Rockfax Description
II, 1150m, 1 day. Almost as historic as its neighbour.
Approach - From the Col des Grands Montets (the top of the cable car) descend the Glacier des Rognons east to reach the Glacier d'Argentière. The best route for this will depend on the state of the glacier but generally it involves heading towards the Moraine des Rognons and passing just south of Pte. 2754m. Once on the glacier, turn southeast and make directly for the Refuge d'Argentière. Follow the vague path from the Refuge d'Argentière leading to the toe of the Glacier du Milieu.
1) Follow the right bank of the glacier to reach the steep summit slopes.
2) Climb these (sustained at 45 degrees) via a narrowing at half-height to reach the northwest ridge.
3) Follow the ridge easily to the summit.
Descent - Either of the Whymper of the Milieu routes can be descended, just check with the hut guardian which one they recommend. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the Milieu Glacier from the Argentiere hut, the last slope is 45 degrees for a few hundred metres


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression


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Votes cast 12
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Traversée des Crochues

Grade: PD+ 4a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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