Climbs 600
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 100m a.s.l

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Bouldering amongst the bluebells. © tomrainbow

Crag features

A huge area comprising of five main sectors - Shaptor Rock, Lower Shaptor, Rock Copse, Bearacleave and Stonelands Waste. Classic problems of all grades but be prepared to invest a little time in 'getting orientated'.

 

Approach notes

Keep a low profile and treat with respect - this is a beautiful, ancient and (mainly) litter free wood. Please park considerately, brush off chalk and remove all finger tape (and other litter). Land owned by Woodland Trust and National Trust.

Restricted Access

Bovey Woods covers an area owned by several landowners, including the National Trust and Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at Bearacleave and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulder, but also some other issues. Please keep the following points in mind when visiting the area to avoid the situation deteriorating:  

  • Try to keep cleaning/de-vegging to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to you as a climber, but the landowner and other users may not agree. Clean holds individually rather than stripping entire boulders of vegetation.

  • Brush off excess chalk and tick marks before you move on to the next problem. Chalk can be really noticeable to non-climbers and detract from their experiance of an unspoilt environment, so remove as much as possible before leaving a problem.

  • Avoid using this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Guidebooks

I've had Dan's permission to publish his amazing map. Seriously impressive work. These are the co-ordinates Dan collected loaded into google maps: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EEWzjPBVLVynr5LZYFNfNndYV-hcP8DS&usp=sharing From there you can export to KMZ/KML and load into any smartphone maps app for when you're in the woods.
apwebber - 03/May/18
How come so many problems here have at least 1 star?
apwebber - 04/Apr/18
Hey, I've put together a pretty accurate map for Bovey woods, and please message me if you want a copy. It's basically the coordinates (and names) for the boulders, which are used with a smartphone app to find your way! Dan
Dan 85 - 16/Apr/15
The wiki site has changed its address to: http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/ Directions and parking details have been added.
tomrainbow - 12/Jan/14
Is there a rough map available anywhere? The only one I can find are the sketches on shaptor.wetpaint.com, which are brilliant, if you know where you are/where the rocks are anyway. The sketches dont seem to match up with OS maps?
tomwheeler - 23/May/11
Named problems constitute about a third of the climbed problems in the Woods. For more detailed info, topos, video footage, comment etc visit http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/
tomrainbow - 15/Jan/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Shaptor Rock
2 Enterprising V4 6b ** 2
3 Pink Moon V3 6a ** 51
4 Wasa Dyno V5 6b ** 16
5 Slotted Wall V7 6b/c *** 40
6 Slotted Wall LH V8+ 6c ***  
7 Slotted Wall Traverse V8+ 6c ***  
8 Mr Solo V4 6b * 2
9 Yahoo-ru V6 6b/c ** 4
10 William Shaptor V8+ 6c *** 3
11 Bones V4 6a/b ** 4
12 The Long Wall Traverse V3 6a ** 12
13 Spiderland V7 6b *** 13
14 ...For Dinner V3 6a ** 18
15 Redips V4 ** 5
16 Tweez V3 6a 7
17 Good Morning Captain V3 6a * 3
18 Buena Vista V9 6c **  
19 Phil's Arete V3 6a * 5
20 Genesis V4 6b ** 8
21 The Soft Machine V4 6a/b * 5
22 Badlands V3 1
23 Springsteen V3 6a * 7
24 Fern Britain V2 6a * 9
25 Trees Are This Cool V2 6a * 3
26 Space Oddity V3 6a/b ** 6
27 Sound & Vision V2 5c * 7
28 Heroes V5 6a/b ** 4
29 Low V6 6b/c ** 4
30 Tin Machine V4 6b 5
31 Infinite Monkey V3 6a * 2
32 South America Flake V2 5c * 2
33 Calcaneum Crisis V7 6c *** 2
34 Flettner 2000 V4 6b **  
35 Outrageous Grace V5 6b ** 5
36 Grumpy Face V4 6a/b * 4
37 The Meadowlands V3 6a ** 8
38 Sunnyside Traverse V4 6b * 6
39 The Tilted Heart V5 6b *** 5
40 Jilted Tart V4 6a/b ** 6
41 The Ventricle V4 6b * 5
42 Tiger Balm V4 6b *** 5
43 Tiger in the Woods V4 6b ** 3
  Lower Shaptor
45 Bad Pitt V3 ** 9
46 Cockadoodledoo V2 ** 2
47 Bosi Bulge V3 6a/b * 7
48 The Walnut V3 * 9
49 Walnut Traverse V7 6b/c ** 2
50 Tom Was 'Ere V2 6a * 3
51 The Snatch V2 6a/b * 1
52 Go Ape V6 6a/b *** 1
53 Sara V4 5c 3
54 Third Time Lucky V4 6b * 2
55 Worse Pit V2 5c * 1
56 Yoda V4 6b ** 3
57 Gallic Baldman V3 6a ** 3
58 Archanglette V0 5b * 4
59 The Lizard V3 6a * 3
60 Daniel V3 6a ** 8
61 Kirstine V5 6b *** 5
62 The Big Chill V5 6b ** 2
63 The Woodsman V6 6c *** 8
64 Cavey Davy V9 6c/7a **  
65 Kaputt V4 6a/b ** 1
66 Landline V4 6b * 4
67 Skyline V6 6a/b *** 2
68 Alpaca Man V5 6b * 3
69 Anty Matter V6 ** 2
70 Matter V3 6a/b * 4
71 On The Blob V0 5a * 3
72 Mr Unblobby V5 6b * 1
73 Green Giant V3 6a 2
74 The Macerator V3 ** 1
75 The Left Hand Sloper V4 ** 2
76 Bulging Wall V8 * 1
77 Club Foot V3 6a * 1
78 Barnestormer V3 6a ** 8
79 The Norman Conquest V3 6a/b * 3
80 Gerty Gertbuckets V6 6b ** 2
81 Muse V4 6b ** 3
82 Jabba The Hut V4 6a/b ** 2
83 Moonshine V5 6b/c ** 5
84 Diamond Geezer V4 6a * 1
85 Cubic Bosom V6 6b *** 3
86 Cubic Boron V3 6a *** 6
87 Boron Arete V7 6c ***  
88 Calmer V5 6b ** 2
89 Calmer Sutra V6 6b ** 2
90 Gully Catch V4 6b ** 3
91 Nostromo V4 6b ** 4
92 Kurtz V6 6b/c ** 4
93 Chesney Hawkes V3 6a **  
94 The Jungle Book V8+ *** 4
95 Balu V4 6a *** 8
96 Mowgli V2 * 2
97 Jungle Jim V0 4
98 Lord Jim V2 5c ** 4
99 The Poacher V3 6a * 8
100 The Poacher Sit Start V5 6b ** 6
101 Over Easy V4 6b * 3
102 Back To The Egg V3 * 4
103 Kidney Stone Monkey V5 6b ** 9
104 Organ Donor V6 6b/c *** 7
105 Renal Arete V2 5c/6a * 17
106 Dialysis V6 6a/b * 4
107 Power Grunt V5 6b/c 3
108 Grinderman V4 6a/b * 16
109 The Bad Seed V5 6b ** 6
110 Red Right Hand V6 6b/c ** 2
111 Snake Byte V4 6b ** 13
112 Soon To Be Taken Away V3 6a ** 3
113 Plymouth 6b V5 6b/c * 1
114 Caldwell's Finger V3 * 5
115 Astroboy V3 6a ** 19
116 Midnight Thunder V3 6a *** 14
117 Slackline V6 6b *** 6
118 Dawn Wally V0 7
119 Dying Light V3 6a * 1
120 Children of the Underworld V0+ 2
121 Shimmer Me Timbers V4 6b *  
122 Heat Haze V5 6b ** 1
123 Shimmer V3 6a *** 21
124 Shimmer LH V3 ** 3
125 Glimmer V1 3
126 Parabolica V4 6b 1
127 Taumaranui V5 6b/c ** 6
128 Finger Ripping Good V7 6b/c ** 6
129 Taumaranui/Finger Ripping Good Link V8 6c ***  
130 Back of Beyond V4 6a/b ** 2
131 Tripwire V3 6a * 2
132 Locals one, Bristol nil * V2 5c * 1
  Stonelands
134 Rollercoaster f5 11
135 Red Dot Pull V0 5b 38
136 Crack Eliminate V3 6a 2
137 Breadcrumb Trail V4 6a/b *** 41
138 Breadcrumb Trail Assis V6 6b *** 7
139 The Golden Ratio V0 4c ** 45
140 Red Dot Slab V0 4c 31
141 Red Dot Traverse V1 5b 12
142 Red Dot Arete V5 6b/c * 12
143 Drought Scoop V1 5b/c * 16
144 The Ramp Line V0 5b 16
145 Cuddles V2 2
146 Ellen's Dyno V4 6b ** 2
147 Show It The Crow V6 6b ** 4
148 Right Slapper V4 6b 4
149 Right Sitter V1 9
150 The Pot Bellied Pig V3 6a * 4
151 Smokey Bacon V4 6b * 3
152 Okja V3 6a * 1
153 Mr Avocado V3 6a ** 12
154 Road To Nowhere V5 6b *** 1
155 The Big Split V3 6a ** 17
156 Green Dot Traverse V8 6b/c *** 13
157 Pepe V6 6b/c ** 6
158 Green Dot Slap V5 6b ** 2
159 Mantle Asylum V3 6a ** 13
160 The Cuckoo's Nest f5+ ** 9
Climb name Grade
161 McMurphy f6A 5
162 Dot Green Traverse V8+ *** 2
163 Pink Turns White V1 9
164 Beyond The Threshold V4 6b ** 15
165 Eiffel Tower High V1 * 10
166 The Cardioid V3 6a 4
167 Klimt Arete V3 6a * 3
168 Rotational Symmetry V1 5b * 4
169 Bummed V2 5c * 6
170 Rainbow Gift V0 5a ** 6
171 The Knave V6 ** 10
172 The Navel V9 7a *** 1
173 The Guest List V2 5c ** 6
174 Chasm Arete f4+ 6
175 Simon's Layaway V2 5c * 5
176 Simon's Wall V2 5c * 7
177 Jason's Problem V4 6b * 5
178 Terror Twilight V5 6b *** 8
179 Terror Twilight Deluxe V7 *** 3
180 Skinny Graft V3 6a * 3
181 Trench Snatch V3 6a * 1
182 Fence Off V4 6b/c *  
183 Tank Boulder Main Crack V1 4
184 Kevlar Man V5 6b ** 1
185 Barking Madly V4 6b * 6
186 The Tank Traverse V4 6b * 3
187 Back to Business V3 6a * 5
188 George VB  
189 Ringo V0  
190 John V1  
191 Paul V2  
192 The Whale LHS V0- 4c 6
193 The Whale Middle V1 5c/6a 4
194 The Whale RHS V0 5b 6
195 Strike Out V0 5a 1
196 Go The Extra Mile f6A+ * 1
197 Going The Whole Way V6 1
198 Bull Durham V2 6a * 1
199 Home Run V1 5c * 2
200 The First Base V0 4c 3
201 One Yard In, One Yard Up V1 5c 3
202 The Whole Nine Yards V6 ** 9
203 Gulf Stream V1 * 2
204 Jet Stream V3 6a/b ** 3
205 Airstream V7 6c *** 6
206 Astral Scout V3 6a * 7
207 The Space Bomb V3 5c ** 2
208 Yuri Gargarin V5 6a/b *** 9
  Rock Copse
210 The Bulge f5 * 6
211 Spore Wars V4 * 4
212 My Lovely Horse V0 * 6
213 The Trans-Rebounder V2 6a * 5
214 Moss Mantle f4+ 4
215 Excavation V2 5c * 3
216 The Footledge V0 4c 5
217 Field Slab Sitter f6A+ 4
218 Highball Wall V3 6a ** 2
219 Tago Mago V4 6a/b ** 7
220 JJM V4 6b ** 6
221 Ege Bamyasi V4 6a/b ** 8
222 Blocky Vein Traverse V0+ * 3
223 Cad's Sitter V6 6c * 4
224 Suffering Superpants V3 6a/b ** 3
225 Uphill Sloggi V6 6c * 1
226 Ants In My Pants V7 6c * 1
227 Peni Arete V6 6c * 1
228 The Predator Monster V3 6a * 1
229 The Honey Monster f5 3
230 The Metolious Ball f4+ 4
231 Mightier Than The Sword f5 * 4
232 The Boy With Perpetual Nervousness V5 6b *** 2
233 Low Ball Roof V0 2
234 Low Balls Arete V1 5b * 3
235 Codswallop Arete V1 2
236 Codswallop Traverse V0 2
237 The Squeeze Traverse V3 6a * 7
238 Goodfellas V3 6a * 11
239 Rear of the Year V3 ** 2
240 Buttcheek Surfer V1 5b * 7
241 Buttock Traverse V2 5c ** 7
242 Buttock Traverse Super Extension V2 2
243 Phat Bottomed Gurls V1 * 1
244 Arse! V1 * 2
245 Noddy V2 ** 2
246 Big Rears V1 * 2
247 Wot A Bummer V3+ 6a/b 1
248 TGJ V3 5c *** 6
249 MPM V5 6a/b ** 3
250 Silk Purse Traverse V5 6b ** 6
251 Bacon Buttie V1  
252 The Sow's Ear V4 6a/b ** 9
253 The Silken Sow V6 6b ** 7
254 Breach Birth V2 5c * 2
255 Undercover V5 6b *** 4
256 Ronjohn's Roof V3 6a ** 2
257 Across The Great Divide V6 6b **  
258 Tears of Rage V4 6b * 1
259 Rage Against The Dying Of The Light V5 6b **  
260 Punk Rock Girl V4 6a/b ** 3
261 Hot and Bothered V4 6a/b * 1
262 Morph V3 6a * 2
263 Mindy V5 6b ** 4
264 Middle Terrace Slab V1 5c * 4
265 Underdog V6 6c ** 8
266 Sniffer Dog V7 6c **  
267 Lazy Colon V8+ ** 1
268 Dog Sniffer V8 6c **  
269 Gnasher V6 6b/c ** 7
270 Dog Leg V4 6b * 3
271 Ant Slab V0 5b **  
272 Jack Russell V2 6a * 2
273 The Terrier V2 6a ** 2
274 Dog Dick Arete V4 6a/b *** 16
275 Fissure de Cul de Chien V3 5c * 1
276 Green Fingers V4 6a * 4
277 Avant Gardener V4 6b ** 8
278 Colonic Irrigation V4 6a ** 5
279 Cream T-Crack V5 6a/b ** 4
280 Orson's Colonic Irritation V4 6a * 3
281 Jazz V2 6a ** 1
282 Jase V4 6b * 2
283 Jez V1 5b/c 5
284 Problem 11 * V3 1
  Bearacleave
286 BBB Traverse V5 6a/b ** 4
287 The BBB V4 6a *** 13
288 BBBD V6 6b/c *** 5
289 The Beast of Bearacleave V5 6b *** 5
290 The Lonesome Crowded West V6 6b/c ** 1
291 Halcyon Traverse V4 6a/b * 4
292 The Curly Bracket V4 6b ** 6
293 Oxford Comma V0 4
294 Exclamation, Mark! V3 6b * 1
295 Bad Grammar V2 6a 5
296 Yellow Submarine V4 6b * 9
297 Red October V7 6c *** 4
298 Spooky Thrutch V3 5c 4
299 Spooky Tree Traverse V5 6b ** 7
300 Squirrel Slab V4 6a * 4
301 Nevermind the Buzzards V4 6b ** 5
302 Giza V3 6a 3
303 Scorebag V4 * 17
304 Bawbag V6 6b/c ** 1
305 Bawbag Left Hand V5 6b *  
306 Bend it Like Bekham V4 5c/6a *** 63
307 Beckham part 1 V1 5a * 49
308 Posh Spice V0 5b 44
309 The Runnel V3 5c/6a 18
310 Constriction Slab f6A * 8
311 Beckham Part 2 V3 ** 38
312 Mistral V4 6b ** 4
313 Sirocco V4 6b/c ** 11
314 Mt Heart Attack V3 6a/b ** 4
315 Drum's Not Dead V0 3
316 Sexy Jesus V3 ** 4
317 Holy Moses V4 3
318 The Septic Tank Traverse V3 * 3
319 Goalmouth Top Prow V1 9
320 Goalmouth Top Wall V0 9
Climb name Grade
321 Fly, Agaric? V3+ * 1
322 Mingus Fungus (aka Steve's Traverse) V5 6b ** 4
323 The Superior Species V6 6b ** 4
324 Fungus The Bogeyman V5 6b ** 7
325 We Are The Champignons V7 *** 3
326 Champignon The Wonder Horse V3 6b * 5
327 Shitaki V3+ ** 10
328 Potty Mouth V1 9
329 Dog Days and Winter Haze V5 6b ** 4
330 The Enchanterelle V2 6a/b * 2
331 Hang Ten (In The Mushroom) V3 6a * 2
332 The Xmas Blues V3 6a/b * 4
333 Get Down Shep V0 * 5
334 Percy Thrower V3 * 9
335 Spiky Damp V2 5c 5
336 Janet Ellis V4 ** 3
337 Brucie's Bonus R V3+ 1
338 Brucie's Bonus L V2 5c/6a * 1
339 The Blair Witch Project V4 6b/c * 4
340 American Squeeze Job V8 **  
341 Cubelet Groove V0 5a/b 10
342 Arse Trump V4 6a/b ** 5
343 Smile More V3 * 18
344 Waller Slab V0 5b * 37
345 Waller Eliminate V2 6a * 6
346 Mornington Crescent V3 6a *** 54
347 The Northern Line V2 5c * 37
348 Bovey Boys V3 6a ** 47
349 Bovey Straight V5 6b/c ** 5
350 Swansong V5 ** 14
351 Black Swansong V7 6b/c *** 6
352 Walker's Last Sit V10 7a ** 1
353 Yank Sweat V4 * 3
354 Waller Groove V0 4c 4
355 South Face Traverse V2 6a * 11
356 South Face Sitter V1 7
357 Stirling Moose V0 5a 4
358 Sterling Moss V0 * 15
359 Flake Delight V0 5a * 6
360 Le Fin de la Fin V3 6a/b ** 13
361 The (S)weed V2 5c * 3
362 Towertubbies V0 * 2
363 Waller Tower V2 6a 3
364 The Towering Infernal V3 * 2
365 The Washbasin V3 6a/b ** 10
366 Do The Pachacuti V1 5c * 9
367 Roger Melly V2 6a * 29
368 TV Eye V2 5c ** 33
369 Ante's Arete V6 6b ** 9
370 Little Arithmetics V4 6a/b ** 20
371 Trevor McDonald V5 6b ** 16
372 Bubbles from Amsterdam V6 6b *** 7
373 Kazoom V3 * 8
374 The Blimp V2 5c 25
375 Flying Spaghetti Monster V5 6b/c ** 16
376 Mr Rainbow V8+ *** 2
377 Supergirl V6 * 5
378 Over The Rainbow V10 7a ***  
379 The Leprechaun V8+ ***  
380 Caribbean Queen V2 2
381 De Do Do Dab V3 1
382 Moley Holey V4 6a/b * 2
383 The Leaf Pit V2 5c * 2
384 Bonzai V2 5c 2
385 The Pica-Pau V3 6a * 2
386 Dinky Right Hand f6B 2
387 Dinky Toys V4 6b ** 4
388 Hot Wheels V7 ** 1
389 Tonka Traverse V4 6b ** 7
390 The Black Mirror V3+ ** 3
391 Snatchin' The Mirror V3 6a * 2
392 Bandersnatch V4 * 4
393 Mirror, Snatch, Manoeuvre V4+ ** 3
394 Hubris V6 *** 2
395 Big 'Ed V1 5c 4
396 Panjandrum V3 6a * 4
397 Conceit V4+ * 3
398 Super Silly Us V4 * 2
399 Name for a Laugh V2 5c * 3
400 The Blobby Band V3 6a/b ** 4
401 The Diamond Of Vengeance V4 * 2
402 The Emerald Of Justice V5 6b ** 2
403 The Serpent V4 6b ** 9
404 Steve's Trouser Snake V3 6a ** 2
405 Ape Index Arete V5 6b/c * 3
406 Spirit of Eden V5 ** 1
407 The Metolious Mantle V0 5b 2
408 The Colour Of Spring V2 5c * 2
409 Jalfrezi V2 1
410 Jalfrezi (High Spice, Low Feet Variant) V4+ ** 1
411 Korma V3 6a * 4
412 Rogan Josh V4 6b * 2
413 Belo Horizonte V5+ ** 2
414 Uberlandia V3 6b * 2
415 Eyelid Traverse V4 ** 3
416 Understanding V3 ** 9
417 Lateral Thinking V4 6b ** 4
418 The Side Issue V3 * 1
419 Devon Sent V10 6c *** 11
420 Abbeydale Road f7B ** 1
421 Nether Edge V7 6c *** 15
422 B Movie V3 6b 14
423 The Bear Hunt V7 6c ** 1
424 Full Length Feature V3 6a ** 45
425 The Modern Dance V8 ** 3
426 Chic V3 * 3
427 Beara Boogie V4 6a/b ** 3
428 Love Bugs V1 *** 8
429 Owner of a Lonely Heart f4 * 7
430 Corporal Blobheart V3 ** 3
431 Captain Blobheart V5 ** 2
432 99 V3 6a * 2
433 Cornetto V5 6a/b ** 2
434 The Yak's Nose V4 6b ** 5
435 Le Cul De Yak (Sans Sloper) V5 ** 2
436 Le Cul De Yak V1 5c * 3
437 Le Merde de Cul de Yak V4 * 3
438 Bearaburger Traverse V5 ** 2
439 Steve's Meaty Middle (L) V4+ 6b **  
440 Steve's Meaty Middle (R) V3 6a/b * 1
441 The Side Salad V3 6a/b * 1
442 Da Macdaddy V6 **  
443 Tesco Horseburger V3 6a * 1
444 The MuckBovey Burger V2 5c * 3
445 Careless Pork V4 6b * 2
446 Eggs and Gammon V3 6a * 8
447 Poor Rhiannon V6 6b/c *** 8
448 Ken's Bad Wind V3+ 6b ** 3
449 Mastic Medic LH V3 6a * 4
450 Mastic Medic RH V4 6b * 3
451 The Green Travesty V5 6b ** 4
452 The Unbearable Likelihood of Being Squished V2 5c * 3
453 Spooky Link V3 1
  Wilderness and Below the Path
455 Tips, Toes and Ankle Woes V5 ** 1
456 Gnarly Dude V6 6b * 1
457 Sweet Dude V1 5b ** 8
458 Punter's Traverse V1 5b * 1
459 Steep Dude Traverse V5 6b ** 4
460 Dudely Moore V4 6b * 4
461 Hey Dude! V2 5c ** 5
462 Horny Ridge V3 6a/b * 8
463 Horny Wall V4 6b ** 3
464 Matterhorn Crack V2 * 2
465 Opposite Prow V2 2
466 Butter Bun V4 * 4
467 Hovis V1 * 4
468 Wilderness Arete V1 * 4
469 The Pig Nest V3 ** 5
470 Liane V5 6b **  
471 Blobby Flakes
-
V1 2
472 The Wilderness Traverse V4 6b ** 2
473 The Pipe Arete V5 6b/c ** 2
474 Smokin' V5 6b ** 3
475 The Dharma Initiative V3 6a/b * 2
476 Jakob's Ladder V6 6b *** 1
477 The Others V6 6b/c ** 1
478 The Lost Boys V6 6b **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomrainbow