Rockfax Description
III, 1350m, 1 day. A historic route up the Glacier du Chardonnet.
Approach - From the Col des Grands Montets (the top of the cable car) descend the Glacier des Rognons east to reach the Glacier d'Argentière. The best route for this will depend on the state of the glacier but generally it involves heading towards the Moraine des Rognons and passing just south of Pte. 2754m. Once on the glacier, turn southeast and make directly for the Refuge d'Argentière. Follow the vague path from the Refuge d'Argentière leading to the toe of the Glacier du Milieu.
1) Climb snow slopes, or moraine and scree depending on conditions, to reach the glacier itself.
2) Follow the glacier to reach a 100m long couloir coming down from the northwest ridge.
3) Climb this (low-angled mixed ground) to reach the ridge itself.
4) Follow the ridge easily on snow and over the odd short rock step to reach the summit.
Descent - Either of the Whymper of the Milieu routes can be descended, just check with the hut guardian which one they recommend. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The original route up the peak. PD+/AD-.


Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression


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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Trois Monts Route

Grade: PD+ ***
(Mont Blanc)

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