Climbs 109
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 130m a.s.l
Faces E

Food for Parasites F7a+ © Reynish

Crag features

One of the three-star sandstone inland crags with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 55m.

Access is much improved since the 2008 BMC/SWAG crag clean-up.

Many routes have been rebolted from 2007 onwards, but be wary of older, corroded bolts. Use your judgement.

Most of the crag gets the sun early in the day, with the Luxury Walls in the sun from early afternoon to early evening.

May 2010: The crag is mostly dry, and is in very good condition.

Many routes on the Upper Tier have been rebolted, and worth a visit.

Although seepage can be a problem, some routes stay dry even in the rain.

Please contact the crag moderator if you have any concerns about bolts or other fixed protection.

Approach notes

Follow the A469 N from Caerphilly, taking the first exit off the roundabout signposted for Llanbradach. Park on right after traffic calming chicane.

Walk back along road and follow path up under the railway line. Turn L along a track.

Access to the lower tier is on the R, following a good path along the edge of the pool to reach the Luxury Walls.

To access the upper tier, climb over a metal gate at the end of the track. Continue on for around 100m, until you reach a gently inclined path on the R. Follow this path until it levels out and wander to the left until you reach the first routes of the upper tier.

Usual precautions re. cars: don't leave valuables visible.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Reports suggest peregrine are nesting on the upper tier - please avoid climbing here during the above dates.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
As of 17th May 2015, routes between "Sadness" and "Internal Reflection" on Pool Wall cleared of brambles and cleaned. Also cleared foliage and brambles on the Upper Tier between "Aptitude Test" and "Incidentally". "You Are What You Is" cleaned and brushed so get on it before the jungle returns. "Aptitude Test" and "Merthyr Infill" currently do not have a safe anchor - traverse awkwardly to the anchor of "My Blue Bell".
nikgoile - 19/May/15
The upper tier is currently heavily overgrown with ferns and midges everywhere! I plan to go cut them all down as it isnt very enjoyable to be up there. From my experience this summer you need quite a long period of dry weather before routes are dry enough
rhys mence - 04/Sep/12
Not impressed. Crumbly rock and lots of biting midges.
Tomar - 03/May/11
Was there last night, Be aware of a Wasp nest at the base of the decent from the upper tier on the left its in amongst the old trees that have fallen down. They were less than best pleased when one of our party crossed over them!!!
Mark Batey - 16/Jul/09
no way I'm actually unlucky enough to be from Llanbradach cant believe that i lived there for 20 yrs and never ever found this gem, Dont Leave Anything in Your Car!
uriel - 06/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Western Wall
2 Horns A Plenty 6a+ 7
3 Magellan's Straight? 6b+ 3
4 Maurice Chevaliers 7a 1
5 Bas Chevaliers E3 1
6 Moutton Dagger 6c * 3
7 Peel Back the Flaps 6b+ * 2
8 Jamb One In E1 5b * 1
9 Hush Money 7a+ 1
10 Contraband 7c *** 14
11 Boston Strangler 7b * 1
12 Balance Sheet 6a 3
13 Cashflow Crisis 6a+ 2
14 Wert's Famous Taxi Ride 6b 2
  Upper Tier
16 Hedge Of Thyme S 4
17 Conan's Boil 4c 9
18 The Lapse
-
6a+ 3
19 Roraima 6c * 3
20 Three Men In A Goat 6c * 5
21 Once Bitten 6b * 15
22 Twice Shy 6a * 27
23 Hollow Feeling 6b * 7
24 Practice What You Preach E3  
25 Pampered 6b * 8
26 You Change Me 6c+ * 6
27 Nappy Rush 6b * 32
28 Torch The Earth 7b+ * 1
29 Dirty As A Dog 6b * 24
30 Dirty As A Dog Direct
-
6c ** 3
31 Desert Storm 7a+ ** 9
32 Twenty Second Chance 7a+ * 1
33 Sixty Second Go See 7a * 2
34 Roaring Forties 6b+ * 13
35 Between The Lines 6b+ * 9
36 The Missing Quarter 6b+ 1
37 Saboo Direct 6c 2
38 Dandelion 6b 5
39 Burdoch 6b 2
40 Blinded by Love 6b+ ** 9
41 The Laughing Policeman 6b+ 3
42 Fair Cop 6b+ * 3
43 Aptitude Test 7a ** 5
44 The Merthyr Infill 6c * 8
45 My Blue Bell 6a+ 23
46 All Sand Together 6c+ * 3
47 Red 'Erring 6b+ 5
48 Plaque Attack 6b+ * 15
49 Incidentally 6b+ 9
50 Cop The Lot 7a 2
51 The Caerphilly Cop Out 6c+ 2
52 I Am What I Am 6b * 28
53 You Are What You Is 6b+ ** 24
54 Is it What You are That is? 6c * 5
55 The Brush Down 7a 1
56 The Brush Up 7a 1
57 My Little Routey Wooty 6a+ 4
  Upper Tier Right
59 Harrowed Harovians 6b+ * 8
60 Saboo 6c 1
  Loss Leader Area
62 Amnesia 7a 1
63 Insomnia 6c 2
64 Acatalepsia 6a+ 6
  Expansionist Wall
66 The Link Pitch (Left) 5a 4
67 The Caerphilly Contract 7b+ ** 5
68 Little White Lies 6c+ ** 5
69 The Link Pitch (Right)
-
4c 6
70 The Expansionist E3 ** 6
71 Grit Box 7a+ *** 2
72 Giant Sand 7a ** 2
  Sub-Contractor's Wall
74 Sub-Contraction 7a 2
75 Simple Addition 6c * 16
76 Post Expressionist 6b * 47
77 Too Keynes by Half 6c * 34
  Cascade Walls
79 Falling Freely 7a+ 1
80 Splashdown 6c+ 2
81 Total Recoil 6b+ * 5
82 Cascade 6c+ * 3
83 Sphagnum 45 6b 5
84 Right Of Spring
-
6b 2
85 Splash It On All Over
-
6c 1
86 Bathtime 6a+ 2
  Sinister Walls
88 Bringeth yon Leach 7a+ * 2
89 Food For Parasites 7a+ ** 17
90 The Host 6c * 5
91 Giving It All Up 7a * 3
92 Letters Of Life 6c * 9
93 Overleaf 6b * 2
94 Dreaming in Colour 7a ** 2
95 The Evil Eye 7a 1
96 In Blood, Of Life, Of Sin? 7a+ * 2
97 Abbatoir And Costello 7b+ ** 2
98 Sinister 7b ** 8
99 Snapper 6c * 2
  Luxury Wall
101 Shadow Of The Sun 7a ** 11
102 Slip Into Something Sexy 7a+ *** 23
103 Slipped 6c+ 2
104 Slipping into Luxury 6b+ ** 63
105 The Slap of Luxury 7a * 8
106 The Luxury Gap 7a 11
107 Internal Reflection 6a 49
108 Gladness 4c 22
109 Madness 6b 22
110 Sadness 5a 28
111 Sadness E1 4c 7
112 Blandness 4c 12
113 Badness 4a 23
  Winter Climbs
115 The Gathering Gloom III 1
116 Per Ardva Ad Astra III * 2
117 Dear Alison IV  
118 BOSSTRICK
-
IV *  
119 THE BIG FREEZE
-
IV *  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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