UKC

Traverse of NNE ridge of l'M, easily accessible from Montenvers station. Can be used as an approach to Refuge du Plan d'Aiguille.
3-4 quickdraws, 2 medium cams. Difficulties up to 3c.

Ticklists

Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed. , Alpine Peaks and routes

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User Date Notes
FredThomson 6 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Could find abseil point (like previous post). Awful descent down gully and wasn’t the first judging by some gear left to create ab point towards the bottom of the gully. Judging by the look of some of the stone I suspect the main abseil ring on the route has sheered off. Worth noting that on a busy day in August we were the only ones on the route. Suspect it’s a known issue.
βeta?
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βeta: Could find abseil point (like previous post). Awful descent down gully and wasn’t the first judging by some gear left to create ab point towards the bottom of the gully. Judging by the look of some of the stone I suspect the main abseil ring on the route has sheered off. Worth noting that on a busy day in August we were the only ones on the route. Suspect it’s a known issue.
EdJHarley 24 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Never found the proper descent to ended up sliding down some chossy gully, glissading down 300m of snow and running 5k to reach the last lift. We never felt more alive.
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βeta: Never found the proper descent to ended up sliding down some chossy gully, glissading down 300m of snow and running 5k to reach the last lift. We never felt more alive.
Webster 6 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: the first two crux towers (which each have a bolt for protection) can be easily bypassed on the right if ability/conditions dictate.
βeta?
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βeta: the first two crux towers (which each have a bolt for protection) can be easily bypassed on the right if ability/conditions dictate.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Aiguille de l'M

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Voting
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Goûter Route

Grade: PD ***
(Mont Blanc)

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