Climbs 74
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Sun setting over Brean © westyb3

Crag features

South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.

Approach notes

Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.

From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.

The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide.

The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently

Rockfax App

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The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..." There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Lone Shark
E3 6a 1
HS 4a 1
3Borrowed Time
E1 5c  
4Inwardly Extrovert
S 1
5Do you get Vouchers with This?5c 161
6Brean Dream6a+ *603
7Kraken6b+ *551
8Bikini Atoll6c+ 339
9Coral Sea6c **844
10Chepito7a **725
11Pearl Harbour7a ***763
12Tide Rising7b+ **311
13Three Snaps to HeavenE6 6a 4
E2 5b 6
15Vets' Wall7b 14
16Sargasso Seamonster7a+ 16
17Achtung Torpedo!E5 6b  
18A Heavy Read6b 109
19Clashing Socks7b *193
20KamikazeE5 6a  
21Black Snake Moan8a **90
22Brean Topping8b ***49
23Storm Warning7c+ ***129
24Storm Warning Variation8a **61
25Chulilla7b+ ***315
26Prisoner of Conscience7b+ *104
27The Guilt Edge7c **47
28Prisoner of Bullworker7c+ **41
29The Milky Bar Kid8a *54
30Prison Break6c+ **17
31Bullworker7c **124
32Global Solutions7c *24
33El Chocco7c ***155
34The Root of Inequity7a+ **264
35Casino Royale7b+ 54
36Yer Yella!E5 6a **9
37Leaving Hanoi6c 23
38Leaving Aviva7a+ 9
39What the Hell is a Womper?6b+ 10
40Distant VoicesE3 6a *4
41Pinnacle Cracks
S 3
42Cove areteE6 6b **2
43Great CornerE2 5a *15
44Eso Ego Wall
E5 5c 1
45The Tennis Elbow Club
E5 6a 1
46Bones ChimneyE4 5c *2
47Cyclops SlabHVS 4c *40
48Brean Team SpecialE6 6b ***2
49Cyclops Gatepost
VD 2
50Pretty Boy Floyd
E2 5a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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