Climbs 200
Rocktype Diorites
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces W

Glen Clova Robin with Takoon axes © TonyB

Crag features

See also entries on :

Corrie Fee and Winter Corrie for winter climbing in Glen Clova.



Summer climbing in Glen Clova is restricted to the lower crags along the valley. Some excellent short (< 50 m) hard climbs are to be found on a variety of crags, such as Red Crag.

Must do's - Proud Corner (VS) & Red Wall (E1).

Has the advantage of being closet climbing to Dundee (!)

Approach notes

April 2017 - Dead stag in south east crag decent gully.


 

Access Advice

Possible restrictions during Stalking season.

(Sept - Jan) [disputed.]

As of 11 Apr 2011 there is an owl nesting on Beanstalk. It might be wise to stay off routes between Wander and Proud Corner for now.

There is an owl nesting on Monster Crack (Apr 14). Best to leave this route alone for now.
jamie84 - 13/Apr/14
worth noting I ripped off main [rather large flake] in middle of crux section of vanishing Breed 2 seasons ago. Would be considerably harder now.
mgeek - 17/Jun/13
Word on the street is that the good flake on Cinderella that is used to place the vital protection (pre crux) has now fallen off! Care must now be taken when going for this route as it has just got a lot more serious.
Greg Boswell - 17/May/12
Does your comment about 'closet climbing to Dundee' refer to gay Dundonians? IJ
Ian Jones - 06/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  SOLAR WIND CRAG
2 The Cosmic Pump
-
E3 6a  
3 Solar Wind
-
E3 6b *  
4 Ion Drive
-
E3 6a  
5 Sidestep
-
E1 5b  
  LOWER DOONIE
7 Jake's Jungle Route XS 4a 6
8 Jug Wall
-
E1 5c 2
9 The Thin Wall VS 4c 5
10 Mandy E2 5c ** 8
11 Lichen Groove VS 4c 1
12 Ally's Crack
-
HVS 5a  
13 Four Corners Route
-
HVS 5a 10
14 Alcopops
-
E1 5b * 5
15 Summer's Over
-
E2 5c  
16 Guinness
-
E1 5b ** 108
17 Guinless E4 5c ** 6
18 Special Brew HVS 5a ** 83
19 The Furstenburg Finish HVS 5a ** 3
20 Special Brew Direct E3 5c ** 15
21 Belhaven
-
E3 5c * 5
22 Belhaven (Stella variation)
-
E4 5c 5
23 Heinekin
-
E1 5b 5
24 Export
-
HVS 5b 1
25 The Pub Crawl
-
E1 5b  
26 Ant Slab
-
M 54
27 Koflach Corner HS 7
28 Witches Mate
-
VS 4c 23
29 Ent Moot
-
HS  
  UPPER DOONIE
31 Shadow on the Wall
-
E1 5c 2
32 Larch Tree Wall VD 26
33 Elliptical Dreams
-
E2 5c  
34 Headspread
-
E4 6a  
35 The Catwalk
-
E1 5a  
36 Catbird
-
HVS 5b  
37 Henry's Cat
-
E1 5b  
38 The Slicer
-
HVS 4c * 4
39 The Grater
-
E2 5c 1
40 Fastbreeder E4 5c ** 3
41 The Making of Bunny
-
E1 5b  
42 Green Bunny
-
VS 5a  
43 Green Shield
-
VS 4c 1
44 Vindaloo
-
E1 5b *** 71
45 Scoopy Dubh
-
E4 6b  
46 Chitteroo
-
E4 6a * 2
47 D.R.I.
-
E6 6a 5
48 Overhanging Coroner
-
E4 6a * 2
49 The Whoremistress
-
E4 6a *** 25
50 Dancin' in the Ruins
-
E3 5c * 19
51 Cream Cracker
-
E2 5c 1
52 Jungle Warfare
-
HVS 5a 1
53 Faulty Towers
-
E2 5c *  
  HIGH CRAG
55 Wee Slab D 3
56 Pocketeer
-
HVS 5a 2
57 Pickpocket
-
E1 5b  
58 Centipod
-
HVS 5a 10
59 Arachnid HVS 5b 3
60 Grunt
-
VS 5a 1
61 Geotechnician HVS 5a 2
62 Bon Anniversaire
-
HVS 5a  
  UPPER NORTHWEST CRAG
64 Incarceration
-
E2 5c  
65 Sun Goes Down E1 5b * 4
66 Jailbreak
-
E3 5c  
67 Just Another Sparkler E3 5c ** 41
68 Roman Candle
-
E4 6a *** 35
69 ZigZag Direct HVS 5b ** 62
70 ZigZag Double Direct
-
E2 5c *** 74
71 999
-
E2 5c 2
72 The Return of the Living Dead
-
E2 5b 4
73 Zig Zag
-
VS 4c * 15
74 High Level Traverse and Direct Finish HS ** 43
75 A Vanishing Breed
-
E6 6b **  
76 The Sorcerer
-
E4 6a * 10
77 The Supernatural Anaesthetist
-
E4 6a * 4
78 Sorcerer's Apprentice E2 5c * 10
79 Pudding Fingers
-
E2 5b 12
80 Alder
-
VS 4c *** 161
81 Hanging Chimney
-
S 12
82 Kremlin Control
-
E2 5c * 30
83 Red Wall
-
E1 5b *** 202
84 The Cold War
-
E2 5c  
85 Taste Me!
-
E4 6a  
86 Carn Dearg Corner
-
E2 5c 3
87 W+S Chimney
-
S 1
88 Fool's Edge
-
HVS 5a  
89 The Magical Mystery Tour
-
E3 5c *  
  LOWER NORTHWEST CRAG
91 Twenty Minute Route
-
M 80
92 Step-Ladder Arete VD 4b * 1
93 Gander VS 4c 3
94 Wander
-
HVS 5a ** 123
95 Wandered
-
HVS 5a *** 247
96 The Beanstalk
-
VS 4b * 117
97 The Beanstalk - Direct Finish HVS 5a 28
98 The Beanstalk - Dander Finish VS 4c * 12
99 Proud Corner
-
VS 4c *** 444
100 Cinderella E6 6a *** 13
101 Rocketman
-
E3 5b * 7
102 Taken By Force
-
E2 5c * 32
103 Monster's Crack HS 177
104 Monster Munch
-
E2 6a  
105 Taken With Ease
-
HVS 5a 5
106 Witch's Tooth E1 5b ** 131
107 Witch's Tooth Direct E4 6a 4
108 Cauldron Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 178
109 Halloween
-
E2 6a 1
110 Rander
-
E1 5b  
111 Wizard's Wall
-
HS 1
112 Plonker's Passage
-
HVS 5a  
  CENTRAL CRAG
114 Ride My Face to Chicago
-
E2 5b  
115 West Side Story E2 5b * 3
116 Bark at the Moon E8 6c *** 2
117 Mearns Wall
-
E5 6a  
118 Black Adder E4 6a  
119 Empire of the Sun
-
E4 6a *** 28
120 The Burning World E6 6b ** 1
121 Burning Bright E6 6b  
122 Sunset Song Indirect E5 6b * 2
123 Sunset Song E5 6b 3
124 Sunset Song Direct
-
E6 6b 1
125 Gotae Grooves
-
HVS 5a  
126 Upper Parapet
-
VD  
  SOUTHEAST CRAG
128 Power To Burn VS 4c * 3
129 Three J's Chimney
-
VD * 125
130 Chimney Crack HVS 5b 2
131 Clairvoyant Reality E3 6a ** 1
132 The Spider E3 5b 5
133 The Wildebeast E4 6a ** 11
134 Parapet Route Direct Start HS 119
135 Darkness E1 5b 2
136 Flake Route S ** 239
137 Central Crack HS *** 368
138 Lemmings E3 5c * 1
139 Parapet Route S * 92
140 Parapet Route Variation VS 4b * 69
141 Parapet Route Direct MVS 4b ** 46
142 Pilgrims HVS 5b ** 3
143 The Girdle HS 2
144 Comes the Squirmish HVS 5b 1
  BOULDERING
  Sheep Pen / Parallel Lines / Unclimbed Wall
147 Le Toit du Cul de Mouton
-
f7A ** 9
148 Sheep Pen Groove
-
f6B+ ** 4
149 High Slab
-
V1 5a 1
150 Lady Sam f7A+ *** 1
  The Sentinel
152 The Groove f5 5a 3
153 Look South V1 2
154 Skin Dog V2 5c 2
155 Sentinel Arete V4 6b 1
156 North Wall Groovin' V3 6a 1
157 East Arete VB 4b 2
158 Fore V1 5a 2
159 Look South Eliminate V2 5c 1
160 Here's Jonny! f7A+ 7
  Peel Boulder
162 Groove Traverse f6A 12
163 Left Arete f6A * 6
164 Peel Session f6B 6b *** 29
165 Peel Session Sit Start f6C 6b *** 42
166 Peel Session Left Hand SS f6B 6b ** 1
167 The Peel Traverse f7A * 4
168 Peel girdle f7B 6b 1
169 Peeler girdle f7A+ 4
170 Peeler Crab f7A 6b 1
171 Keeping It Peel f6C 6b 1
172 Left Crack f6A+ 7
173 Botty No Slotty f5 5b 8
174 Botty to Slotty f6C 4
175 Peeling Right f5 5b * 7
176 Peel Slab f4+ 5a 8
177 Fatty McGinty f5 5b 10
178 Flat Face f5 5b 12
179 Flat Face Sit Start f5+ 5c ** 9
180 Fatty to Flatty f5+ 5c 4
181 Groover f5+ 5c * 13
182 Groovier Baby f6A+ * 8
183 Groovie Pop f6A * 6
184 The Archers f6A * 4
185 The Friday Rock Show f6A * 5
  Hidden Rich's Wall
187 Feckless Wonder f4 3
188 The Razor Blade f5 6
189 Poke in the Eye f5+ 5
190 One in the Ear f5 5
191 Crabby Man f5 3
  Red Roof
193 The Ramp
-
f6C ** 5
194 Rudolph
-
f6C *** 8
195 Feet For Hands f7A ** 3
  Hole of Weems
197 Weems Arete f6A+ * 7
198 Hole of Weems f7A * 3
  Far Left
200 Short Roof f6A+ 7
201 Pit Boy f7A+ *** 1
202 Two Big Jugs f6A+ * 2
203 Shredded Beefcake f6B ** 2
204 West Wall f6C 5
205 Fun Slab
-
f4 * 3
206 Fun Arete
-
f4 * 3
  Far Right
208 Red Devils
-
f4+ * 2
209 Blue Angels f6A 1
210 Carribean Airways f5 * 1
211 Reach For The Sky
-
f6A **  
  Hidden Gem
213 The Nose f6A 5

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