Climbs 266
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SW

Unknown climbers topping out Bamford edge at sunset. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Approach notes

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).

Access Advice

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Bamford Edge (and Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) will be closed for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (2000) during the following dates in 2017:

  • 11th to 26th May
  • 30th and 31st May
  • 1st and 2nd June
  • 5th to 9th June
  • 12th to 14th June

Full details of the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Bamford Edge' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Great Buttress - Upper TIer
2 End Face VS 5b 2
3 Wall Right of End Face HS 4c 4
4 Wall left of Easy Chimney HVD 4a 8
5 Easy Chimney M 70
6 Palpitation HS 4c 18
7 Thumping HVS 5c 3
8 Thin on Top E2 5b 1
9 Green and Nasty E2 5c 10
10 In My Pocket E1 5b 2
11 In My Pocket Arete
-
V0 5a 8
12 Initiation Wall
-
HVD 4a 7
13 Initiation S 4a 52
14 Introduction Wall HS 4c 5
15 Introduction S 4a 10
16 Beer Matters VS 5a 30
17 Fat Cat VS 5b 11
18 Deep Chimney M 80
19 Gene
-
HS 4b 4
20 Kelly HS 4b * 96
21 Deaf Raspberry Climb E1 5c 3
22 Astronaut's Wall HVS 5b * 110
23 Possibility S 4a * 367
24 Primitive Chimney VD 65
25 The Overhang Traverse M 9
26 Undercut Crack E2 5c ** 50
27 A35 E1 5b 1
28 M35 (A35) E6 6c **  
29 Avoiding the Traitors E7 6c ** 6
30 Bad Wind S 4a 21
31 Claim to Fame HVS 5a 13
32 Terrace Rib VS 4c 70
33 Terrace Trog M * 167
34 Missing ASG
-
HVS 5a 2
35 Terrace Wall VS 4b 20
36 Old Wall HVS 5b * 8
37 Gargoyle Flake VS 4c *** 2076
38 Gargoyle Gully Left D 12
39 Gargoyle Gully Middle D 7
40 Gargoyle Gully Right D 12
41 Sunset S 4a 188
42 Beelzebugger HVS 5b 44
43 Bum Deal E1 5c * 145
44 Clean, Squeaky and Scented E1 6a 8
45 Hard Rain E2 5c  
46 Left Wing S 4a 84
47 Almost Granite E1 5b * 15
48 Tinner HVS 5b * 164
49 Right-hand Twin HVS 5a * 306
50 Private Practice E1 5b * 49
51 Solstice Arete VS 4c 73
  Great Tor - Lower Tier
  The Salmon Boulders
54 Something Silly f6C * 1
55 Something Else f4 * 10
56 Win Hill f4+ 9
57 Lose Hill f6A+ * 13
58 Ping Pong Pocket Rib f7A+ ** 5
59 Flaky Fluster f6B * 5
60 Wriggly Crack f4 * 12
61 Snap f3+ * 10
62 Short Smart Slab Centre
-
V0 5a 6
63 Short Smart Slab Right Arete
-
V0- 4c 5
  Salmon Slab Area
65 Shallow Groove S 4a 15
66 Hasta La Vista Corner VD 5
67 Hasta La Vista HVD 3c 64
68 Back Flip E1 5b * 42
69 Benberry Wall E3 5b 13
70 The Naked Eye E2 5b * 20
71 Bilberry Crack (Bamford) VS 5a ** 1189
72 Recess Crack VD * 573
73 Recess Groove HS 4b 115
74 Jive Bunny
-
E4 5c  
75 Nemmes Sabe HVS 5a ** 137
76 Nemmes Pas Harry E1 5b ** 550
77 Quien Sabe? VS 4c *** 1255
