Altitude 100m a.s.l
If this was in the Peak it would be one of the most sought after lines around, but it isn't... © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing
A huge area comprising of five main sectors - Shaptor Rock, Lower Shaptor, Rock Copse, Bearacleave and Stonelands Waste. Classic problems of all grades but be prepared to invest a little time in 'getting orientated'.
Keep a low profile and treat with respect - this is a beautiful, ancient and (mainly) litter free wood. Please park considerately, brush off chalk and remove all finger tape (and other litter). Land owned by Woodland Trust and National Trust.
Bovey Woods covers an area owned by several landowners, including the National Trust and Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at Bearacleave and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulder, but also some other issues. Please keep the following points in mind when visiting the area to avoid the situation deteriorating:
Try to keep cleaning/de-vegging to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to you as a climber, but the landowner and other users may not agree. Clean holds individually rather than stripping entire boulders of vegetation.
Brush off excess chalk and tick marks before you move on to the next problem. Chalk can be really noticeable to non-climbers and detract from their experiance of an unspoilt environment, so remove as much as possible before leaving a problem.
Avoid using this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
|Hey, I've put together a pretty accurate map for Bovey woods, and please message me if you want a copy. It's basically the coordinates (and names) for the boulders, which are used with a smartphone app to find your way! Dan|
Dan 85 - 16/Apr/15
|The wiki site has changed its address to:
Directions and parking details have been added.|
tomrainbow - 12/Jan/14
|Is there a rough map available anywhere? The only one I can find are the sketches on shaptor.wetpaint.com, which are brilliant, if you know where you are/where the rocks are anyway. The sketches dont seem to match up with OS maps?|
tomwheeler - 23/May/11
|Named problems constitute about a third of the climbed problems in the Woods. For more detailed info, topos, video footage, comment etc visit
tomrainbow - 15/Jan/09