I, 150m, 2 hours. The route can be started from anywhere around the bottom of the ridge. It is possible to avoid the difficulties at the start by staying right of the rock and following the snow slope. It is also possible to escape the route just about anywhere along its length by joining the snow slope and climbing this instead.1) Climb a series of slabby corners just right of the toe of the buttress and emerge onto the ridge crest after 40m at a notch.2) Scramble up for 15m just to the left of the ridge crest before following a ledge system out onto the South Face.3) Follow the South Face for 30m, passing plenty of spikes and flakes, which provide good protection. A good landmark to keep an eye out for is a huge, detached flake/block, which is half way along this traverse. Climb a right-sloping ramp back towards the ridge crest and step down at the top of it onto a flat ledge below a curving rock with a wide crack on its left.3a) It is also possible to continue traversing across the South Face and climb a small but steep corner which leads directly to the ridge crest).4) Climb the wide crack via a couple of thuggish moves to regain the crest.5) Follow the ridge crest, or just right of it, to a 15m high vertical wall with twin cracks.6) 4c. Climb the twin cracks to a small ledge.7) Traverse right across ledges to rejoin the ridge crest. Follow this in a fantastic position over the final hump on the ridge. After this there is a handrail and a path (in place from winter when the ski patrol use the ridge to access certain parts of the mountain) leading to the viewing platform at the lift station. Finishing the route will almost certainly involve having your photo taken by some admiring tourists, so make sure you look suitably heroic. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follow rocky ridge/snow slope up to the cable car station
Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming
Cham Sep 24
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Grade: PD+ ***
(Domes des Miages)
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