Rockfax Description
II, 365m. This excellent extension to the routes on the Red Pillar sees relatively little traffic, simply because so few climbers are aware of it. The route is described from the top of Nabot-Léon.
1) 5c. Follow Nabot-Léon to its finish.
2) 4c. Move right onto the ridge.
3) 5c. Follow the ridge passing some bolts. This can be done in one long pitch or two.
4) 4b. Clinb the small summit above the belay and then make a 10m abseil off the back to ledges.
5) 5c. Move right and climb the cracked slab and step right at the top to belay.
2) 5b. Head up the corner directly above then step left and climb the slabby, right-leaning corner-crack.
3) 5c. A fantastic corner pitch to a small ledge.
4) 6a. Climb blocky ground straight above the belay and then a slab just to the left of the ridge crest.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This excellent extension to the routes on the Red Pillar sees relatively little traffic, simply because so few climbers are aware of it. To reach the route, make a 10m abseil down the north side of the Red Pillar summit to reach a little notch and the first belay.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gwinn512 | 25 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Do yourself a favor and split the last pitch in 2, by the abseil rings. Will save you massive rope drag on the run out slab. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Do yourself a favor and split the last pitch in 2, by the abseil rings. Will save you massive rope drag on the run out slab. |
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iainJ | 1 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description is a bit off, topo line is deffo wrong for p1. After the abseil, go up slightly and anchor off the rope through the rock hole. Step right for about four metres along the flake, before heading straight up the spliiter crack - not across the slab and up the corner. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description is a bit off, topo line is deffo wrong for p1. After the abseil, go up slightly and anchor off the rope through the rock hole. Step right for about four metres along the flake, before heading straight up the spliiter crack - not across the slab and up the corner. |
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Grade: TD ***
(Mont Maudit)