Climbs 600
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 100m a.s.l

If this was in the Peak it would be one of the most sought after lines around, but it isn't... © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

Crag features

A huge area comprising of five main sectors - Shaptor Rock, Lower Shaptor, Rock Copse, Bearacleave and Stonelands Waste. Classic problems of all grades but be prepared to invest a little time in 'getting orientated'.

 

Approach notes

Keep a low profile and treat with respect - this is a beautiful, ancient and (mainly) litter free wood. Please park considerately, brush off chalk and remove all finger tape (and other litter). Land owned by Woodland Trust and National Trust.

Access Advice

Bovey Woods covers an area owned by several landowners, including the National Trust and Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at Bearacleave and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulder, but also some other issues. Please keep the following points in mind when visiting the area to avoid the situation deteriorating:  

  • Try to keep cleaning/de-vegging to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to you as a climber, but the landowner and other users may not agree. Clean holds individually rather than stripping entire boulders of vegetation.

  • Brush off excess chalk and tick marks before you move on to the next problem. Chalk can be really noticeable to non-climbers and detract from their experiance of an unspoilt environment, so remove as much as possible before leaving a problem.

  • Avoid using this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Guidebooks

Hey, I've put together a pretty accurate map for Bovey woods, and please message me if you want a copy. It's basically the coordinates (and names) for the boulders, which are used with a smartphone app to find your way! Dan
Dan 85 - 16/Apr/15
The wiki site has changed its address to: http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/ Directions and parking details have been added.
tomrainbow - 12/Jan/14
Is there a rough map available anywhere? The only one I can find are the sketches on shaptor.wetpaint.com, which are brilliant, if you know where you are/where the rocks are anyway. The sketches dont seem to match up with OS maps?
tomwheeler - 23/May/11
Named problems constitute about a third of the climbed problems in the Woods. For more detailed info, topos, video footage, comment etc visit http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/
tomrainbow - 15/Jan/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Shaptor Rock
2 Enterprising V4 6b ** 2
3 Pink Moon V3 6a ** 38
4 Wasa Dyno V5 6b ** 11
5 Slotted Wall V7 6b/c *** 40
6 Slotted Wall LH V8+ 6c ***  
7 Slotted Wall Traverse V8+ 6c ***  
8 Mr Solo V4 6b * 1
9 Yahoo-ru V6 6b/c ** 3
