Climbs 309
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

"Pensioner's at play" he said © Josh Willett

Crag features

Birchen remains one of the most popular venues in the Peak due to its friendly atmosphere and good collection of low-grade routes. The place has always been a favourite with groups and this long-standing popularity has led to the wearing of many of the already rounded holds. Quite a number of the routes have slippery and awkward starts but get yourself going and things often ease rapidly with height. Summer weekends can be extremely busy, but if you leave the main section and head rightwards to the more secluded buttresses, you will probably find a bit of solitude. The majority of routes at Birchen have names of a nautical nature linked to the monument on the cliff top, erected to celebrate Nelson's victory at the Battle of Trafalgar back in 1805.

Approach notes

The usual approach is from the National Trust car park by the Robin Hood Inn. Walk up the road to a stile on the left and a sandy track that leads to the rocks in 10mins.

It is also possible to approach from the Gardom's parking spot.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Another heads up, uni taster sessions happening here 14th + 15th October.
edprince - 11/Oct/17
Just a heads up, my University society will be running our taster sessions here the weekend 1st + 2nd October. If there are any issues at all, feel free to get in touch at covunimountaineering@googlemail.com
edprince - 26/Sep/16
my favourite crag.
Stanners - 11/Sep/15
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the Ł4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. Ł2.50 up to 4 hours, Ł4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
Dale Berry - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's Ł2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Left
2 Portside HS 4b 17
3 The Briny E1 5b 5
4 Starboardside HS 4b 18
  Bosun's Wall
6 Bosun's Nose S 4c 173
7 Bosun's Crack VD 307
8 Bosun's Wall HVD 4a 247
  Poop Deck
10 The Gangplank M * 939
11 Poop Crack VD 4a 98
12 Handy Crack D 670
13 Handy Wall V0- * 46
14 Visitors Only HS 4a * 530
15 Visitors Wall V1 25
16 All Aboard D 508
17 Saltheart Foamfollower HVS 5c * 94
18 Howships Lacunae f6C * 20
19 PDCLW f5 * 3
20 Poop Deck Crack S 4a 375
21 The Pirate E2 6b 3
22 The Pirate Start f6B *  
23 Master and Commander V5 * 1
  Emma's Slab
25 Disabled Seaman f6A+ * 47
26 Cabin Boy f7A ** 86
27 Cabin Boy Variation f6C * 22
28 The Cabin f6A+ ** 85
29 Log f5+ * 48
30 Sling Your Hammock f5 ** 32
31 Dan's ArĂȘte f6C * 32
32 Crow's Feet f5+ * 15
33 Land Ho! HS 4c * 196
34 The Crow's Nest VS 4c ** 1033
35 Scrim Net f6A ** 155
36 Lookout ArĂȘte S 4a * 250
37 The Funnel D * 586
38 Kiss Me Hardy HVD 4a * 648
39 The Dancer E1 5c 16
40 Kiss Me Arse
-
f6A * 64
41 Kiss Me Arse (Sit-Start) f6C ** 63
42 Monocled Mono f6C * 27
43 Kiss Me Softy f6B ** 53
44 Victory Crack HS 4b * 781
45 Victory Gully S 4a * 336
46 Emma's Slab VS 4b * 626
47 Roger the Cabin Boy f6C ** 7
48 Technical Genius f7A ** 42
49 Technical Genius (Sit-Start)
-
f7A+ ** 8
50 Technical Genius ArĂȘte V4 * 19
51 Emma's Dilemma S 4a * 1488
52 Emma Royd VS 4c * 412
53 Emma's Temptation HVD 4c * 1303
54 Emma's Delight HS 4b * 842
55 Deluded VS 4c * 287
56 Emma's Delusion S 4a * 532
57 The Prow VS 4c * 807
58 Artificial VD 77
59 Oak Gully M 62
60 Oak Tower
-
VD 59
61 Heather Corner
-
D 40
62 Heather Corner Slab M 43
  Nelson's Slab
64 The Rigging
-
D 59
65 The Bunk Ladder S 4a 43
66 Captain's Prerogative HS 4b * 898
67 Captain's Bunk HS 4b * 821
68 Telescope Tunnel M ** 567
69 Captain's Crawl
-
M 161
70 Porthole Buttress S 4a * 348
71 Porthole Direct VS 4c ** 1293
72 Victor Hugo E4 6b * 1
73 Captain Birdseye VS 4c 176
74 Blind Eye S 4b * 267
75 The Proprioceptive Octet none 31
76 Admiral's Flushed Head D 13
77 Dead Eye HVS 6a 37
78 Iron Eye V7 3
79 Nelson's Slab Direct
-
V3 11
80 Nelson's Slab HS 5a * 751
81 Half Nelson VS 5a * 313
82 Left Ladder Chimney VD 205
83 Spliced S 4a 18
84 Right Ladder Chimney HVD 4a 153
  Sail Buttress
86 Midshipman / Plain Sailing E2 6a *** 103
87 Nor'-easter
-
HVS 5a 23
88 Cold Compass E2 6b * 1
89 The Kraken E6 6c *** 2
90 Sail Buttress HS 4b ** 2043
91 Roger the Cabin Boy VS 4c * 138
92 Ratline HVS 5b ** 599
93 Amazing Grace E2 6a 4
94 Sail Chimney S 4a ** 1184
95 Topsail VS 4c ** 2761
96 Marie's Gone to Canada E1 5c 3
97 Spinnaker VS 5a 26
98 Monument Chimney Crack VD * 487
99 Monument Chimney D * 723
  Orpheus Wall
101 Pillar Wall S 4a 175
102 The Bow S 4a * 286
103 Bugger V1 16
104 Orpheus Wall HVS 5c ** 592
105 Underworld V2 16
106 Peaches E4 6b *** 45
107 Peaches Start V3 6a 15
108 Cream V5 5
109 Pixie V1 5
110 Pixie (Sit-Start) V5 3
111 Orgasmic Variations in a Broom Cupboard
-
E1 5c  
112 Nelens
-
E1 5b 1
113 Monument Gully VD * 311
114 Book Sniffer E6 6b 1
115 Monument Gully Buttress HVS 5b * 374
116 The Keel HVS 5b * 154
117 Naughty Nauticals E2 6b 13
118 The Boom HVS 5a * 2
  The Three Ships
  Victory
121 Orion f5 178
122 Neptune f4 * 197
123 The Victory Traverse f3 * 129
124 Euryalus f4 * 252
125 V for Victory f3+ * 332
126 Prow Left f4 * 321
127 Prow Right f4+ * 308
128 Prow Right Dyno
-
V4 * 28
129 Victor's Ledge f4 * 201
  Defiance
131 Finisterre f4 * 267
132 The Defiance Traverse f5+ ** 97
133 St. Vincent f4+ * 272
134 Calvi f4+ * 228
135 Aboukir f4 * 256
136 Tenerife f4 * 316
137 Tenerife Right-Hand f4+ * 173
  Royal Soverin
139 Royal f3+ * 243
