III, 1100m, 4 - 5 hours. An excellent introduction to the world of alpine north faces, the Mallory-Porter is essentially a long snow climb, but a serious one. Protection is not easy to find so, despite the relatively amenable climbing, don't underestimate this one. The good news is that it is about as simple and logistically easy a north face as you will find, with a short approach and a lift descent. The route is dependent on having snow, which it usually does until early summer. It is best done after a good freeze in spring. Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow a path up the moraine to the left of the toe of the Glacier des Pélerins. Cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the foot of the route, passing underneath the Frendo Spur. There is some serac danger towards the end of the approach, so don't pause for a break until at the very start of the route.1) Follow a 45 degree snow gully, which is hidden during the approach, and then continue rightwards up the 50 degree ramp into the middle of the buttress. 2) Climb the left-leaning open slabby corner for 25m to an exit onto a short snowfield (Scottish III ). 3) Head up the snowfield to its top right corner and then continue up steep snow, hugging the rock buttress on the right, which gradually pushes you diagonally left to the top of the central snowfield. 4) From here, go straight up a short, exposed step and then climb the 55 degree gully which leads to the 'Demi-lune', the col where the Mallory-Porter joins the Eugster Direct. 5) Climb the upper snowfield before making a long traverse leftwards to reach the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge. Pay attention to crevasses on the traverse which can be quite open, even in spring.Descent - Take the lift down! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Takes a winding route up the north face of the Midi, finally ascending under the line of the lift for the last 300m. First skied in 1977.
George Leigh Mallory and H. E. L. Porter 05/Aug/1919.
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