10 William Shaptor V8+ 6c *** 3
11 Bones V4 6a/b ** 3
12 The Long Wall Traverse V3 6a ** 8
13 Spiderland V7 6b *** 9
14 ...For Dinner V3 6a ** 12
15 Tweez V3 6a 5
16 Good Morning Captain V3 6a * 2
17 Buena Vista V9 6c **  
18 Phil's Arete V3 6a * 5
19 Genesis V4 6b ** 6
20 The Soft Machine V4 6a/b * 5
21 Badlands V3 1
22 Springsteen V3 6a * 7
23 Fern Britain V2 6a * 9
24 Trees Are This Cool V2 6a * 3
25 Space Oddity V3 6a/b ** 5
26 Sound & Vision V2 5c * 6
27 Heroes V5 6a/b ** 4
28 Low V6 6b/c ** 4
29 Tin Machine V4 6b 5
30 Infinite Monkey V3 6a * 2
31 South America Flake V2 5c * 2
32 Calcaneum Crisis V7 6c *** 1
33 Flettner 2000 V4 6b **  
34 Outrageous Grace V5 6b ** 3
35 Grumpy Face V4 6a/b * 2
36 The Meadowlands V3 6a ** 7
37 Sunnyside Traverse V4 6b * 6
38 The Tilted Heart V5 6b *** 5
39 Jilted Tart V4 6a/b ** 6
40 The Ventricle V4 6b * 5
41 Tiger Balm V4 6b *** 5
42 Tiger in the Woods V4 6b ** 3
  Lower Shaptor
44 Bad Pitt V3 6a * 9
45 Cockadoodledoo V2 5c 2
46 Bosi Bulge V3 6a/b * 7
47 The Walnut V3 6a/b * 7
48 Walnut Traverse V7 6b/c **  
49 Tom Was 'Ere V2 6a * 3
50 The Snatch V2 6a/b * 1
51 Go Ape V6 6a/b *** 1
52 Sara V4 5c 1
53 Third Time Lucky V4 6b * 2
54 Worse Pit V2 5c * 1
55 Yoda V4 6b ** 3
56 Gallic Baldman V3 6a ** 3
57 Archanglette V0 5b * 4
58 The Lizard V3 6a * 3
59 Daniel V3 6a ** 7
60 Kirstine V5 6b *** 5
61 The Big Chill V5 6b ** 2
62 The Woodsman V6 6c *** 5
63 Cavey Davy V9 6c/7a **  
64 Kaputt V4 6a/b ** 1
65 Landline V4 6b * 3
66 Skyline V6 6a/b *** 1
67 Alpaca Man V5 6b * 3
68 Anty Matter V6 ** 2
69 Matter V3 6a/b * 4
70 On The Blob V0 5a * 3
71 Mr Unblobby V5 6b * 1
72 Green Giant V3 6a 2
73 The Macerator V3 ** 1
74 The Left Hand Sloper V4 ** 1
75 Bulging Wall V8 * 1
76 Club Foot V3 6a * 1
77 Barnestormer V3 6a ** 8
78 The Norman Conquest V3 6a/b * 3
79 Gerty Gertbuckets V6 6b ** 2
80 Muse V4 6b ** 3
81 Jabba The Hut V4 6a/b ** 2
82 Moonshine V5 6b/c ** 5
83 Diamond Geezer V4 6a * 1
84 Cubic Bosom V6 6b *** 3
85 Cubic Boron V3 6a *** 4
86 Boron Arete V7 6c ***  
87 Calmer V5 6b ** 2
88 Calmer Sutra V6 6b ** 2
89 Gully Catch V4 6b ** 2
90 Nostromo V4 6b ** 4
91 Kurtz V6 6b/c ** 3
92 Chesney Hawkes V3 6a **  
93 The Jungle Book V8+ *** 2
94 Balu V4 6a *** 4
95 Lord Jim V2 5c ** 1
96 The Poacher V3 6a * 8
97 The Poacher Sit Start V5 6b ** 5
98 Over Easy V4 6b * 3
99 Back To The Egg V3 * 3
100 Kidney Stone Monkey V5 6b ** 9
101 Organ Donor V6 6b/c *** 3
102 Renal Arete V2 5c/6a * 14
103 Dialysis V6 6a/b * 4
104 Power Grunt V5 6b/c 3
105 Grinderman V4 6a/b * 13
106 The Bad Seed V5 6b ** 5
107 Red Right Hand V6 6b/c ** 2
108 Snake Byte V4 6b ** 10
109 Soon To Be Taken Away V3 6a ** 2
110 Plymouth 6b V5 6b/c * 1
111 Astroboy V3 6a ** 11
112 Midnight Thunder V3 6a *** 10
113 Slackline V6 6b *** 7
114 Dying Light V3 6a * 1
115 Children of the Underworld V0+ 2
