Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Two imposing quarries and a natural edge, all good quality grit, if a little green following Winter. Best visited in the evening, but remember the midge spray on balmy nights! Lots of superb routes, though few easy (Byne's Crack and Fox House Flake (both VS 4b). Better, but harder are Millwheel Wall (E1 5b), Zeus (E2 5b), Silent Spring (E4 5c, 5c), Pebble Mill (E5 6b), Braille Trail (E7 6c), and of course the best route on grit (?) Parthian Shot (E9 7a). And don't forget Equilibrium (E10 7a) on the Yoghurt Arete - currently the state of the art.

Approach notes

Footpaths lead from below (NW of)The Fox House Inn (SK 267803) on the A625 Sheffield to Hathersage Road. Limited parking, but well-served by buses.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Earl Area
2 The Flat Cap
-
V7 6b *  
3 The Whippet
-
V5 6b *  
4 What a Way to Spend Easter f6C ** 24
5 Dirty Rascal f7A * 2
6 Dizzie Rascal f5+ * 7
7 The Little Rascal E4 6c * 3
8 Rascal Groove f7A ** 26
9 Rascal Groove (top out)
-
E1 6b 2
10 Rascal Groove sit start
-
V10 7a 2
11 Ronnie's Rib f7A *  
12 Flake 'n' Blob f4 * 27
13 The Housebrick Chimney V0 5
14 The Housebrick f6A 18
15 Standup Arete f6B ** 34
16 Kodak Lightweight Service Sector f6C * 17
17 Fuji Heavy Industries V7 6c * 15
18 Rail thing f5+ * 44
19 Pocket Wall Left f7A * 7
20 Pocket Wall f6B ** 30
21 Pocket Wall (right-hand sit start)
-
V8  
22 Pebble Crack HVS 5a * 19
23 Flat Wall Dyno f6C * 12
24 Footy Rib f5+ 6
25 Intense f8A ** 3
26 Heavy Sky f8A+ *** 1
27 I'm Tense f7B * 3
28 Basketball Bulge
-
V3 6a 10
29 Black Arete
-
V3 6a 12
30 Left Arete f4+ * 16
31 A Moveable Feast f7B *  
32 Snitch f6A+ * 13
33 Prow Crack S 4b * 42
34 The Rib f7B+ *** 45
35 Fat Man's Misery S 3c * 54
36 Biscuits in my Beard HVS 5a  
37 Fat Man's Misery Arete V3 6a 5
38 Brap Scallion f6C ** 21
39 Impossible Groove
-
? ***  
40 Desparete f7B *** 44
41 No Name Crack VD 4a * 111
42 No Name Wall V1 5c 10
43 Clark's Route f5 * 18
44 Sublime Indifference f6A ** 6
45 Big Bad Wolf E5 6b * 1
46 Home Cooking f7A ** 7
47 Thick end of the wedge f8A *** 6
48 Eating Out f6C ** 19
49 Chockstone Layback HVD 4a 61
50 Green S-Groove f6A * 8
51 Left Edge Dangerous Slab
-
V1 5b 3
52 Left Edge f6A ** 39
53 Triangle Wall sit start
-
V5 6b 14
54 Triangle Wall f7A *** 61
55 Triplet f6A+ * 13
56 Triangle Wall Layback
-
V4 6b 23
57 Triangle Rib f5+ 23
58 Sweet Arete f6A+ * 10
59 Sweet Arete Chimney
-
VD 5
60 Sweet Arete Offwidth
-
S 4b 1
61 The Wrestle f6B 1
62 Little Pig (Main Crag) S 4b 21
63 The Alliance f7A *** 88
64 The Alliance Sit Start
-
f7B ** 10
65 The Alliance Boulder
-
V4 6b 2
66 Friar's Wall VS 4c 88
67 Dominican HVD 4b 72
68 Guppy Left
-
V1 5c 40
69 Guppy Arete f5+ * 15
70 Classic Arete Problem f6C ** 61
71 Guppy Sitdown
-
V6 6b 7
72 Slantside M 57
73 Renobulous Bongetl E5 6a 3
74 Short Crack HVD 4a 51
75 Breathless HVS 5b 20
76 Breathless Start
-
V2 6a 4
77 Lens Crack S 4a 67
78 Lens Arete
-
V2 5c 7
79 Wagger's Wiggle
-
D 19
80 Flip, Flop, Fly
-
VS 5a 1
  Split Nose
82 Split Nose Left VS 4c 5
83 Split Nose HVS 5a * 25
84 The Gnat E1 5c * 6
85 Midge E2 6a * 10
86 Kleg HVS 5b 4
87 Every Man's Misery VS 5a * 63
88 Triglyph VS 4c * 66
89 The Notorious BLG E7 6c * 3
90 Abu Simbel D 59
91 Heidi Boo E2 5c 3
92 This Life VD 10
93 Bobby Dazzler E4 6a  
94 The Connection HVD 4a 14
95 The Thistle Funnel VD 4a 78
  Roof Route
97 Chimney Route VD 38
98 Stampede E8 6c *  
Climb name Grade
99 Simbas Pride E8 6b *** 16
100 Black Out E9 6c ***  
101 Roof Route VS 4c ** 479
102 Daz Ultra E4 6a 7
103 Gable Route VS 4c ** 237
104 Rombald's Staircase Inside Route D 2
105 Rombald's Staircase M * 102
106 The Gutter HVS 5b 17
107 Press On E2 6a 6
  The Boggart and Byne's Crack
109 Mad Llehctim E3 6b * 27
110 Lethargic Arete S 4a * 89
111 Charlie's Crack HVS 5b ** 144
112 Life Assurance E6 6b ** 93
113 Tower Climb HS 4c * 119
114 Tower Crack HVS 5a ** 114
115 Balance It Is E7 6c *** 18
116 Boggart Left-hand E4 6a * 63
117 Boggart E2 6b ** 75
118 Ridikulus f6C 6b 1
119 Yoghurt
-
E3 6b 4
120 Equilibrium E10 7a *** 2
121 Stasis f7B+ **  
122 Tower Chimney VD * 79
  The keep
124 Byne's Flake VD 7
125 Dynamics Of Change E9 7a **  
126 Braille Trail E7 6c *** 12
127 Grandad's Slab E7 6c ***  
128 Blinded by Science
-
E4 6a 2
129 Child's Play
-
E7 6c  
130 Parthian Shot (pre Nov 13)
-
E9 6c *** 2
131 Parthian Shot E10 6c ***  
132 Brooks' Crack HVS 5a *** 209
133 Combined Heroes
-
E2 5c 5
134 Byne's Crack VS 4b *** 594
135 Below Byne's Crack f6A * 1
136 Easy Traverse
-
HVS 5b 3
137 The Kursk
-
V5 5b 11
138 The Searing E3 6a * 2
139 Back Down Under E6 6c *  
140 Ron, Ring Home! E5 6c *  
141 The Knock E4 6a *** 202
142 Keep Crack HVS 5a * 12
143 Keep Rib
-
V0+ 5b 4
144 Who's There? Titan's Grandma E3 6b 1
145 Wow! E4 6b  
146 Fallen Block Sloper
-
V8 6c  
147 Lip Barmy f7B+ **  
  Dowel Crack
149 Captain Sensible E1 5b * 40
150 Bath House Pink E4 6c 5
151 Fast Ledge f6B * 5
152 Slow Ledge VS 4c 15
153 Magog HVS 5b 3
154 Gog HS 4c * 17
155 Gog Arete f4+ ** 57
156 Ladder Rib f6A+ ** 38
157 Ladder Rib Right
-
f6A+ 45
158 Ladder Gully D 101
159 Connolly's Variation D 33
160 Recurring Nightmare E5 6b * 16
161 Macleod's Crack HVD 4a 109
162 Lapwing Variation S 4a 4
163 Crikey E5 6a * 3
164 Fade Away E1 6a 7
165 Dowel Crack HVS 5a * 48
166 The Iron Hand S 4b 87
167 Vulcan HVD 4a 55
168 Pollux HS 4c 12
169 Castor HS 4b 10
170 Movie Star E1 5b * 25
171 Surprise S 4a 31
172 Pythagoras HS 4b 18
173 Shooting Star HVS 5b 2
174 Pie and Chips
-
E1 6a 1
175 Pigs make nests f7C ** 7
176 Pigs Make Nests Sit Start f7C+ 1
177 High Arete f5+ * 1
178 Life of Pie f7C *  
179 Pockets 'n' Stuff f5+ * 1
180 More Cheese Gromit f7A ** 34
181 Rock Bottom f6B * 49
182 Definitive 5.11 f6C+ * 16
183 Definitive Burlesque f7B **  
184 The Grazer f6C+ ** 24
185 Iain's roof (strict) f7A * 20
186 Sitting Duck f6B ** 141
187 Little Ear f3+ 2
188 Solstice f5 2
189 Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Ass f6B * 3
190 Index ArĂȘte S 3
191 The Big Dipper S 4a 23
  Nosferatu area
193 Sorb E2 5c ** 108
194 Nosferatu E6 6b *** 179
