Rockfax Description
230m. This long and quite sustained route provides excellent climbing. Start just left of the slabby toe of the buttress.
1. 40m 4c Pad up the widening slab (ignoring the heathery crack of Pagoda Ridge) to an overlap. Traverse left to a bulb-shaped protuberance. Cross the overlap, then go up to the next overlap. Move down and right to belay at an old peg. A fairly bold pitch.
2. 30m 4c Climb the slab above, then move right to a flake on the edge of the next overlap. Cross this, then continue to another awkward overlap. Surmount it and climb a slab to a ledge with a flake belay above.
3. 25m 4b Climb a bulging wall to the right of the belay, then ascend a slab and some heather to a hollow flake belay below an overlap.
4. 20m 4b Cross the overlap just left of the belay, then move left to a hidden thread runner. Follow a line of pockets rightwards over an edge to belay in a small recess on the right. An excellent pitch.
5. 40m 4b Climb the recess, ascend a short slab, then traverse right to a crack in the overlap. Climb the crack and the slabs above (next to a turfy crack) to a belay.
6 ,7. 75m Traverse left over slabs, then follow the line of least resistance up the edge overlooking the gully (as for Pagoda Ridge) in two long pitches.
FA I.Fulton, J.M.Shaw, 20 Jul 1968 © Rockfax

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