Restricted Access
WARNING- (see comments) The semi-detached boss at the left of the crag is moving away and will eventually fall apart. Please DO NOT climb or hang on it - if you pull it off, it could kill you.
No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.
Starting from right hand pinch 1ft above the boss and horizontal crimp on the left, cross through to chalked bulge immediately right of the pinch. Continue to the crimp at the top of the long lay back side pull and cross through to an intermediate hold then uncross right again to the crux hold of the lock reloaded. From here jump to the final hold of the lock reloaded.
Ronan Blackwood 26/Nov/2021.
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