Climbs 109
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 130m a.s.l
Faces E

Food for Parasites F7a+ © Reynish

Crag features

One of the three-star sandstone inland crags with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 55m.

Access is much improved since the 2008 BMC/SWAG crag clean-up.

Many routes have been rebolted from 2007 onwards, but be wary of older, corroded bolts. Use your judgement.

Most of the crag gets the sun early in the day, with the Luxury Walls in the sun from early afternoon to early evening.

May 2010: The crag is mostly dry, and is in very good condition.

Many routes on the Upper Tier have been rebolted, and worth a visit.

Although seepage can be a problem, some routes stay dry even in the rain.

Please contact the crag moderator if you have any concerns about bolts or other fixed protection.

Approach notes

Follow the A469 N from Caerphilly, taking the first exit off the roundabout signposted for Llanbradach. Park on right after traffic calming chicane.

Walk back along road and follow path up under the railway line. Turn L along a track.

Access to the lower tier is on the R, following a good path along the edge of the pool to reach the Luxury Walls.

To access the upper tier, climb over a metal gate at the end of the track. Continue on for around 100m, until you reach a gently inclined path on the R. Follow this path until it levels out and wander to the left until you reach the first routes of the upper tier.

Usual precautions re. cars: don't leave valuables visible.

Access Advice

No issues reported.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
As of 17th May 2015, routes between "Sadness" and "Internal Reflection" on Pool Wall cleared of brambles and cleaned. Also cleared foliage and brambles on the Upper Tier between "Aptitude Test" and "Incidentally". "You Are What You Is" cleaned and brushed so get on it before the jungle returns. "Aptitude Test" and "Merthyr Infill" currently do not have a safe anchor - traverse awkwardly to the anchor of "My Blue Bell".
nikgoile - 19/May/15
The upper tier is currently heavily overgrown with ferns and midges everywhere! I plan to go cut them all down as it isnt very enjoyable to be up there. From my experience this summer you need quite a long period of dry weather before routes are dry enough
rhys mence - 04/Sep/12
Not impressed. Crumbly rock and lots of biting midges.
Tomar - 03/May/11
Was there last night, Be aware of a Wasp nest at the base of the decent from the upper tier on the left its in amongst the old trees that have fallen down. They were less than best pleased when one of our party crossed over them!!!
Mark Batey - 16/Jul/09
no way I'm actually unlucky enough to be from Llanbradach cant believe that i lived there for 20 yrs and never ever found this gem, Dont Leave Anything in Your Car!
uriel - 06/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

41The Laughing Policeman6b+ 3
42Fair Cop6b+ *3
43Aptitude Test7a **5
44The Merthyr Infill6c *8
45My Blue Bell6a+ 24
46All Sand Together6c+ *3
47Red 'Erring6b+ 6
48Plaque Attack6b+ *15
49Incidentally6b+ 9
50Cop The Lot7a 2
51The Caerphilly Cop Out6c+ 2
52I Am What I Am6b *28
53You Are What You Is6b+ **23
54Is it What You are That is?6c *5
55The Brush Down7a 1
56The Brush Up7a 1
57My Little Routey Wooty6a+ 4
 Upper Tier Right 
59Harrowed Harovians6b+ *8
60Saboo6c 1
 Loss Leader Area 
62Amnesia7a 1
63Insomnia6c 2
64Acatalepsia6a+ 6
 Expansionist Wall 
66The Link Pitch (Left)5a 4
67The Caerphilly Contract7b+ **13
68Little White Lies6c+ **5
69The Link Pitch (Right)
4c 6
70The ExpansionistE3 **10
71Grit Box7a+ ***8
72Giant Sand7a **2
 Sub-Contractor's Wall 
74Sub-Contraction7a 2
75Simple Addition6c *16
76Post Expressionist6b *47
77Too Keynes by Half6c *34
 Cascade Walls 
79Falling Freely7a+ 1
80Splashdown6c+ 2
81Total Recoil6b+ *5
82Cascade6c+ *3
83Sphagnum 456b 5
84Right Of Spring
6b 2
85Splash It On All Over
6c 1
86Bathtime6a+ 2
 Sinister Walls 
88Bringeth yon Leach7a+ *2
89Food For Parasites7a+ **17
90The Host6c *5
91Giving It All Up7a *3
92Letters Of Life6c *9
93Overleaf6b *2
94Dreaming in Colour7a **2
95The Evil Eye7a 1
96In Blood, Of Life, Of Sin?7a+ *2
97Abbatoir And Costello7b+ **2
98Sinister7b **8
99Snapper6c *2
 Luxury Wall 
101Shadow Of The Sun7a **11
102Slip Into Something Sexy7a+ ***27
103Slipped6c+ 2
104Slipping into Luxury6b+ **65
105The Slap of Luxury7a *8
106The Luxury Gap7a 11
107Internal Reflection6a 49
108Gladness4c 20
109Madness6b 22
110Sadness5a 28
111SadnessE1 4c 7
112Blandness4c 12
113Badness4a 23
 Winter Climbs 
115The Gathering GloomIII 1
116Per Ardva Ad AstraIII *2
117Dear AlisonIV  
IV * 
IV * 
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 

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