II, 185m. A brand new route only recently put up by the prolific Piola. It follows a series of crack systems to the right of Voie Kohlmann with a particularly splitter pitch 5 that is a joy to jam!1) 6a+. From the starting ledge of the Rébuffat-Baquet, climb the bolted arête to the right for two bolts before moving right along a vague ledge system that leads to a corner and cracks. Follow this until you join and cross Voie Kohlmann to a ledge just above its first belay.2) 5c. Follow the spur above the belay passing a bolt near an overlap to a belay on a ledge.3) 5b. Move out left into the gully and follow flakes and cracks easily to a large ledge. Move left along this to a belay.4) 6a. Climb a wide crack off the ledge and then follow bolts and grooves to a belay.5) 6a. Follow the brilliant curving splitter hand crack to a belay at the top of the wall.6) 5b. Climb easy ground, first left then back right, into a chimney to join the Rébuffat-Baquet at its last belay.7) 5c/A0 or 6b+, 25m. Follow pitch 10 of the Rébuffat-Baquet to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route is next to the Voie Kohlmann. Mixture of crack and face climbing. The route was put up in 2015 by Piola
Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.
Nick and Tom's awesome Ticklist
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Grade: TD 6a ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)
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