Climbs 266
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 407m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Unknown climbers topping out Bamford edge at sunset. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Bamford Edge consists of a fine series of jutting buttresses in a spectacular situation above the upper reaches of the Derwent Valley and the Ladybower Reservoir. For many years restricted access meant that the edge became something of a backwater, though this changed with the introduction of CROW. The crag is now firmly on the circuit; it can get busy especially on fine summer weekends and is starting to look a little tired in places. The rock is a coarse form of gritstone, the pebbles forming crucial holds on some of the hardest climbs.

Approach notes

A minor road (New Road) runs below the cliff from a point 1km north of the village of Bamford and just south of the Yorkshire Bridge pub. At the top of this is roadside parking for a dozen or more cars by a gate. Cross this then follow the track that heads left rising steadily to Gun Buttress, which is hidden just around the corner, about 15 mins from the road.

Access Advice

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Bamford Edge (and Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) will be closed for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (2000) during the following dates in 2017:

  • 11th to 26th May
  • 30th and 31st May
  • 1st and 2nd June
  • 5th to 9th June
  • 12th to 14th June

Full details of the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Bamford Edge' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Salmon Boulders
2 Something Silly f6C * 3
3 Something Else f4 * 12
4 Win Hill f4+ 11
5 Lose Hill f6A+ * 16
6 Ping Pong Pocket Rib f7A+ ** 9
7 Flaky Fluster f6B * 7
8 Wriggly Crack f4 * 15
9 Snap f3+ * 20
10 Short Smart Slab Centre
-
V0 9
11 Short Smart Slab Right Arête
-
V0- 8
  Great Tor - Lower Tier
13 Shallow Groove S 4a 29
14 Hasta La Vista HVD 3c 69
15 Back Flip E1 5b * 44
16 Benberry Wall E3 5b 14
17 The Naked Eye E2 5b * 21
18 Bilberry Crack VS 5a ** 1402
19 Recess Crack VD * 685
20 Recess Groove HS 4b 145
21 Jive Bunny
-
E4 5c  
22 Nemmes Sabe HVS 5a ** 149
23 Nemmes Pas Harry E1 5b ** 595
24 Quien Sabe? VS 4c *** 1415
25 Quien Sabe? Eliminate E3 6a 1
26 Brown's Crack HS 4b *** 2012
27 Gasbag/Jetrunner Direct Start E2 5c *  
28 Jetrunner E4 6a ** 286
29 Trout/Salmon Left-Hand E6 6b *** 31
30 The Salmon E7 6c * 2
31 Salmon Direct E6 6c ** 5
32 Smoked Salmon E7 7a * 2
33 Curving Crack VS 4c ** 920
34 Poached Salmon E5 6c * 18
35 Tartar Sauce
-
E5 6b 3
36 Sandy Crack HS 4b * 347
37 Quebec City VS 4c * 49
38 Greydon Boddington HVS 5b * 120
39 Fizz E1 5c * 250
40 Two Real Doleys Scrounging
-
E3 6b  
41 Flake Buttress Rib
-
HS 4b 7
42 Kinked Crack VD 4
43 The Egg E4 6a 10
44 High and Dry E6 6b 6
45 The Chicken
-
HVS 5a  
46 Acid Slab
-
VD 6
47 Assorted Batteries
-
HVS 5a 1
48 Various Undercuts
-
HVS 5a 1
49 Alkaline Arête
-
S 4a 4
  Great Buttress - Upper TIer
51 End Face VS 5b 3
52 WRoEF HS 4c 6
53 WLoEC HVD 4a 15
54 Easy Chimney M 87
55 Palpitation HS 4c 22
56 Thumping HVS 5c 4
57 Thin on Top E2 5b 1
58 Green and Nasty E2 5c 12
59 In My Pocket E1 5b 2
60 In My Pocket Arête
-
V0 9
61 Initiation Wall
-
HVD 4a 7
62 Initiation S 4a 59
63 Introduction Wall HS 4c 5
64 Introduction S 4a 16
65 Beer Matters VS 5a 29
66 Fat Cat VS 5b 14
67 Deep Chimney M 94
68 Gene
-
HS 4b 4
69 Kelly HS 4b * 106
70 Deaf Raspberry Climb E1 5c 4
71 Astronaut's Wall HVS 5b * 121
72 Possibility S 4a * 416
73 Possibility Right-hand Finish S 4a 1
74 Primitive Chimney VD 69
75 Undercut Crack E2 5c ** 60
76 A35 E1 5b 1
77 M35 (A35) E6 6c **  
78 Avoiding the Traitors E7 6c ** 5
79 The Overhang Traverse M 18
80 Bad Wind S 4a 41
81 Claim to Fame HVS 5a 14
82 Terrace Rib VS 4c 81
83 Terrace Wall VS 4b 27
84 Terrace Trog M * 195
85 Missing ASG
-
HVS 5a 3
86 Old Wall HVS 5b * 11
87 Gargoyle Flake VS 4c *** 2201
88 Gargoyle Gully Left D 21
89 Gargoyle Gully Right D 21
90 Gargoyle Gully Right Direct Finish
-
D 10
91 Sunset S 4a 231
92 Beelzebugger HVS 5b 53
Climb name Grade
93 Bum Deal E1 5c * 168
94 Clean, Squeaky and Scented E1 6a 13
95 Hard Rain E2 5c 1
96 Left Wing S 4a 90
97 Almost Granite E1 5b * 17
98 Tinner HVS 5b * 201
99 Right-hand Twin HVS 5a * 371
100 Private Practice E1 5b * 70
101 Solstice Arête VS 4c 87
  Wrinkled Wall Area
103 Klever
-
VS 5b 9
104 Klueless
-
HS 5a 18
105 K'Pow
-
V0 10
106 Kin 'eck
-
S 24
107 You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arête) VD 18
108 Kin'eck Hanging Crack V0 12
109 Crystal Tips and Alistair HS 4b 7
110 K'kin
-
HS 4c 15
111 K-PAX HS 4c 8
112 K Prow VD 4
113 The K Kole HS 4b 3
114 Que? Slab D 214
115 Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab Direct D * 468
116 K Buttress Slab VD * 491
117 K Kole Arête f6B+ ** 31
118 KO'd f6B * 13
119 KO'd (with ledge)
-
V2 7
120 K Buttress Crack S 4a ** 127
121 K Buttress Crack Direct S 4c 9
122 Wrong Hand Route E1 5c ** 348
123 Skarlati E2 5b * 53
124 Fern Chimney D 102
125 Bracken Crack VD * 389
126 Tome V2 * 4
127 The Bookend f6B ** 34
128 The Bookend, Sit-start
-
f6C+ 1
129 Bookend Right f6C+ ** 5
130 The Plumber has Landed f6B * 9
131 Down to Earth f6A+ *** 83
132 Vegetated Chimney
-
HVD 1
133 Deb/Crunchy Nuts VS 5a 111
134 Deb f4+ * 11
135 Stoned
-
V2 5b 7
136 Petered Out
-
V0 4c 14
137 Wee Lassie VS 5b 8
138 Special K HVS 5b * 15
139 Dead Mouse Crack HS 4c 47
140 Hanging Crack HS 4b 30
141 Bamboozer f6C * 25
142 Spike f7B *** 12
143 Jasmine E6 6b ** 54
144 Access Account E3 6a * 33
145 Wrinkled Wall VS 4c *** 1771
146 Old and Wrinkled HVS 5a * 283
147 The Crease E1 5a * 1048
148 Sinuous Crack VD 329
149 Duff Paddy
-
V4 2
150 Save Dinnomite
-
V4 2
151 Way Rood
-
V0 4
152 Way Rood Arête V1 1
  Neb Buttress
154 Twiglet Wall
-
V2 1
155 Monster Munch
-
V3 1
156 Cleopatra VS 4c 24
157 Samson's Delight VS 4c * 310
158 Dirty Stop Out E2 5c ** 97
159 Delilah HS 4b * 123
160 Delilah Crack
-
V0+ 18
161 Short Curve HVD * 446
162 The Business Boy E1 6a * 18
163 Czech Mate VS 5a 3
164 Snuggazzabug HS 4b 4
165 N.B. Corner D 210
166 Big Ben VS 4b 116
167 Parliament E1 5c * 112
168 Neb Buttress Direct HVS 5a *** 352
169 Auricle E2 5c ** 499
170 Jumping Jack Longland E3 5c * 70
171 Neb Buttress Direct Start
-
HVS 5a **  
172 Neb Buttress HVS 5a *** 830
173 Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib Combo VS 4c * 5
174 Bamford Rib HVS 5a ** 1145
175 Holly Crack
-
VD 21
176 Bramble Crack VD 131
177 The Happy Wanderer HVS 5a ** 702
178 Reach VS 4c * 618
179 Bamford Wall S 4a ** 2139
180 Bamford Buttress S 4a * 1014
181 Busy Day at Bamford VS 5a 123
182 Twin Cracks VS 4b * 247
183 Custard's Last Stand HVS 5b * 6
184 Oracle HS 4b ** 393
Climb name Grade
185 Deep Cleft M * 218
186 Sterling Moss E4 6b * 6
187 Ontos E3 6b ** 51
188 Fatal Inheritance E4 6a 6
189 Purgamentum E4 6b 2
190 Trouble with Lichen HVS 5b ** 115
191 Slanting Slab M 182
192 Grey Days E2 5c 2
193 Three Little Pigs
-
HVD 4a 9
194 Mur
-
V0+ 5b 10
195 Fente
-
V0- 4c 10
196 Cannalure
-
V1 5b 9
  Christmas Buttresses
198 Dream D 66
199 Quince VD 56
200 Snug VD 51
201 Midsummer Madness HS 4b 46
202 Dawn and Dusk S 4b 34
203 The Curse of the Shortening Day S 4b 45
204 Midsummer Wall VD 71
205 Bilberry Arête VD 67
206 Cold Turkey S 4a 36
207 Stuffing VD 45
208 Santa's Pants VD 44
209 Overindulgence Arête HS 4b 40
210 Trogolodyte's Route D 41
211 Christmas Pudding VD 76
212 Christmas Present VD 74
213 Christmas Cracker D 94
214 A Traditional Christmas HS 4b 53
215 Paxo Arête S 4a 52
216 Chestnut Chimney D 74
217 Mistletoe S 4c 63
218 Ivy VD 101
219 Holly VD 107
220 Bellyflop Extravaganza HVD 4a 32
221 Feast of Stephen HS 4c 64
222 Wenceslas D 61
223 Ebenezer S 4c 82
  Porthole Buttress
225 Slab and Crack Arête D 66
226 Slab and Crack D * 374
227 Moglichkeit HS 4b 125
228 Plimsoll Line HVS 5b 73
229 Porthole HVS 5b * 228
230 Portside S 4a 561
231 A Treat for the Gimp HS 4c 40
232 Leaning Slab VD * 686
233 Sloop John B HD 4b 13
234 Trango 2 Left Arête
-
HS 4c 19
235 Trango 2 E3 5c 40
236 Trango 2 Right Arête
-
HS 4b 15
  Gun Buttress
238 Jumping the Gun
-
HS 4b 26
239 Shadow Wall VS 4b * 453
240 Life During Wartime E2 5c * 71
241 Randy's Wall HVS 5a ** 471
242 Magnum Force HVS 5a * 126
243 Springboard
-
E1 5a 8
244 Gunpowder Crack VS 5b ** 847
245 Master Blaster E1 5c * 53
246 Loader's Bay D 400
247 Ammo S 4a 558
248 Long John f6A * 119
249 Three Real Men Dancing f6B+ ** 31
250 Green Chimney D 204
251 Artillery Corner D 571
252 Gangway VD 574
253 Gangway Direct Start S 4b 223
254 Green Parrot f5 * 273
255 A Minah Variation f6A * 22
256 Bosun's Slab M * 675
257 Concave Slab D 660
258 Convex or Perplexed VS 5b 187
259 Adjacent Slab VD 499
260 Adjacent Slab Direct
-
S 4c 117
261 Hypotenuse M * 702
262 Opposite S 4a 702
263 Vertigo HS 4c * 493
264 Armed and Dangerous E4 6a * 14
265 Dynamite Groove HVS 5b 19
266 Funny Side S 4a 77
267 Topside HS 4b * 50
268 Sunny Side S 4a * 291
269 Right Side S 4a 112
270 Slopey Side HVS 5b 52
  Bamford Quarry
272 Bodacious Groove f7A ** 2
273 Long Times HVS 5a  
274 The Big Excellent Adventure E5 6b ** 1
275 No Q VS 5a  

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