Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Approach notes

Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Earl Area
2 The Flat Cap
-
V7 6b *  
3 The Whippet
-
V5 6b *  
4 What a Way to Spend Easter f6C ** 20
5 Dirty Rascal f7A * 2
6 Dizzie Rascal f5+ * 7
7 The Little Rascal E4 6c * 3
8 Rascal Groove f7A ** 26
9 Rascal Groove (top out)
-
E1 6b 2
10 Rascal Groove sit start
-
V10 7a 2
11 Ronnie's Rib f7A *  
12 Flake 'n' Blob f4 * 27
13 The Housebrick Chimney V0 5
14 The Housebrick f6A 18
15 Standup Arete f6B ** 30
16 Kodak Lightweight Service Sector f6C * 16
17 Fuji Heavy Industries V7 6c * 14
18 Rail thing f5+ * 42
19 Pocket Wall Left f7A * 7
20 Pocket Wall f6B ** 26
21 Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)
-
V8  
22 Pebble Crack HVS 5a * 19
23 Flat Wall Dyno f6C * 11
24 Footy Rib f5+ 6
25 Intense f8A ** 3
26 Heavy Sky f8A+ *** 1
27 I'm Tense f7B * 3
28 Basketball Bulge
-
V3 6a 10
29 Black Arete
-
V3 6a 12
30 Left Arete f4+ * 15
31 A Moveable Feast f7B *  
32 Snitch f6A+ * 13
33 Prow Crack S 4b * 42
34 The Rib f7B+ *** 43
35 Fat Man's Misery S 3c * 52
36 Biscuits in my Beard HVS 5a  
37 Fat Man's Misery Arete V3 6a 5
38 Brap Scallion f6C ** 19
39 Impossible Groove
-
? ***  
40 Desparete f7B *** 40
41 No Name Crack VD 4a * 110
42 No Name Wall V1 5c 10
43 Clark's Route f5 * 18
44 Sublime Indifference f6A ** 6
45 Big Bad Wolf E5 6b * 1
46 Home Cooking f7A ** 6
47 Thick end of the wedge f8A *** 5
48 Eating Out f6C ** 16
49 Chockstone Layback HVD 4a 59
50 Green S-Groove f6A * 6
51 Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 5b 3
52 Left Edge f6A ** 35
53 Triangle Wall sit start
-
V5 6b 13
54 Triangle Wall f7A *** 58
55 Triplet f6A+ * 11
56 Triangle Wall Layback
-
V4 6b 23
57 Triangle Rib f5+ 22
58 Sweet Arete f6A+ * 10
59 Sweet Arete Chimney
-
VD 5
60 Sweet Arete Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
61 The Wrestle f6B 1
62 Little Pig (Main Crag) S 4b 18
63 The Alliance f7A *** 86
64 The Alliance Sit Start
-
f7B ** 10
65 The Alliance Boulder
-
V4 6b 1
66 Friar's Wall VS 4c 86
67 Dominican HVD 4b 72
68 Guppy Left
-
V1 5c 40
69 Guppy Arete f5+ * 14
70 Classic Arete Problem f6C ** 57
71 Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 6b 7
72 Slantside M 57
73 Renobulous Bongetl E5 6a 3
74 Short Crack HVD 4a 50
75 Breathless HVS 5b 20
76 Breathless Start
-
V2 6a 4
77 Lens Crack S 4a 64
78 Lens Arete
-
V2 5c 7
79 Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 19
80 Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
  Split Nose
82 Split Nose Left VS 4c 5
83 Split Nose HVS 5a * 24
84 The Gnat E1 5c * 6
85 Midge E2 6a * 10
86 Kleg HVS 5b 4
87 Every Man's Misery VS 5a * 63
88 Triglyph VS 4c * 65
89 The Notorious BLG E7 6c * 3
90 Abu Simbel D 59
91 Heidi Boo E2 5c 3
92 This Life VD 10
93 Bobby Dazzler E4 6a  
94 The Connection HVD 4a 14
95 The Thistle Funnel VD 4a 78
  Roof Route
97 Chimney Route VD 35
98 Stampede E8 6c *  
Climb name Grade
99 Simbas Pride E8 6b *** 16
100 Black Out E9 6c ***  
101 Roof Route VS 4c ** 470
102 Daz Ultra E4 6a 6
103 Gable Route VS 4c ** 235
104 Rombald's Staircase Inside Route D 2
105 Rombald's Staircase M * 97
106 The Gutter HVS 5b 17
107 Press On E2 6a 6
  The Boggart and Byne's Crack
109 Mad Llehctim E3 6b * 26
110 Lethargic Arete S 4a * 85
111 Charlie's Crack HVS 5b ** 141
112 Life Assurance E6 6b ** 90
113 Tower Climb HS 4c * 115
114 Tower Crack HVS 5a ** 107
115 Balance It Is E7 6c *** 18
116 Boggart Left-hand E4 6a * 60
117 Boggart E2 6b ** 71
118 Ridikulus f6C 6b 1
119 Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
120 Equilibrium E10 7a *** 2
121 Stasis f7B+ **  
122 Tower Chimney VD * 76
  The keep
124 Byne's Flake VD 7
125 Dynamics Of Change E9 7a **  
126 Braille Trail E7 6c *** 11
127 Grandad's Slab E7 6c ***  
128 Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 2
129 Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
130 Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)
-
E9 6c *** 2
131 Parthian Shot E10 6c ***  
132 Brooks' Crack HVS 5a *** 206
133 Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 5
134 Byne's Crack VS 4b *** 583
135 Below Byne's Crack f6A * 1
136 Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
137 The Kursk
-
V5 5b 9
138 The Searing E3 6a * 2
139 Back Down Under E6 6c *  
140 Ron, Ring Home! E5 6c *  
141 The Knock E4 6a *** 195
142 Keep Crack HVS 5a * 12
143 Keep Rib
-
V0+ 5b 4
144 Who's There? Titan's Grandma E3 6b 1
145 Wow! E4 6b  
146 Fallen Block Sloper
-
V8 6c  
147 Lip Barmy f7B+ **  
  Dowel Crack
149 Captain Sensible E1 5b * 40
150 Bath House Pink E4 6c 5
151 Fast Ledge f6B * 3
152 Slow Ledge VS 4c 14
153 Magog HVS 5b 3
154 Gog HS 4c * 17
155 Gog Arete f4+ ** 53
156 Ladder Rib f6A+ ** 32
157 Ladder Rib Right
-
f6A+ 44
158 Ladder Gully D 97
159 Connolly's Variation D 31
160 Recurring Nightmare E5 6b * 16
161 Macleod's Crack HVD 4a 107
162 Lapwing Variation S 4a 4
163 Crikey E5 6a * 3
164 Fade Away E1 6a 7
165 Dowel Crack HVS 5a * 48
166 The Iron Hand S 4b 87
167 Vulcan HVD 4a 51
168 Pollux HS 4c 12
169 Castor HS 4b 10
170 Movie Star E1 5b * 24
171 Surprise S 4a 31
172 Pythagoras HS 4b 18
173 Shooting Star HVS 5b 2
174 Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
175 Pigs make nests f7C ** 6
176 Pigs Make Nests Sit Start f7C+ 1
177 High Arete f5+ * 1
178 Life of Pie f7C *  
179 Pockets 'n' Stuff f5+ * 1
180 More Cheese Gromit f7A ** 29
181 Rock Bottom f6B * 45
182 Definitive 5.11 f6C+ * 15
183 The Grazer f6C+ ** 22
184 Iain's roof (strict) f7A * 20
185 Sitting Duck f6B ** 134
186 Little Ear f3+ 2
187 Solstice f5 2
188 Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Ass f6B * 3
189 Index ArĂȘte S 3
190 The Big Dipper S 4a 23
  Nosferatu area
192 Sorb E2 5c ** 108
193 Nosferatu E6 6b *** 175
194 Reginald VS 4b * 105
195 Bad Attitude f6C ** 100
196 The Attitude Inspector f7A *** 223
Climb name Grade
197 Nathaniel HVS 5b * 29
198 The Neck f7B *  
199 The Knack E1 5c * 87
200 The Knack Sit-start f6B * 2
201 Old MacDonald f7A * 3
