Climbs 161
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 154m a.s.l
Faces S

The Nadser © Sean Bell

Crag features

The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Approach notes

Access relationships at Kyloe Crag and Kyloe-in-the-woods are good, please ensure that they stay that way. Park sensibly (don't block the gateways) and keep dogs under control - particular when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle.

***Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - there will be a sign on site when the stalker is working and Woodland Management will prohibit access to the crag.***

Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Quick message to anyone vising the crag on 1st & 2nd October. Newcastle University Mountaineering Club will be running two sessions for beginners ~20 people, using top ropes and may be hogging routes for a little while. Any issues with this please don't hesitate to get in touch with me on c.furness1@ncl.ac.uk. Thanks
connor_furness - 04/Sep/16
Sign was up on Saturday to say Crag was our of bounds for shooting, sign is screwed in place so looks semi- permenant. Bit disapointed after long treck up from Oldham, But nearby Kyloe (Out) was OK
karlb - 20/Apr/15
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Approach buttress
2 The Comet f7A+ ** 1
3 Pockets of Imagination Project  
4 Full Moon Project  
5 Half Moon f7B *** 4
6 High Tide f6B 1
7 The Crack f6B 4
8 Low Traverse f6A 4
  The Hobbit
10 Warm Up Traverse
-
f5+ 91
11 Classic Crimp Traverse f6A 6
12 Rivendell Crack VS 5a * 3
13 Mordor Front HVS 5a 2
14 Shelob HVS 5b  
15 Evendim Corner D 4
16 Aragorn HS 4c 7
17 Frodo HS 4c 8
18 Legolas VS 4c 4
19 The Hobbit VD 4
20 Bilbo S 4b 27
  Swan Wall
22 Little Arete
-
D 16
23 Swan Wall Arete f6A 18
24 Swan Wall Direct f5+ * 123
25 Swan Wall (full route) VS 4c 8
26 Swan Wall VS 4c * 78
27 Ostrich Crack VD * 59
28 White Wine f5 198
29 Rose f5+ 204
30 Marmoset (full route) MVS 4c 24
31 Marmoset f4 * 148
32 Marmoset SS f5+ 29
33 Pink Gin f6B+ * 31
34 Red Rum f6B ** 183
35 Red Rum (full route)
-
E2 6a ** 9
36 BIC f7B+ 3
37 The Elf Direct (full route)
-
E1 5c * 17
38 The Elf Direct f5+ * 269
39 The Elf Direct SS f6C 25
40 Elf Arete f6B 53
41 Elf Arete SS
-
f6B+ 24
42 The Elf VS 5a * 32
43 Bad News E3 6a  
44 Right Hand Recess Crack VD 44
45 The Twitch HS 4c 11
  Main Buttress
47 Bad Company Traverse f6B 16
48 Bad Company Low Traverse f6C 8
49 Badfinger (full route) E2 5c ** 31
50 Badfinger f5+ ** 322
51 Badfinger SS f6B * 73
52 Not Bad f6A+ * 77
53 Not Bad SS f6B+ * 29
54 Bad Company (full route) E2 5c ** 26
55 Bad Company f5+ ** 420
56 Bad Company Leap f6C * 27
57 Catapult f8A ** 2
58 Monk Life f8B+ *** 3
59 Monty Python's Traverse
-
f7B ** 3
60 Monty Python's Flying Circus (full route)
-
VS 6a *** 6
61 Monty Python's Direct f6C+ ** 248
62 Monty Python's Direct SS f7A+ *** 133
63 Monty Python's Flying Circus f6C *** 33
64 Monty Python's Flying Circus SS f7B * 11
65 Crouching Tiger f7B+ ** 47
66 Hidden Dragon f7C ** 22
67 Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon f7B *  
68 Crack of Gloom (full route) VS 4c *** 52
69 Crack of Gloom SS f6A 18
70 Cubby's Lip f7B+ ** 44
71 Cubbys - Jocks Link f7C+ 3
72 Cubbys - Yorkshireman Link f8A+  
73 The Pearler (full route) E3 5c * 2
74 Pearler Left Hand f7A ** 20
75 The Pearler f5+ * 34
76 Woodlark E2 5c ** 2
77 The Pearler SS f6A+ 15
78 Pearler Right Hand f7C * 10
79 Pearler RH SS
-
f7C+ 3
80 Pearler-Jocks Link f7B * 21
81 Jocks and Geordies f6C * 245
82 Jocks and Geordies SS f7A *** 183
83 The Yorkshireman f7B *** 69
84 The Yorkshireman SS f7C+ *** 23
85 The Queens Ear f7A+ 28
86 The Queens Ear SS f7B 14
87 Thin Hand Special (full route) E1 5c *** 22
88 Thin Hand Special E1 5c ** 27
89 Havin' a Lark f7A *** 1
90 Hitchhiker's Direct f7B * 23
91 Hitchhiker's Direct SS f7C+ ** 13
92 Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy f7A+ *** 179
93 Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand) f7C+ 8
94 The Rack Direct SS f7C * 2
95 The Rack LH f5+ 11
96 The Rack f4 26
97 Leviathan f8B+ ***  
98 Playing Rudies f7A+ ** 112
99 Smart Alec f6C 31
  The Flutings
101 Greensleaves S 4b * 11
102 The Missing Link HVS 5b * 5
103 Cruella de Vil
-
f6C 8
104 Stirring up Trouble (full route)
-
E3 5c * 1
105 Stirring Up Trouble E3 5c * 11
106 Trouble Shooter E3 6a ** 2
107 The Flutings Direct VS 4c ** 109
108 Piccolo S 4a ** 70
109 Verticality E1 5a * 57
110 Zed Climb VS 4c ** 131
111 The Harp (full route)
-
VS 5a *** 55
112 The Harp VS 5a *** 45
113 Lower Harp Traverse f6A+ 6
114 Eurydice f5+ 1
115 Orpheus E3 5c *  
116 The Mite VS 4c 5
117 The Miter VS 5a 3
  Green Man
119 The Nadser f7B+ * 56
120 The Nadser (RH variation) f6A 7
121 Forgotten Wall
-
VS 4c 6
122 The Hulk E1 5c 17
123 Green Man VS 4c * 29
124 Not-so-Green f5 4
125 Not-so-Green SS
-
f6B 1
126 Evergreen Corner
-
S 4b 12
127 Evergreen Wall f5 3
  Bobby Dazzler
129 Primitive Crack S 4a * 77
130 Primate f6A+ 2
131 Dingly Dell f5+ * 17
132 Bobby Dazzler f5+ ** 15
133 Autowind f6A+ * 10
134 Twinkle Toes f6C * 1
135 Robbers Dog f5+ * 18
136 Robbers Dog Arete
-
f6A+ 4
137 Piano S 4c ** 15
138 Fluted Crack S 4b * 10
139 Penny Whistle E2 5c *  
140 The Undercling Traverse f6B 20
141 Macgregor
-
f7A+ 4
  High T
143 The Entertainer E3 5c ** 4
144 Feanor E6 6b * 1
145 Upper Crust E5 6b *** 1
146 High Society E6 6b **  
147 Tom's First Problem f7A+ 1
148 Tom's Second Problem
-
f6A+ 2
149 High T E3 5c *** 9
150 The Crack f6C 9
  The Crucifix
152 Crucifix Traverse f6A *** 73
153 The Road to Nowhere f5+ 51
154 The Crucifix HVS 5a *** 27
155 Crucifixion E3 5c *  
156 The Prow E9 7a ***  
157 Hourglass Chimney S 4b  
158 The Spanish Tickler f7C+ ***  
159 The Gauntlet Traverse f7A ** 2
160 The Gauntlet (full route)
-
E1 5b *** 34
161 The Gauntlet E1 5b *** 25
162 The Iron Fist (full route)
-
E1 5c 2
163 The Iron Fist E1 5c 3
164 Plastic Novelties
-
f5+ 1
  The Arch
166 Stealth f7B 2
167 The Sickle f7A 11
168 Flying Scotsman f7A * 32
169 Arch Traverse f7A ** 11
170 Arch Traverse Eliminate f7A+ 2
171 Arch Rival
-
f7B 8

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