III, 400m, 4 -5 hours. A good line which is slightly let down by the fact that the technicalities are only brief. In good conditions the whole route will be névé, or even ice, but when conditions are snowy, the upper snow slopes will be tough to protect. Climb 80m of snow to belay beneath the gully.
1) Climb two 80-85 degree mixed pitches through the lower rock band. There are rock belays but the climbing will be quite technical in anything other than fat conditions.
2) 100m of 60 degree snow/ice leads to easier-angled snow slopes above.
3) Follow the snow slope to join the top of the Migot Spur and continue up this to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
New alpine grade: III AI4+. Obvious line going straight up the north face of the Chardonnet.
Jean Aureille & Y Feutren Jul/1942.
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