UKC

Climbs 13
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SE

P1 of Ebb Tide; girdle traverse of Clogwyn Y Bustach. © jim jones

Crag features

Clogwyn y Bustach (Cliff of the Bullock) is an impressively steep little crag, with a number of routes up to 50m on excellent rock. All the routes are good, but probably the best is Flake Wall (HVS 5a), the undoubted classic of the crag. Titus (E2 5c) and Groan (E2 5b) are both burly climbs while the curious (but unadventurous) may rest assured in the knowledge that the Acoustic Flake (E2 5b) is indeed, err, 'acoustic'.

Quick drying but with some patchy seepage after prolonged rain. 

Approach notes

Approach as for Clogwyn yr Oen from where the steep face of Clogwyn y Bustach can be seen further up the hillside to the left. There is something of a continuation path, which goes up past the LHS of Clogwyn yr Oen and takes an additional 5-10 minutes - a small 'price' to pay for some good climbing.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 South Chimneys
-
VD  
2 Southern Cross
-
VS 4c 5
3 Dol y Twrch
-
E3 5c  
4 Groan
-
E2 5b 2
5 Titus
-
E2 5c * 5
Climb name Grade
6 Gormenghast
-
E2 5b  
7 Acoustic Flake
-
E2 5b * 4
8 Flake Wall HVS 5a * 81
9 Going Straight
-
E1 5b  
10 Mr Flibbertigibbet
-
E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
11 Fiddler on the Dole
-
E1 5b  
12 Creeper
-
VD  
13 The Ebb Tide
-
E2 5b *  

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