UKC

Climbs 267
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SW

Unknown climbers topping out Bamford edge at sunset. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

A uniquely unspoilt natural gritstone edge, the benefit of access restrictions,(see below) Excellent quality grit. Elevated position above moors, dries quickly, but exposed to the elements. Good climbs of all grades approx. 8 to 13m high. Seldom busy. First visit go to The Great Tor and sample the delights of Brown's Crack (HS 4b), Quien Sabe? (VS 4c), or Bilberry Crack (VS 5a). Tussle with Undercut Crack (E2 5b), sheer thuggary, or for something more delicate, try anything on The Salmon slab (E4/5 to E7). A gem of a place.

Approach notes

Approach from Bamford, north along A6013 to Ladybower. After 1 mile turn rt (Bamford Moor). Limited parking on side of rd. past edge where road starts to level out, just before a gate. Footpath leads up to RH end of edge (10 min).

Access Advice

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Bamford Edge (and Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) will be closed for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (2000) during the following dates in 2017:

  • 11th to 26th May
  • 30th and 31st May
  • 1st and 2nd June
  • 5th to 9th June
  • 12th to 14th June

Full details of the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Bamford Edge' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Great Buttress - Upper TIer
2 End Face VS 5b 2
3 Wall Right of End Face HS 4c 5
4 Wall left of Easy Chimney HVD 4a 11
5 Easy Chimney M 74
6 Palpitation HS 4c 18
7 Thumping HVS 5c 3
8 Thin on Top E2 5b 1
9 Green and Nasty E2 5c 10
10 In My Pocket E1 5b 2
11 In My Pocket Arete
-
V0 5a 8
12 Initiation Wall
-
HVD 4a 7
13 Initiation S 4a 51
14 Introduction Wall HS 4c 5
15 Introduction S 4a 10
16 Beer Matters VS 5a 27
17 Fat Cat VS 5b 11
18 Deep Chimney M 86
19 Gene
-
HS 4b 4
20 Kelly HS 4b * 96
21 Deaf Raspberry Climb E1 5c 4
22 Astronaut's Wall HVS 5b * 114
23 Possibility S 4a * 375
24 Primitive Chimney VD 64
25 The Overhang Traverse M 12
26 Undercut Crack E2 5c ** 53
27 A35 E1 5b 2
28 M35 (A35) E6 6c **  
29 Avoiding the Traitors E7 6c ** 3
30 Bad Wind S 4a 29
31 Claim to Fame HVS 5a 13
32 Terrace Rib VS 4c 74
33 Terrace Trog M * 176
34 Missing ASG
-
HVS 5a 2
35 Terrace Wall VS 4b 24
36 Old Wall HVS 5b * 7
37 Gargoyle Flake VS 4c *** 1952
38 Gargoyle Gully Left D 19
39 Gargoyle Gully Middle D 9
40 Gargoyle Gully Right D 17
41 Sunset S 4a 201
42 Beelzebugger HVS 5b 50
43 Bum Deal E1 5c * 156
44 Clean, Squeaky and Scented E1 6a 9
45 Hard Rain E2 5c  
46 Left Wing S 4a 87
47 Almost Granite E1 5b * 16
48 Tinner HVS 5b * 178
49 Right-hand Twin HVS 5a * 332
50 Private Practice E1 5b * 64
51 Solstice Arete VS 4c 82
  Great Tor - Lower Tier
  The Salmon Boulders
54 Something Silly f6C * 2
55 Something Else f4 * 10
56 Win Hill f4+ 8
57 Lose Hill f6A+ * 12
58 Ping Pong Pocket Rib f7A+ ** 8
59 Flaky Fluster f6B * 6
60 Wriggly Crack f4 * 13
61 Snap f3+ * 15
62 Short Smart Slab Centre
-
V0 5a 7
63 Short Smart Slab Right Arete
-
V0- 4c 6
  Salmon Slab Area
65 Shallow Groove S 4a 16
66 Hasta La Vista Corner VD 7
67 Hasta La Vista HVD 3c 66
68 Back Flip E1 5b * 44
69 Benberry Wall E3 5b 14
70 The Naked Eye E2 5b * 21
71 Bilberry Crack (Bamford) VS 5a ** 1254
72 Recess Crack VD * 616
73 Recess Groove HS 4b 122
74 Jive Bunny
-
E4 5c  
75 Nemmes Sabe HVS 5a ** 127
76 Nemmes Pas Harry E1 5b ** 542
77 Quien Sabe? VS 4c *** 1273
78 Quien Sabe? Eliminate E3 6a 1
79 Brown's Crack HS 4b *** 1815
80 Jetrunner E4 6a ** 266
81 Trout (Salmon Left-Hand) E6 6b *** 28
82 Salmon Direct E6 6c ** 5
83 The Salmon E7 6c * 1
84 Smoked Salmon E7 7a * 2
85 Curving Crack VS 4c ** 794
86 Poached Salmon E5 6c * 17
87 Tartar Sauce
-
E5 6b 2
88 Sandy Crack HS 4b * 311
89 Quebec City VS 4c * 43
90 Quebec City Variation HS 4b 4
91 Greydon Boddington HVS 5b * 110
92 Fizz E1 5c * 224
93 Two Real Doleys Scrounging
-
E3 6b  
Climb name Grade
94 Flake Buttress Rib
-
HS 4b 6
95 Kinked Crack VD 4
96 The Egg E4 6a 10
97 High and Dry E6 6b 5
98 The Chicken
-
HVS 5a  
99 Acid Slab
-
VD 6
100 Assorted Batteries
-
HVS 5a 1
101 Various Undercuts
-
HVS 5a 1
102 Alkaline Arete
-
S 4a 4
  Wrinkled Wall Area
104 Klever
-
VS 5b 9
105 Klueless
-
HS 5a 18
106 K'Pow
-
V0 5a 10
107 Kin'eck Hanging Crack V0 4c 12
108 Kin 'eck
-
S 24
109 You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arete) VD 18
110 Crystal Tips and Alistair HS 4b 7
111 K'kin
-
HS 4c 15
112 Kpax HS 4c 8
113 K Prow VD 4
114 The K Kole HS 4b 3
115 Que? Slab D 186
116 Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab Direct D * 435
117 K Buttress Slab VD * 446
118 K Kole Arete f6B+ ** 25
119 Ko'd f6B * 12
120 Ko'd (no ledge)
-
V4 6a 6
121 K Buttress Crack S 4a ** 117
122 K Buttress Crack Direct S 4c 9
123 Wrong Hand Route E1 5c ** 309
124 Skarlati E2 5b * 51
125 Fern Chimney D 91
126 Bracken Crack VD * 348
127 Tome V2 5c * 4
128 The Bookend f6B ** 29
129 Bookend Right f6C+ ** 4
130 The Plumber has Landed f6B * 9
131 Down to Earth f6A+ *** 79
132 Crunchy Nuts/Deb VS 5a 105
133 Deb f4+ * 8
134 Stoned
-
V2 5b 5
135 Petered Out
-
V0 4c 13
136 Wee Lassie VS 5b 6
137 Special K HVS 5b * 13
138 Dead Mouse Crack HS 4c 41
139 Hanging Crack HS 4b 27
140 Bamboozer f6C * 19
141 Spike f7B *** 9
142 Jasmine E6 6b ** 49
143 Access Account E3 6a * 31
144 Wrinkled Wall VS 4c *** 1588
145 Old and Wrinkled HVS 5a * 251
146 The Crease E1 5a * 952
147 Sinuous Crack VD 306
148 Duff Paddy
-
V4 6a 2
149 Save Dinnomite
-
V4 6a 2
150 Way Rood
-
V0 5a 4
151 Unnamed V1 Arete * V1 5b 1
152 The Bookend sit start *
-
f6C+ 1
  Neb Buttress
154 Twiglet Wall
-
V2 5c 1
155 Monster Munch
-
V3 6a 1
156 Cleopatra VS 4c 17
157 Samson's Delight VS 4c * 276
158 Dirty Stop Out E2 5c ** 90
159 Delilah HS 4b * 109
160 Delilah Crack
-
V0+ 5b 16
161 Short Curve HVD * 408
162 The Business Boy E1 6a * 18
163 Czech Mate VS 5a 3
164 Snuggazzabug HS 4b 4
165 N.B. Corner D 180
166 Big Ben VS 4b 93
167 Parliament E1 5c * 99
168 Neb Buttress Direct HVS 5a *** 295
169 Auricle E2 5c ** 451
170 Jumping Jack Longland E3 5c * 65
171 Neb Buttress HVS 5a *** 745
172 Bamford Rib HVS 5a ** 1012
173 Holly Crack
-
VD 21
174 Bramble Crack VD 119
175 The Happy Wanderer HVS 5a ** 625
176 Reach VS 4c * 555
177 Bamford Wall S 4a ** 1897
178 Bamford Buttress S 4a * 905
179 Busy Day at Bamford VS 5a 104
180 Twin Cracks VS 4b * 206
181 Custard's Last Stand HVS 5b * 5
182 Deep Cleft M * 201
183 Oracle HS 4b ** 354
184 Sterling Moss E4 6b * 3
185 Ontos E3 6b ** 48
186 Fatal Inheritance E4 6a 6
Climb name Grade
187 Purgamentum E4 6b 1
188 Trouble with Lichen HVS 5b ** 100
189 Slanting Slab M 161
190 Grey Days E2 5c 2
191 Three Little Pigs
-
HVD 4a 9
192 Mur
-
V0+ 5b 10
193 Fente
-
V0- 4c 10
194 Cannalure
-
V1 5b 9
  Porthole Buttress
196 Slab and Crack Arete D 48
197 Slab and Crack (Bamford) D * 329
198 Moglichkeit HS 4b 111
199 Plimsoll Line HVS 5b 62
200 Porthole HVS 5b * 199
201 Portside S 4a 471
202 Portside Start V0- 4a 32
203 Leaning Slab VD * 610
204 A Treat for the Gimp HS 4c 33
205 Sloop John B HD 4b 11
206 Trango 2 Left Arete
-
HS 4c 19
207 Trango 2 E3 5c 38
208 Trango 2 Right Arete
-
HS 4b 15
  Christmas Themed Buttresses
210 Dream D 49
211 Quince VD 41
212 Snug VD 38
213 Midsummer Madness HS 4b 36
214 Dawn and Dusk S 4b 26
215 The Curse of the Shortening Day S 4b 34
216 Midsummer Wall VD 47
217 Bilberry Arete VD 47
218 Cold Turkey S 4a 29
219 Stuffing VD 28
220 Santa's Pants VD 25
221 Overindulgence Arete HS 4b 30
222 Trogolodyte's Route D 30
223 Christmas Pudding VD 46
224 Christmas Present VD 46
225 Christmas Cracker D 63
226 A Traditional Christmas HS 4b 37
227 Paxo Arete S 4a 38
228 Chestnut Chimney D 49
229 Mistletoe S 4c 46
230 Ivy VD 72
231 Holly VD 73
232 Bellyflop Extravaganza HVD 4a 26
233 Feast of Stephen HS 4c 43
234 Wenceslas D 43
235 Ebenezer S 4c 60
  Gun Buttress
237 Jumping the Gun
-
HS 4b 24
238 Shadow Wall VS 4b * 401
239 Life During Wartime E2 5c * 63
240 Randy's Wall HVS 5a ** 430
241 Magnum Force HVS 5a * 114
242 Springboard
-
E1 5a 8
243 Gunpowder Crack VS 5b ** 760
244 Master Blaster E1 5c * 47
245 Loader's Bay D 355
246 Ammo S 4a 510
247 Long John f6A * 114
248 Three Real Men Dancing f6B+ ** 29
249 Green Chimney D 189
250 Artillery Corner D 504
251 Gangway VD 520
252 Gangway Variation Start S 4b 114
253 Gangway Direct HS 4c 89
254 Green Parrot f5 * 261
255 A Minah Variation f6A * 19
256 Bosun's Slab M * 606
257 Concave Slab D 606
258 Convex or Perplexed VS 5b 160
259 Adjacent Slab VD 452
260 Adjacent Slab (Direct)
-
S 4c 110
261 Hypotenuse M * 642
262 Opposite S 4a 641
263 Vertigo HS 4c * 451
264 Armed and Dangerous E4 6a * 12
265 Dynamite Groove HVS 5b 15
266 Funny Side S 4a 69
267 Topside HS 4b * 45
268 Sunny Side S 4a * 273
269 Right Side S 4a 104
270 Slopey Side HVS 5b 47
  Unplaced Routes
272 Downpour HS 4b  
273 Gasbag E2 5c *  
274 Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib combo VS 4c * 4
275 Vegetated Chimney (by Down to Earth)
-
HVD 1
276 Possibility - right hand finish S 4a 1
277 Beachbugger * VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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