Climbs 265
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 407m a.s.l
Faces SW

View Stats

Unknown climbers topping out Bamford edge at sunset. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Bamford Edge consists of a fine series of jutting buttresses in a spectacular situation above the upper reaches of the Derwent Valley and the Ladybower Reservoir. For many years restricted access meant that the edge became something of a backwater, though this changed with the introduction of CROW. The crag is now firmly on the circuit; it can get busy especially on fine summer weekends and is starting to look a little tired in places. The rock is a coarse form of gritstone, the pebbles forming crucial holds on some of the hardest climbs.

Approach notes

A minor road (New Road) runs below the cliff from a point 1km north of the village of Bamford and just south of the Yorkshire Bridge pub. At the top of this is roadside parking for a dozen or more cars by a gate. Cross this then follow the track that heads left rising steadily to Gun Buttress, which is hidden just around the corner, about 15 mins from the road.

Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Bamford Edge (and Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) will be closed for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (2000) during the following dates in 2017:

  • 11th to 26th May
  • 30th and 31st May
  • 1st and 2nd June
  • 5th to 9th June
  • 12th to 14th June

Full details of the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Bamford Edge' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Remember you can't take your dog!
JohnHutch - 24/Sep/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Salmon Boulders
2 Something Silly f6C * 2
3 Something Else f4 * 12
4 Win Hill f4+ 10
5 Lose Hill f6A+ * 16
6 Ping Pong Pocket Rib f7A+ ** 9
7 Flaky Fluster f6B * 7
8 Wriggly Crack f4 * 15
9 Snap f3+ * 20
10 Short Smart Slab Centre
-
V0 9
11 Short Smart Slab Right Arête
-
V0- 8
  Great Tor - Lower Tier
13 Shallow Groove S 4a 26
14 Hasta La Vista HVD 3c 65
15 Back Flip E1 5b * 43
16 Benberry Wall E3 5b 14
17 The Naked Eye E2 5b * 21
18 Bilberry Crack VS 5a ** 1319
19 Recess Crack VD * 647
20 Recess Groove HS 4b 137
21 Jive Bunny
-
E4 5c  
22 Nemmes Sabe HVS 5a ** 135
23 Nemmes Pas Harry E1 5b ** 576
24 Quien Sabe? VS 4c *** 1337
25 Quien Sabe? Eliminate E3 6a 1
26 Brown's Crack HS 4b *** 1913
27 Gasbag/Jetrunner Direct Start E2 5c *  
28 Jetrunner E4 6a ** 276
29 Trout/Salmon Left-Hand E6 6b *** 30
30 The Salmon E7 6c * 1
31 Salmon Direct E6 6c ** 5
32 Smoked Salmon E7 7a * 2
33 Curving Crack VS 4c ** 859
34 Poached Salmon E5 6c * 18
35 Tartar Sauce
-
E5 6b 2
36 Sandy Crack HS 4b * 336
37 Quebec City VS 4c * 45
38 Greydon Boddington HVS 5b * 115
39 Fizz E1 5c * 237
40 Two Real Doleys Scrounging
-
E3 6b  
41 Flake Buttress Rib
-
HS 4b 7
42 Kinked Crack VD 4
43 The Egg E4 6a 10
44 High and Dry E6 6b 5
45 The Chicken
-
HVS 5a  
46 Acid Slab
-
VD 6
47 Assorted Batteries
-
HVS 5a 1
48 Various Undercuts
-
HVS 5a 1
49 Alkaline Arête
-
S 4a 4
  Great Buttress - Upper TIer
51 End Face VS 5b 2
52 WRoEF HS 4c 5
53 WLoEC HVD 4a 12
54 Easy Chimney M 79
55 Palpitation HS 4c 18
56 Thumping HVS 5c 3
57 Thin on Top E2 5b 1
58 Green and Nasty E2 5c 11
59 In My Pocket E1 5b 2
60 In My Pocket Arête
-
V0 8
61 Initiation Wall
-
HVD 4a 7
62 Initiation S 4a 55
63 Introduction Wall HS 4c 5
64 Introduction S 4a 13
65 Beer Matters VS 5a 28
66 Fat Cat VS 5b 13
67 Deep Chimney M 89
68 Gene
-
HS 4b 4
69 Kelly HS 4b * 100
70 Deaf Raspberry Climb E1 5c 4
71 Astronaut's Wall HVS 5b * 117
72 Possibility S 4a * 396
73 Possibility Right-hand Finish S 4a 1
74 Primitive Chimney VD 67
75 Undercut Crack E2 5c ** 56
76 A35 E1 5b 1
77 M35 (A35) E6 6c **  
78 Avoiding the Traitors E7 6c ** 5
79 The Overhang Traverse M 15
80 Bad Wind S 4a 32
81 Claim to Fame HVS 5a 13
82 Terrace Rib VS 4c 77
83 Terrace Wall VS 4b 25
84 Terrace Trog M * 191
85 Missing ASG
-
HVS 5a 2
86 Old Wall HVS 5b * 7
87 Gargoyle Flake VS 4c *** 2065
88 Gargoyle Gully Left D 19
89 Gargoyle Gully Right D 16
90 Gargoyle Gully Right Direct Finish
-
D 9
91 Sunset S 4a 215
92 Beelzebugger HVS 5b 51
Climb name Grade
93 Bum Deal E1 5c * 160
94 Clean, Squeaky and Scented E1 6a 12
95 Hard Rain E2 5c 1
96 Left Wing S 4a 89
97 Almost Granite E1 5b * 17
98 Tinner HVS 5b * 185
99 Right-hand Twin HVS 5a * 348
100 Private Practice E1 5b * 66
101 Solstice Arête VS 4c 83
  Wrinkled Wall Area
103 Klever
-
VS 5b 9
104 Klueless
-
HS 5a 18
105 K'Pow
-
V0 10
106 Kin 'eck
-
S 24
107 You Won't Make Old Bones (Kin'eck Arête) VD 18
108 Kin'eck Hanging Crack V0 12
109 Crystal Tips and Alistair HS 4b 7
110 K'kin
-
HS 4c 15
111 K-PAX HS 4c 8
112 K Prow VD 4
113 The K Kole HS 4b 3
114 Que? Slab D 193
115 Que? Slab Direct/K Buttress Slab Direct D * 447
116 K Buttress Slab VD * 457
117 K Kole Arête f6B+ ** 29
118 KO'd f6B * 13
119 KO'd (with ledge)
-
V2 7
120 K Buttress Crack S 4a ** 122
121 K Buttress Crack Direct S 4c 9
122 Wrong Hand Route E1 5c ** 323
123 Skarlati E2 5b * 52
124 Fern Chimney D 94
125 Tome V2 * 4
126 Bracken Crack VD * 366
127 The Bookend f6B ** 33
128 The Bookend, Sit-start
-
f6C+ 1
129 Bookend Right f6C+ ** 5
130 The Plumber has Landed f6B * 9
131 Down to Earth f6A+ *** 82
132 Vegetated Chimney
-
HVD 1
133 Deb/Crunchy Nuts VS 5a 108
134 Deb f4+ * 9
135 Stoned
-
V2 5b 7
136 Petered Out
-
V0 4c 14
137 Wee Lassie VS 5b 6
138 Special K HVS 5b * 13
139 Dead Mouse Crack HS 4c 42
140 Hanging Crack HS 4b 29
141 Bamboozer f6C * 23
142 Spike f7B *** 12
143 Jasmine E6 6b ** 53
144 Access Account E3 6a * 33
145 Wrinkled Wall VS 4c *** 1665
146 Old and Wrinkled HVS 5a * 263
147 The Crease E1 5a * 986
148 Sinuous Crack VD 316
149 Duff Paddy
-
V4 2
150 Save Dinnomite
-
V4 2
151 Way Rood
-
V0 4
152 Way Rood Arête V1 1
  Neb Buttress
154 Twiglet Wall
-
V2 1
155 Monster Munch
-
V3 1
156 Cleopatra VS 4c 22
157 Samson's Delight VS 4c * 291
158 Dirty Stop Out E2 5c ** 93
159 Delilah HS 4b * 114
160 Delilah Crack
-
V0+ 17
161 Short Curve HVD * 422
162 The Business Boy E1 6a * 18
163 Czech Mate VS 5a 3
164 Snuggazzabug HS 4b 4
