Climbs 37
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 390m a.s.l
Faces S

Solo on Sword of Gideon © ruairidh

Crag features

The south face gives some excellent rock climbing, minutes from the Applecross road.

-Good climbing even in bad weather.

Sword of Gideon (VS)

The Cioch of Sgurr a'Chaorachain

(Skoor a koorichan) gives Coich Nose (VD)

a classic moutain diff.

Approach notes

Sword of Gideon is in the guide books as VS 4c, not VS 4b so crag moderator should change it to be accurate as the crux is 4c.
SonyaD - 07/Jun/09
There is a fair bit if loose choss on this otherwise great crag. Take care with the belay after pitch 1 of Bumblytwo(Severe), the trees are dead and thin so well dodgy, and the block belay moves with a little push.
nickinscottishmountains - 23/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  A'Choich
2 Rapid Pulse
-
E1 5b *  
3 Impulse
-
HVS 5a  
4 Anonymous Gully
-
III  
  Upper Tier
6 Sideburn
-
S  
7 Parting
-
HS 4b ** 1
8 Gritstone Grooves
-
HVS 5a *  
9 African Waltz
-
VS  
10 Forgotten Corner
-
HVS *  
11 Nyahootna E2 5c **  
12 Snothard MVS 4b * 5
13 Cioch Nose VD *** 699
14 Cioch Nose Direct Start HS 4b ** 9
  Lower Tier
16 Cioch Super Direct/Corner HVS 5a ** 13
17 A'Chioch Upper Continuation VD * 73
  A'Choich lower tier
  North Buttress
  Summit Buttress
21 Excitable Boy
-
V 5 *  
22 Big Daddy
-
E3 5c **  
23 Blade Runner IV * 6
24 Wander Lust
-
IV 6  
25 Synergy
-
HVS  
26 Airwaves
-
E3 5c **  
  South Face No.1 Buttress
28 Ganglion
-
E1 5a 3
29 Old Wounds E3 5c **  
30 Gideon's Wrath HVS 5b ** 13
31 Lost Supper E1 5b ** 10
32 Sword Swallower E2 5c ** 4
33 Sword of Gideon VS 4c ** 309
34 Sword of Gideon Direct Start E1 5b ** 8
35 The Kings of Midian E1 5b ** 1
36 Orcrist E1 5b ** 4
  No. 2 Buttress
38 Anduril
-
VS * 10
39 Bumblytwo
-
VS 4b * 27
40 Bumbly One
-
S * 32
  No. 5 Buttress
42 Striker VS 4c 1
43 Swordstick HS ** 3
44 Roadhog's Wall
-
E3 5c *** 3
  Upper Cliff - Continuation Buttress
46 Pommel VS 5a, 4b * 4
47 Hotline
-
HVS 5a * 1
  Hairpin Buttress

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