Climbs 160
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 154m a.s.l
Faces S

The Nadser © Sean Bell

Crag features

The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Approach notes

Access relationships at Kyloe Crag and Kyloe-in-the-woods are good, please ensure that they stay that way. Park sensibly (don't block the gateways) and keep dogs under control - particular when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle.

***Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - there will be a sign on site when the stalker is working and Woodland Management will prohibit access to the crag.***

Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Quick message to anyone vising the crag on 1st & 2nd October. Newcastle University Mountaineering Club will be running two sessions for beginners ~20 people, using top ropes and may be hogging routes for a little while. Any issues with this please don't hesitate to get in touch with me on c.furness1@ncl.ac.uk. Thanks
connor_furness - 04/Sep/16
Sign was up on Saturday to say Crag was our of bounds for shooting, sign is screwed in place so looks semi- permenant. Bit disapointed after long treck up from Oldham, But nearby Kyloe (Out) was OK
karlb - 20/Apr/15
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Approach buttress 
2The Cometf7A+ **1
3Pockets of ImaginationProject  
4Full MoonProject  
5Half Moonf7B ***2
6High Tidef6B 1
7The Crackf6B 4
8Low Traversef6A 4
 The Hobbit 
10Warm Up Traverse
-
f5+ 87
11Classic Crimp Traversef6A 5
12Rivendell CrackVS 5a *3
13Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
14ShelobHVS 5b  
15Evendim CornerD 4
16AragornHS 4c 7
17FrodoHS 4c 6
18LegolasVS 4c 2
19The HobbitVD 4
20BilboS 4b 27
 Swan Wall 
22Little Arete
-
D 16
23Swan Wall Aretef6A 17
24Swan Wall Directf5+ *118
25Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 8
26Swan WallVS 4c *78
27Ostrich CrackVD *57
28White Winef5 193
29Rosef5+ 199
30Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 23
31Marmosetf4 *142
32Marmoset SSf5+ 28
33Pink Ginf6B+ *31
34Red Rumf6B **174
35Red Rum (full route)
-
E2 6a **9
36BICf7B+ 3
37The Elf Direct (full route)
-
E1 5c *19
38The Elf Directf5+ *261
39The Elf Direct SSf6C 24
40Elf Aretef6B 52
41Elf Arete SS
-
f6B+ 24
42The ElfVS 5a *34
43Bad NewsE3 6a  
44Right Hand Recess CrackVD 41
45The TwitchHS 4c 10
 Main Buttress 
47Bad Company Traversef6B 15
48Bad Company Low Traversef6C 8
49Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **31
50Badfingerf5+ **309
51Badfinger SSf6B *72
52Not Badf6A+ *70
53Not Bad SSf6B+ *29
54Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **26
55Bad Companyf5+ **407
56Bad Company Leapf6C *27
57Catapultf8A **2
58Monk Lifef8B+ ***3
59Monty Python's Traverse
-
f7B **3
60Monty Python's Flying Circus (full route)
-
VS 6a ***9
61Monty Python's Directf6C+ **235
62Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***122
63Monty Python's Flying Circusf6C ***38
64Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *12
65Crouching Tigerf7B+ **51
66Hidden Dragonf7C **28
67Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragonf7B * 
68Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***37
69Crack of Gloom SSf6A 19
70Cubby's Lipf7B+ **51
71Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 3
72Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
73The Pearler (full route)E3 5c *2
74Pearler Left Handf7A **19
75The Pearlerf5+ *31
76WoodlarkE2 5c **2
77The Pearler SSf6A+ 14
78Pearler Right Handf7C *10
79Pearler RH SS
-
f7C+ 3
80Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *20
81Jocks and Geordiesf6C *227
82Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***171
83The Yorkshiremanf7B ***62
84The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***13
85The Queens Earf7A+ 26
86The Queens Ear SSf7B 14
87Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***22
88Thin Hand SpecialE1 5c **29
89Hitchhiker's Directf7B *20
90Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **6
91Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxyf7A+ ***165
92Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 13
93The Rack Direct SSf7C *2
94The Rack LHf5+ 10
95The Rackf4 24
96Leviathanf8B+ *** 
97Playing Rudiesf7A+ **103
98Smart Alecf6C 30
 The Flutings 
100GreensleavesS 4b *11
101The Missing LinkHVS 5b *5
102Cruella de Vil
-
f6C 8
103Stirring up Trouble (full route)
-
E3 5c *1
104Stirring Up TroubleE3 5c *11
105Trouble ShooterE3 6a **2
106The Flutings DirectVS 4c **94
107PiccoloS 4a **62
108VerticalityE1 5a *58
109Zed ClimbVS 4c **124
110The Harp (full route)
-
VS 5a ***40
111The HarpVS 5a ***43
112Lower Harp Traversef6A+ 6
113Eurydicef5+ 1
114OrpheusE3 5c * 
115The MiteVS 4c 5
116The MiterVS 5a 3
 Green Man 
118The Nadserf7B+ *53
119The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 7
120Forgotten Wall
-
VS 4c 6
121The HulkE1 5c 16
122Green ManVS 4c *26
123Not-so-Greenf5 4
124Not-so-Green SS
-
f6B 1
125Evergreen Corner
-
S 4b 13
126Evergreen Wallf5 3
 Bobby Dazzler 
128Primitive CrackS 4a *78
129Primatef6A+ 2
130Dingly Dellf5+ *19
131Bobby Dazzlerf5+ **15
132Autowindf6A+ *10
133Twinkle Toesf6C *1
134Robbers Dogf5+ *18
135Robbers Dog Arete
-
f6A+ 4
136PianoS 4c **15
137Fluted CrackS 4b *10
138Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
139The Undercling Traversef6B 19
140Macgregor
-
f7A+ 4
 High T 
142The EntertainerE3 5c **4
143FeanorE6 6b *1
144Upper CrustE5 6b ***1
145High SocietyE6 6b ** 
146Tom's First Problemf7A+ 1
147Tom's Second Problem
-
f6A+ 3
148High TE3 5c ***15
149The Crackf6C 9
 The Crucifix 
151Crucifix Traversef6A ***73
152The Road to Nowheref5+ 51
153The CrucifixHVS 5a ***43
154CrucifixionE3 5c * 
155The ProwE9 7a *** 
156Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
157The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
158The Gauntlet Traversef7A **3
159The Gauntlet (full route)
-
E1 5b ***43
160The GauntletE1 5b ***25
161The Iron Fist (full route)
-
E1 5c 2
162The Iron FistE1 5c 4
163Plastic Novelties
-
f5+ 1
 The Arch 
165Stealthf7B 2
166The Sicklef7A 11
167Flying Scotsmanf7A *29
168Arch Traversef7A **11
169Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 2
170Arch Rival
-
f7B 7

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