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Rockfax Description
II, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. This delightful traverse can be done in both directions. It is easier from north to south but not as good.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, descend slightly to the Col du Géant and gently climb to the foot of the ridge.
1) Approach the south end of the ridge and join it by climbing low-angled mixed ground just to the right of the most northerly summit.
2) 5a. Having joined the ridge follow it briefly to a small (5m) wall, which is climbed with difficulty (5a) to a peg belay. Easier looking ground lies to the left of this wall, but the rock is poor and not recommended.
3) Follow the ridge crest in a spectacular position, paying attention to some loose blocks. The ridge drops away briefly and there is a 20m abseil from a block (abseil cord usually in place).
4) From here the next small summit is climbed via a short, blocky chimney on the left. Continue for 10m along the ridge crest to a 10m abseil down a slab on the west side of the ridge. It is possible to join the ridge here in order to avoid the 5a wall.
5) 4a. Follow the ridge crest easily, and turn the first small tower on the left. The second tower is climbed initially on the left for 5m, and then a slab/corner on the crest (4a). This tower can be avoided by going right, but this relies on snow cover.
6) 4b. The final ridge is straightforward and extremely aesthetic. The east ridge branches off 20m before the summit, but it is well worth tagging the top before descending this, although the final move is worth 4b. The summit is spectacular, and there is usually abseil tat to allow the final moves to be descended safely.
Descent - Retrace the final 20m of the ascent route, and turn left down the east ridge. Follow this on the crest (easier with more snow) in an exposed position down towards the Col de Rochefort. There is a short rocky step near the end of the ridge which may often require a 7m abseil. From the Col de Rochefort, walk back to the Rifugio Torino or Helbronner lift (45 minutes). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ascend south ridge, descend east ridge.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mark Brand 23 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbing S to N, then you can also climb the gully marked in the rockfax topo as an alternate start - there's a bolted belay at the bottom of it, and following the obvious line of weakness to the right felt about HVS/5a to me, and leads a solid belay on the ridge. Would strongly recommend against the original start without a lot more snow it's certainly not "easy mixed" terrain at the moment, it looked more like a fragile slope of dry, desperate choss.
 
Show beta
βeta: Climbing S to N, then you can also climb the gully marked in the rockfax topo as an alternate start - there's a bolted belay at the bottom of it, and following the obvious line of weakness to the right felt about HVS/5a to me, and leads a solid belay on the ridge. Would strongly recommend against the original start without a lot more snow it's certainly not "easy mixed" terrain at the moment, it looked more like a fragile slope of dry, desperate choss.
GOS 20 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Most do it north to south. If south to north the ascent gully is loose low down and is safer with a good snow cover. At the second gendarme don't go from high ledge up to that.. instead down climb the corner. Else you have to abseil off far side into a loose (if dry) gully
 
Show beta
βeta: Most do it north to south. If south to north the ascent gully is loose low down and is safer with a good snow cover. At the second gendarme don't go from high ledge up to that.. instead down climb the corner. Else you have to abseil off far side into a loose (if dry) gully

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High D-
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High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
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High PD+
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Votes cast 12
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
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Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
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Route of Interest

South Ridge

Grade: AD+ ***
(Pointe Louise)