IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours. Another classic and an ideal first North Face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without any particularly difficult climbing.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (may be dry in late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest of the north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line further right to get through the rock band, although there is no guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start!
2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to stay safe from potential serac fall.
3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac. The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just to the left to reach the upper snowfield.
4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The RockFax description for the descent is a little misleading. From the summit descend onto the ridge and follow it around a leftward turn. From here it is 20m to a sudden steepening in the ridge and the couloir described above. Many people have taken epic-inducing lines down couloirs reached sooner than this one from turning too soon.
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Dreamz , Alpine Progression , Road to the Walker Spur , A mix of routes to the summits of great Peaks in the Alps via standard'ish routes
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