UKC

Climbs 37
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 817m a.s.l
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Climbing on slab lef of Fiddlers Slab, Binnein an Fhidhleir © andy hunter

Crag features

A pleasant group of small crags in a sunny location with excellent views over the Arrochar Alps. The rock is clean and sound but protection is scarce making for exciting climbing. The crag dries fast.

In winter there are a few very short gully and ridge climbs.

Creag Corrie an Creagach lies to the east of the 817m summit of Binnien an Fhidhleir. The crags of Creag Corrie an Creagach are scattered around the headwall of the corrie and above a wide terrace which extends northeast from the right hand side of the corrie. The dipped rock strata has created numerous slabby buttresses with climbing mostly in the middle grades but the frequent lack of protection calls for a confident approach.

The largest buttress is Central Wall which lies above the terrace. It has a prominent band of overhangs right of centre and a deep chimney right of these. To the right of Central Wall is the slabby Right Wall. The main section of slabs lie above a broad grassy ledge and are transected by a smaller ledge. A small buttress to the left of the foot of Central Wall is Habilis Buttress. The arete of Habilis starts at the bottom left of the buttress. Moving left we enter the corrie proper. A cluster of buttresses lie at the right of the corrie and left of Habilis Buttress with a prominent boulder scree running up the hillside. Below and right of this is Aquila Buttress which is triangular in shape with its apex lowermost. A wide broad crack left of centre runs through a roof . Above and right of the boulder slope is Skyline Buttress. This is split centrally by a vertical recess and its base runs uphill from bottom left to top right. Much further left at the head of the corrie is another cluster of buttresses, Summit Buttresses. A small slabby buttress with a white quartz spot in its centre is a useful landmark. Right of this is a scruffy buttress distinguished by a very large perched flake. Left of the flake a narrow slab stands proud of the buttress. This is Fiddlers Slab. Right again a broad grassy gully runs diagonally up to the right and right of this is a large buttress climbed by Jig and Reel.

Approach notes

A steep hike of 1 hour straight uphill from the carpark at Butterbridge on the A83.

A comment on the photo. In truth this is tilted, this part of the crag not nearly as steep as it might suggest.There are winter routes on the hill too, and you are pretty much guaranteed solitude.Nice views back towards Beinn and Lochain from the approach.
andrew ogilvie - 01/Aug/06
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