Climbs 101
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces NW

Endless Flight E5,6a © S Lynch

Crag features

Probably the most spectacular sandstone crag in Northumberland. Most of the crag is between 10 and 20 metres in height, with some bouldering opportunites.

Approach notes

Turn west of the A696 at Knowesgate. Follow this road, past a left turn and park at a forestry gate on the left. Go through the forest until the track turns right, with a narrower footpath leading straight on. Follow the footpath.

Alternatively, take the left turn, signposted to Bellingham. and park on the right just before Sweethope Loughs, shortly after a left turn. Walk north-west along a forestry footpath.

Both approaches take 20-30 minutes. Have your camera ready, if walking in from the north.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
My new favourite crag. Surprisingly clean and dry on 2nd October (although this was during a dry spell). Excellent routes, views and atmosphere. Walking in from the north recommended - flat 20 minutes.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH - 04/Oct/16
Awesome crag, approaching from the North is a must to appreciate the view! On top of the crag holds a 360 panoramic view, unlike more popular northumberland venues like Bowden, where the popular area (much like stanage popular) gets crowded.
David Bulley - 31/Jul/11
From the north I presume, since there weren't any woods on the way in from the south when I last went. I think coming from the south is best as there is a little car park and the path is less boggy. From the north you need to park on the roadside. There was a cutting through the forest where the path bends to the west(right) taking you to the crag, but this was always very boggy in places.
Tommy Alsop - 18/Jun/11
The walk in has reduced massively now the woods have been cut down - about 20 minutes on good tracks with no navigation difficulties. Just stay on the main path until it turns away from the crag.
alan1234 - 17/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Left Crack
MVS 4c 2
E2 6a * 
3Right Crack
VS 5a 1
E2 5b *3
5Aces High
E2 5b 3
6Marquee Metal
E3 5c  
7Eastern Promise
E2 5c 1
8Eastern Ecstasy
E4 6a 1
9Jungle Warfare
E3 6b  
10Eastern TraverseHS 4b *19
11East Buttress DirectE3 5c **6
12Thunder ThighsE5 6b * 
13Idiot WindE4 5c **9
14Great ChimneyVD ***157
15Obverse DirectHS 4c *42
16Obverse Direct (Direct Finish)
HS 5a 3
17Absent FriendE5 6b ***3
18Crisis ZoneE7 6c ***2
19Endless FlightE5 6a ***45
20Endless Flight (Direct)
E8 7a *** 
21Policy of Truth
E6 6c * 
22Boundary CornerVD ***262
23Hawk SlabHVS 5a *43
24Dove's Nest CrackHVS 5a 2
25Patchett's PlungeE3 5b **7
26Idiots DelightHS 4c ***240
27Loony's LamentHVS 5b *3
28Great WallHVS 5b ***210
29Great Wall (Direct Finish)E5 6a **5
E6 6b  
31Foxes HoleD 27
32Spare RibE4 6a  
33Karabiner CrackVS 5a 18
34Bilberry WallVS 4c 33
35Bilberry Wall (Direct Start)
E3 6a  
36Nose ChimneyVD 36
37The Wine O
HVS 5b 1
38The Last RetreatE4 6a *3
39Nosey ParkerE5 6a **4
40Central Gully EastD *61
41Central Gully WestS 4a *66
42Northumberland WallE2 5c ***110
43OsirisE3 5c 7
E5 6b 1
45Pharaoh's FaceE3 5c 12
46Main WallS 4a **252
47Main Wall (Variation Start)
MS 13
48Lichen ChimneyM *32
49Broken Blocks Staircase
M 12
50Dirty Flue
M 11
51Blue Arête
E4 6a  
52The BruteHVS 5a *28
53Enery's AmmerE2 5b *19
54Sweethope CrackHS 4b *115
55Disagreement KindE6 6a  
56Squeezy BillVD *62
57Rake's CrackE1 5b **141
58Rake's ArêteVD *54
59Rake's Arête (Direct Finish)
E3 5c 2
60The Jibber
E1 5c 28
61Jacob's LadderVD **271
62Stairway to HeavenE5 6a * 
MVS 4b 27
64Girdle TraverseHVS 5b  
65Spider Crack
MVS 4c 15
66Broken WingE3 5c 8
67Raven's NestVD **139
68Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Left)
VS 5a 5
69Raven's Nest (Variation Finish Right)
VS 5a 1
70Thin IceE4 6a **29
71Heather Slab
D 2
72Old Holborn
E1 5b  
73Golden VirginiaE1 5b  
74California CrackHVS 5a *21
75Arete and GrooveVD 2
76Task Force
E3 5c  
77Golden Gate
MVS 4c 1
78West Chimney
D 4
79The 16½ Pint Pig
E1 5b  
80War Monger
E1 5b 1
81Lee's Leap
MVS 4c  
82If Looks Could Kill
E1 5c  
83At the Witches Trial
HVS 5a 1
84'A' Crack
VD 4
85Willing to Sin
E4 6a * 
86'B' Crack
HVS 5a *4
87Blowin Free
E1 5b  
88Corned Beef
E1 5b  
89'B' Corner
D 3
90'B' Arête
VD 1
91Games Without Frontears
HVS 5b  
92Two Tear Crack
E1 5c *3
93War Without Tears
E1 5c  
94Veil of Tears
HVS 5b  
95Silently Snitched from Stu
E1 5b  
96Rather Bolder
E2 6a  
97Hey Up Me Duck
VS 4c 2
98Rake's ProgressVD *26
99End Chimney
M 3
100Anybody Out There?
E1 5b 1
101Expecting to Fly *E5 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tommy Alsop