Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Approach notes

Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Earl Area 
2The Flat Cap
-
V7 * 
3The Whippet
-
V5 * 
4What a Way to Spend Easterf6C **18
5Dirty Rascalf7A *2
6Dizzie Rascalf5+ *6
7The Little RascalE4 6c *2
8Rascal Groovef7A **23
9Rascal Groove (top out)
-
E1 6b 2
10Rascal Groove sit start
-
V10 1
11Ronnie's Ribf7A * 
12Flake 'n' Blobf4 *26
13The Housebrick ChimneyV0 5
14The Housebrickf6A 14
15Standup Aretef6B **23
16Kodak Lightweight Service Sectorf6C *15
17Fuji Heavy IndustriesV7 *11
18Rail thingf5+ *37
19Pocket Wall Leftf7A *5
20Pocket Wallf6B **22
21Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)
-
V8  
22Pebble CrackHVS 5a *14
23Flat Wall Dynof6C *11
24Footy Ribf5+ 6
25Intensef8A **2
26I'm Tensef7B *3
27Basketball Bulge
-
V3 9
28Black Arete
-
V3 11
29Left Aretef4+ *13
30A Moveable Feastf7B * 
31Snitchf6A+ *11
32Prow CrackS 4b *37
33The Ribf7B+ ***37
34Fat Man's MiseryS 3c *44
35Biscuits in my BeardHVS 5a 1
36Fat Man's Misery AreteV3 5
37Brap Scallionf6C **13
38Impossible Groove
-
? *** 
39Desparetef7B ***44
40No Name CrackVD 4a *90
41No Name WallV1 8
42Clark's Routef5 *16
43Sublime Indifferencef6A **5
44Big Bad WolfE5 6b * 
45Home Cookingf7A **4
46Thick end of the wedgef8A ***1
47Eating Outf6C **14
48Chockstone LaybackHVD 4a 49
49Green S-Groovef6A *5
50Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 3
51Left Edgef6A **22
52Triangle Wall sit start
-
V5 11
53Triangle Wallf7A ***49
54Tripletf6A+ * 
55Triangle Wall Layback
-
V4 23
56Triangle Ribf5+ 17
57Sweet Aretef6A+ *8
58Sweet Arete Chimney
-
VD 3
59Sweet Arete Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
60The Wrestlef6B 1
61Little Pig (Main Crag)S 4b 16
62The Alliancef7A ***97
63The Alliance Sit Start
-
f7B **4
64The Alliance Boulder
-
V4 1
65Friar's WallVS 4c 76
66DominicanHVD 4b 62
67Guppy Left
-
V1 34
68Guppy Aretef5+ *10
69Classic Arete Problemf6C **45
70Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 4
71SlantsideM 43
72Renobulous BongetlE5 6a 3
73Short CrackHVD 4a 41
74BreathlessHVS 5b 19
75Breathless Start
-
V2 4
76Lens CrackS 4a 56
77Lens Arete
-
V2 7
78Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 18
79Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
 Split Nose 
81Split Nose LeftVS 4c 2
82Split NoseHVS 5a *21
83The GnatE1 5c *5
84MidgeE2 6a *6
85KlegHVS 5b 4
86Every Man's MiseryVS 5a *69
87TriglyphVS 4c *63
88The Notorious BLGE7 6c *2
89Abu SimbelD 50
90Heidi BooE2 5c 3
91This LifeVD 8
92Bobby DazzlerE4 6a  
93The ConnectionHVD 4a 12
94The Thistle FunnelVD 4a 68
 Roof Route 
96Chimney RouteVD 31
97StampedeE8 6c * 
98Simbas PrideE8 6b ***32
99Black OutE9 6c *** 
100Roof RouteVS 4c **435
101Daz UltraE4 6a 7
102Gable RouteVS 4c **221
103Rombald's StaircaseM *81
104The GutterHVS 5b 17
105Press OnE2 6a 6
 The Boggart and Byne's Crack 
107Mad LlehctimE3 6b *27
108Lethargic AreteS 4a *78
109Charlie's CrackHVS 5b **131
110Life AssuranceE6 6b **133
111Tower ClimbHS 4c *98
112Tower CrackHVS 5a **88
113Balance It IsE7 6c ***53
114Boggart Left-handE4 6a *64
115BoggartE2 6b **80
116Ridikulusf6C 1
117Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
118EquilibriumE10 7a ***2
119Stasisf7B+ ** 
120Tower ChimneyVD *63
 The keep 
122Byne's FlakeVD 6
123Dynamics Of ChangeE9 7a ** 
124Braille TrailE7 6c ***6
125Grandad's SlabE7 6c *** 
126Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 2
127Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
128Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)
-
E9 6c ***2
129Parthian ShotE10 6c *** 
130Brooks' CrackHVS 5a ***213
131Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 3
132Byne's CrackVS 4b ***523
133Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
134The Kursk
-
V5 7
135The SearingE3 6a *2
136Back Down UnderE6 6c * 
137Ron, Ring Home!E5 6c * 
138The KnockE4 6a ***257
139Keep CrackHVS 5a *15
140Keep Rib
-
V0+ 4
141Who's There? Titan's GrandmaE3 6b 1
142Wow!E4 6b  
