UKC

165m.

Rockfax Description
II, 365m. This excellent extension to the routes on the Red Pillar sees relatively little traffic, simply because so few climbers are aware of it. The route is described from the top of Nabot-Léon.
1) 5c. Follow Nabot-Léon to its finish.
2) 4c. Move right onto the ridge.
3) 5c. Follow the ridge passing some bolts. This can be done in one long pitch or two.
4) 4b. Clinb the small summit above the belay and then make a 10m abseil off the back to ledges.
5) 5c. Move right and climb the cracked slab and step right at the top to belay.
2) 5b. Head up the corner directly above then step left and climb the slabby, right-leaning corner-crack.
3) 5c. A fantastic corner pitch to a small ledge.
4) 6a. Climb blocky ground straight above the belay and then a slab just to the left of the ridge crest.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This excellent extension to the routes on the Red Pillar sees relatively little traffic, simply because so few climbers are aware of it. To reach the route, make a 10m abseil down the north side of the Red Pillar summit to reach a little notch and the first belay.

Ticklists

Alpine Dreamz , Chamonix Summer 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
martin.p65 17 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 5 topo completely wrong. After abseiling the red pillar (or scrambling down and around it), belay inside/behind a massive flake and pillar below the crack (seen easily from the pillar or belay beforehand). NOT the slab at all. Pitch 6. TRAVERSE left a few metres to reach a few cool flake features and into a rampy corner. Bolted belay out left before the corner on the green-y lichen wall (technically visible from the belay before but v camouflaged!) Pitch 7. Climb up the corner...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 5 topo completely wrong. After abseiling the red pillar (or scrambling down and around it), belay inside/behind a massive flake and pillar below the crack (seen easily from the pillar or belay beforehand). NOT the slab at all. Pitch 6. TRAVERSE left a few metres to reach a few cool flake features and into a rampy corner. Bolted belay out left before the corner on the green-y lichen wall (technically visible from the belay before but v camouflaged!) Pitch 7. Climb up the corner...
Gwinn512 25 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Do yourself a favor and split the last pitch in 2, by the abseil rings. Will save you massive rope drag on the run out slab.
Show beta
βeta: Do yourself a favor and split the last pitch in 2, by the abseil rings. Will save you massive rope drag on the run out slab.
iainJ 1 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description is a bit off, topo line is deffo wrong for p1. After the abseil, go up slightly and anchor off the rope through the rock hole. Step right for about four metres along the flake, before heading straight up the spliiter crack - not across the slab and up the corner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description is a bit off, topo line is deffo wrong for p1. After the abseil, go up slightly and anchor off the rope through the rock hole. Step right for about four metres along the flake, before heading straight up the spliiter crack - not across the slab and up the corner.

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Voting
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 2
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bonatti Pillar

Grade: TD ***
(Les Dru)

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