Climbs 75
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Sun setting over Brean © westyb3

Crag features

South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.

Approach notes

Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.

From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.

The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide.

The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..." There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Lone Shark
-
E3 6a 1
2 Lend-a-hand
-
HS 4a 1
3 Borrowed Time
-
E1 5c  
4 Inwardly Extrovert
-
S 1
5 Do you get Vouchers with This? 5c 164
6 Brean Dream 6a+ * 624
7 Kraken 6b+ * 581
8 Bikini Atoll 6c+ 355
9 Coral Sea 6c ** 877
10 Chepito 7a ** 752
11 Pearl Harbour 7a *** 797
12 Tide Rising 7b+ ** 320
13 Three Snaps to Heaven E6 6a 4
14 Torpedo
-
E2 5b 6
15 Vets' Wall 7b 14
16 Sargasso Seamonster 7a+ 16
17 Achtung Torpedo! E5 6b  
18 A Heavy Read 6b 114
19 Clashing Socks 7b * 198
20 Kamikaze E5 6a  
21 Black Snake Moan 8a ** 95
22 Brean Topping 8b *** 36
23 Storm Warning 7c+ *** 110
24 Storm Warning Variation 8a ** 67
25 Chulilla 7b+ *** 334
26 Prisoner of Conscience 7b+ * 97
27 The Guilt Edge 7c ** 43
28 Prisoner of Bullworker 7c+ ** 37
29 The Milky Bar Kid 8a * 34
30 Prison Break 6c+ ** 21
31 Bullworker 7c ** 127
32 Global Solutions 7c * 19
33 El Chocco 7c *** 161
34 The Root of Inequity 7a+ ** 247
35 Casino Royale 7b+ 50
36 Yer Yella! E5 6a ** 9
37 Leaving Hanoi 6c 21
38 Leaving Aviva 7a+ 10
39 What the Hell is a Womper? 6b+ 10
40 Distant Voices E3 6a * 4
41 Pinnacle Cracks
-
S 3
42 Cove arete E6 6b ** 2
43 Great Corner E2 5a * 22
44 Eso Ego Wall
-
E5 5c 1
45 The Tennis Elbow Club
-
E5 6a 1
46 Bones Chimney E4 5c * 2
47 Cyclops Slab HVS 4c * 43
48 Brean Team Special E6 6b *** 2
49 Cyclops Gatepost
-
VD 2
50 Pretty Boy Floyd
-
E2 5a 2
51 Idiot Wind
-
E1 5a 4
52 Force Ten
-
E4 6a ** 2
53 Iraqi War Machine E6 6b ** 1
54 Brean Machine E5 6b ** 3
55 Arthur Scargils Hair Piece
-
E1 5b 1
56 Chepito / Coral Sea Variant 7a+ * 9
57 Castro's corner
-
HS 1
58 The Manly option 7c ** 5
59 Rip tide 7a+ ** 15
60 The Leveller E5 6a 2
61 Pandora's Box VS 4c * 83
62 Crack o'Diamonds E3 6a 3
63 Throwaway Society E5 6a 2
64 Unhalfbricking. D 3
65 Matty Groves. M 2
66 Leige and Lief. S 1
67 L'Attraction Fatale 7c *** 21
68 Snakes 'n' Wankers 8b * 1
69 Chuli Did It 7c *** 12
70 Cycle of Despair 8a+ ** 2
71 Despair 7c+ 4
72 Does Chuli have a Conscience 7a+ ** 12
73 Chepito Harbour * 7a+ ** 7
74 Anne Robinson, You Are The Weakes Link * 7a *** 1
75 Haven *
-
D 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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