202 Nick Knack Paddywack E2 6b 10
203 Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Start f7A * 10
204 Bright Eyes V7 6c *** 3
205 Less Bent S 4a 80
206 Less Bent (direct finish)
-
VS 3
207 Zig-zag VS 4c * 64
208 No Zag E1 5b * 197
209 Gib's Rib f7A *** 22
210 Unfinished Symphony HVS 5b * 19
211 Ribbed Corner D 103
212 Left Bannister HS 4a 70
213 The Staircase S 4a * 519
214 Confidence of Youth E3 6a 10
215 The Drainpipe HS 4b ** 380
216 Booby Prize E3 6b 1
217 Parson's Crack HS 4b * 56
218 Electrical Storm f7B *** 107
219 Grease Lightning f7B+ **  
220 Walker's Pulpit HVD 4a 73
221 Definitive Burlesque * f7B **  
  oak grove boulders
223 Scratcher Sitdown f6B * 16
224 Little Artless f7A+ * 5
225 Birch Tree Arete f6A+ ** 36
226 Right Wall
-
V0+ 5b 8
227 Big Block Wall f6B * 18
228 Jason's Mantel f7A ** 9
229 Your Basic Mantel f6C * 42
230 Curving Crimps f6B * 59
231 Oak Tree Arete f6B * 49
232 Block Layback
-
V0 4c 41
233 7 Ball f6C *** 198
234 Middle Wall f4+ ** 89
235 Corner Pocket f6B * 37
236 Corner Pocket (low start)
-
V5 6b 11
237 Gentle Slab f3 47
238 Gentle Rib f4 * 102
239 Gentle Rib sit start
-
V1 5b 60
240 The Reach
-
V5 6b 9
241 Matterhorn Left Arete f4 53
242 Matterhorn Left f5 * 142
243 Central Groove Thing f5+ ** 159
244 Matterhorn Slab f3+ ** 51
245 Right Matterhorn f3+ * 156
246 Green Arete
-
V0 5a 27
247 Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 5c 6
  Pebble Mill
249 Rockfax Fax09 P29 V0- 4c 5
250 Little Limmock f6B ** 19
251 Broddle's Baby f6C ** 6
252 Trapped In Crows' Craws f7A+ * 3
253 Trapped in Crows' Craws Right-Hand f7A 1
254 Doddle M 5
255 Broddle VS 4c 140
256 Limmock HVS 5b * 127
257 Lino HVS 5a 18
258 Wenger Out f6C 2
259 The Birth of Liquid Desires HVS 5a 19
260 Wazzock S 4a * 165
261 Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
262 Pebble Mill E5 6b *** 125
263 Pepper Mill (Start) f6C+ ** 27
264 Pebble Mill Traverse f7A+ ** 50
265 Pebble Mill Stem f7A ***  
266 Pepper Linkup
-
V9 6c 1
267 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll E5 6b ** 8
268 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll start f6B ** 11
269 Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
270 Micro Mill f4+ 13
271 Dork Child E1 5c * 34
272 Dork Child Start f5+ ** 11
273 Dork Walk f5+ 3
274 Dork Slab f5 7
275 The Dork f5+ 4
276 Goblin
-
D 19
277 The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 7
278 Voltaire Corner S 4
  David and Goliath
280 Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier f7A *** 14
281 Above and Beyond... Direct f7A+ ***  
282 Samson f8A *** 2
283 Goliath E4 6a *** 90
284 Goliath Traverse
-
V4 6a 3
285 David HVS 4c *** 266
286 David Traverse
-
f7A * 16
287 Sling Shot (Burbage South) HVS 5b * 22
288 Messiah E7 6c *** 6
289 Messiah Traverse f7A ** 14
290 Rollerwall f7C ** 10
291 Saul VS 5b * 129
  Awaiting Moderation or Unknown Routes and Problems
293 Quarry Gully D 3
294 The flake corner start
-
VD 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond