Climbs 273
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Burbage South has never really been as popular as its northern twin. While its shady aspect and greenness don't help, its popularity has been limited by the uncompromising appearance of its buttresses, which lack the lower grade classics that pepper most of the other edges in the area. It is something of a surprising fact that Burbage South is home to several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest trad challenges anywhere. Don't be put off though, in amongst all the big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range as long as you choose a dry spell to visit. Summer shade is an added attraction on the hottest days of the year, as is evening sunshine on cooler summer evenings.

Approach notes

The best approach is from the Fox House end of the valley. There is parking on the grass verge on the roadside 200m uphill from the entrance to the pub car park. A stile allows you to cross the wall and leads straight across the moor (splodgy after rain) for 550m to reach the cliff-top path above the quarries. The rest of the crag is to the right (northeast) from here.

Green Drive - There is a very limited parking spot (about 5 cars) at the end of the main valley path. Walk up the Green Drive and head rightwards up the hill to reach the quarries.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Earl Area
2 The Flat Cap
-
V7 *  
3 The Whippet
-
V5 *  
4 What a Way to Spend Easter f6C ** 28
5 Dirty Rascal f7A * 2
6 Dizzie Rascal f5+ * 7
7 The Little Rascal E4 6c * 4
8 Rascal Groove f7A ** 28
9 Rascal Groove Sit-start
-
V10 2
10 Ronnie's Rib f7A *  
11 Flake 'n' Blob f4 * 27
12 The Housebrick Chimney V0 5
13 The Housebrick f6A 19
14 Kodak Lightweight Service Sector f6C * 18
15 Standup Arête f6B ** 37
16 Fuji Heavy Industries V7 * 17
17 Rail Thing f5+ * 48
18 Pocket Wall Left f7A * 7
19 Pocket Wall f6B ** 33
20 Pocket Wall Sit-start
-
V8  
21 Pebble Crack HVS 5a * 19
22 Flat Wall Dyno f6C * 13
23 Footy Rib f5+ 7
24 I'm Tense f7B * 3
25 Intense f8A ** 3
26 Heavy Sky f8A+ *** 1
27 Basketball Bulge
-
V3 10
28 Black Arête
-
V3 12
29 Left Arête f4+ * 17
30 A Moveable Feast f7B *  
31 Snitch f6A+ * 13
32 Prow Crack S 4b * 43
33 The Rib f7B+ *** 49
34 Fat Man's Misery S 3c * 56
35 Biscuits in my Beard HVS 5a  
36 Brap Scallion f6C ** 32
37 Impossible Groove
-
? ***  
38 Desparête f7B *** 45
39 No Name Crack VD 4a * 113
40 No Name Wall V1 10
41 Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 5b 4
42 Left Edge f6A ** 42
43 Triangle Wall f7A *** 77
44 Triplet f6A+ * 39
45 Triangle Rib f5+ 25
46 Clark's Route f5 * 18
47 Sublime Indifference f6A ** 7
48 Big Bad Wolf E5 6b * 1
49 Home Cooking f7A ** 7
50 Thick End of the Wedge f8A *** 7
51 Eating Out f6C ** 23
52 Chockstone Layback HVD 4a 64
53 Green S-Groove f6A * 8
54 Sweet Arête f6A+ * 11
55 Sweet Arête Chimney
-
VD 5
56 Sweet Arête Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
57 The Wrestle f6B 1
58 Little Pig S 4b 22
59 The Alliance f7A *** 95
60 The Alliance Sit-start
-
f7B+ ** 11
61 Friar's Wall VS 4c 90
62 Dominican HVD 4b 74
63 Guppy Left
-
V1 40
64 Guppy Arête f5+ * 16
65 Classic Arête f6C ** 65
66 Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 7
67 Slantside M 63
68 Short Crack HVD 4a 53
69 Renobulous Bongetl E5 6a 3
70 Breathless HVS 5b 20
71 Breathless Start
-
V2 4
72 Lens Crack S 4a 70
73 Lens Arête
-
V2 7
74 Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 20
75 Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
  Split Nose
77 Split Nose Left VS 4c 5
78 Split Nose HVS 5a * 25
79 The Gnat E1 5c * 6
80 Midge E2 6a * 10
81 Kleg HVS 5b 4
82 The Notorious BLG E7 6c * 3
83 Every Man's Misery VS 5a * 66
84 Triglyph VS 4c * 68
85 This Life VD 10
86 Heidi Boo E2 5c 3
87 Abu Simbel D 61
88 Bobby Dazzler E4 6a  
89 The Connection HVD 4a 15
90 The Thistle Funnel VD 4a 80
  Roof Route
92 Chimney Route VD 39
93 Stampede E8 6c *  
94 Simbas Pride E8 6b *** 17
Climb name Grade
95 Black Out E9 6c ***  
96 Roof Route VS 4c ** 501
97 Daz Ultra E4 6a 7
98 Gable Route VS 4c ** 247
99 Rombald's Staircase M * 113
100 The Gutter HVS 5b 17
101 Press On E2 6a 7
  The Boggart and Byne's Crack
103 Mad Llehctim E3 6b * 28
104 Lethargic Arête S 4a * 92
105 Charlie's Crack HVS 5b ** 149
106 Life Assurance E6 6b ** 98
107 Tower Climb HS 4c * 124
108 Tower Crack HVS 5a ** 121
109 Balance It Is E7 6c *** 18
110 Boggart Left-hand E4 6a * 68
111 Boggart E2 6b ** 82
112 Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
113 Equilibrium E10 7a *** 2
114 Stasis f7B+ **  
115 Tower Chimney VD * 84
116 Byne's Flake VD 7
117 Grandad's Slab E7 6c ***  
118 Braille Trail E7 6c *** 13
119 Dynamics of Change E9 7a **  
120 Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 3
121 Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
122 Parthian Shot (pre Nov 2013)
-
E9 6c *** 2
123 Parthian Shot E10 6c ***  
124 Brooks' Crack HVS 5a *** 222
125 Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 5
126 Byne's Crack VS 4b *** 637
127 Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
128 The Kursk
-
V5 14
129 The Searing E3 6a * 2
130 Back Down Under E6 6c * 1
131 Ron, Ring Home! E5 6c *  
132 The Knock E4 6a *** 208
133 Wow! E4 6b  
134 Who's There? Titan's Grandma E3 6b 1
135 Keep Crack HVS 5a * 12
136 Keep Rib
-
V0+ 4
137 Lip Barmy f7B+ **  
  Dowel Crack
139 Bath House Pink E4 6c 7
140 Captain Sensible E1 5b * 41
141 Fast Ledge f6B * 10
142 Slow Ledge VS 4c 15
143 Magog HVS 5b 3
144 Gog HS 4c * 17
145 Gog Arête f4+ ** 61
146 Ladder Rib Wall f6C ** 1
147 Ladder Rib f6A+ ** 42
148 Ladder Rib Right-hand
-
f6A+ 48
149 Ladder Gully D 110
150 Connolly's Variation D 33
151 Recurring Nightmare E5 6b * 17
152 Macleod's Crack HVD 4a 111
153 Lapwing Variation S 4a 8
154 Crikey E5 6a * 3
155 Fade Away E1 6a 7
156 Dowel Crack HVS 5a * 51
157 The Iron Hand S 4b 91
158 Vulcan HVD 4a 59
159 Pollux HS 4c 12
160 Castor HS 4b 10
161 Movie Star E1 5b * 26
162 Surprise S 4a 32
163 Shooting Star HVS 5b 2
164 Pythagoras HS 4b 18
165 Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
166 The Big Dipper S 4a 23
167 High Arête f5+ * 2
168 Pigs Make Nests f7C ** 8
169 Pigs Make Nests Sit-start
-
f7C+ 1
170 Life of Pie f7C *  
171 Pockets 'n' Stuff f5+ * 2
172 More Cheese Gromit f7A ** 72
173 Rock Bottom f6B * 56
174 Definitive 5.11 f6C+ * 19
175 Definitive Burlesque f7B **  
176 The Grazer f6C+ ** 24
177 Sitting Duck f6B ** 154
178 Little Ear f3+ 3
179 Solstice f5 2
