II, 185m. A brand new route only recently put up by the prolific Piola. It follows a series of crack systems to the right of Voie Kohlmann with a particularly splitter pitch 5 that is a joy to jam!
1) 6a+. From the starting ledge of the Rébuffat-Baquet, climb the bolted arête to the right for two bolts before moving right along a vague ledge system that leads to a corner and cracks. Follow this until you join and cross Voie Kohlmann to a ledge just above its first belay.
2) 5c. Follow the spur above the belay passing a bolt near an overlap to a belay on a ledge.
3) 5b. Move out left into the gully and follow flakes and cracks easily to a large ledge. Move left along this to a belay.
4) 6a. Climb a wide crack off the ledge and then follow bolts and grooves to a belay.
5) 6a. Follow the brilliant curving splitter hand crack to a belay at the top of the wall.
6) 5b. Climb easy ground, first left then back right, into a chimney to join the Rébuffat-Baquet at its last belay.
7) 5c/A0 or 6b+, 25m. Follow pitch 10 of the Rébuffat-Baquet to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route is next to the Voie Kohlmann. Mixture of crack and face climbing. The route was put up in 2015 by Piola
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