140 The Royal Soverin Traverse f5 * 71
141 Bilge f4 * 216
142 Buccaneer Left V0- 74
143 Buccaneer f4 * 155
144 Press Gang f5 * 102
145 Orlop f5 * 167
146 Mini Roof V2 * 31
  The Promenade
148 Cutting Corners S 4a 18
149 The Promenade D ** 1273
150 The Promenade Direct HVD 4a * 877
151 PromarĂȘte f6A ** 49
152 The Chain S 4a * 811
153 Megamix Left f7A+ *  
154 Gritstone Megamix f7A *** 35
155 HMS Daring f7B+ *** 3
156 Splendide Audax
-
V8+  
157 Thing on a Spring f7A ** 96
158 Hollybush Gully VD 4b * 382
159 Anchor Traverse HS 4b * 224
160 Floating Anarchy HVS 5a 55
161 Powder Monkey Parade S 4b ** 1765
162 Oarsman ArĂȘte f6B+ * 9
163 Oarsman f6B+ ** 21
164 Oarsman Sit-Start
-
V6 ** 1
165 'Oar 'Ouse f7A * 6
166 Hornblower f6C *** 107
167 Obstructive Pensioner f7A+ ** 6
168 Pensioner Right-Hand
-
V7 *  
169 Jumpers for Trousers f7C+ ** 7
170 Eliminate Flake f4+ * 7
171 Hangover HVS 5b 84
172 Admiral's Progress D * 524
173 Polaris Exit D * 254
174 The Admiral's Head
-
D 3b 18
  Trafalgar Wall
176 Bulbous Bow f5+ * 185
177 Hammock VS 5b * 204
178 Camperdown Crawl HS 4c ** 1983
179 Camperdown Crawl Right-Hand Variant VS 5c 50
180 Barnacle Bulge HS 4c * 1056
181 Trafalgar Crack VD 4a * 2618
182 Trafalgar Wall S 4b ** 2430
183 The Defiance Variation
-
V0 5b 13
184 Defiance Crack
-
VD 4a 26
185 The Long Promenade VS 4b ** 61
  Stoker's Wall
187 Bell Bottom ArĂȘte S 4a 299
188 Sailor's Crack S 4b * 296
189 Sailor's Problem VD 702
190 Whatknot? S 4b * 367
191 Reef Knot S 4b * 722
192 Sheetbend S 4b 338
193 Nautical Crack VD * 1094
194 Heave Ho S 4a 355
195 Yo-Ho Crack VD * 1575
196 Rum Wall VD 803
197 Rum Break VD 125
198 Stoker's Break VD 895
199 Stoker's Hole HS 4a * 1040
200 Stoked S 4a * 1160
201 Stoker's Wall D * 1112
202 Stoker's Wall Traverse
-
VD 3c 41
203 Stoker's Wall Crack
-
M 2c 46
204 Stoker's Wall Flake V0- 35
205 Chasing the Dragon V9 7a  
  Copenhagen Wall
207 Scandiwall S 4b 46
208 Copenhagen Corner Left-Hand Variant VD 31
209 Copenhagen Corner S 4b 449
210 Copenhagen Wall Traverse
-
S 4a 31
211 ScandiarĂȘte VS 5c * 387
212 Dane's Delight HS 5b * 661
213 Dane's Disgust HS 5b * 393
214 Carlsberg Export f6B 20
215 Mermaid f7C * 3
216 Copenhagen Wall VS 5a * 510
217 MP3 f7B ** 70
218 Wonderful Copenhagen VS 5a * 348
219 Mast Gully Ridge VD * 516
220 Mast Gully M 265
  The Fo'c'sle
222 Mast Gully Wall VD 4b 162
223 Mast Gully Crack HS 4b * 239
224 Mast Gully Buttress VS 5a * 228
225 Fo'c'sle Wall VS 4c * 411
226 Fo'c'sle Crack S 4b * 764
227 Fo'c'sle Chimney VD * 286
228 Fo'c'sle ArĂȘte VS 5b * 91
229 Fo'c'sle ArĂȘte Direct Start V1 4
230 Broadside f6A+ * 29
231 Lowside V5 * 6
232 The Brigand f7C+ ** 3
233 The Buccaneer f7A * 3
234 Cave Gully VD * 103
  Tar's Wall
236 Ta Very Much HS 4c 119
237 Tar's ArĂȘte VD 4a * 435
238 Ta Ta For Now HS 5a 302
239 Tar's Crack VD * 535
240 Tar's Teeter VS 4c * 14
241 Tar's Wall HVD 4b 686
242 Sodomy f6C ** 36
243 Tar's Traverse D 362
244 Tar's Climb M 227
245 Tar's Gully D 412
246 Pig Head S 4c 291
247 Pig Head Start f4+ * 7
248 Pigtail S 4a 337
249 Pigtail Start f4 ** 7
250 Wavedance f4+ * 133
251 Prow Wall M 266
252 Prow Wall Start f2+ * 6
253 Prow Gully M 43
254 Prow Gully Prow
-
HD 3a 27
  Barbette Buttress
256 Barbette ArĂȘte S 4b 37
257 Barbette Crack HS 4b * 255
258 Barbette Wall S 4a 169
259 Barbette Buttress S 4b * 432
260 Cannonball Crack S 3c 111
261 Cannonball Wall Direct Start
-
VS 5a 74
262 Cannonball Wall VD * 454
263 Gunner's Gangway D 326
264 Lieutenant's Ladder D 193
  Seasick Slab
266 Midge's Manoeuvre E2 6a 12
267 Middy's Manoeuvre HS 4c * 158
268 Midway E1 6b 40
269 Torpedo Tube HVD 4a * 258
270 Flataback E1 6a 19
271 Das Boot VS 5a 28
272 Gunner's Groove D 300
273 Seasick ArĂȘte Left-Hand Variation
-
V0 * 19
274 Seasick ArĂȘte f5 ** 466
275 Seasick Slab f3+ * 640
276 Seasick Steve f6A+ * 18
277 Sick as a Parrot
-
HD 4a 31
278 Men United f5 * 32
279 Isle of Men f5+ * 21
  Wooden Leg Wall
281 Three Sheets to the Wind
-
HVD 4b 18
282 Cabin Fever HVD 4a 94
283 Wooden Leg Wall - Left Corner D 3b 24
284 Spotted Dick
-
V3 3
285 Moby Dick S 4a 183
286 Old Codger VS 4c * 89
287 Bold Codger E2 6a 5
288 Wooden Leg Wall HVS 5c * 67
289 Owd Gadgee E2 6a 4
290 Young Gadfly
-
HS 4b 17
291 Wooden Leg Wall - Right Corner
-
HD 3c 25
292 Stoker's Crack S 4b 104
293 Stoker's Saunter VD 126
294 Knick Knack E1 5b 44
295 Easy Corner M 48
296 Matelot's Meander S 4a 147
  Kismet Buttress
298 Yard Arm
-
V0- 35
299 Implosion HVS 5c 43
300 Explosion VS 5a * 199
301 Blast Hole Wall VS 5b * 139
302 Cor Limey! VD 28
303 Powder Keg S 4a 48
304 Refuse
-
V3 5
305 Fuse VS 5a * 263
306 Gun-Cotton Groove VD * 490
307 Cook's Rib E1 5c * 158
308 Horatio's Direct VS 4c * 174
309 Horatio's Horror HS 4a ** 545
310 Heavy Cruiser E1 6a  
311 Nelson's Nemesis VS 4b *** 858
312 Tom's ArĂȘte E5 6b 1
313 Victory Vice VD * 153
314 For Queen and Country HVS 4c 52
315 Device HVS 4c 164
316 Gunpowder Gully ArĂȘte S 3c 165
317 Gunpowder Gully D 123
318 Sea Dog Slab VD 154
319 Sea Dog Slab Direct
-
V0- 4b 10
320 Sea Dog Slab Indirect
-
V0- 5a 7
321 Sailor's chute HVD 4a 71
322 They Think It's All Over
-
VS 4b 6
323 It Is Now
-
VD 3c 15
324 It Is Now Direct VD 4b 11
325 Nelson's Slab Direct Sit-start Plinth Eliminate * f7A 2
326 Colder Compass * V5  
327 Scuttlebutt * V6  
328 Traverse into Hornblower * V6 1
329 Anchor Management *
-
VE ** 1
330 Soverin Full Traverse * V4 6a ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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