Rockfax Description
I, 100m, 1 - 2 hours. An excellent, short climb which lacks technical difficulties but not exposure.
Approach - Descend the Aiguille du Midi via the famous snow ridge before swinging around west and passing under the Midi South Face, Arête des Cosmiques and Refuge des Cosmiques to reach the foot of the route.
1) The ridge can be joined almost anywhere within 100m of the Col du Midi, but the most enjoyable scrambling is found by starting in a small snow bay just to the left of where the rock solidifies considerably.
2) Climb leftwards up a ramp before turning right and following the ridge on its crest, turning difficulties on the left.
3) 4b. Halfway to the refuge there is an awkward slab which can either downclimbed (4b) or abseiled (5m). From the foot of the slab, return to the ridge crest and continue along the ridge in a stunning position to reach the terrace at the back of the Refuge des Cosmiques.
Descent - Return to the Aiguille du Midi. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not sure of grade-possibly AD-. The alternative route if weather is too bad to do Cosmiques Ridge. Starts from Col du Midi (3532m). As you walk away from aiguille du midi turn right to approach the ridge running south west of cosmiques hut (3817m). Mixed scramble and easy climbing but very exposed climbing across l'arete a laurence. Whole route very exposed with a particularly scary traverse near the end probably best done with some protection. A ladder at the end of the route takes you in to the back entrance of the cosmiques hut.

UPDATE: Large loose block (small lorry size) that is waiting to go down the north face near the hut end, the route traverses over the block. Would easily cut rope/slings if used for protection. Could be avoided by a very dangerous scree traverse below the block.


Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Intro to Alpine , Alpine Progression


User Date Notes
Tomasz Smith 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Approach to Cosmiques refuge
Show beta
βeta: Approach to Cosmiques refuge
arvinw 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fun ridge - perfect for acclimatization as not fitness heavy
Show beta
βeta: Fun ridge - perfect for acclimatization as not fitness heavy

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High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Goûter Route

Grade: PD ***
(Mont Blanc)

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