143Fallen Block Sloper
-
V8  
144Lip Barmyf7B+ ** 
 Dowel Crack 
146Captain SensibleE1 5b *37
147Bath House PinkE4 6c 2
148Fast Ledgef6B *2
149Slow LedgeVS 4c 12
150MagogHVS 5b 2
151GogHS 4c *14
152Gog Aretef4+ **46
153Ladder Ribf6A+ **25
154Ladder Rib Right
-
f6A+ 37
155Ladder GullyD 88
156Connolly's VariationD 26
157Recurring NightmareE5 6b *20
158Macleod's CrackHVD 4a 94
159Lapwing VariationS 4a 1
160CrikeyE5 6a *3
161Fade AwayE1 6a 7
162Dowel CrackHVS 5a *43
163The Iron HandS 4b 82
164VulcanHVD 4a 43
165PolluxHS 4c 10
166CastorHS 4b 9
167Movie StarE1 5b *21
168SurpriseS 4a 23
169PythagorasHS 4b 17
170Shooting StarHVS 5b 2
171Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
172Pigs make nestsf7C **3
173Pigs Make Nests Sit Startf7C+ 1
174High Aretef5+ * 
175Life of Pief7C * 
176Pockets 'n' Stufff5+ * 
177More Cheese Gromitf7A **5
178Rock Bottomf6B *35
179Definitive 5.11f6C+ *20
180The Grazerf6C+ **18
181Iain's roof (strict)f7A *20
182Sitting Duckf6B **113
183Little Earf3+ 2
184Solsticef5 2
185Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Assf6B *3
186Index ArÍteS 2
187The Big DipperS 4a 20
 Nosferatu area 
189SorbE2 5c **110
190NosferatuE6 6b ***233
191ReginaldVS 4b *85
192Bad Attitudef6C **91
193The Attitude Inspectorf7A ***187
194NathanielHVS 5b *28
195The Neckf7B * 
196The KnackE1 5c *86
197The Knack Sit-startf6B * 
198Old MacDonaldf7A *3
199Nick Knack PaddywackE2 6b 10
200Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Startf7A *8
201Bright EyesV7 ***2
202Less BentS 4a 76
203Less Bent (direct finish)
-
VS 3
204Zig-zagVS 4c *62
205No ZagE1 5b *182
206Gib's Ribf7A ***21
207Unfinished SymphonyHVS 5b *17
208Ribbed CornerD 95
209Left BannisterHS 4a 58
210The StaircaseS 4a *452
211Confidence of YouthE3 6a 14
212The DrainpipeHS 4b **321
213Booby PrizeE3 6b 1
214Parson's CrackHS 4b *48
215Electrical Stormf7B ***112
216Grease Lightningf7B+ ** 
217Walker's PulpitHVD 4a 64
 oak grove boulders 
219Scratcher Sitdownf6B *16
220Little Artlessf7A+ *5
221Birch Tree Aretef6A+ **31
222Right Wall
-
V0+ 8
223Big Block Wallf6B *16
224Jason's Mantelf7A **6
225Your Basic Mantelf6C *35
226Curving Crimpsf6B *40
227Oak Tree Aretef6B *40
228Block Layback
-
V0 35
2297 Ballf6C ***187
230Middle Wallf4+ **70
231Corner Pocketf6B *32
232Corner Pocket (low start)
-
V5 9
233Gentle Slabf3 33
234Gentle Ribf4 *79
235Gentle Rib sit start
-
V1 49
236The Reach
-
V5 9
237Matterhorn Left Aretef4 32
238Matterhorn Leftf5 *110
239Central Groove Thingf5+ **119
240Matterhorn Slabf3+ **11
241Right Matterhornf3+ *119
242Green Arete
-
V0 24
243Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 6
 Pebble Mill 
245Rockfax Fax09 P29V0- 5
246Little Limmockf6B **18
247Broddle's Babyf6C **5
248Trapped In Crows' Crawsf7A+ *2
249DoddleM 5
250BroddleVS 4c 133
251LimmockHVS 5b *125
252LinoHVS 5a 18
253The Birth of Liquid DesiresHVS 5a 18
254WazzockS 4a *142
255Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
256Pebble MillE5 6b ***163
257Pepper Millf6C+ **21
258Pebble Mill Traversef7A+ **46
259Pebble Mill Stemf7A *** 
260Pepper Linkup
-
V9 1
261We Ain't Gonna Pay No TollE5 6b **7
262We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll startf6B **4
263Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
264Micro Millf4+ 11
265Dork ChildE1 5c *32
266Dork Child Startf5+ **10
267Dork Walkf5+ 3
268Dork Slabf5 6
269The Dorkf5+ 4
270Goblin
-
D 17
271The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 7
272Voltaire CornerS 4
 David and Goliath 
274Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrierf7A ***12
275Above and Beyond... Directf7A+ *** 
276Samsonf8A ***1
277GoliathE4 6a ***140
278Goliath Traverse
-
V4 2
279DavidHVS 4c ***266
280David Traverse
-
f7A *16
281Sling Shot (Burbage South)HVS 5b *27
282MessiahE7 6c ***2
283Messiah Traversef7A **12
284Rollerwallf7C **8
285SaulVS 5b *122
 Unknown Routes and Problems 
287Quarry GullyD 2
288The flake corner start
-
VD 2

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