78 Quien Sabe? Eliminate E3 6a 1
79 Brown's Crack HS 4b *** 1768
80 Jetrunner E4 6a ** 317
81 Trout (Salmon Left-Hand) E6 6b *** 26
82 Salmon Direct E6 6c ** 5
83 The Salmon E7 6c * 1
84 Smoked Salmon E7 7a * 2
85 Curving Crack VS 4c ** 772
86 Poached Salmon E5 6c * 15
87 Tartar Sauce
-
E5 6b 1
88 Sandy Crack HS 4b * 307
89 Quebec City VS 4c * 36
90 Quebec City Variation HS 4b 4
91 Greydon Boddington HVS 5b * 106
92 Fizz E1 5c * 227
93 Two Real Doleys Scrounging
-
E3 6b  
94 Flake Buttress Rib
-
HS 4b 6
95 Kinked Crack VD 4
96 The Egg E4 6a 8
97 High and Dry E6 6b 3
98 The Chicken
-
HVS 5a  
99 Acid Slab
-
VD 6
100 Assorted Batteries
-
HVS 5a 1
101 Various Undercuts
-
HVS 5a 1
102 Alkaline Arete
-
S 4a 4
  Wrinkled Wall Area
104 Klever
-
VS 5b 9
105 Klueless
-
HS 5a 16
106 K'Pow
-
V0 5a 9
107 Kin'eck Hanging Crack V0 4c 11
108 Kin 'eck
-
S 22
109 You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete) VD 17
110 Crystal Tips and Alistair HS 4b 7
111 K'kin
-
HS 4c 15
112 Kpax HS 4c 8
113 K Prow VD 4
114 The K Kole HS 4b 3
115 Que? Slab D 160
116 Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab Direct D * 409
117 K Buttress Slab VD * 417
118 K Kole Arete f6B+ ** 25
119 Ko'd f6B * 12
120 Ko'd (no ledge)
-
V4 6a 6
121 K Buttress Crack S 4a ** 105
122 K Buttress Crack Direct S 4c 9
123 Wrong Hand Route E1 5c ** 306
124 Skarlati E2 5b * 46
125 Fern Chimney D 82
126 Bracken Crack VD * 326
127 Tome V2 5c * 4
128 The Bookend f6B ** 25
129 Bookend Right f6C+ ** 3
130 The Plumber has Landed f6B * 7
131 Down to Earth f6A+ *** 84
132 Crunchy Nuts/Deb VS 5a 105
133 Deb f4+ * 5
134 Stoned
-
V2 5b 4
135 Petered Out
-
V0 4c 12
136 Wee Lassie VS 5b 6
137 Special K HVS 5b * 11
138 Dead Mouse Crack HS 4c 40
139 Hanging Crack HS 4b 25
140 Bamboozer f6C * 18
141 Spike f7B *** 5
142 Jasmine E6 6b ** 43
143 Access Account E3 6a * 35
144 Wrinkled Wall VS 4c *** 1539
145 Old and Wrinkled HVS 5a * 253
146 The Crease E1 5a * 941
147 Sinuous Crack VD 288
148 Duff Paddy
-
V4 6a 1
149 Save Dinnomite
-
V4 6a 2
150 Way Rood
-
V0 5a 3
  Neb Buttress
152 Twiglet Wall
-
V2 5c 1
153 Monster Munch
-
V3 6a 1
154 Cleopatra VS 4c 15
155 Samson's Delight VS 4c * 264
156 Dirty Stop Out E2 5c ** 90
157 Delilah HS 4b * 107
158 Delilah Crack
-
V0+ 5b 16
159 Short Curve HVD * 384
160 The Business Boy E1 6a * 17
161 Czech Mate VS 5a 3
162 Snuggazzabug HS 4b 4
163 N.B. Corner D 158
164 Big Ben VS 4b 90
165 Parliament E1 5c * 94
166 Neb Buttress Direct HVS 5a *** 299
167 Auricle E2 5c ** 452
168 Jumping Jack Longland E3 5c * 70
169 Neb Buttress HVS 5a *** 754
170 Bamford Rib HVS 5a ** 968
171 Holly Crack
-
VD 19
172 Bramble Crack VD 105
173 The Happy Wanderer HVS 5a ** 619
174 Reach VS 4c * 517
175 Bamford Wall S 4a ** 1741
176 Bamford Buttress S 4a * 836
177 Busy Day at Bamford VS 5a 98
178 Twin Cracks VS 4b * 179
179 Custard's Last Stand HVS 5b * 5
180 Deep Cleft M * 192
181 Oracle HS 4b ** 342
182 Sterling Moss E4 6b * 5
183 Ontos E3 6b ** 60
184 Fatal Inheritance E4 6a 6
185 Purgamentum E4 6b 1
186 Trouble with Lichen HVS 5b ** 83
187 Slanting Slab M 154
188 Grey Days E2 5c 2
189 Three Little Pigs
-
HVD 4a 8
190 Mur
-
V0+ 5b 7
191 Fente
-
V0- 4c 7
192 Cannalure
-
V1 5b 7
  Porthole Buttress
194 Slab and Crack Arete D 42
195 Slab and Crack (Bamford) D * 309
196 Moglichkeit HS 4b 100
197 Plimsoll Line HVS 5b 52
198 Porthole HVS 5b * 179
199 Portside S 4a 419
200 Portside Start V0- 4a 26
201 Leaning Slab VD * 548
202 A Treat for the Gimp HS 4c 31
203 Sloop John B HD 4b 11
204 Trango 2 Left Arete
-
HS 4c 17
205 Trango 2 E3 5c 36
206 Trango 2 Right Arete
-
HS 4b 15
  Christmas Themed Buttresses
208 Dream D 36
209 Quince VD 29
210 Snug VD 29
211 Midsummer Madness HS 4b 24
212 Dawn and Dusk S 4b 21
213 The Curse of the Shortening Day S 4b 27
214 Midsummer Wall VD 33
215 Bilberry Arete VD 34
216 Cold Turkey S 4a 24
217 Stuffing VD 18
218 Santa's Pants VD 17
219 Overindulgence Arete HS 4b 20
220 Trogolodyte's Route D 22
221 Christmas Pudding VD 38
222 Christmas Present VD 39
223 Christmas Cracker D 49
224 A Traditional Christmas HS 4b 26
225 Paxo Arete S 4a 32
226 Chestnut Chimney D 36
227 Mistletoe S 4c 37
228 Ivy VD 55
229 Holly VD 56
230 Bellyflop Extravaganza HVD 4a 20
231 Feast of Stephen HS 4c 34
232 Wenceslas D 37
233 Ebenezer S 4c 45
  Gun Buttress
235 Jumping the Gun
-
HS 4b 23
236 Shadow Wall VS 4b * 384
237 Life During Wartime E2 5c * 65
238 Randy's Wall HVS 5a ** 424
239 Magnum Force HVS 5a * 108
240 Springboard
-
E1 5a 8
241 Gunpowder Crack VS 5b ** 727
242 Master Blaster E1 5c * 44
243 Loader's Bay D 329
244 Ammo S 4a 475
245 Long John f6A * 111
246 Three Real Men Dancing f6B+ ** 29
247 Green Chimney D 178
248 Artillery Corner D 462
249 Gangway VD 485
250 Gangway Variation Start S 4b 101
251 Gangway Direct HS 4c 85
252 Green Parrot f5 * 250
253 A Minah Variation f6A * 15
254 Bosun's Slab M * 561
255 Concave Slab D 563
256 Convex or Perplexed VS 5b 149
257 Adjacent Slab VD 422
258 Adjacent Slab (Direct)
-
S 4c 104
259 Hypotenuse M * 585
260 Opposite S 4a 589
261 Vertigo HS 4c * 425
262 Armed and Dangerous E4 6a * 12
263 Dynamite Groove HVS 5b 13
264 Funny Side S 4a 58
265 Topside HS 4b * 35
266 Sunny Side S 4a * 252
267 Right Side S 4a 93
268 Slopey Side HVS 5b 46
  Unplaced Routes
270 Downpour HS 4b  
271 Gasbag E2 5c *  
272 Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib combo VS 4c * 3
273 Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth)
-
HVD 1
274 Possibility - right hand finish S 4a 1
275 Beachbugger * VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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