Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 130m a.s.l
Food for Parasites F7a+ © Reynish
One of the three-star sandstone inland crags with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 55m.
Access is much improved since the 2008 BMC/SWAG crag clean-up.
Many routes have been rebolted from 2007 onwards, but be wary of older, corroded bolts. Use your judgement.
Most of the crag gets the sun early in the day, with the Luxury Walls in the sun from early afternoon to early evening.
May 2010: The crag is mostly dry, and is in very good condition.
Many routes on the Upper Tier have been rebolted, and worth a visit.
Although seepage can be a problem, some routes stay dry even in the rain.
Please contact the crag moderator if you have any concerns about bolts or other fixed protection.
Follow the A469 N from Caerphilly, taking the first exit off the roundabout signposted for Llanbradach. Park on right after traffic calming chicane.
Walk back along road and follow path up under the railway line. Turn L along a track.
Access to the lower tier is on the R, following a good path along the edge of the pool to reach the Luxury Walls.
To access the upper tier, climb over a metal gate at the end of the track. Continue on for around 100m, until you reach a gently inclined path on the R. Follow this path until it levels out and wander to the left until you reach the first routes of the upper tier.
Usual precautions re. cars: don't leave valuables visible.
|As of 17th May 2015, routes between "Sadness" and "Internal Reflection" on Pool Wall cleared of brambles and cleaned. Also cleared foliage and brambles on the Upper Tier between "Aptitude Test" and "Incidentally". "You Are What You Is" cleaned and brushed so get on it before the jungle returns. "Aptitude Test" and "Merthyr Infill" currently do not have a safe anchor - traverse awkwardly to the anchor of "My Blue Bell".|
nikgoile - 19/May/15
|The upper tier is currently heavily overgrown with ferns and midges everywhere! I plan to go cut them all down as it isnt very enjoyable to be up there. From my experience this summer you need quite a long period of dry weather before routes are dry enough|
rhys mence - 04/Sep/12
|Not impressed. Crumbly rock and lots of biting midges.|
Tomar - 03/May/11
|Was there last night, Be aware of a Wasp nest at the base of the decent from the upper tier on the left its in amongst the old trees that have fallen down. They were less than best pleased when one of our party crossed over them!!!|
Mark Batey - 16/Jul/09
|no way I'm actually unlucky enough to be from Llanbradach
cant believe that i lived there for 20 yrs and never ever found this gem, Dont Leave Anything in Your Car!|
uriel - 06/Aug/04
|2||Horns A Plenty||6a+||7|
|6||Moutton Dagger||6c *||3|
|7||Peel Back the Flaps||6b+ *||2|
|8||Jamb One In||E1 5b *||1|
|11||Boston Strangler||7b *||1|
|14||Wert's Famous Taxi Ride||6b||2|
|16||Hedge Of Thyme||S||4|
|20||Three Men In A Goat||6c *||5|
|21||Once Bitten||6b *||15|
|22||Twice Shy||6a *||27|
|23||Hollow Feeling||6b *||7|
|24||Practice What You Preach||E3|
|26||You Change Me||6c+ *||6|
|27||Nappy Rush||6b *||31|
|28||Torch The Earth||7b+ *||1|
|29||Dirty As A Dog||6b *||24|
|30||Dirty As A Dog Direct||
|31||Desert Storm||7a+ **||9|
|32||Twenty Second Chance||7a+ *||1|
|33||Sixty Second Go See||7a *||2|
|34||Roaring Forties||6b+ *||13|
|35||Between The Lines||6b+ *||9|
|36||The Missing Quarter||6b+||1|
|40||Blinded by Love||6b+ **||9|
|41||The Laughing Policeman||6b+||3|
|42||Fair Cop||6b+ *||3|
|43||Aptitude Test||7a **||5|
|44||The Merthyr Infill||6c *||8|
|45||My Blue Bell||6a+||23|
|46||All Sand Together||6c+ *||3|
|48||Plaque Attack||6b+ *||15|
|50||Cop The Lot||7a||2|
|51||The Caerphilly Cop Out||6c+||2|
|52||I Am What I Am||6b *||28|
|53||You Are What You Is||6b+ **||24|
|54||Is it What You are That is?||6c *||5|
|55||The Brush Down||7a||1|
|56||The Brush Up||7a||1|
|57||My Little Routey Wooty||6a+||4|
|Upper Tier Right|
|59||Harrowed Harovians||6b+ *||8|
|Loss Leader Area|
|66||The Link Pitch (Left)||5a||4|
|67||The Caerphilly Contract||7b+ **||5|
|68||Little White Lies||6c+ **||5|
|69||The Link Pitch (Right)||
|70||The Expansionist||E3 **||7|
|71||Grit Box||7a+ ***||2|
|72||Giant Sand||7a **||2|
|75||Simple Addition||6c *||16|
|76||Post Expressionist||6b *||47|
|77||Too Keynes by Half||6c *||34|
|81||Total Recoil||6b+ *||5|
|84||Right Of Spring||
|85||Splash It On All Over||
|88||Bringeth yon Leach||7a+ *||2|
|89||Food For Parasites||7a+ **||17|
|90||The Host||6c *||5|
|91||Giving It All Up||7a *||3|
|92||Letters Of Life||6c *||9|
|94||Dreaming in Colour||7a **||3|
|95||The Evil Eye||7a||1|
|96||In Blood, Of Life, Of Sin?||7a+ *||2|
|97||Abbatoir And Costello||7b+ **||2|
|101||Shadow Of The Sun||7a **||11|
|102||Slip Into Something Sexy||7a+ ***||23|
|104||Slipping into Luxury||6b+ **||65|
|105||The Slap of Luxury||7a *||8|
|106||The Luxury Gap||7a||11|
|115||The Gathering Gloom||III||1|
|116||Per Ardva Ad Astra||III *||2|
|119||THE BIG FREEZE||
|Routes Added from Rockfax Book|
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