Rockfax Description
III, 375m. A stunning route with difficult crack and slab pitches. It is famous for its combination of a splitter hand-crack on P7 followed by a class finger-crack on P8. Definitely one of the more beautiful granite routes of the massif!

1) 6a. Climb the crack right of the corner. It's possible to see the next belay from the start.
2) 6a+. Climb up and left to the ledge system.
3) 2c. Cross the ledge to a belay below the wall.
4) 6b. Climb up to a bolt and then move right across the slab to a flake crack. Follow this to the belay.
5) 6c. Follow the wide crack that turns into a roof. Undercut out left and then pull round to a belay above.
6) 6c+. Climb the corner, then move left across slabby ground to the arĂȘte. Pass this and follow the corner to a belay on a ledge.
7) 6c+. Climb the fine hand-crack above the belay passing the odd bolt. An amazing pitch!
8) 6c+. Climb up and right to gain the soaring finger-crack. Follow this to a tricky move left near an overlap.
9) 6c+. Climb a slabby, flared finger-crack above, moving out right near an arĂȘte.
10) 6c+. Climb the corner crack past some bolts until it's possible to move out right, in an outrageous position, to a horizontal break, follow this then up and right (bolt) to a belay.
11) 6a+ (8a). Either climb the bolted slab above at 8a or, as most do, pull on the bolts. Gain the right-hand crack and follow this easily up the right-hand side of the pinnacle to the top. © Rockfax


Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Parois-de-legende , Euro Alpine Rock


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High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Route of Interest
Directe des Capucins

Grade: ED1 6c+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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