Climbs 122
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

SUPERDIRECT 2 © jethro kiernan

Crag features

One of the few crags in Britain with every grade - and something good at each of them. (Assuming Leo Houlding's E9 7a Trauma is good.. you try it.) Multi-pitch routes up to 580ft. Best include Direct Route (VS 5b), Diagonal (HVS 5a), Superdirect (E1 5b), Ten Degrees North (E2 5b), Stairway To Heaven (E3 5c).. it's a long list.

Approach notes

Park at the Cromlech boulders (get there early) and tonk up the hill. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top, as well as the middle and bottom.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Eastern Wing 
2Staircase Gully
M 6
3The Toad
E3 6a *3
HVS 5a *11
5The Mole
HVS 5a **84
6Tales from the Riverbank
E3 6a * 
7The Molehill
E3 6a *2
HVS 5b **111
9A New Austerlitz
E3 5c **18
E1 5a *17
E1 5c *17
E3 6a  
13Eastern Gully
D 32
 The Nose 
15You're not in Poland Now
E1 5a *3
16God Help the Sailors.....
E1 5b  
17Sombrero Fallout
E2 6a 2
18Truncheon Meat
E6 6c *1
19Dagrau'r GraigE1 5b 2
20TeyrnonE2 5c  
21The CracksHS 4c ***1450
22GBHE2 5c *31
23LorraineVS 4c **490
24Lorraine VariationHVS 5a **193
E9 7a *1
26Direct RouteVS 5b ***1095
27Orogenous ZonesE3 5c  
HVS 5a *14
29Super DirectE1 5b ***938
30ZetaE3 6a **61
31DiagonalHVS 5a ***1032
HVS 5a *52
33Stairway to HeavenE3 5c **46
34Stairway Direct
E4 5c *3
35The Laughing Buddah
E4 6a * 
36The Link/The ChainE1 5b **198
37West RibHVS 5a **482
38Blink! - Don'tE1 5b 3
39Western SlabsVS 4c **911
40Speeding Fine
E2 5b 15
41Spaghetti Western
HVS 5a 3
42The Girdle of the Nose
VS 4c 5
43Western Gully
M 63
44North Ridge of Crib Goch
D 86
 The Western Wing 
46Slow Ledge ClimbVS 4b **178
47Black Shadow
E3 5c *27
48Black and White
E3 5c 1
49Black SpringHVS 5a **96
50Coon's Yard
E2 5b *11
51Black Foot
E2 5b **1
52Dolerite DumpVD 4
53Cold FusionE4 6a ***9
E1 5b *10
55Bluebell Cracks
S 3c 10
E2 5c 2
57Dole-ite Variation
E1 5b 2
E2 5b * 
HVS 5b *11
HVS 5a 2
E3 5c  
62Ghost Dance
E3 5c  
63Jubilee Climb
HVS 5b **81
64War Drum
HVS 5a *4
65TyndrumE1 5b 1
66One Inch PunchE7 6c *1
67Jammed Boulder Gully
3 **57
68Jammed Boulder Gully(Winter)III **10
69Jammed Boulder Gully ButtressIV 4 *3
70Jammed Boulder Buttress
III *2
 Groper Buttress 
72The Lymph
E2 5c 1
E3 6a *4
74Zyklon 'B'
E4 6a  
E2 5b 1
76Black Cleft
S 3a 3
77Black Cleft (Winter)
IV 5 **2
78Western Wing Girdle
M 1
80Barrel Traverse into the Minimum
V8 **3
E4 6b *4
82The Red Ring
E5 6b ** 
E5 6b **3
84PlexusE1 5b ***389
85Ten Degrees NorthE2 5c ***210
86Dinas in the Dog
E3 6a * 
87NexusE1 5b ***374
88Nexus DirectE5 6b *7
89The WindmillE3 5c **19
90The Smodge
E4 6a 3
91The Plexus Girdle
E3 5b **5
HVS 5a *46
93Hornets Attack Victor Mature
E2 5c *24
94Twin Groove
D *1
95Do Or DaiE7 6b ** 
96Ayacucho CrackE1 5b  
97The Shining PathE5 6b, 6a **3
98Garden Groove
D 1
 Beginners Mind Crag 
100Beginner's Mind
E7 6c *1
101Grin's Twins
E6 6b  
102My Favourite Route....
E7 6c  
 Summer Teeth Boulder 
104Summit o' Nothing
f6C+ **6
105Summer Telse
f7A **4
106Bag of Sticks
f7B 1
107Summer Teeth
f6C **4
 The Barrel 
109Barrel Groove
V8+ **25
110Barrel TraverseV9 **32
111The Minimum
V7 **118
112Barrel Traverse into Bulling 747
V8 **1
113Problem 5V3 **54
114Problem 6V4 **27
115Bulling 747
V6 **49
116Got me over...
V6 *4
117Looking down...
V5 *1
 The Barrel Cave 
119The Tracks
f8A+ *10
120Dead and Bloatedf8B **1
121Stoned Temple Pilotsf8A **18
122Stoned temple Pilots standf7B **4
123Ropes of Maui
f8B *7
124Original Problem
f7A 1
 Other Boulders 
126Gav's Big ProblemV7 **1
127Lieutenant DanV4 *1
128Forrest GumpV4 **1
129Thumbs UpV3  
130The BogeyV5 **5
131Thumbs downV1  
132Fore Armed Is For WarnedV3 * 

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