UKC

Climbs 79
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Sun setting over Brean © westyb3

Crag features

South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.

Approach notes

Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.

For the sport crag, Boulder Cove, if high tide will be less than 8.5m, you can always walk in and out on the beach, but with a 13m high spring tide, you'll need to give around 2.5hrs for it to recede.

Alternatively,  (daylight permitting as an exit!) you can walk up the steps and over the top to a steep slightly  precarious descent that sometimes has a fixed rope in place, but the bottom section is loose and unstable so take great care.  But this is best left until you know where it is after using it as an exit.


From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.
The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide (? new mods note..., Off stakes? Trad gear? Never seen it done, there is a precarious descent path + rope in place , as described above).
The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Accessible at high tides that are predicted at less than about 8.5m, without having to wait for the sea to go out. Unless there's a big swell, then you might have to wait a short while. At a spring high tide, around 12m, access + egress will be ok from about 2 hrs after high tide and upto 2hrs before the next high. There is an escape route, the start of which looks unstable, but seems ok, with a rope higher up. Takes about 10mins to walk in/ out this way, but don't go looking for it to get in if you aren't familiar with it. Take care on the grassy slopes above the cliff, theres some steps to a safer area.
Fakey Rocks - 29/Oct/17
a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..." There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lone Shark Wall (see Brean Central crags main entry)
2 Leige and Lief. S 1
3 Unhalfbricking. D 3
4 Lone Shark
-
E3 6a 1
5 Lend-a-hand
-
HS 4a 1
6 Borrowed Time
-
E1 5c  
7 Matty Groves. M 2
8 Inwardly Extrovert
-
S 1
  Boulder Cove Left Wall / Beach
10 Do you get Vouchers with This? 5c 199
11 Brean Dream 6a+ * 679
12 Kraken 6b+ * 647
13 Bikini Atoll 6c+ 383
14 Coral Sea 6c ** 973
15 Chepito 7a ** 823
16 Pearl Harbour 7a *** 863
17 Tide Rising 7b+ ** 326
18 Three Snaps to Heaven E6 6a 4
19 Torpedo
-
E2 5b 6
20 Achtung Torpedo! E5 6b  
21 A Heavy Read 6b 141
22 Clashing Socks 7b * 216
23 Kamikaze E5 6a  
  Left Wall Link Ups
25 Vets' Wall 7b 18
26 The Manly option 7c ** 5
27 Chepito / Coral Sea Variant 7a+ * 12
28 Chepito Harbour * 7a+ ** 13
29 Rip tide 7a+ ** 24
Climb name Grade
30 Anne Robinson, You Are The Weakest Link * 7a *** 4
31 Sargasso Seamonster 7a+ 17
32 I Dream of Brean * 6a ** 7
  Boulder Cove Right Wall
34 Black Snake Moan 8a ** 89
35 Brean Topping 8b *** 66
36 Chulilla 7b+ *** 370
37 Prisoner of Conscience 7b+ * 122
38 The Guilt Edge 7c ** 50
39 Bullworker 7c ** 141
40 El Chocco 7c *** 139
41 The Root of Inequity 7a+ ** 296
42 Casino Royale 7b+ 63
43 Yer Yella! E5 6a ** 12
44 Leaving Hanoi 6c 25
45 Leaving Aviva 7a+ 13
46 What the Hell is a Womper? 6b+ 13
  Right Wall Link Ups
48 Storm Warning 7c+ *** 123
49 Storm Warning Variation 8a ** 81
50 Snakes 'n' Wankers 8b * 3
51 Snakes'n'Eliminates * 8b 1
52 Does Chuli have a Conscience 7a+ ** 17
53 Chuli Did It 7c *** 14
54 Prisoner of Bullworker 7c+ ** 43
55 The Milky Bar Kid 8a * 38
56 Prison Break 6c+ ** 24
57 Global Solutions 7c * 28
58 Cycle of Despair 8a+ ** 3
Climb name Grade
59 Despair 7c+ 7
60 Five Knuckle Shuffle * 7a 1
61 Hand to Gland Combat * 7a 1
  To the Great Corner & Ocean Wall
63 Distant Voices E3 6a * 4
64 Pinnacle Cracks
-
S 3
65 Cove arete E6 6b ** 2
66 Great Corner E2 5a * 18
67 Eso Ego Wall
-
E5 5c 1
68 The Tennis Elbow Club
-
E5 6a 1
69 Bones Chimney E4 5c * 2
70 Cyclops Slab HVS 4c * 36
71 Brean Team Special E6 6b *** 2
72 Cyclops Gatepost
-
VD 2
73 Pretty Boy Floyd
-
E2 5a 2
74 Idiot Wind
-
E1 5a 4
75 Force Ten
-
E4 6a ** 2
76 L'Attraction Fatale 7c *** 27
77 Brean Machine E5 6b ** 3
78 Iraqi War Machine E6 6b ** 1
79 Arthur Scargils Hair Piece
-
E1 5b 1
80 Castro's corner
-
HS 1
81 The Leveller E5 6a 2
82 Pandora's Box VS 4c * 75
83 Crack o'Diamonds E3 6a 3
84 Throwaway Society E5 6a 2
85 Haven *
-
D 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Paul Robertson and Fakey Rocks