Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Approach notes

Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Earl Area
2 The Flat Cap
-
V7 6b *  
3 The Whippet
-
V5 6b *  
4 What a Way to Spend Easter f6C ** 21
5 Dirty Rascal f7A * 2
6 Dizzie Rascal f5+ * 7
7 The Little Rascal E4 6c * 2
8 Rascal Groove f7A ** 23
9 Rascal Groove (top out)
-
E1 6b 2
10 Rascal Groove sit start
-
V10 7a 2
11 Ronnie's Rib f7A *  
12 Flake 'n' Blob f4 * 27
13 The Housebrick Chimney V0 5
14 The Housebrick f6A 17
15 Standup Arete f6B ** 27
16 Kodak Lightweight Service Sector f6C * 15
17 Fuji Heavy Industries V7 6c * 11
18 Rail thing f5+ * 39
19 Pocket Wall Left f7A * 5
20 Pocket Wall f6B ** 23
21 Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)
-
V8  
22 Pebble Crack HVS 5a * 16
23 Flat Wall Dyno f6C * 11
24 Footy Rib f5+ 6
25 Intense f8A ** 3
26 Heavy Sky f8A+ *** 1
27 I'm Tense f7B * 3
28 Basketball Bulge
-
V3 6a 9
29 Black Arete
-
V3 6a 11
30 Left Arete f4+ * 14
31 A Moveable Feast f7B *  
32 Snitch f6A+ * 12
33 Prow Crack S 4b * 38
34 The Rib f7B+ *** 29
35 Fat Man's Misery S 3c * 46
36 Biscuits in my Beard HVS 5a 1
37 Fat Man's Misery Arete V3 6a 5
38 Brap Scallion f6C ** 15
39 Impossible Groove ? ***  
40 Desparete f7B *** 30
41 No Name Crack VD 4a * 94
42 No Name Wall V1 5c 10
43 Clark's Route f5 * 17
44 Sublime Indifference f6A ** 6
45 Big Bad Wolf E5 6b *  
46 Home Cooking f7A ** 2
47 Thick end of the wedge f8A *** 3
48 Eating Out f6C ** 14
49 Chockstone Layback HVD 4a 55
50 Green S-Groove f6A * 6
51 Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 5b 3
52 Left Edge f6A ** 25
53 Triangle Wall sit start
-
V5 6b 11
54 Triangle Wall f7A *** 42
55 Triplet f6A+ * 4
56 Triangle Wall Layback
-
V4 6b 23
57 Triangle Rib f5+ 20
58 Sweet Arete f6A+ * 9
59 Sweet Arete Chimney
-
VD 3
60 Sweet Arete Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
61 The Wrestle f6B 1
62 Little Pig (Main Crag) S 4b 17
63 The Alliance f7A *** 72
64 The Alliance Sit Start
-
f7B ** 5
65 The Alliance Boulder
-
V4 6b 1
66 Friar's Wall VS 4c 80
67 Dominican HVD 4b 65
68 Guppy Left
-
V1 5c 36
69 Guppy Arete f5+ * 11
70 Classic Arete Problem f6C ** 47
71 Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 6b 4
72 Slantside M 51
73 Renobulous Bongetl E5 6a 3
74 Short Crack HVD 4a 44
75 Breathless HVS 5b 19
76 Breathless Start
-
V2 6a 4
77 Lens Crack S 4a 57
78 Lens Arete
-
V2 5c 7
79 Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 19
80 Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
  Split Nose
82 Split Nose Left VS 4c 2
83 Split Nose HVS 5a * 22
84 The Gnat E1 5c * 5
85 Midge E2 6a * 7
86 Kleg HVS 5b 4
87 Every Man's Misery VS 5a * 55
88 Triglyph VS 4c * 63
89 The Notorious BLG E7 6c * 2
90 Abu Simbel D 53
91 Heidi Boo E2 5c 3
92 This Life VD 9
93 Bobby Dazzler E4 6a  
94 The Connection HVD 4a 13
95 The Thistle Funnel VD 4a 72
  Roof Route
97 Chimney Route VD 31
98 Stampede E8 6c *  
99 Simbas Pride E8 6b *** 12
100 Black Out E9 6c ***  
101 Roof Route VS 4c ** 456
102 Daz Ultra E4 6a 6
103 Gable Route VS 4c ** 230
104 Rombald's Staircase M * 90
105 The Gutter HVS 5b 17
106 Press On E2 6a 6
  The Boggart and Byne's Crack
108 Mad Llehctim E3 6b * 25
109 Lethargic Arete S 4a * 82
110 Charlie's Crack HVS 5b ** 131
111 Life Assurance E6 6b ** 86
112 Tower Climb HS 4c * 106
113 Tower Crack HVS 5a ** 98
114 Balance It Is E7 6c *** 14
115 Boggart Left-hand E4 6a * 58
116 Boggart E2 6b ** 64
117 Ridikulus f6C 6b 1
118 Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
119 Equilibrium E10 7a *** 2
120 Stasis f7B+ **  
121 Tower Chimney VD * 69
  The keep
123 Byne's Flake VD 6
124 Dynamics Of Change E9 7a **  
125 Braille Trail E7 6c *** 7
126 Grandad's Slab E7 6c ***  
127 Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 2
128 Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
129 Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)
-
E9 6c *** 2
130 Parthian Shot E10 6c ***  
131 Brooks' Crack HVS 5a *** 180
132 Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 5
133 Byne's Crack VS 4b *** 552
134 Below Byne's Crack f6A * 1
135 Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
136 The Kursk
-
V5 5b 11
137 The Searing E3 6a * 2
138 Back Down Under E6 6c *  
139 Ron, Ring Home! E5 6c *  
140 The Knock E4 6a *** 257
141 Keep Crack HVS 5a * 12
142 Keep Rib
-
V0+ 5b 4
143 Who's There? Titan's Grandma E3 6b 1
144 Wow! E4 6b  
145 Fallen Block Sloper
-
V8 6c  
146 Lip Barmy f7B+ **  
  Dowel Crack
148 Captain Sensible E1 5b * 37
149 Bath House Pink E4 6c 2
150 Fast Ledge f6B * 2
151 Slow Ledge VS 4c 13
152 Magog HVS 5b 2
153 Gog HS 4c * 16
154 Gog Arete f4+ ** 50
155 Ladder Rib f6A+ ** 28
156 Ladder Rib Right
-
f6A+ 39
157 Ladder Gully D 90
158 Connolly's Variation D 30
159 Recurring Nightmare E5 6b * 14
160 Macleod's Crack HVD 4a 100
161 Lapwing Variation S 4a 4
162 Crikey E5 6a * 3
163 Fade Away E1 6a 7
164 Dowel Crack HVS 5a * 45
165 The Iron Hand S 4b 83
166 Vulcan HVD 4a 46
167 Pollux HS 4c 10
168 Castor HS 4b 9
169 Movie Star E1 5b * 21
170 Surprise S 4a 26
171 Pythagoras HS 4b 17
172 Shooting Star HVS 5b 2
173 Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
174 Pigs make nests f7C ** 2
175 Pigs Make Nests Sit Start f7C+ 1
176 High Arete f5+ *  
177 Life of Pie f7C *  
178 Pockets 'n' Stuff f5+ *  
179 More Cheese Gromit f7A ** 5
180 Rock Bottom f6B * 37
181 Definitive 5.11 f6C+ * 22
182 The Grazer f6C+ ** 18
183 Iain's roof (strict) f7A * 20
184 Sitting Duck f6B ** 119
185 Little Ear f3+ 2
186 Solstice f5 2
187 Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Ass f6B * 3
188 Index ArĂȘte S 2
189 The Big Dipper S 4a 21
  Nosferatu area
191 Sorb E2 5c ** 114
192 Nosferatu E6 6b *** 241
193 Reginald VS 4b * 85
194 Bad Attitude f6C ** 89
195 The Attitude Inspector f7A *** 205
196 Nathaniel HVS 5b * 27
197 The Neck f7B *  
198 The Knack E1 5c * 83
199 The Knack Sit-start f6B *  
200 Old MacDonald f7A * 3
201 Nick Knack Paddywack E2 6b 10
202 Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Start f7A * 8
203 Bright Eyes V7 6c *** 2
204 Less Bent S 4a 77
205 Less Bent (direct finish)
-
VS 3
206 Zig-zag VS 4c * 60
207 No Zag E1 5b * 191
208 Gib's Rib f7A *** 17
209 Unfinished Symphony HVS 5b * 16
210 Ribbed Corner D 102
211 Left Bannister HS 4a 62
212 The Staircase S 4a * 479
213 Confidence of Youth E3 6a 10
214 The Drainpipe HS 4b ** 330
215 Booby Prize E3 6b 1
216 Parson's Crack HS 4b * 55
217 Electrical Storm f7B *** 82
218 Grease Lightning f7B+ **  
219 Walker's Pulpit HVD 4a 73
  oak grove boulders
221 Scratcher Sitdown f6B * 16
222 Little Artless f7A+ * 5
223 Birch Tree Arete f6A+ ** 31
224 Right Wall
-
V0+ 5b 8
225 Big Block Wall f6B * 17
226 Jason's Mantel f7A ** 6
227 Your Basic Mantel f6C * 36
228 Curving Crimps f6B * 45
229 Oak Tree Arete f6B * 40
230 Block Layback
-
V0 4c 39
231 7 Ball f6C *** 198
232 Middle Wall f4+ ** 75
233 Corner Pocket f6B * 33
234 Corner Pocket (low start)
-
V5 6b 10
235 Gentle Slab f3 37
236 Gentle Rib f4 * 86
237 Gentle Rib sit start
-
V1 5b 50
238 The Reach
-
V5 6b 9
239 Matterhorn Left Arete f4 36
240 Matterhorn Left f5 * 118
241 Central Groove Thing f5+ ** 126
242 Matterhorn Slab f3+ ** 20
243 Right Matterhorn f3+ * 130
244 Green Arete
-
V0 5a 25
245 Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 5c 6
  Pebble Mill
247 Rockfax Fax09 P29 V0- 4c 5
248 Little Limmock f6B ** 18
249 Broddle's Baby f6C ** 5
250 Trapped In Crows' Craws f7A+ * 3
251 Doddle M 5
252 Broddle VS 4c 132
253 Limmock HVS 5b * 122
254 Lino HVS 5a 18
255 Wenger Out f6C 1
256 The Birth of Liquid Desires HVS 5a 18
257 Wazzock S 4a * 145
258 Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
259 Pebble Mill E5 6b *** 171
260 Pepper Mill f6C+ ** 21
261 Pebble Mill Traverse f7A+ ** 44
262 Pebble Mill Stem f7A ***  
263 Pepper Linkup
-
V9 6c 1
264 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll E5 6b ** 8
265 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll start f6B ** 4
266 Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
267 Micro Mill f4+ 12
268 Dork Child E1 5c * 32
269 Dork Child Start f5+ ** 10
270 Dork Walk f5+ 3
271 Dork Slab f5 6
272 The Dork f5+ 4
273 Goblin
-
D 18
274 The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 7
275 Voltaire Corner S 4
  David and Goliath
277 Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier f7A *** 13
278 Above and Beyond... Direct f7A+ ***  
279 Samson f8A *** 1
280 Goliath E4 6a *** 78
281 Goliath Traverse
-
V4 6a 2
282 David HVS 4c *** 277
283 David Traverse
-
f7A * 16
284 Sling Shot (Burbage South) HVS 5b * 28
285 Messiah E7 6c *** 19
286 Messiah Traverse f7A ** 12
287 Rollerwall f7C ** 8
288 Saul VS 5b * 118
  Awaiting Moderation or Unknown Routes and Problems
290 Quarry Gully D 2
291 The flake corner start
-
VD 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond