Climbs 101
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces NW

Endless Flight E5,6a © S Lynch

Crag features

Probably the most spectacular sandstone crag in Northumberland. Most of the crag is between 10 and 20 metres in height, with some bouldering opportunites.

Approach notes

Turn west of the A696 at Knowesgate. Follow this road, past a left turn and park at a forestry gate on the left. Go through the forest until the track turns right, with a narrower footpath leading straight on. Follow the footpath.

Alternatively, take the left turn, signposted to Bellingham. and park on the right just before Sweethope Loughs, shortly after a left turn. Walk north-west along a forestry footpath.

Both approaches take 20-30 minutes. Have your camera ready, if walking in from the north.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
My new favourite crag. Surprisingly clean and dry on 2nd October (although this was during a dry spell). Excellent routes, views and atmosphere. Walking in from the north recommended - flat 20 minutes.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH - 04/Oct/16
Awesome crag, approaching from the North is a must to appreciate the view! On top of the crag holds a 360 panoramic view, unlike more popular northumberland venues like Bowden, where the popular area (much like stanage popular) gets crowded.
David Bulley - 31/Jul/11
From the north I presume, since there weren't any woods on the way in from the south when I last went. I think coming from the south is best as there is a little car park and the path is less boggy. From the north you need to park on the roadside. There was a cutting through the forest where the path bends to the west(right) taking you to the crag, but this was always very boggy in places.
Tommy Alsop - 18/Jun/11
The walk in has reduced massively now the woods have been cut down - about 20 minutes on good tracks with no navigation difficulties. Just stay on the main path until it turns away from the crag.
alan1234 - 17/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Left Crack
-
MVS 4c 2
2 Dennis
-
E2 6a *  
3 Right Crack
-
VS 5a 1
4 Pitfall
-
E2 5b * 3
5 Aces High
-
E2 5b 3
6 Marquee Metal
-
E3 5c  
7 Eastern Promise
-
E2 5c 1
8 Eastern Ecstasy
-
E4 6a 1
9 Jungle Warfare
-
E3 6b  
10 Eastern Traverse HS 4b * 21
11 East Buttress Direct E3 5c ** 6
12 Thunder Thighs E5 6b *  
13 Idiot Wind E4 5c ** 9
14 Great Chimney VD *** 167
15 Obverse Direct HS 4c * 44
16 Obverse Direct (Direct Finish)
-
HS 5a 3
17 Absent Friend E5 6b *** 1
18 Crisis Zone E7 6c *** 2
19 Endless Flight E5 6a *** 30
20 Endless Flight (Direct)
-
E8 7a ***  
21 Policy of Truth
-
E6 6c *  
22 Boundary Corner VD *** 274
23 Hawk Slab HVS 5a * 46
24 Dove's Nest Crack HVS 5a 2
25 Patchett's Plunge E3 5b ** 8
26 Idiots Delight HS 4c *** 258
27 Loony's Lament HVS 5b * 3
28 Great Wall HVS 5b *** 226
29 Great Wall (Direct Finish) E5 6a ** 5
30 Katana
-
E6 6b  
31 Foxes Hole D 27
32 Spare Rib E4 6a  
33 Karabiner Crack VS 5a 18
34 Bilberry Wall VS 4c 32
35 Bilberry Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a  
36 Nose Chimney VD 38
37 The Wine O
-
HVS 5b 1
38 The Last Retreat E4 6a * 3
39 Nosey Parker E5 6a ** 4
40 Central Gully East D * 62
41 Central Gully West S 4a * 63
42 Northumberland Wall E2 5c *** 117
43 Osiris E3 5c 8
44 Skyline
-
E5 6b 1
45 Pharaoh's Face E3 5c 13
46 Main Wall S 4a ** 257
47 Main Wall (Variation Start)
-
MS 14
48 Lichen Chimney M * 33
49 Broken Blocks Staircase
-
M 12
50 Dirty Flue
-
M 11
51 Blue Arête
-
E4 6a  
52 The Brute HVS 5a * 30
53 Enery's Ammer E2 5b * 20
54 Sweethope Crack HS 4b * 124
55 Disagreement Kind E6 6a  
56 Squeezy Bill VD * 66
57 Rake's Crack E1 5b ** 146
58 Rake's Arête VD * 59
59 Rake's Arête (Direct Finish)
-
E3 5c 2
60 The Jibber
-
E1 5c 26
61 Jacob's Ladder VD ** 282
62 Stairway to Heaven E5 6a *  
63 Epitaph
-
MVS 4b 27
64 Girdle Traverse HVS 5b  
65 Spider Crack
-
MVS 4c 15
66 Broken Wing E3 5c 8
67 Raven's Nest VD ** 144
68 Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Left)
-
VS 5a 5
69 Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Right)
-
VS 5a 1
70 Thin Ice E4 6a ** 31
71 Heather Slab
-
D 2
72 Old Holborn
-
E1 5b  
73 Golden Virginia E1 5b  
74 California Crack HVS 5a * 21
75 Arete and Groove VD 2
76 Task Force
-
E3 5c  
77 Golden Gate
-
MVS 4c 1
78 West Chimney
-
D 4
79 The 16½ Pint Pig
-
E1 5b  
80 War Monger
-
E1 5b 1
81 Lee's Leap
-
MVS 4c  
82 If Looks Could Kill
-
E1 5c  
83 At the Witches Trial
-
HVS 5a 1
84 'A' Crack
-
VD 4
85 Willing to Sin
-
E4 6a *  
86 'B' Crack
-
HVS 5a * 4
87 Blowin Free
-
E1 5b  
88 Corned Beef
-
E1 5b  
89 'B' Corner
-
D 3
90 'B' Arête
-
VD 1
91 Games Without Frontears
-
HVS 5b  
92 Two Tear Crack
-
E1 5c * 3
93 War Without Tears
-
E1 5c  
94 Veil of Tears
-
HVS 5b  
95 Silently Snitched from Stu
-
E1 5b  
96 Rather Bolder
-
E2 6a  
97 Hey Up Me Duck
-
VS 4c 2
98 Rake's Progress VD * 28
99 End Chimney
-
M 3
100 Anybody Out There?
-
E1 5b 1
101 Expecting to Fly * E5 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tommy Alsop