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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 275
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Burbage South has never really been as popular as its northern twin. While its shady aspect and greenness don't help, its popularity has been limited by the uncompromising appearance of its buttresses, which lack the lower grade classics that pepper most of the other edges in the area. It is something of a surprising fact that Burbage South is home to several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest trad challenges anywhere. Don't be put off though, in amongst all the big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range as long as you choose a dry spell to visit. Summer shade is an added attraction on the hottest days of the year, as is evening sunshine on cooler summer evenings.

Approach notes

The best approach is from the Fox House end of the valley. There is parking on the grass verge on the roadside 200m uphill from the entrance to the pub car park. A stile allows you to cross the wall and leads straight across the moor (splodgy after rain) for 550m to reach the cliff-top path above the quarries. The rest of the crag is to the right (northeast) from here.

Green Drive - There is a very limited parking spot (about 5 cars) at the end of the main valley path. Walk up the Green Drive and head rightwards up the hill to reach the quarries.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Earl Area
2 The Flat Cap
-
V7 *  
3 The Whippet
-
V5 *  
4 What a Way to Spend Easter f6C ** 30
5 Dirty Rascal f7A * 2
6 Dizzie Rascal f5+ * 7
7 The Little Rascal E4 6c * 4
8 Rascal Groove f7A ** 30
9 Rascal Groove Sit-start
-
V10 2
10 Ronnie's Rib f7A *  
11 Flake 'n' Blob f4 * 27
12 The Housebrick Chimney V0 5
13 The Housebrick f6A 19
14 Kodak Lightweight Service Sector f6C * 19
15 Standup Arête f6B ** 37
16 Fuji Heavy Industries V7 * 17
17 Rail Thing f5+ * 49
18 Pocket Wall Left f7A * 7
19 Pocket Wall f6B ** 34
20 Pocket Wall Sit-start
-
V8  
21 Pebble Crack HVS 5a * 21
22 Flat Wall Dyno f6C * 13
23 Footy Rib f5+ 7
24 I'm Tense f7B * 3
25 Intense f8A ** 3
26 Heavy Sky f8A+ *** 1
27 Basketball Bulge
-
V3 10
28 Black Arête
-
V3 12
29 Left Arête f4+ * 17
30 A Moveable Feast f7B *  
31 Snitch f6A+ * 13
32 Prow Crack S 4b * 43
33 The Rib f7B+ *** 52
34 Fat Man's Misery S 3c * 56
35 Biscuits in my Beard HVS 5a  
36 Brap Scallion f6C ** 36
37 Impossible Groove
-
? ***  
38 Desparête f7B *** 51
39 No Name Crack VD 4a * 113
40 No Name Wall V1 10
41 Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 5b 4
42 Left Edge f6A ** 46
43 Triangle Wall f7A *** 80
44 Triplet f6A+ * 45
45 Triangle Rib f5+ 26
46 Clark's Route f5 * 18
47 Sublime Indifference f6A ** 7
48 Big Bad Wolf E5 6b * 1
49 Home Cooking f7A ** 9
50 Thick End of the Wedge f8A *** 10
51 Eating Out f6C ** 25
52 Chockstone Layback HVD 4a 64
53 Green S-Groove f6A * 8
54 Sweet Arête f6A+ * 11
55 Sweet Arête Chimney
-
VD 5
56 Sweet Arête Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
57 The Wrestle f6B 1
58 Little Pig S 4b 22
59 The Alliance f7A *** 103
60 The Alliance Sit-start
-
f7B+ ** 12
61 Friar's Wall VS 4c 91
62 Dominican HVD 4b 75
63 Guppy Left
-
V1 40
64 Guppy Arête f5+ * 16
65 Classic Arête f6C ** 67
66 Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 7
67 Slantside M 63
68 Short Crack HVD 4a 53
69 Renobulous Bongetl E5 6a 3
70 Breathless HVS 5b 20
71 Breathless Start
-
V2 4
72 Lens Crack S 4a 70
73 Lens Arête
-
V2 7
74 Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 20
75 Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
  Split Nose
77 Split Nose Left VS 4c 5
78 Split Nose HVS 5a * 25
79 The Gnat E1 5c * 6
80 Midge E2 6a * 10
81 Kleg HVS 5b 4
82 The Notorious BLG E7 6c * 3
83 Every Man's Misery VS 5a * 66
84 Triglyph VS 4c * 69
85 This Life VD 10
86 Heidi Boo E2 5c 3
87 Abu Simbel D 62
88 Bobby Dazzler E4 6a  
89 The Connection HVD 4a 15
90 The Thistle Funnel VD 4a 80
  Roof Route
92 Chimney Route VD 39
93 Stampede E8 6c *  
94 Simbas Pride E8 6b *** 17
95 Black Out E9 6c ***  
Climb name Grade
96 Roof Route VS 4c ** 505
97 Daz Ultra E4 6a 7
98 Gable Route VS 4c ** 247
99 Rombald's Staircase M * 115
100 The Gutter HVS 5b 18
101 Press On E2 6a 7
  The Boggart and Byne's Crack
103 Mad Llehctim E3 6b * 28
104 Lethargic Arête S 4a * 92
105 Charlie's Crack HVS 5b ** 150
106 Life Assurance E6 6b ** 100
107 Tower Climb HS 4c * 124
108 Tower Crack HVS 5a ** 123
109 Balance It Is E7 6c *** 19
110 Boggart Left-hand E4 6a * 70
111 Boggart E2 6b ** 83
112 Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
113 Equilibrium E10 7a *** 2
114 Stasis f7B+ **  
115 Tower Chimney VD * 84
116 Byne's Flake VD 7
117 Grandad's Slab E7 6c ***  
118 Braille Trail E7 6c *** 13
119 Dynamics of Change E9 7a **  
120 Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 3
121 Liam Kneescum f7B 1
122 Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
123 Parthian Shot E10 6c ***  
124 Parthian Shot (pre Nov 2013)
-
E9 6c *** 2
125 Brooks' Crack HVS 5a *** 222
126 Qui Gone Gym f6B+ 1
127 Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 5
128 Byne's Crack VS 4b *** 644
129 Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
130 The Kursk
-
V5 14
131 The Searing E3 6a * 2
132 Back Down Under E6 6c * 2
133 Ron, Ring Home! E5 6c *  
134 The Knock E4 6a *** 214
135 Wow! E4 6b  
136 Who's There? Titan's Grandma E3 6b 1
137 Keep Crack HVS 5a * 12
138 Keep Rib
-
V0+ 4
139 Lip Barmy f7B+ **  
  Dowel Crack
141 Bath House Pink E4 6c 7
142 Captain Sensible E1 5b * 41
143 Fast Ledge f6B * 12
144 Slow Ledge VS 4c 15
145 Magog HVS 5b 4
146 Gog HS 4c * 17
147 Gog Arête f4+ ** 63
148 Ladder Rib Wall f6C ** 1
149 Ladder Rib f6A+ ** 43
150 Ladder Rib Right-hand
-
f6A+ 48
151 Ladder Gully D 110
152 Connolly's Variation D 33
153 Recurring Nightmare E5 6b * 18
154 Macleod's Crack HVD 4a 111
155 Lapwing Variation S 4a 8
156 Crikey E5 6a * 4
157 Fade Away E1 6a 7
158 Dowel Crack HVS 5a * 51
159 The Iron Hand S 4b 92
160 Vulcan HVD 4a 60
161 Pollux HS 4c 12
162 Castor HS 4b 11
163 Movie Star E1 5b * 27
164 Surprise S 4a 32
165 Shooting Star HVS 5b 2
166 Pythagoras HS 4b 18
167 Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
168 The Big Dipper S 4a 23
169 High Arête f5+ * 3
170 Pigs Make Nests f7C ** 9
171 Pigs Make Nests Sit-start
-
f7C+ 2
172 Life of Pie f7C *  
173 Pockets 'n' Stuff f5+ * 2
174 More Cheese Gromit f7A ** 82
175 Rock Bottom f6B * 61
176 Definitive 5.11 f6C+ * 21
177 Definitive Burlesque f7B **  
178 The Grazer f6C+ ** 26
179 Sitting Duck f6B ** 164
180 Little Ear f3+ 3
181 Solstice f5 2
182 Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Ass f6B * 3
183 Index Arête S 3
  Nosferatu area
185 Sorb E2 5c ** 116
186 Nosferatu E6 6b *** 189
187 Reginald VS 4b * 111
188 Bad Attitude f6C ** 118
189 The Attitude Inspector f7A *** 268
190 Nathaniel HVS 5b * 32
Climb name Grade
191 The Neck f7B *  
192 The Knack E1 5c * 92
193 The Knack Sit-start f6B * 2
194 Old MacDonald f7A * 3
195 Nick Knack Paddywack E2 6b 10
196 Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit-start f7A * 15
197 Bright Eyes V7 *** 3
198 Less Bent S 4a 81
199 Less Bent Direct Finish
-
VS 4
200 Zig-zag VS 4c * 71
201 No Zag E1 5b * 218
202 Gib's Rib f7A *** 28
203 Unfinished Symphony HVS 5b * 21
204 Ribbed Corner D 108
205 Left Bannister HS 4a 80
206 The Staircase S 4a * 548
207 Confidence of Youth E3 6a 11
208 The Drainpipe HS 4b ** 405
209 Booby Prize E3 6b 1
210 Parson's Crack HS 4b * 61
211 Grease Lightning f7B+ **  
212 Electrical Storm f7B *** 131
213 Electrical Shower f6B+ 1
214 Walker's Pulpit HVD 4a 76
  Oak Grove Boulders
216 Scratcher Sitdown f6B * 18
217 Little Artless f7A+ * 5
218 Birch Tree Arête f6A+ ** 47
219 Right Wall
-
V0+ 8
220 Big Block Wall f6B * 20
221 Jason's Mantel f7A ** 11
222 Your Basic Mantel f6C * 60
223 Curving Crimps f6B * 69
224 Oak Tree Arête f6B * 60
225 Block Layback
-
V0 42
226 7 Ball f6C *** 239
227 Middle Wall f4+ ** 103
228 Corner Pocket f6B * 44
229 Corner Pocket Low Start
-
V5 15
230 Gentle Slab f3 59
231 Gentle Rib f4 * 113
232 Gentle Rib Sit-start
-
V1 64
233 The Reach
-
V5 9
234 Matterhorn Left f5 * 164
235 Matterhorn Left (No Arête)
-
V2 64
236 Central Groove Thing f5+ ** 187
237 Matterhorn Slab f3+ ** 77
238 Matterhorn Right f3+ * 182
239 Green Arête
-
V0 31
240 Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 5c 6
  Pebble Mill
242 Little Limmock f6B ** 23
243 Broddle's Baby f6C ** 8
244 Trapped in Crows' Craws f7A+ * 3
245 Trapped in Crows' Craws Right-hand f7A 1
246 Doddle M 5
247 Broddle VS 4c 146
248 Limmock HVS 5b * 130
249 Lino HVS 5a 20
250 Wenger Out f6C 2
251 The Birth of Liquid Desires HVS 5a 21
252 Wazzock S 4a * 179
253 Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
254 Pebble Mill E5 6b *** 140
255 Pebble Mill Traverse f7A+ ** 62
256 Pepper Mill f6C+ ** 27
257 Pebble Mill Stem f7A ***  
258 Pepper Linkup
-
V9 6c 1
259 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll E5 6b ** 11
260 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll Start f6B ** 12
261 Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
262 Micro Mill f4+ 13
263 Dork Child E1 5c * 34
264 Dork Child Start f5+ ** 12
265 Dork Walk f5+ 3
266 Dork Slab f5 7
267 Goblin
-
D 20
268 The Dork f5+ 4
269 The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 8
270 Voltaire Corner S 4
271 Cool Pete * V2  
  David and Goliath
273 Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier f7A *** 19
274 Above and Beyond... Direct f7A+ ***  
275 Samson f8A *** 3
276 Goliath E4 6a *** 118
277 Goliath Traverse
-
V4 3
278 David HVS 4c *** 298
279 David Traverse
-
f7A * 17
280 Sling Shot (Burbage South) HVS 5b * 24
281 Messiah E7 6c *** 10
282 Messiah Traverse f7A ** 20
283 Rollerwall f7C ** 15
284 Saul VS 5b * 137
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond