Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Approach notes

Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Earl Area 
2The Flat Cap
-
V7 * 
3The Whippet
-
V5 * 
4What a Way to Spend Easterf6C **19
5Dirty Rascalf7A *2
6Dizzie Rascalf5+ *7
7The Little RascalE4 6c *2
8Rascal Groovef7A **23
9Rascal Groove (top out)
-
E1 6b 2
10Rascal Groove sit start
-
V10 2
11Ronnie's Ribf7A * 
12Flake 'n' Blobf4 *27
13The Housebrick ChimneyV0 5
14The Housebrickf6A 17
15Standup Aretef6B **25
16Kodak Lightweight Service Sectorf6C *15
17Fuji Heavy IndustriesV7 *11
18Rail thingf5+ *39
19Pocket Wall Leftf7A *5
20Pocket Wallf6B **22
21Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)
-
V8  
22Pebble CrackHVS 5a *16
23Flat Wall Dynof6C *11
24Footy Ribf5+ 6
25Intensef8A **3
26Heavy Skyf8A+ ***1
27I'm Tensef7B *3
28Basketball Bulge
-
V3 9
29Black Arete
-
V3 11
30Left Aretef4+ *14
31A Moveable Feastf7B * 
32Snitchf6A+ *12
33Prow CrackS 4b *38
34The Ribf7B+ ***37
35Fat Man's MiseryS 3c *45
36Biscuits in my BeardHVS 5a 1
37Fat Man's Misery AreteV3 5
38Brap Scallionf6C **15
39Impossible Groove
-
? *** 
40Desparetef7B ***44
41No Name CrackVD 4a *94
42No Name WallV1 9
43Clark's Routef5 *17
44Sublime Indifferencef6A **6
45Big Bad WolfE5 6b * 
46Home Cookingf7A **4
47Thick end of the wedgef8A ***3
48Eating Outf6C **14
49Chockstone LaybackHVD 4a 56
50Green S-Groovef6A *6
51Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 3
52Left Edgef6A **26
53Triangle Wall sit start
-
V5 11
54Triangle Wallf7A ***53
55Tripletf6A+ *5
56Triangle Wall Layback
-
V4 23
57Triangle Ribf5+ 20
58Sweet Aretef6A+ *9
59Sweet Arete Chimney
-
VD 3
60Sweet Arete Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
61The Wrestlef6B 1
62Little Pig (Main Crag)S 4b 16
63The Alliancef7A ***97
64The Alliance Sit Start
-
f7B **5
65The Alliance Boulder
-
V4 1
66Friar's WallVS 4c 78
67DominicanHVD 4b 64
68Guppy Left
-
V1 36
69Guppy Aretef5+ *11
70Classic Arete Problemf6C **47
71Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 4
72SlantsideM 48
73Renobulous BongetlE5 6a 3
74Short CrackHVD 4a 43
75BreathlessHVS 5b 19
76Breathless Start
-
V2 4
77Lens CrackS 4a 57
78Lens Arete
-
V2 7
79Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 19
80Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
 Split Nose 
82Split Nose LeftVS 4c 2
83Split NoseHVS 5a *21
84The GnatE1 5c *5
85MidgeE2 6a *7
86KlegHVS 5b 4
87Every Man's MiseryVS 5a *69
88TriglyphVS 4c *64
89The Notorious BLGE7 6c *2
90Abu SimbelD 52
91Heidi BooE2 5c 3
92This LifeVD 9
93Bobby DazzlerE4 6a  
94The ConnectionHVD 4a 13
95The Thistle FunnelVD 4a 70
 Roof Route 
97Chimney RouteVD 31
98StampedeE8 6c * 
99Simbas PrideE8 6b ***35
100Black OutE9 6c *** 
101Roof RouteVS 4c **442
102Daz UltraE4 6a 7
103Gable RouteVS 4c **221
104Rombald's StaircaseM *86
105The GutterHVS 5b 17
106Press OnE2 6a 6
 The Boggart and Byne's Crack 
108Mad LlehctimE3 6b *27
109Lethargic AreteS 4a *78
110Charlie's CrackHVS 5b **136
111Life AssuranceE6 6b **136
112Tower ClimbHS 4c *101
113Tower CrackHVS 5a **93
114Balance It IsE7 6c ***54
115Boggart Left-handE4 6a *64
116BoggartE2 6b **80
117Ridikulusf6C 1
118Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
119EquilibriumE10 7a ***2
120Stasisf7B+ ** 
121Tower ChimneyVD *65
 The keep 
123Byne's FlakeVD 6
124Dynamics Of ChangeE9 7a ** 
125Braille TrailE7 6c ***36
126Grandad's SlabE7 6c *** 
127Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 2
128Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
129Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)
-
E9 6c ***17
130Parthian ShotE10 6c *** 
131Brooks' CrackHVS 5a ***216
132Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 5
133Byne's CrackVS 4b ***537
134Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
135The Kursk
-
V5 7
136The SearingE3 6a *2
137Back Down UnderE6 6c * 
138Ron, Ring Home!E5 6c * 
139The KnockE4 6a ***257
140Keep CrackHVS 5a *15
141Keep Rib
-
V0+ 4
142Who's There? Titan's GrandmaE3 6b 1
143Wow!E4 6b  
144Fallen Block Sloper
-
V8  
145Lip Barmyf7B+ ** 
 Dowel Crack 
147Captain SensibleE1 5b *37
148Bath House PinkE4 6c 2
149Fast Ledgef6B *2
150Slow LedgeVS 4c 13
151MagogHVS 5b 2
152GogHS 4c *14
153Gog Aretef4+ **50
154Ladder Ribf6A+ **28
155Ladder Rib Right
-
f6A+ 39
156Ladder GullyD 89
157Connolly's VariationD 29
158Recurring NightmareE5 6b *20
159Macleod's CrackHVD 4a 95
160Lapwing VariationS 4a 2
161CrikeyE5 6a *3
162Fade AwayE1 6a 7
163Dowel CrackHVS 5a *45
164The Iron HandS 4b 83
165VulcanHVD 4a 44
166PolluxHS 4c 10
167CastorHS 4b 9
168Movie StarE1 5b *21
169SurpriseS 4a 24
170PythagorasHS 4b 17
171Shooting StarHVS 5b 2
172Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
173Pigs make nestsf7C **3
174Pigs Make Nests Sit Startf7C+ 1
175High Aretef5+ * 
176Life of Pief7C * 
177Pockets 'n' Stufff5+ * 
178More Cheese Gromitf7A **5
179Rock Bottomf6B *37
180Definitive 5.11f6C+ *20
181The Grazerf6C+ **18
182Iain's roof (strict)f7A *20
183Sitting Duckf6B **117
184Little Earf3+ 2
185Solsticef5 2
186Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Assf6B *3
187Index ArĂȘteS 2
188The Big DipperS 4a 21
 Nosferatu area 
190SorbE2 5c **110
191NosferatuE6 6b ***238
192ReginaldVS 4b *85
193Bad Attitudef6C **94
194The Attitude Inspectorf7A ***198
195NathanielHVS 5b *28
196The Neckf7B * 
197The KnackE1 5c *86
198The Knack Sit-startf6B * 
199Old MacDonaldf7A *3
200Nick Knack PaddywackE2 6b 10
201Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Startf7A *8
202Bright EyesV7 ***2
203Less BentS 4a 77
204Less Bent (direct finish)
-
VS 3
205Zig-zagVS 4c *62
206No ZagE1 5b *185
207Gib's Ribf7A ***21
208Unfinished SymphonyHVS 5b *17
209Ribbed CornerD 100
210Left BannisterHS 4a 59
211The StaircaseS 4a *464
212Confidence of YouthE3 6a 14
213The DrainpipeHS 4b **330
214Booby PrizeE3 6b 1
215Parson's CrackHS 4b *50
216Electrical Stormf7B ***123
217Grease Lightningf7B+ ** 
218Walker's PulpitHVD 4a 67
 oak grove boulders 
220Scratcher Sitdownf6B *16
221Little Artlessf7A+ *5
222Birch Tree Aretef6A+ **31
223Right Wall
-
V0+ 8
224Big Block Wallf6B *16
225Jason's Mantelf7A **6
226Your Basic Mantelf6C *35
227Curving Crimpsf6B *44
228Oak Tree Aretef6B *40
229Block Layback
-
V0 37
2307 Ballf6C ***196
231Middle Wallf4+ **73
232Corner Pocketf6B *33
233Corner Pocket (low start)
-
V5 10
234Gentle Slabf3 37
235Gentle Ribf4 *84
236Gentle Rib sit start
-
V1 50
237The Reach
-
V5 9
238Matterhorn Left Aretef4 36
239Matterhorn Leftf5 *114
240Central Groove Thingf5+ **124
241Matterhorn Slabf3+ **17
242Right Matterhornf3+ *126
243Green Arete
-
V0 25
244Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 6
 Pebble Mill 
246Rockfax Fax09 P29V0- 5
247Little Limmockf6B **18
248Broddle's Babyf6C **5
249Trapped In Crows' Crawsf7A+ *3
250DoddleM 5
251BroddleVS 4c 133
252LimmockHVS 5b *128
253LinoHVS 5a 18
254Wenger Outf6C 1
255The Birth of Liquid DesiresHVS 5a 18
256WazzockS 4a *142
257Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
258Pebble MillE5 6b ***168
259Pepper Millf6C+ **21
260Pebble Mill Traversef7A+ **50
261Pebble Mill Stemf7A *** 
262Pepper Linkup
-
V9 1
263We Ain't Gonna Pay No TollE5 6b **9
264We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll startf6B **4
265Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
266Micro Millf4+ 12
267Dork ChildE1 5c *32
268Dork Child Startf5+ **10
269Dork Walkf5+ 3
270Dork Slabf5 6
271The Dorkf5+ 4
272Goblin
-
D 18
273The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 7
274Voltaire CornerS 4
 David and Goliath 
276Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrierf7A ***26
277Above and Beyond... Directf7A+ *** 
278Samsonf8A ***1
279GoliathE4 6a ***145
280Goliath Traverse
-
V4 2
281DavidHVS 4c ***270
282David Traverse
-
f7A *16
283Sling Shot (Burbage South)HVS 5b *27
284MessiahE7 6c ***3
285Messiah Traversef7A **12
286Rollerwallf7C **8
287SaulVS 5b *122
 Awaiting Moderation or Unknown Routes and Problems 
289Quarry GullyD 2
290The flake corner start
-
VD 2

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