116 Shimmer V3 6a *** 10
117 Heat Haze V5 6b ** 1
118 Shimmer Me Timbers V4 6b *  
119 Parabolica V4 6b 1
120 Taumaranui V5 6b/c ** 6
121 Finger Ripping Good V7 6b/c ** 6
122 Taumaranui/Finger Ripping Good Link V8 6c ***  
123 Back of Beyond V4 6a/b ** 2
124 Tripwire V3 6a * 2
  Stonelands
126 Rollercoaster f5 5
127 Red Dot Pull V0 5b 16
128 Crack Eliminate V3 6a  
129 Breadcrumb Trail V4 6a/b *** 25
130 Breadcrumb Trail Assis V6 6b ***  
131 The Golden Ratio V0 4c ** 20
132 Red Dot Slab V0 4c 15
133 Red Dot Traverse V1 5b 9
134 Red Dot Arete V5 6b/c * 8
135 Drought Scoop V1 5b/c * 9
136 The Ramp Line V0 5b 10
137 Orla's Problem V2 2
138 Ellen's Dyno V4 6b ** 2
139 Show It The Crow V6 6b ** 4
140 Right Slapper V4 6b 2
141 Right Sitter V1 4
142 The Pot Bellied Pig V3 6a * 1
143 Smokey Bacon V4 6b * 1
144 Mr Avocado V3 6a ** 7
145 Road To Nowhere V5 6b *** 1
146 The Big Split V3 6a ** 16
147 Green Dot Traverse V8 6b/c *** 6
148 Pepe V6 6b/c ** 3
149 Green Dot Slap V5 6b **  
150 Mantle Asylum V3 6a ** 8
151 The Cuckoo's Nest f5+ ** 6
152 McMurphy f6A 3
153 Dot Green Traverse V8+ ***  
154 Pink Turns White V1 8
155 Beyond The Threshold V4 6b ** 15
156 Eiffel Tower High V1 * 8
157 The Cardioid V3 6a 4
158 Klimt Arete V3 6a * 3
159 Rotational Symmetry V1 5b * 4
160 Bummed V2 5c * 6
161 Rainbow Gift V0 5a ** 6
162 The Knave V6 ** 5
163 The Navel V9 7a ***  
164 The Guest List V2 5c ** 6
165 Chasm Arete f4+ 3
166 Simon's Layaway V2 5c * 3
167 Simon's Wall V2 5c * 5
168 Jason's Problem V4 6b * 4
169 Terror Twilight V5 6b *** 7
170 Terror Twilight Deluxe V7 6b/c *** 2
171 Skinny Graft V3 6a * 2
172 Trench Snatch V3 6a * 1
173 Fence Off V4 6b/c *  
174 Tank Boulder Main Crack V1 3
175 Kevlar Man V5 6b ** 1
176 Barking Madly V4 6b * 5
177 The Tank Traverse V4 6b * 3
178 Back to Business V3 6a * 5
179 George VB  
180 Ringo V0  
181 John V1  
182 Paul V2  
183 The Whale LHS V0- 4c 6
184 The Whale Middle V1 5c/6a 4
185 The Whale RHS V0 5b 6
186 Home Run V1 5c * 2
187 The First Base V0 4c 2
188 One Yard In, One Yard Up V1 5c 2
189 The Whole Nine Yards V5 6b ** 8
190 Jet Stream V3 6a/b ** 3
191 Airstream V7 6c *** 4
192 Astral Scout V3 6a * 6
193 The Space Bomb V3 5c ** 3
194 Yuri Gargarin V5 6a/b *** 11
  Rock Copse
196 The Bulge f5 * 5
197 Spore Wars V4 6a * 2
198 My Lovely Horse V0 * 4
199 The Trans-Rebounder V2 6a * 4
200 Moss Mantle f4+ 3
201 Excavation V2 5c * 3
202 The Footledge V0 4c 5
203 Field Slab Sitter f6A+ 4
204 Highball Wall V3 6a ** 1
205 Tago Mago V4 6a/b ** 6
206 JJM V4 6b ** 5
207 Ege Bamyasi V4 6a/b ** 7
208 Blocky Vein Traverse V0+ * 2
209 Cad's Sitter V6 6c * 3
210 Suffering Superpants V3 6a/b ** 2
211 Uphill Sloggi V6 6c * 1
212 Ants In My Pants V7 6c * 1
213 Peni Arete V6 6c * 1
214 The Predator Monster V3 6a * 1
215 The Honey Monster f5 2
216 The Metolious Ball f4+ 4
217 Mightier Than The Sword f5 * 4
218 The Boy With Perpetual Nervousness V5 6b *** 1
219 Low Ball Roof V0 2
220 Low Balls Arete V1 5b * 3
221 Codswallop Arete V1 2
222 Codswallop Traverse V0 2
223 The Squeeze Traverse V3 6a * 4
224 Goodfellas V3 6a * 7
225 Rear of the Year V3 5c ** 1
226 Buttcheek Surfer V1 5b * 6
227 Buttock Traverse V2 5c ** 6
228 Buttock Traverse Super Extension V2 2
229 TGJ V3 5c *** 5
230 MPM V5 6a/b ** 3
231 Silk Purse Traverse V5 6b ** 4
232 The Sow's Ear V4 6a/b ** 6
233 The Silken Sow V6 6b ** 4
234 Breach Birth V2 5c * 2
235 Undercover V5 6b *** 4
236 Ronjohn's Roof V3 6a ** 2
237 Tears of Rage V4 6b * 1
238 Punk Rock Girl V4 6a/b ** 3
239 Hot and Bothered V4 6a/b * 1
240 Morph V3 6a * 2
241 Mindy V5 6b ** 4
242 Middle Terrace Slab V1 5c * 2
243 Underdog V6 6c ** 6
244 Sniffer Dog V7 6c **  
245 Lazy Colon V8+ **  
246 Dog Sniffer V8 6c **  
247 Gnasher V6 6b/c ** 6
248 Dog Leg V4 6b * 3
249 Ant Slab V0 5b **  
250 Jack Russell V2 6a * 2
251 The Terrier V2 6a ** 2
252 Dog Dick Arete V4 6a/b *** 13
253 Fissure de Cul de Chien V3 5c * 1
254 Green Fingers V4 6a * 4
255 Avant Gardener V4 6b ** 8
256 Colonic Irrigation V4 6a ** 5
257 Cream T-Crack V5 6a/b ** 4
258 Orson's Colonic Irritation V4 6a * 3
259 Jazz V2 6a ** 1
260 Jase V4 6b * 2
261 Jez V1 5b/c 4
  Bearacleave
263 BBB Traverse V5 6a/b ** 1
264 The BBB V4 6a *** 6
265 BBBD V6 6b/c *** 1
266 The Beast of Bearacleave V5 6b *** 2
267 The Lonesome Crowded West V6 6b/c ** 1
268 Halcyon Traverse V4 6a/b * 4
269 The Curly Bracket V4 6b ** 5
270 Oxford Comma V0 4
271 Bad Grammar V2 6a 4
272 Yellow Submarine V4 6b * 8
273 Red October V7 6c *** 2
274 Spooky Thrutch V3 5c 3
275 Spooky Tree Traverse V5 6b ** 6
276 Squirrel Slab V4 6a * 4
277 Nevermind the Buzzards V4 6b ** 5
278 Giza V3 6a 3
279 Scorebag V4 * 15
280 Bawbag V6 6b/c ** 1
281 Bend it Like Bekham V4 5c/6a *** 39
282 Beckham part 1 V1 5a * 26
283 Posh Spice V0 5b 21
284 The Runnel V3 5c/6a 8
285 Constriction Slab f6A * 4
286 Beckham Part 2 V3 ** 19
287 Sirocco V4 6b/c ** 5
288 Mt Heart Attack V3 6a/b ** 4
289 Drum's Not Dead V0 4
290 Sexy Jesus V3 ** 3
291 Holy Moses V4 3
292 The Septic Tank Traverse V3 * 3
293 Goalmouth Top Prow V1 8
294 Goalmouth Top Wall V0 7
295 The Superior Species V6 6b ** 4
296 Fungus The Bogeyman V5 6b ** 6
297 We Are The Champignons V7 *** 3
298 Champignon The Wonder Horse V3 6b * 4
299 Shitaki V3 6a ** 7
300 Potty Mouth V1 7
301 Dog Days and Winter Haze V5 6b ** 3
302 The Xmas Blues V3 6a/b * 4
303 Get Down Shep V0 * 2
304 Percy Thrower V3 * 7
305 Spiky Damp V2 5c 5
306 Janet Ellis V4 ** 3
307 The Blair Witch Project V4 6b/c * 3
308 American Squeeze Job V7 6c **  
309 Cubelet Groove V0 5a/b 5
310 Arse Trump V4 6a/b ** 3
311 Smile More V3 * 13
312 Waller Slab V0 5b * 15
313 Mornington Crescent V3 6a *** 32
314 The Northern Line V2 5c * 13
315 Bovey Boys V3 6a ** 31
316 Bovey Straight V5 6b/c ** 2
317 Swansong V5 ** 9
318 Black Swansong V7 6b/c *** 3
319 Yank Sweat V4 * 3
320 South Face Traverse V2 6a * 7
321 South Face Sitter V1 2
322 Sterling Moss V0 * 2
323 Le Fin de la Fin V3 6a/b ** 11
324 Waller Tower V2 6a 2
325 The Towering Infernal V4 6a/b * 2
326 The Washbasin V3 6a/b ** 9
327 Do The Pachacuti V1 5c * 9
328 Roger Melly V2 6a * 13
329 TV Eye V2 5c ** 19
330 Ante's Arete V6 6b **  
331 Little Arithmetics V4 6a/b ** 8
332 Trevor McDonald V5 6b ** 4
333 Bubbles from Amsterdam V6 6b *** 5
334 Kazoom V3 * 7
335 The Blimp V2 5c 15
336 Flying Spaghetti Monster V5 6b/c ** 8
337 Mr Rainbow V8 ***  
338 Supergirl V6 6c * 2
339 Over The Rainbow V10 7a ***  
340 The Leprechaun V8+ ***  
341 The Leaf Pit V2 5c * 1
342 Dinky Toys V4 6b ** 3
343 Tonka Traverse V4 6b ** 5
344 Bandersnatch V4 * 1
345 Name for a Laugh V2 5c * 3
346 The Blobby Band V3 6a/b ** 4
347 The Diamond Of Vengeance V4 * 2
348 The Serpent V4 6b ** 6
349 Steve's Trouser Snake V3 6a ** 2
350 Ape Index Arete V5 6b/c * 1
351 The Metolious Mantle V0 5b 2
352 Korma V3 6a * 2
353 Big 'Ed V1 5c 3
354 Panjandrum V3 6a * 4
355 Panjandrum Lip Traverse V2 6a 2
356 Panjandrum Low Traverse Reverse V2 5b/c * 1
357 Eyelid Traverse V4 ** 3
358 Understanding V3 ** 7
359 Lateral Thinking V4 6b ** 4
360 Devon Sent V10 6c *** 7
361 Nether Edge V7 6c *** 11
362 B Movie V3 6b 14
363 The Bear Hunt V7 6c ** 1
364 Full Length Feature V3 6a ** 28
365 The Modern Dance V8 ** 3
366 Beara Boogie V4 6a/b ** 3
367 Love Bugs V1 *** 6
368 Owner of a Lonely Heart f4 * 6
369 Corporal Blobheart V3 ** 3
370 Captain Blobheart V5 ** 1
371 99 V3 6a * 1
372 Cornetto V5 6a/b ** 1
373 The Yak's Nose V4 6b ** 3
374 Bearaburger Traverse V5 6b ** 2
375 Tesco Horseburger V3 6a * 1
376 The MuckBovey Burger V2 5c * 2
377 Careless Pork V4 6b * 2
378 Eggs and Gammon V3 6a * 8
379 Poor Rhiannon V6 6b/c *** 7
380 Mastic Medic LH V3 6a * 4
381 Mastic Medic RH V4 6b * 3
382 The Green Travesty V5 6b ** 4
383 The Unbearable Likelihood of Being Squished V2 5c * 3
  Wilderness and Below the Path
385 Tips, Toes and Ankle Woes V5 ** 1
386 Gnarly Dude V6 6b * 1
387 Sweet Dude V1 5b ** 5
388 Punter's Traverse V1 5b * 1
389 Steep Dude Traverse V5 6b ** 4
390 Dudely Moore V4 6b * 4
391 Hey Dude! V2 5c ** 5
392 Horny Ridge V3 6a/b * 8
393 Horny Wall V4 6b ** 3
394 Matterhorn Crack V2 * 2
395 Opposite Prow V2 2
396 Butter Bun V4 * 4
397 Hovis V1 * 4
398 Wilderness Arete V1 * 3
399 The Pig Nest V3 6a/b ** 5
400 Liane V5 6b **  
401 Blobby Flakes
-
V1 2
402 The Wilderness Traverse V4 6b ** 2
403 The Pipe Arete V5 6b/c ** 2
404 Smokin' V5 6b ** 3
405 The Dharma Initiative V3 6a/b * 2
406 Jakob's Ladder V6 6b *** 1
407 The Others V6 6b/c ** 1
408 The Lost Boys V6 6b **  

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