UKC

350m. 15min approach from the Argentière refuge. Head for the “rabbit ears” rock formation. Grade II for ~100m then 3c, 4c corner, 4c chimney, 4b arete with 3 pegs, several short steps of III to the summit. Easy descent from summit then down snow gully (45deg) leads to path back to hut.

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User Date Notes
EdJHarley 8 Jul, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Scramble up to the rabbit ears to start. Take a set of nuts and cams. There’s a few bolted belays but mostly trad. 3-4 hours on route. Descent onto Glacier des Améthystes via the relatively steep snow gully and follow edge around. You don’t actually need to go onto the glacier. The Les Chevaux is absolutely fantastic, if a bit scary (but well protected with pegs on right hand side).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Scramble up to the rabbit ears to start. Take a set of nuts and cams. There’s a few bolted belays but mostly trad. 3-4 hours on route. Descent onto Glacier des Améthystes via the relatively steep snow gully and follow edge around. You don’t actually need to go onto the glacier. The Les Chevaux is absolutely fantastic, if a bit scary (but well protected with pegs on right hand side).

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Voting
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
East Ridge

Grade: AD ***
(Aiguille du Bionnassay)

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