Climbs 166
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 154m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Nadser © Sean Bell

Crag features

The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Approach notes

Check https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=546

Scottish Woodlands (the landowner of Kyloe In) have confirmed that access is now permitted at all times, regardless of stalking activity at Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In).

It is crucial that climbers approach the crag via the track described below and do not deviate from it or the crag. Do not thrash through the woodland from Kyloe Out.

Parking and Approach

Parking is limited at Kyloe so please be considerate - make sure your vehicle doesn't block the road or any gates. NOTE THAT THE GATES AT kYLOE IN OPEN OUTWARDS. Do not park in the gate 'fan'. Scottish Woodlands do access the woods some weekends so it is vital the gate isn't blocked. 

The agreed approach starts at the northern gate: grid reference NU 03532,38982. Follow the forest road up a slight incline. After about 600m A track merges from the right, ignore this and continue to a fork 100m ahead . Take the right branch. Follow the right fork for 300m then turn right at the T-junction. The rocks soon appear to the left of the track just after an obvious disclaimer sign.

 

 

Access Advice

Access relationships at Kyloe are currently good, please ensure that they stay that way:

  • Park sensibly - don't block gates, the road or park on the farmer's mown lawn (see parking section below for more info)
  • Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - it is essential that you only walk along the route described below to get to the crag for safety reasons.
  • No fires
  • Take all litter home including any found at the crag
  • Keep dogs under control (particularly when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle)

Remember, access to Kyloe In is a privilege, not a right and inconsiderate or irresponsible behaviour can lose it. If there are any cases of poor climber behaviour or conflict with the stalker or management, please inform the BMC access team so we can deal with the issue before it gets out of hand.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 September to 30 March

Reason: Live Firing

Scottish Woodlands (the landowner of Kyloe In) have confirmed that access is now permitted at all times, regardless of stalking activity at Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In).

It is crucial that climbers approach the crag via the track described below and do not deviate from it or the crag. Do not thrash through the woodland from Kyloe Out.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Quick message to anyone vising the crag on 1st & 2nd October. Newcastle University Mountaineering Club will be running two sessions for beginners ~20 people, using top ropes and may be hogging routes for a little while. Any issues with this please don't hesitate to get in touch with me on c.furness1@ncl.ac.uk. Thanks
connor_furness - 04/Sep/16
Sign was up on Saturday to say Crag was our of bounds for shooting, sign is screwed in place so looks semi- permenant. Bit disapointed after long treck up from Oldham, But nearby Kyloe (Out) was OK
karlb - 20/Apr/15
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Approach buttress
2 The Comet f7A+ ** 1
3 Pockets of Imagination Project  
4 Full Moon Project  
5 Half Moon f7B *** 4
6 High Tide f6B 3
7 The Crack f6B 4
8 Low Traverse f6A 4
  The Hobbit
10 Warm Up Traverse
-
f5+ 109
11 Classic Crimp Traverse f6A 11
12 Rivendell Crack VS 5a * 5
13 Mordor Front HVS 5a 3
14 Shelob HVS 5b  
15 Evendim Corner D 5
16 Aragorn HS 4c 8
17 Frodo HS 4c 9
18 Legolas VS 4c 7
19 The Hobbit VD 8
20 Bilbo S 4b 35
  Swan Wall
22 Little Arete
-
D 25
23 Swan Wall Arete f6A 20
24 Swan Wall Direct f5+ * 170
25 Swan Wall (full route) VS 4c 12
26 Swan Wall VS 4c * 89
27 Ostrich Crack VD * 78
28 White Wine f5 273
29 Rose f5+ 279
30 Marmoset (full route) MVS 4c 28
31 Marmoset f4 * 196
32 Marmoset SS f5+ 37
33 Pink Gin f6B+ * 37
34 Red Rum f6B ** 207
35 Red Rum (full route)
-
E2 6a ** 11
36 BIC f7B+ 3
37 The Elf Direct (full route)
-
E1 5c * 19
38 The Elf Direct f5+ * 339
39 The Elf Direct SS f6C 31
40 Elf Arete f6B 70
41 Elf Arete SS
-
f6B+ 27
42 The Elf VS 5a * 39
43 Bad News E3 6a 1
44 Right Hand Recess Crack VD 47
45 The Twitch HS 4c 12
  Main Buttress
47 Bad Company Traverse f6B 17
48 Bad Company Low Traverse f6C 8
49 Badfinger (full route) E2 5c ** 34
50 Badfinger f5+ ** 392
51 Badfinger SS f6B * 100
52 Not Bad f6A+ * 102
53 Not Bad SS f6B+ * 40
54 Bad Company (full route) E2 5c ** 30
55 Bad Company f5+ ** 509
56 Bad Company Leap f6C * 35
57 Catapult f8A ** 2
58 Monk Life f8B+ *** 6
59 Monty Python's Traverse
-
f7B ** 3
Climb name Grade
60 Monty Python's Flying Circus (full route)
-
VS 6a *** 8
61 Monty Python's Direct f6C+ ** 301
62 Monty Python's Direct SS f7A+ *** 160
63 Monty Python's Flying Circus f6C *** 40
64 Monty Python's Flying Circus SS f7B * 13
65 Crouching Tiger f7B+ ** 63
66 Hidden Dragon f7C ** 34
67 Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon f7B * 1
68 Crack of Gloom (full route) VS 4c *** 44
69 Crack of Gloom SS f6A 18
70 Cubby's Lip f7B+ ** 55
71 Cubbys - Pearler Right Hand Link
-
f8A ***  
72 Cubbys - Jocks Link f7C+ 5
73 Cubbys - Yorkshireman Link f8A+  
74 The Pearler (full route) E3 5c * 3
75 Pearler Left Hand f7A ** 24
76 The Pearler f5+ * 42
77 Woodlark E2 5c ** 2
78 The Pearler SS f6A+ 22
79 Pearler Right Hand f7C * 18
80 Pearler RH SS
-
f7C+ 5
81 Pearler-Jocks Link f7B * 29
82 Jocks and Geordies f6C * 307
83 Jocks and Geordies SS f7A *** 220
84 The Yorkshireman f7B *** 72
85 The Yorkshireman SS f7C+ *** 20
86 The Queens Ear f7A+ 50
87 The Queens Ear SS f7B 21
88 Thin Hand Special (full route) E1 5c *** 26
89 Thin Hand Special E1 5c ** 37
90 Havin' a Lark f7A *** 1
91 Hitchhiker's Direct f7B * 22
92 Hitchhiker's Direct SS f7C+ ** 13
93 Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy f7A+ *** 207
94 Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand) f7C+ 14
95 The Rack Direct SS f7C * 5
96 The Rack LH f5+ 13
97 The Rack f4 37
98 Leviathan f8B+ ***  
99 Playing Rudies f7A+ ** 136
100 Smart Alec f6C 35
101 Pearler - Yorkshireman Link f8A 1
102 Pearled Out f8A+  
103 The Duffer Direct f5+  
  The Flutings
105 Greensleaves S 4b * 12
106 The Missing Link HVS 5b * 6
107 Cruella de Vil
-
f6C 11
108 Stirring up Trouble (full route)
-
E3 5c * 2
109 Stirring Up Trouble E3 5c * 13
110 Trouble Shooter E3 6a ** 2
111 The Flutings Direct VS 4c ** 128
112 Piccolo S 4a ** 77
113 Verticality E1 5a * 67
114 Zed Climb VS 4c ** 133
115 The Harp (full route)
-
VS 5a *** 49
116 The Harp VS 5a *** 55
117 Lower Harp Traverse f6A+ 7
118 Eurydice f5+ 3
Climb name Grade
119 Orpheus E3 5c * 1
120 The Mite VS 4c 7
121 The Miter VS 5a 4
122 Spearmint Rhino f8A  
  Green Man
124 The Nadser f7B+ * 57
125 The Nadser (RH variation) f6A 11
126 Forgotten Wall
-
VS 4c 7
127 The Hulk E1 5c 21
128 Green Man VS 4c * 34
129 Not-so-Green f5 4
130 Not-so-Green SS
-
f6B 1
131 Evergreen Corner
-
S 4b 13
132 Evergreen Wall f5 4
  Bobby Dazzler
134 Primitive Crack S 4a * 93
135 Primate f6A+ 2
136 Dingly Dell f5+ * 18
137 Bobby Dazzler f5+ ** 15
138 Autowind f6A+ * 10
139 Twinkle Toes f6C * 1
140 Robbers Dog f5+ * 20
141 Robbers Dog Arete
-
f6A+ 4
142 Piano S 4c ** 19
143 Fluted Crack S 4b * 13
144 Penny Whistle E2 5c * 2
145 The Undercling Traverse f6B 24
146 Macgregor
-
f7A+ 5
  High T
148 The Entertainer E3 5c ** 9
149 Feanor E6 6b * 2
150 Upper Crust E5 6b *** 1
151 High Society E6 6b **  
152 Tom's First Problem f7A+ 1
153 Tom's Second Problem
-
f6A+ 3
154 High T E3 5c *** 12
155 The Crack f6C 13
  The Crucifix
157 Crucifix Traverse f6A *** 77
158 The Road to Nowhere f5+ 65
159 The Crucifix HVS 5a *** 33
160 Crucifixion E3 5c * 1
161 The Prow E9 7a ***  
162 Hourglass Chimney S 4b 1
163 The Spanish Tickler f7C+ ***  
164 The Gauntlet Traverse f7A ** 3
165 The Gauntlet (full route)
-
E1 5b *** 35
166 The Gauntlet E1 5b *** 32
167 The Iron Fist (full route)
-
E1 5c 3
168 The Iron Fist E1 5c 3
169 Plastic Novelties
-
f5+ 1
  The Arch
171 Stealth f7B 4
172 The Sickle f7A 16
173 Flying Scotsman f7A * 43
174 Arch Traverse f7A ** 12
175 Arch Traverse Eliminate f7A+ 2
176 Arch Rival
-
f7B 13

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