195 Reginald VS 4b * 108
196 Bad Attitude f6C ** 103
Climb name Grade
197 The Attitude Inspector f7A *** 230
198 Nathaniel HVS 5b * 31
199 The Neck f7B *  
200 The Knack E1 5c * 88
201 The Knack Sit-start f6B * 2
202 Old MacDonald f7A * 3
203 Nick Knack Paddywack E2 6b 10
204 Knick Knack Paddywhack Sit Start f7A * 10
205 Bright Eyes V7 6c *** 3
206 Less Bent S 4a 80
207 Less Bent (direct finish)
-
VS 4
208 Zig-zag VS 4c * 65
209 No Zag E1 5b * 205
210 Gib's Rib f7A *** 26
211 Unfinished Symphony HVS 5b * 21
212 Ribbed Corner D 104
213 Left Bannister HS 4a 71
214 The Staircase S 4a * 525
215 Confidence of Youth E3 6a 10
216 The Drainpipe HS 4b ** 386
217 Booby Prize E3 6b 1
218 Parson's Crack HS 4b * 58
219 Electrical Storm f7B *** 117
220 Grease Lightning f7B+ **  
221 Electrical Shower f6B+ 1
222 Walker's Pulpit HVD 4a 73
  oak grove boulders
224 Scratcher Sitdown f6B * 16
225 Little Artless f7A+ * 5
226 Birch Tree Arete f6A+ ** 38
227 Right Wall
-
V0+ 5b 8
228 Big Block Wall f6B * 18
229 Jason's Mantel f7A ** 9
230 Your Basic Mantel f6C * 43
231 Curving Crimps f6B * 59
232 Oak Tree Arete f6B * 53
233 Block Layback
-
V0 4c 42
234 7 Ball f6C *** 209
235 Middle Wall f4+ ** 93
236 Corner Pocket f6B * 38
237 Corner Pocket (low start)
-
V5 6b 12
238 Gentle Slab f3 50
239 Gentle Rib f4 * 103
240 Gentle Rib sit start
-
V1 5b 63
241 The Reach
-
V5 6b 9
242 Matterhorn Left Arete f4 54
243 Matterhorn Left f5 * 147
244 Central Groove Thing f5+ ** 166
245 Matterhorn Slab f3+ ** 55
246 Right Matterhorn f3+ * 160
247 Green Arete
-
V0 5a 27
248 Dark Hole Crack
-
V3 5c 6
  Pebble Mill
250 Rockfax Fax09 P29 V0- 4c 5
251 Little Limmock f6B ** 22
252 Broddle's Baby f6C ** 7
253 Trapped In Crows' Craws f7A+ * 3
254 Trapped in Crows' Craws Right-Hand f7A 1
255 Doddle M 5
256 Broddle VS 4c 140
257 Limmock HVS 5b * 127
258 Lino HVS 5a 18
259 Wenger Out f6C 2
260 The Birth of Liquid Desires HVS 5a 19
261 Wazzock S 4a * 169
262 Playing Dangerous
-
E7 7a  
263 Pebble Mill E5 6b *** 129
264 Pepper Mill (Start) f6C+ ** 27
265 Pebble Mill Traverse f7A+ ** 52
266 Pebble Mill Stem f7A ***  
267 Pepper Linkup
-
V9 6c 1
268 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll E5 6b ** 9
269 We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll start f6B ** 11
270 Midget Tart
-
E5 6b 1
271 Micro Mill f4+ 13
272 Dork Child E1 5c * 34
273 Dork Child Start f5+ ** 12
274 Dork Walk f5+ 3
275 Dork Slab f5 7
276 The Dork f5+ 4
277 Goblin
-
D 20
278 The Disappearing Bust of Voltaire
-
VS 5a 7
279 Voltaire Corner S 4
  David and Goliath
281 Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier f7A *** 15
282 Above and Beyond... Direct f7A+ ***  
283 Samson f8A *** 3
284 Goliath E4 6a *** 91
285 Goliath Traverse
-
V4 6a 3
286 David HVS 4c *** 274
287 David Traverse
-
f7A * 17
288 Sling Shot (Burbage South) HVS 5b * 22
289 Messiah E7 6c *** 7
290 Messiah Traverse f7A ** 15
291 Rollerwall f7C ** 12
292 Saul VS 5b * 130
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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