern Gully D 37
  The Nose
15 You're not in Poland Now
-
E1 5a * 3
16 God Help the Sailors.....
-
E1 5b  
17 Sombrero Fallout
-
E2 6a 2
18 Truncheon Meat
-
E6 6c * 1
19 Dagrau'r Graig E1 5b 2
20 Teyrnon E2 5c  
21 The Cracks HS 4c *** 1713
22 GBH E2 5c * 48
23 Lorraine VS 4c ** 586
24 Lorraine Variation HVS 5a ** 254
25 Trauma
-
E9 7a * 2
26 Direct Route VS 5b *** 1301
27 Orogenous Zones E3 5c  
28 Famine
-
HVS 5a * 14
29 Super Direct E1 5b *** 981
30 Horizontal E1 5b * 3
31 Zeta E3 6a ** 72
32 Diagonal HVS 5a *** 1125
33 Crosstie HVS 5a * 65
34 Stairway to Heaven E3 5c ** 60
35 Stairway Direct E4 5c * 7
36 The Laughing Buddah
-
E4 6a *  
37 The Link/The Chain E1 5b ** 289
38 West Rib HVS 5a ** 613
39 Blink! - Don't E1 5b 4
40 Western Slabs VS 4c ** 1110
41 Speeding Fine
-
E2 5b 18
42 Spaghetti Western
-
HVS 5a 3
43 The Girdle of the Nose
-
VS 4c 5
44 Western Gully M 69
45 North Ridge of Crib Goch
-
D 91
  The Western Wing
47 Slow Ledge Climb VS 4b ** 203
Climb name Grade
48 Black Shadow
-
E3 5c * 33
49 Black and White
-
E3 5c 2
50 Black Spring HVS 5a ** 122
51 Coon's Yard
-
E2 5b * 18
52 Black Foot
-
E2 5b ** 3
53 Dolerite Dump VD 7
54 Cold Fusion E4 6a *** 11
55 Tremolite
-
E1 5b * 14
56 Bluebell Cracks
-
S 3c 12
57 Sych
-
E2 5c 6
58 Dole-ite Variation
-
E1 5b 4
59 Sidewinder
-
E2 5b * 4
60 Hiawatha
-
HVS 5b * 13
61 Intruder
-
HVS 5a 3
62 Pokeyhuntas
-
E3 5c  
63 Ghost Dance
-
E3 5c  
64 Jubilee Climb HVS 5b ** 92
65 War Drum
-
HVS 5a * 9
66 Tyndrum E1 5b 1
67 One Inch Punch E7 6c * 1
68 Jammed Boulder Gully
-
3 ** 80
69 Jammed Boulder Gully(Winter) III ** 11
70 Jammed Boulder Gully Buttress IV 4 * 3
71 Jammed Boulder Buttress
-
III * 2
  Groper Buttress
73 The Lymph
-
E2 5c 3
74 Groper
-
E3 6a * 6
75 Zyklon 'B'
-
E4 6a  
76 Runnymead
-
E2 5b 2
77 Black Cleft
-
S 3a 5
78 Black Cleft (Winter)
-
IV 5 ** 3
79 Western Wing Girdle
-
M 1
  Plexus
81 Sexus
-
E4 6b * 6
82 The Red Ring
-
E5 6b **  
83 Perplexus
-
E5 6b ** 6
84 Plexus E1 5b *** 412
85 Ten Degrees North E2 5c *** 244
86 Dinas in the Dog
-
E3 6a * 2
87 Nexus E1 5b *** 393
88 Nexus Direct E5 6b * 8
89 The Windmill E3 5c ** 28
90 The Smodge
-
E4 6a 5
91 The Plexus Girdle
-
E3 5b ** 7
92 Gardd HVS 5a * 71
93 Hornets Attack Victor Mature
-
E2 5c * 31
94 Twin Groove
-
D * 1
Climb name Grade
95 Do Or Dai E7 6b **  
96 Ayacucho Crack E1 5b  
97 The Shining Path E5 6b, 6a ** 4
98 Garden Groove
-
D 1
  Beginners Mind Crag
100 Beginner's Mind
-
E7 6c * 2
101 Grin's Twins
-
E6 6b  
102 My Favourite Route....
-
E7 6c  
  Summer Teeth Boulder
104 Summit o' Nothing
-
f6C+ ** 11
105 Summer Telse
-
f7A ** 10
106 Two slugs V7 * 2
107 Bag of Sticks
-
f7B 2
108 Summer Teeth
-
f6C ** 9
  The Barrel
110 Barrel Groove
-
V8+ ** 23
111 Barrel Traverse V9 6c ** 31
112 Barrel Traverse into the Minimum
-
V8 ** 5
113 The Minimum
-
V7 ** 160
114 Barrel Traverse into Bulling 747
-
V8 ** 3
115 Problem 5 V3 ** 72
116 Problem 6 V4 ** 49
117 Bulling 747
-
V6 ** 77
118 Got me over...
-
V6 * 5
119 Looking down...
-
V5 * 1
120 Barrel Rider f7A+ 1
  The Barrel Cave
122 The Tracks
-
f8A+ * 10
123 Dead and Bloated f8B ** 2
124 Stoned Temple Pilots f8A ** 19
125 Stoned temple Pilots stand f7B ** 9
126 Ropes of Maui
-
f8B * 8
127 Original Problem
-
f7A 2
128 Baby Barrel f6A * 5
129 Baby roof f6A * 5
130 OLD baby roof f6C * 2
  Other Boulders
132 Gav's Big Problem V7 ** 1
133 Gavs Variation f7A 2
134 Slimfast f7A ** 3
135 Lieutenant Dan V4 6a/b * 1
136 Forrest Gump V4 6a ** 1
137 Thumbs Up V3  
138 The Bogey V5 ** 9
139 Thumbs down V1  
140 Fore Armed Is For Warned V3 *  
141 The Old Finish
-
f6A+ * 1

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