165 N.B. Corner D 189
166 Big Ben VS 4b 104
167 Parliament E1 5c * 104
168 Neb Buttress Direct HVS 5a *** 316
169 Auricle E2 5c ** 474
170 Jumping Jack Longland E3 5c * 70
171 Neb Buttress HVS 5a *** 791
172 Neb Buttress/Bamford Rib Combo VS 4c * 4
173 Bamford Rib HVS 5a ** 1066
174 Holly Crack
-
VD 21
175 Bramble Crack VD 124
176 The Happy Wanderer HVS 5a ** 667
177 Reach VS 4c * 582
178 Bamford Wall S 4a ** 2011
179 Bamford Buttress S 4a * 949
180 Busy Day at Bamford VS 5a 113
181 Twin Cracks VS 4b * 224
182 Custard's Last Stand HVS 5b * 5
183 Oracle HS 4b ** 370
184 Deep Cleft M * 207
Climb name Grade
185 Sterling Moss E4 6b * 3
186 Ontos E3 6b ** 51
187 Fatal Inheritance E4 6a 6
188 Purgamentum E4 6b 1
189 Trouble with Lichen HVS 5b ** 102
190 Slanting Slab M 172
191 Grey Days E2 5c 2
192 Three Little Pigs
-
HVD 4a 9
193 Mur
-
V0+ 5b 10
194 Fente
-
V0- 4c 10
195 Cannalure
-
V1 5b 9
  Christmas Buttresses
197 Dream D 53
198 Quince VD 45
199 Snug VD 40
200 Midsummer Madness HS 4b 37
201 Dawn and Dusk S 4b 28
202 The Curse of the Shortening Day S 4b 38
203 Midsummer Wall VD 52
204 Bilberry Arête VD 53
205 Cold Turkey S 4a 32
206 Stuffing VD 36
207 Santa's Pants VD 32
208 Overindulgence Arête HS 4b 35
209 Trogolodyte's Route D 33
210 Christmas Pudding VD 54
211 Christmas Present VD 57
212 Christmas Cracker D 74
213 A Traditional Christmas HS 4b 46
214 Paxo Arête S 4a 46
215 Chestnut Chimney D 56
216 Mistletoe S 4c 53
217 Ivy VD 81
218 Holly VD 84
219 Bellyflop Extravaganza HVD 4a 29
220 Feast of Stephen HS 4c 49
221 Wenceslas D 48
222 Ebenezer S 4c 68
  Porthole Buttress
224 Slab and Crack Arête D 57
225 Slab and Crack D * 350
226 Moglichkeit HS 4b 116
227 Plimsoll Line HVS 5b 69
228 Porthole HVS 5b * 208
229 Portside S 4a 524
230 A Treat for the Gimp HS 4c 36
231 Leaning Slab VD * 635
232 Sloop John B HD 4b 11
233 Trango 2 Left Arête
-
HS 4c 19
234 Trango 2 E3 5c 39
235 Trango 2 Right Arête
-
HS 4b 15
  Gun Buttress
237 Jumping the Gun
-
HS 4b 24
238 Shadow Wall VS 4b * 425
239 Life During Wartime E2 5c * 64
240 Randy's Wall HVS 5a ** 445
241 Magnum Force HVS 5a * 121
242 Springboard
-
E1 5a 8
243 Gunpowder Crack VS 5b ** 796
244 Master Blaster E1 5c * 50
245 Loader's Bay D 372
246 Ammo S 4a 535
247 Long John f6A * 115
248 Three Real Men Dancing f6B+ ** 30
249 Green Chimney D 196
250 Artillery Corner D 535
251 Gangway VD 539
252 Gangway Direct Start S 4b 216
253 Green Parrot f5 * 266
254 A Minah Variation f6A * 21
255 Bosun's Slab M * 636
256 Concave Slab D 631
257 Convex or Perplexed VS 5b 172
258 Adjacent Slab VD 468
259 Adjacent Slab Direct
-
S 4c 115
260 Hypotenuse M * 669
261 Opposite S 4a 663
262 Vertigo HS 4c * 472
263 Armed and Dangerous E4 6a * 12
264 Dynamite Groove HVS 5b 16
265 Funny Side S 4a 73
266 Topside HS 4b * 45
267 Sunny Side S 4a * 281
268 Right Side S 4a 107
269 Slopey Side HVS 5b 48
  Bamford Quarry
271 Bodacious Groove f7A ** 2
272 Long Times HVS 5a  
273 The Big Excellent Adventure E5 6b ** 1
274 No Q VS 5a  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer popebenedictus