Climbs 15
Rocktype Limestone

Crag features

This is a small climbing venue, consisting of a few easy tidal routes scattered around the west side of Heatherslade bay and the non-tidal Heatherslade Buttress above the east side of the bay. The rock at sea level is good, and Heatherslade is a well known beach for family picnics. The climbing may provide an hour or so of entertainment for family climbers, beginners, or those wanting to finish the day with some pleasant soloing.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust Car Park at Southgate (see Foxhole Cove for details). For the crags at sea level, follow the path straight down from car park, to meet a path running westward above high tide level. Follow this path, dropping down just before the sandy conglomerate corner at the back west end of the beach. A prominent narrow zawn lies below this conglomerate corner. Headland Slabs are the two-tiered grey white slabs to the west of the zawn. Little Corner is slightly further on to the west and Great Corner 75m west again. Note that 100m on from Great Corner is Grey Slab, which gives routes of grades more in keeping with the Heatherslade area. For convenience, however, it is described under the Fox Hole Cove section.

For Heatherslade Buttress, take the second gully eastwards from the NT car park at Southgate. The crag forms the east wall of the gully, and is obvious from the cliff top path.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 West Rib
-
M 3
2 Square Cut
-
D 5
3 Direct
-
S 5
4 Central Corner Crack
-
M 5
5 Black Slab
-
HVD 3
6 Direct
-
D 5
7 East Corner
-
M 3
8 Route One
-
VD 5
9 Route Two
-
HD 4
10 Route Three
-
D 5
11 Block
-
HS 4b 3
12 Petty Larceny
-
S 2
13 gbh
-
HVS 4c 4
14 Felony
-
HVS 5a 3
15 Indecent Exposure VS ** 2

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