180 Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Ass f6B * 3
181 Index Arête S 3
  Nosferatu area
183 Sorb E2 5c ** 111
184 Nosferatu E6 6b *** 183
185 Reginald VS 4b * 111
186 Bad Attitude f6C ** 112
187 The Attitude Inspector f7A *** 248
188 Nathaniel HVS 5b * 31
Climb name Grade
189 The Neck f7B *  
190 The Knack E1 5c * 91
191 The Knack Sit-start f6B * 2
192 Old MacDonald f7A * 3
193 Nick Knack Paddywack E2 6b 10
194 Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit-start f7A * 14
195 Bright Eyes V7 *** 3
196 Less Bent S 4a 81
197 Less Bent Direct Finish
-
VS 4
198 Zig-zag VS 4c * 71
199 No Zag E1 5b * 214
200 Gib's Rib f7A *** 26
201 Unfinished Symphony HVS 5b * 21
202 Ribbed Corner D 108
203 Left Bannister HS 4a 79
204 The Staircase S 4a * 546
205 Confidence of Youth E3 6a 11
206 The Drainpipe HS 4b ** 401
207 Booby Prize E3 6b 1
208 Parson's Crack HS 4b * 61
209 Grease Lightning f7B+ **  
210 Electrical Storm f7B *** 123
211 Electrical Shower f6B+ 1
212 Walker's Pulpit HVD 4a 76
  Oak Grove Boulders
214 Scratcher Sitdown f6B * 18
215 Little Artless f7A+ * 5
216 Birch Tree Arête f6A+ ** 45
217 Right Wall
-
V0+ 8
218 Big Block Wall f6B * 19
219 Jason's Mantel f7A ** 10
220 Your Basic Mantel f6C * 53
221 Curving Crimps f6B * 66
222 Oak Tree Arête f6B * 58
223 Block Layback
-
V0 42
224 7 Ball f6C *** 223
225 Middle Wall f4+ ** 99
226 Corner Pocket f6B * 43
227 Corner Pocket Low Start
-
V5 14
228 Gentle Slab f3 57
229 Gentle Rib f4 * 109
230 Gentle Rib Sit-start
-
V1 63
231 The Reach
-
V5 9
232 Matterhorn Left f5 * 158
233 Matterhorn Left (No Arête)
-
V2 60
234 Central Groove Thing f5+ ** 182
235 Matterhorn Slab f3+ ** 71
236 Matterhorn Right f3+ * 175
237 Green Arête
-
V0 30
238 Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 5c 6
  Pebble Mill
240 Little Limmock f6B ** 23
241 Broddle's Baby f6C ** 8
242 Trapped in Crows' Craws f7A+ * 3
243 Trapped in Crows' Craws Right-hand f7A 1
244 Doddle M 5
245 Broddle VS 4c 144
246 Limmock HVS 5b * 130
247 Lino HVS 5a 20
248 Wenger Out f6C 2
249 The Birth of Liquid Desires HVS 5a 21
250 Wazzock S 4a * 178
251 Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
252 Pebble Mill E5 6b *** 137
253 Pebble Mill Traverse f7A+ ** 60
254 Pepper Mill f6C+ ** 27
255 Pebble Mill Stem f7A ***  
256 Pepper Linkup
-
V9 6c 1
257 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll E5 6b ** 11
258 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll Start f6B ** 11
259 Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
260 Micro Mill f4+ 13
261 Dork Child E1 5c * 34
262 Dork Child Start f5+ ** 12
263 Dork Walk f5+ 3
264 Dork Slab f5 7
265 Goblin
-
D 20
266 The Dork f5+ 4
267 The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 8
268 Voltaire Corner S 4
269 Cool Pete * V2  
  David and Goliath
271 Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier f7A *** 17
272 Above and Beyond... Direct f7A+ ***  
273 Samson f8A *** 3
274 Goliath E4 6a *** 114
275 Goliath Traverse
-
V4 3
276 David HVS 4c *** 295
277 David Traverse
-
f7A * 17
278 Sling Shot (Burbage South) HVS 5b * 24
279 Messiah E7 6c *** 7
280 Messiah Traverse f7A ** 19
281 Rollerwall f7C ** 13
282 Saul VS 5b * 134
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond