Climbs 123
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

SUPERDIRECT 2 © jethro kiernan

Crag features

One of the few crags in Britain with every grade - and something good at each of them. (Assuming Leo Houlding's E9 7a Trauma is good.. you try it.) Multi-pitch routes up to 580ft. Best include Direct Route (VS 5b), Diagonal (HVS 5a), Superdirect (E1 5b), Ten Degrees North (E2 5b), Stairway To Heaven (E3 5c).. it's a long list.

Approach notes

Park at the Cromlech boulders (get there early) and tonk up the hill. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top, as well as the middle and bottom.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Eastern Wing
2 Staircase Gully
-
M 6
3 The Toad
-
E3 6a * 4
4 MPP
-
HVS 5a * 14
5 The Mole
-
HVS 5a ** 88
6 Tales from the Riverbank
-
E3 6a *  
7 The Molehill
-
E3 6a * 4
8 Gollum
-
HVS 5b ** 117
9 A New Austerlitz
-
E3 5c ** 18
10 Gandalf
-
E1 5a * 14
11 Beorn
-
E1 5c * 20
12 Mordor
-
E3 6a  
13 Eastern Gully
-
D 32
  The Nose
15 You're not in Poland Now
-
E1 5a * 3
16 God Help the Sailors.....
-
E1 5b  
17 Sombrero Fallout
-
E2 6a 2
18 Truncheon Meat
-
E6 6c * 1
19 Dagrau'r Graig E1 5b 2
20 Teyrnon E2 5c  
21 The Cracks HS 4c *** 1534
22 GBH E2 5c * 40
23 Lorraine VS 4c ** 521
24 Lorraine Variation HVS 5a ** 214
25 Trauma
-
E9 7a * 1
26 Direct Route VS 5b *** 1145
27 Orogenous Zones E3 5c  
28 Famine
-
HVS 5a * 14
29 Super Direct E1 5b *** 986
30 Zeta E3 6a ** 68
31 Diagonal HVS 5a *** 1072
32 Crosstie
-
HVS 5a * 54
33 Stairway to Heaven E3 5c ** 49
34 Stairway Direct
-
E4 5c * 3
35 The Laughing Buddah
-
E4 6a *  
36 The Link/The Chain E1 5b ** 215
37 West Rib HVS 5a ** 505
38 Blink! - Don't E1 5b 4
39 Western Slabs VS 4c ** 958
40 Speeding Fine
-
E2 5b 15
41 Spaghetti Western
-
HVS 5a 3
42 The Girdle of the Nose
-
VS 4c 5
43 Western Gully
-
M 63
44 North Ridge of Crib Goch
-
D 88
  The Western Wing
46 Slow Ledge Climb VS 4b ** 188
47 Black Shadow
-
E3 5c * 30
48 Black and White
-
E3 5c 2
49 Black Spring HVS 5a ** 119
50 Coon's Yard
-
E2 5b * 12
51 Black Foot
-
E2 5b ** 2
52 Dolerite Dump VD 4
53 Cold Fusion E4 6a *** 9
54 Tremolite
-
E1 5b * 11
55 Bluebell Cracks
-
S 3c 10
56 Sych
-
E2 5c 3
57 Dole-ite Variation
-
E1 5b 2
58 Sidewinder
-
E2 5b *  
59 Hiawatha
-
HVS 5b * 12
60 Intruder
-
HVS 5a 2
61 Pokeyhuntas
-
E3 5c  
62 Ghost Dance
-
E3 5c  
63 Jubilee Climb
-
HVS 5b ** 84
64 War Drum
-
HVS 5a * 5
65 Tyndrum E1 5b 1
66 One Inch Punch E7 6c * 1
67 Jammed Boulder Gully
-
3 ** 61
68 Jammed Boulder Gully(Winter) III ** 10
69 Jammed Boulder Gully Buttress IV 4 * 3
70 Jammed Boulder Buttress
-
III * 2
  Groper Buttress
72 The Lymph
-
E2 5c 2
73 Groper
-
E3 6a * 4
74 Zyklon 'B'
-
E4 6a  
75 Runnymead
-
E2 5b 2
76 Black Cleft
-
S 3a 6
77 Black Cleft (Winter)
-
IV 5 ** 2
78 Western Wing Girdle
-
M 1
  Plexus
80 Barrel Traverse into the Minimum
-
V8 ** 3
81 Sexus
-
E4 6b * 5
82 The Red Ring
-
E5 6b **  
83 Perplexus
-
E5 6b ** 3
84 Plexus E1 5b *** 416
85 Ten Degrees North E2 5c *** 226
86 Dinas in the Dog
-
E3 6a *  
87 Nexus E1 5b *** 397
88 Nexus Direct E5 6b * 8
89 The Windmill E3 5c ** 20
90 The Smodge
-
E4 6a 4
91 The Plexus Girdle
-
E3 5b ** 6
92 Gardd
-
HVS 5a * 48
93 Hornets Attack Victor Mature
-
E2 5c * 24
94 Twin Groove
-
D * 1
95 Do Or Dai E7 6b **  
96 Ayacucho Crack E1 5b  
97 The Shining Path E5 6b, 6a ** 3
98 Garden Groove
-
D 1
  Beginners Mind Crag
100 Beginner's Mind
-
E7 6c * 1
101 Grin's Twins
-
E6 6b  
102 My Favourite Route....
-
E7 6c  
  Summer Teeth Boulder
104 Summit o' Nothing
-
f6C+ ** 6
105 Summer Telse
-
f7A ** 4
106 Bag of Sticks
-
f7B 1
107 Summer Teeth
-
f6C ** 4
  The Barrel
109 Barrel Groove
-
V8+ ** 18
110 Barrel Traverse V9 6c ** 26
111 The Minimum
-
V7 ** 124
112 Barrel Traverse into Bulling 747
-
V8 ** 1
113 Problem 5 V3 ** 58
114 Problem 6 V4 ** 28
115 Bulling 747
-
V6 ** 52
116 Got me over...
-
V6 * 4
117 Looking down...
-
V5 * 1
  The Barrel Cave
119 The Tracks
-
f8A+ * 7
120 Dead and Bloated f8B ** 1
121 Stoned Temple Pilots f8A ** 14
122 Stoned temple Pilots stand f7B ** 4
123 Ropes of Maui
-
f8B * 4
124 Original Problem
-
f7A 1
  Other Boulders
126 Gav's Big Problem V7 ** 1
127 Gavs Variation f7A 1
128 Lieutenant Dan V4 6a/b * 1
129 Forrest Gump V4 6a ** 1
130 Thumbs Up V3  
131 The Bogey V5 ** 5
132 Thumbs down V1  
133 Fore Armed Is For Warned V3 *  

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