Rockfax Description
III, 700m, 4 - 5 hours. A legendary route up the mountaineers' mountain - this is as good a snow climb as you will find anywhere. It is also possible to climb the main couloir in good conditions. Judging the best line to take is part of the seriousness of this route.
Approach - Approach by crossing the Glacier de Talèfre. Follow a vague cairned path northeast from the Refuge du Couvercle to the foot of the Aiguille du Moine's southeast ridge and go from here onto the glacier and head directly for the route. The glacier can be heavily crevassed so good route finding skills are required.1) Cross the bergschrund, which is usually easiest on the right, and climb a secondary snow gully to the right of the main couloir to reach a rock spur.
2) Climb this (Scottish II) and move left onto 50 degree snow/mixed ground, still to the right of the main couloir.
3) Head up the snow/mixed ground to where it begins to steepen considerably. At this point a snow ramp leads left into the main couloir.
4) Climb the remainder of the main couloir, which steepens to 55 degrees near the top, to emerge just below the Col de la Grande Rocheuse (4051m).
5) Follow the stunning snow ridge to the summit of the Verte. In good conditions this is a wonderful part of the climb, but in bad conditions it will feel scary and exposed.
Descent - Either downclimb the Moine Ridge or abseil the Whymper using fixed anchors on the left side (when facing down) of the couloir. Descending the Whymper is only really feasible in spring or early summer - the rockfall danger is too high in the height of summer. If descending the Moine Ridge follow the ascent route, mainly by downclimbing. Generally a few 25m abseils are required (including two on the ridge crest around section 4 of our description) but the length of the terrain means that downclimbing is the only way of descending quickly. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
It is on the Verte that you become a mountaineer. The Whymper Couloir is a fine snow route, direct and elegant. The central part of the couloir is in fact steep and formidable, the upper part being perhaps wider but its average angle (47° between 3700 and 3950m) is 55° from 3950 to 4051m at the Col de Rocheuse. Gaston Rebuffat

E. Whymper with Ch. Almer and F. Biner 29/Jun/1865

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017.

David Horwood 14/Apr/17 -
Michael 02/Aug/16 -
Pero 04/Jul/16 Lead
monsteratt ?/Jul/15 -

Soft snow, raining when we left the hut at midnight. Some minor sloughing in the gully. Moved together. Little bit off route in the dark. Wading through soft snow for ~19 hours fun times!

with Rich B
Hidden ??/2015 -
Roberttaylor 24/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Got half way up, turned round due to scrap snow and deteriorating weather.

JackM92 16/Aug/14 -

Solid neve was tough on the calves. Physically hard, technically easy.

NickNixon 15/Aug/14 -
Hidden 08/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
David Staples ?/Aug/14 2nd dnf

Turned back due to bad snow. Other climbers followed after so felt we made a good decision.

KatOstrich 26/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Got lost, too far right, ended up with hard mixed climbing up to the Grande Rocheuse, 23 hours including ~18 abseils

with Ollie
Clevelandclimber 20/Mar/14 AltLd

Moved together, lovely summit ridge.

with Malcolm Bass
Paul Figg 17/Mar/14 -

Climbed moving together with lawrence and Andy, topped out to see the sun rise. Abseil descent.

with Andy Brown, Lawrence Monckton
Hidden ??/2014 -
jcw ??/2014 -
James_L88 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Keith Lambley 06/Jul/13 -
with Kate R
Ben Briggs 26/Feb/13 -

Ski descent after climbing up the courturier from first lift. No rappels.

with Tom
jcw ??/2013 -
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
ollyroberts 19/Nov/12 Lead

Moved together.

piersnewton 19/Nov/12 2nd O/S
maxf ?/May/11 -
John Carney ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Clara Kulich
stuart34 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

In descent

with Kim Ladiges
Hidden 02/Aug/10 -
Hidden 02/Aug/10 -
hamish2016 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S

In descent.

with chris burn
chopin-smith 05/Nov/09 -
IanJackson 23/Jul/08 Solo
decs 22/Jul/08 Solo

Down climb. Less effort than climbing up.

Hidden 04/Jul/04 Solo
fellgazelle 04/Jul/04 -

In descent after climbing Couturier Couloir.

with Chris Dale
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/99 -

Absail descent after Grand Montetes ridge to summit.

with Jon Scorer
innes ?/Mar/99 -

Descent route.

with Mark Harris
Hidden 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/88 -
Hidden ?/Aug/88 -
oldmanofmow ?/Jul/62 AltLd

Alt leads with John Robertson no probs descended by Moine ridge sort of.

53 users have this on their wishlist
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
High 1
Mid 1
Low 1
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set