UKC

250m, 9 pitches. In the Argentiere granite guide book. It’s a prominent buttress to the left of the minaret and finishes on jardin. 9 pitches including sustained 30m 6a crack for 2nd pitch which seemed very stiff and several hard 5c pitches. Guardian at refuge recommended route but warned that it has one piton on entire route. At top traverse rubble slope away from minaret for 50m to mushroom shaped rock and cairn. Descend easy chimney for 8m to do 3-4 well equipped abseils. Then traverse for an unspecified amount and you may find another abseil to the start of the rabaouin gully descent. Took us 14 hrs hut to hut.

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Route of Interest
Central Diédre

Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)

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